On the left is my tactical flashlight’s battery after ~300 shotgun slugs. I wonder...

On the left is my tactical flashlight’s battery after ~300 shotgun slugs. I wonder, is there a way to prevent battery deformation after heavy usage of a shotgun? Or is it normal and batteries are just expendable mats?

Attached: 187FBC9B-6571-4EA6-93E3-D4EEA043781C.jpg (2048x1536, 315K)

>is there a way to prevent battery deformation after heavy usage of a shotgun?

Use a rifle faggot. Shotguns are for hunting birds. Rifles do everything else better.

What type of material is being deformed? Maybe put a high density metal spacer in?

I need to own a shotgun for 5 years to get a rifle loicence.

Attached: 7A488521-B906-48A1-86DF-9D71074BF6D1.jpg (4032x3024, 1.95M)

The plus tip of 18650 is set on 3 legs away from actual battery, so it’s very susceptible to being pushed in like picured in the op.

Attached: Despair.jpg (500x282, 39K)

What stupid fucking country do you live in?

Sounds like Australia

Russia

You could put a small o-ring or similar cushion to each end of the battery in a way that they still make contact, alternatively just remove the batteries when shooting slugs during the day

The only 2 solutions I see right now are,
A.Metal spacer (glue the sides or something of that nature.
or
B. (What I prefer) seeing how the spring tension is on the retainer spring for these batteries and adjusting accordingly (assuming they have one). Higher spring tension=less chance of bouncing around. Might require some engineering on your part, but if you don't want to buy more batteries...

Where is the light mounted and what kind of light is it?

I have a streamlight tlr1 mounted on the side and I've never experienced any problems like this.

Are you sure it's not just because the battery is a cheap piece of shit?

Thanks, I’ll look into it.
Under the fore-end, no batteries are Sony VTC4, best in class.

the contacts are solder able so just take a soldering iron and fill it up

Flashlight is armytek viking pro.

Good idea, thanks.

How is the fabarm btw?
They are about to be sold in the US.
$1k for a pump action seems silly though

also if you are worried about it getting hot wrap the rest of the battery in wet paper towel while you are soldering

Russian have to own smoothbore firearms (which include shotguns) for five years before owning a rifle
Subsequently, Ruskis are some the most absolute hardcore scattergat fags you'll ever meet and know loads of cool shit you can do with them

Yeah, STF-12 Compact. I’m stuck with it for 5 years, might as well shell out 1K. I can’t buy more than 5 smooth-bore guns, so might as well go hard.
Are you trying to kill me?

Smooth action? Handles all types of shells? What kind of chokes does it take? Anything you don't like about it? Any aftermarket upgrades?
Can I get one without the muzzle brake?

Attached: 1378586282667.jpg (640x512, 86K)

Performance wise the picrail ghost ring is too wide for 50+ meters, it’s really fucking heavy module weapon held together with screws, which are prone to loosening after heavy usage. This includes picrail, anything you mount on it, pistol grip and doorbreacher. So tighten those hard as fuck. Mechanical parts are pure sex tho, you barely notice any friction during pump action. Cleaning and disassembly is a breeze.

Get a weaponlight that takes CR123s.

Aren't there Russkies working on some kind of SKS based smoothbore "shotgun" that uses a paradox rifled muzzle device to shoot "slugs" (That happen to be nearly the same dimensions as rifle bullets) to get around that law? I seem to remember seeing that somewhere.

Very, very smooth. No issues with cheap slugs, which broke apart in my friends Vepr (pic). Buckshot is handled normally as well. It cones with 2 cokes, both cylindrical, one to mount the doorbreacher, the other to use without one. Yes, the ones w/o doorbreacher are called “Initial” and are substantially cheaper. No aftermarket upgrades.

Everything that takes 18650s takes cr123s.

Forgot Vepr pic.
Paradox and Lancaster bore, yeah. They use .366 TKM cal, similar to .410. Paradox versions are prone to getting stuck in the nozzle exploding the barrel, lol.

Attached: C4BAFC62-2CAA-4795-92FB-17DA2C4F92EB.jpg (4032x3024, 1.92M)

.366 paradox pic

Attached: 463C4C99-F54A-4F7F-A2EB-E4330B479342.jpg (200x120, 16K)

Then use them. Broblems weren't

I probably will. 123s are weak tho.

Use a button cell or solder a little bump on it. If it's functional deformed, don't worry about it.

Softer or longer springs maybe? I know that you're supposed to wrap maglite batteries in tape before beating people with them, so that might work too.

use O-rings as buffers

ask yourself how oning a shotgun, for any amount of time , qualifies a person to own a rifle. This is just police state BS

>Ruskis are some the most absolute hardcore scattergat fags you'll ever meet
damn right. anything shotgun related gets them fully erect. salient arms and those race shotguns gets them moister than an oyster. if ITAR didnt exist, anyone who had richfag clientle over there could make a mint on dumb shit.

if you manage to go 5 years without shooting someone you are probably a responsible person. if you do go nuts lol cant get though the swat teams armor.

you can over amp something like that, and 18650's are slightly wider than a cr123, and light bodies need to be bored out to fit 18650's.

Put some epoxy glue under the contact so it cant deform. A regular 18650 probavly isnt meant to experience those forces.

Streamlight makes 18650 batteries. I wonder if they are built with use of firearms in mind.

If it takes you more than a couple seconds then you are doing it wrong. You should be in and out before the battery gets warm.

If it takes you longer you need a more powerful soldering iron. Those shitty 20 watt ones that cost $10 are only for tiny gauge wire or circuit board stuff.

Newer lights take both. I own a streamlight that specifically says it can use both

fuck, I wish my surefire did. how do you like it, and which model do you have?

Or you could shoot at their dicks

My streamlight is a handheld model, protac 2l-x but it can use either 18650 or cr123. No complaints.

I also suggest orings as a first step. Cheap and not permanent if it doesn't work

Make the first shell a flare, no need for flash light.

Genuinely curious, I met a few Russians who were exchange students at my colleges business school. They indicated that the gun laws in Russia were sparsely enforced - such that the average ivan could own a fully automatic 47. Although I cant remember if either actually owned a gun - so their comments could have been exaggerations. Is it difficult to own guns out there in russia?

Can you source me a Perst 3 from there? I will pay you good.

thanks, I'm going to look at those sometime this week.

Take the batteries out when you're LARPing at the range. Insert the batteries when you get home and prepare for the Black Alien Zombie Ninja invasion, you imbecile.

You comedy is exceptional. Do you take your show on the road?

Surefire used to sell battery modules that had a plastic washer between the cells.

Attached: 1526269589772.jpg (720x384, 42K)

take the flashlight off while practicing retard. do you really have to train how to press a button?

This post aborted me.

I want it to function as a complex, so I train with it as a complex. Different weight and ergonomics with flashlight. So far said complex doesn’t pass durablilty test.
In rural areas anything goes. 1 cop per 10000 sq. M. whachu gunna do.