What Rifle To Buy

Im not trying to hate but why go for a long range set up for 500 yards? You should be able to do that with anything better than a bottom barrel AR if you put the time in.
Ive always thought of long range as 800m+

Tikka T3x Tac A1.
Accept no substitute.

If you are only gonna shoot 500 yards, get a .223 version. It's cheaper to shoot and it and it lets you learn to calculate drop and windage better sure to having a lower BC. When you get good with that get a .308 ( 6.5 burns out barrels faster) and maybe a .300WM later for 1200+ yards

No one shots past 500 meters and finding 6.5 mememore will be impossible in SHTF.

25lbs recoil energy? No. Not really.

>Tikka
Proprietary mags.

I bought a Bergara B14 BMP recently. Have yet to test it, gotta find a scope first.
Looks pretty good though, and has got a lot of good reviews.
I'm sure the RPR is a solid choice as well.

The Ruger Persocsion is a 10lbs + rifle. Who wants to carry that hunk of iron in the field.

>Who wants to
Pay two grand. So sick of this shit. It is easier to manufacturer now than ever and we are paying more. Fucking oil dollar bullshit.

No. It's something you buy after you know what you're doing and with the purpose of hunting not practice or fun. It's expensive to shoot, most guns available in it are not tuned for high BC ammunition, there's very few high BC factory loads (handloading is a must for peak performance anyways), and the recoil can take the fun out of shooting without a good muzzle brake.
It depends on how small of a target you're going for and if youre going for first shot hits. You can make it very difficult

The B14 BMP is still heavier
That being said, that kind of gun isn't intented to be carried in the field, those are not hunting weapons. Those are range shooting guns, the only carry you'll have to do is from your car to the shooting lane and back.

500m is warm up shots for those who shoot LR. I would prefer to engage targets from 500-800m it's easier than 1000+ but not as stressful as CQC.

What about the tikka t3x or the howa 1500 then? Not op but looking to do the same thing in .308.

Yeah but these 'precision rifles' are too fucken heavy to carry around in SHTF.
If you really must have a mememoore to shoot the zombies at 800 meters then pls recommend something practical like the Kimber montana or ultralight. Something you can sling on your back and move around with.

>howa 1500
Jow Forums has a hard on for these things, they reckon its good affordable shooting and way better than the 700s since remmington went to shit.

6.5 creedmoor. You will be very happy with the RPR, provided that you get a gen 2 with the mlok rails. If you see an RPR with keymod rails for over $1000, chuckle and move on.

Don't listen to the morons who say "its just a Ruger American" or "so-and-so-meme-scout-rifle is Just As Good once you spend an extra $1000 on upgrades". Get the RPR, be happy.

The RPR's only downside is that it's heavy, but that's almost a Ruger trademark at this point. Get stronk.

Fuck off faggot go listen to Aqua.

I would be interested in a version than can lose 3lbs. One that's made for hunting not bench rest shooting.
I can can't buy a rife when I could buy one that weights almost HALF as much and can be used in the field.

The RPR is heavy, but it's not too heavy to use in the field. A Gewehr 43 weighed almost as much, and plenty of people carried those without too much complaining.

Most of the weight is in the rear, because it's a heavy duty action. That's not so bad for balance.

You can buy a Tikka, sure, but now you have a less quality platform that needs tons of upgrades to make it field-worthy, and you wil be spending three times as much per magazine for shit that you can't buy on store shelves.

I'm a big guy (for you), the RPR with a nice two point padded sling like a BFT or MS1 is fine for me, can lug this thing through the woods all day.

I can grab a Vortex Viper PST gen2 3-15, would that suffice for a SPR/DMR build?

The first focal plane gen 2 version of that scope is what I have on my RPR. It's great. Some people will say you need higher magnification like 18x or 25x once you get out past 800m, I have not really found that to be the case. 15 times larger means that at 1000 meters, something looks like its less than a football field away.

Will it be that much less gun compared to a tikka? Ive never had a boltgun so i dont really know what to look at.

Awesome thanks for the input.
I'm at work so I can't really look all this shit up, but is the W/E adjustment in MOA or MRAD? I know I can choose between the two reticle options but idk if the turrets change with the reticle (as in MOA reticle with MOA adjustment vs MOA reticle with MRAD adjustment). Might be a stupid question but I'm relatively new to scopes

Clicks are in .1 mils for the MRAD scope, 1/4 MOA for the MOA scope. I would get the milliradian version if at all possible. Metric math is much easier to calculate in your head.

Awesome, I was planing on getting the mrad version anyway, thanks a lot for the help!

HTH

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Rigidity from a heavy barrel and rigidity from an aluminum stock are what you're trading weight for. It makes for a more accurate rifle. Know what you want and value, weight is a concern depending on your priorities, there's a balance point. The bergara is closer between a light hunting rifle and aluminum bench rifle

Two quick questions, should I get a quick detach scope mount or not for an SPR build? And should I get a set of ring mounts or one of those with a "base" (not exactly sure what they are called). I figure the base ones are more accurate out of the box, but the rings are cheaper. Any advice is welcome!

S will never HTF and if you're looking at an RPR you're a hobbyist (which is great). You'll never snipe someone. Lighten up.

QD scope mount would be appropriate for an DMR, but not an SPR. The extra accuracy high quality rings give you are worth it at long range, and you're not going to be swapping scopes or shooting iron sights on it anyway.

Sound advice, would you then recommend the separate rings or the full mount assembly where both rings are attached to a plate which then attaches to the rail? Cheers!

One piece. You want a scope mount that's fully machined out of a single billet of aluminum by a reputable manufacturer. Spend a lot on your scope mount. There's no sense in spending $1000 on a scope that holds zero like the tits then shoving it into some lame rings.

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I am a hobbyist. But my interest in the hobby extends to theoretical applications.

The RPR is shit in SHTF because its too heavy, has a shit barrel life, and mememore will be harder to find in Australia then .357sig.

You can't tell me what to think about so get fucked. Lots of people enjoy SHTF theorising and prepping.

Calm down user. Get a mag fed 308 with good irons or an lpvo and call it a day then. It doesn't need to be as accurate as an aluminum chassis gun but does need to be weildy.
Id argue an rpr could be used defensively in shtf world and possibly to remove specific people from far away

>Get a mag fed 308
Waiting to see if the speedline or something similar comes out in .308. (30-06 is somewhat uncommon here).

My main paranoia / concern is that the Jews are behind this 'lever release' technology in an effort to ban ALL lever guns.

>has a shit barrel life

Compared to what? 6.5CM isn't the kindest even at factory pressures and no precision rifle barrel is getting into the tens of thousands of rounds.

1500-2000 rounds in mememore compared to 7-8,000 in .308?
For non richfags it's not even a choice.

Great thank you, I can't really spend too much on it. Would something around 150usd suffice or is that shit tier?

Congrats, now you can miss your distance targets due to shitty terminal ballistics for MONTHS STRAIGHT.

Also, 1500 rounds is low. 4000 rounds, yeah maybe.

$150 for a non-QD scope mount is plenty. That gets you well into Vortex/Leupold territory.

If i was just starting, I wouldnt go the 308/6.5 route (which is what i initially did). I'd get a fast twist 223, learn to reload, have fun out to about 700, and when i decided i wanted to go further, get a 6.5. Cost to reload 223 is cheaper than match 22, has legs on targets out past 500 (unless you live in buttfuck no where, most ranges wont be that far), has amazing barrel life, and did i mention it is cheap?

If you decide to pursue the hobby further, you already know how to reload, you're good with wind, and you want to go further- so get a 6.5 creedmore. when people run after you with barrel life, consider that the cost of a barrel swap will be absorbed by the 2k-4k rounds of cheaper to load ammunition.

I have one in 300wm. Smooth action and a nice crisp trigger. I'd definitely recommend one, even in the smaller cartridges.

Vortex Optics Viper HS-T 6-24x50 with the RPR and you can into quality long range shooting without making your bank account cry.

And go 6.5 Creedmoor if your goal is to shoot past 500.
>Muh barrel life!
>Meme round!
>B-but SHTF!
>.308 is dur best, son!
Poorfags, faggots, preppers and fudds need not apply

only issue with the 6-24 is that the holdovers are true at a middle value in magnification, so practicing that way is no beuno

Military tests confirm it is greatly more accurate.

christensenarms.com/modern-precision-rifle/

Just got showcased this at the gunshop where I work part time. Will likely order one myself. In 6.5 obvi
It's ludicrously light. Probably 6-7 lbs in the hand.

>.300WM later for 1200+ yards
TFW When you skipped both 300 min mag and 308 and are shooting 6.5 Creedmoor to 1400 yards effectively.

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Precision isnt always long range bro.

Op, if youre only going out to 500 yards, I would grab a nice rifle in .223, theres a ton of great rifles and factory loads, and when (if) you start reloading you can load yourself up some 80gr begers and be done with it. I have a 6.5, but I do a lot of 1k fclass, my 600 yard gun is a .223. Drop an swfa ontop of any number of rifles and call it a day.

I shoot a savage f/tr in .223 and love it.

>4000 rounds,
as an RPR owner for two years I am about 3700 rounds and I am about to replace with a Proof customer barrel after another 500. I am starting to see a little spread from my earlier days shooting the same load. I shoot ALOT though.

RPR gen 2 6.5
PST 6x24 FFP EBR 2C MRAD optic.

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>Proof customer barrel
fucking auto correct
Proof Research Custom Carbon Fiber barrel. 24 inch.

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This 100%.

If you're shooting at targets under 600yds most of the time, do .223 and reload for it. When you're going to farther distances and need better ballistics, do a Tikka 6.5CM CTR. I would do the .223 in a Tikka Lite or Varmint, personally (get the fast twist rates).

All this talk about SHTF or '308 for muh better practice' stuff is just fucking stupid.

How many shooters do you know that burn 4-5k rounds ever, let alone through a bolt rifle?

Buying a variety of .308 ammo to try to get a solid bagged and benched minimum group measurement on my AR10.
Faxon .308 barrel, 1:10 twist 16"
Here are the boxes of ammo I'm considering so far:

308 Win 155 Grain HPBT Match Ammo by Prvi Partizan

308 Win 147 grain FMJ Ammo by Sellier Bellot

308 Win 168 grain BTHP Prvi Partizan Match Ammo PPM3082

308 Win Speer Gold Dot LE 168 grain Gold Dot Soft Point GDSP Ammo

308 Federal Gold Medal Match ammo 175 grain BTHP

Of the following which should I get?
Any other recommendations?

7.62x51 Nato 147 grain FMJ PMC X-TAC Ammo

308 Win 168 grain SMK Match Ammo made by PMC

308 Win 168 Grain Matchking BTHP Remington Premier Match

308 Win 168 Grain A-Max Hornady Black Ammunition

Thanks guys!

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Savage model 10, 6.5 creed.
SWFA scope, either 10 or 20x fixed.

R8 & h8.

>mememore
>richfags
Oh so you're just butthurt. I have both .308 and 6.5, and prefer 6.5 for reasons that don't include cost. Refinements are refinements, and I'd call a G1 BC increase of .1 on average a good fucking refinement.

Get a remington 700 action and go from there. You can build a fairly decent rifle for under $2000 if you shop around. My entry level build was a trued action and rem/age barrel from NSS chambered in .260. It was getting sub half MOA groups with Prime ammo, and even better with hand loads, both at 100 yards. The nice thing about the rem/age barrels is they are essentially plug and play, and I think it is a great place to start for a beginner. If you take the time to build it yourself you can save a lot of money, it just takes a little time, but you learn quite a bit. If you don't want to build it yourself you are going to spend quite a bit in gunsmithing services. I think with the barrel, action, stock, and optic I was just under $2000.00. After I built it I started to save more $ and invested in bedding, barrel threading for a brake, getting a better trigger etc...

>NSS trued 700 action (SA, with bolt & trigger)
>Criterion Rem/Age barrel (varmint contour)
>KRG x-ray (I got mine used)
>Leupold Mk4 4.5-14x50 (also used)
>badger base and 30mm rings

>Savage model 10
Which one

FCP-SR, personally.

To elaborate why I said model 10 originally: it's a good basic rifle that can be upgraded with relative ease compared to the Axis, and it can be had used for under 450.

Love my 12lrp with a bobsled instead of magazines. The mags were scratching brass leaving brass dust.

Try some federal match with berger 185 juggernauts

burrisoptics.com/reticles/f-class-moa

Anyone own one of these and want to chime in?

Are there aftermarket stocks for the RPR? I love the aesthetics of it except the stock.

That was my problem with it too so i went for the savage lrp. Glad i did, i love that gun.

Loads do mate.

Lol I do 5k in a bad year of just 357s.

>What are buttstock pads
>What are muzzle brakes
>What are sand bags.

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Any ultralight rifle for long range is a pain to actually shoot.

>A Gewehr 43 weighed almost as much, and plenty of people carried those without too much complaining.

But they lost, didn't they? How heavy were the mosin nagants, the SKSes, the M1 carbines and the Garands?

The 147-155 might not group how you want.

Who the fuck cares? I have 20 pound bench queens and 7 pound ARs stop being poor #1 and #2 op didnt mention weight requirements for shtf.

If you want a cool hunting rifle, get the Steyr scout and be done with it.

I love scout rifles.

Any ammo worth shooting out of a prediction rifle is not going to have a price difference. Match grade ammo can be found for as low as $.50/rnd, which is what you're going to find good 308 ammo for as well. Sure, you can get cheap surplus or steel cases 308, but if you shoot cheap 5 moa garbage through a precision rifle you're a dumbass.

You're a retard with money, congratulations. Stick with 168s and above. Get some FGMM, Prime, or Black Hills.

Right on. I'll stick to the heavier stuff. I thought maybe the lighter stuff might spin up faster since the barrel is only 16"

>168 and above
Even with the 16" barrel? I know that 1:10 likes heavier ammo, but I thought maybe the 16" barrel might somehow prefer a hair lighter. That is why I threw the 155 Priv Match, the 147 XTac, and the 147 S&B

If you don't think I'll actually be getting good groups from those boxes I'll cut them out, and put the money into other boxes.

I'm really trying to just net the widest variety of possibly good grouping ammo, so that I can get a really good lower bound on just how accurate the gun is. Going to sled it at an indoor 100 yard range.

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Stick with 168s and above.

I have an RPR in .308 with Athlon Ares BTR scope. With good rings the setup was just about $2k. Furthest I have been able to shoot it so far was 600yds, and we were nailing the gong every shot. The scope is very good, not on the level of the high tier brands but still high quality.

I would also recommend the SWFA optics, I have the SWFA SS 3-15x42 on my 5.56 SPR and it's solid.

Don't worry about 6.5CM, for what you want to do the .308 is fine and cheaper. Anyway, if you do really get into long range shooting you'll certainly want to get an even better rifle, maybe in 6.5CM. The RPR is relatively easy to re-barrell as well

Do you have a 1:10 16" .308?

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No, I have a 1:10 24" .308. Barrel length has an impact on velocity only and not stability. For the third time:

Stick with 168s or above.

You should learn how to shoot first. You may think you know how to shoot after blasting at dirt with your booger with your retarded friends, but if you don't know your shooting fundamentals, then you will do nothing but waste money on blasting factory ammo out of your parts gun.

See, this is what i meant hereYou know all about gear, but you're clueless about shooting distance. Quit being autistic about what works on paper. You're already at a disadvantage by trying to shoot at distance with a parts bin AR-10. Do your homework on how to shoot at distance, rather than splitting hairs over what ammo to shoot. I mean fuck, you're unironically using a 3-9 accupoint on a QD base as your primary optic. You have a spring loaded QD suppressor because why? Do you know what barrel harmonics are? Man, /arg/ has twisted you.

You two sound like salty poorfags.

>sks
>ww2

>SHTF
No one with a brain cares

Doesn't a slower twist rate take longer to stabilize the bullet, so benefit from a longer barrel over which to impart the rotation? Similarly a shorter barrel with a given twist might benefit from a slightly lighter bullet that "twists up" faster?

>Muh shooting fundamentals
I was making hits on steel at 600m standing. Fundamentals are there.

>Splitting hairs over what ammo to shoot
As I explained I'm just trying to get a lower bound on how accurate the gun is. The best way to do that to me seems to be to shoot some groups with a wide variety of ammo and find what shoots the tightest, then try to get a super tight group with that one.
>Barrel harmonics
>3-9 Trijicon
This isn't actually a precision gun, but rather a DMR. I thought I'd ask in here for ammo recommendations though for obvious reasons. You done be mad at me yet?

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How could I get mad at your autistic wall posts? Can you please go back to your containment thread and argue with trAsh about who has the bigger poverty stick?

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Check out the "The Social Regressive" YouTube channel. He built some very nice budget precision rifles.
youtube.com/watch?v=uZ80q6Ms3BE&list=PLCzJy0eY5h1EGLan6OXlfbtyozMottoqb

You should invest less in the rifle, but more in the optics.
If money doesn`t matter, I`d get a Heym HPPR (Pic related). Absolutely gorgeous.

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>Doesn't a slower twist rate take longer to stabilize the bullet, so benefit from a longer barrel over which to impart the rotation? Similarly a shorter barrel with a given twist might benefit from a slightly lighter bullet that "twists up" faster?
No.
Look with a 1:10 stick with 165 min. It groups better. It isn't velocity, you are only losing about 300pfs from a 22" to 16". The .jpg related was making cold-bore 1000yd shots. it has to do with weight and co-efficency of the round.
The following has a lot of good articles on bolties.
> rifleshooter.com/2015/02/the-16-inch-308-winchester-bolt-action-rifle/

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I can ping 900m and further standard 18"steel with dial in using pick related. And I'm currently picking up pieces for a sr25/m110 build like I was issued.

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