What are some of the best bushcraft knives with strike plates? 5"+...

Do you find the fact that it's stainless and not Carbon steel to be any kind of disadvantage? Carbon steels are the traditional go to for survival and bushcraft.

nope, and it doesn't rust

Stainless steel have come a long way, grandpa

I like the ESEE knives I have. I'd probably get the 3 or 4 if I was getting another.

I guess the Bushcrafter kind of occupies the space an ESEE 5 would.

>strike plate
I'm 12 and what is this

Extended piece of metal on the bottom of the handle.

I have an esee 6 and it's huge, impractical but usable for most things, but on the other hand is big enough to be a decent chopper

Yeah, the 4 is my favorite.

>strike plate
>bushcraft

Pick one.

Well, in most cases it's just a glorified lanyard hole. I can't think of a good use for it as a striking surface.

What I meant, is that in a bushcraft knife, you want a handle that does NOT protrude from your hand, because if you were to use the chest pull cut (which is good, because it allows you to use your back muscles to do the work), you end up bruising your ribs if there is anything sticking out on that end, and the glassbreaker/skullcrusher pummel gets as "sticking out" as it gets. Pic related is all you need in a bushcraft knife, and if you are OCD about having a full tang knife, you can always get a full tang version of it (I know LTWK makes one, but it's such a basic design, you should have no trouble finding one).

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>slick when wet handle

No thanks, user. You can keep that one.

>birch bark handle
>slippery

guess how I know you have no idea about using a knife outdoors. I'll give you 3 tries.

you posted it already, except the non serated 5.

Whatever you've lacquered that shit with to get a high shine isn't going to be grippy at all. It could be made of sandpaper and still get slick.

strike one

It's varnish, and it's very grippy, even when wet. But you'd know that if you had any actual experience with knives...

as if the fact that this particular model of knife has been made continuously in Kauhava for over a century wasn't a big enough clue that it works.

Thought the point was for it to be a tool? The only thing I don't like about the esee5 is the strike plate is not flat..

Esee. But if you can afford it and want a more traditional looking knife, winkler.

I'm not opposed to the pricy knives but this is a knife I want to not worry about having to beat up so under $200 would be best unless there's something really nice..

>zero wear

That knife has never been outside your mother's back yard.

ESEE is relatively cheap. Maybe look into the Tops BOB. Sizing is roughly between an ESEE 4 and 5.

Ya I was looking at the BOB. The ESEE 5 is perfect for me just the strike plate isn't flat.

samefag knife expert

If you mean "bushcraft" as in larping then go get the most serrated, tactical autism-inspirering knife you can get.

If you mean a knife that's going to be good for actual knife work you should probably ask /out/ as they give better answers on these things than Jow Forums does IMO.

Anyways. You'll want knife with no serrations (it's ruining the most used part of the edge and can't be sharpened again without special tools) - not on the back either as you put your thumb there when doing more fine carving. You'll also want a lenght of about 3.5 to 4.5 inches. This will allow for a bit of chopping or battoning while still being practical for carving and general use (but get an axe if you really want to chop anyway). The blade should also be a bit thick if you want to baton and chop with it, but don't go over 4 mm at the back as it makes the knife worse at slicing and carving. I'd personally prefer a knife around 3mm thick.
Scandinavian grind is the most popular since it's good for carving and splitting and the easiest to sharpen up with a stone. A flat 90 degree back will allow you to use a ferro rod with it, but grinding a rounded back flat is easy, so no big deal.

Full tang is nice, but a long sturdy rat tang is also fine unless you're actively abusing it. As for steel it kinda depends on were you live and how well you'll clean/dry it after use. Stainless is foolproof, while carbon steels (O1, O2, D1 and many others) can rust if exposed to moisture over time. Whipe them and oil them after a trip.

Chose one with a simple, ergonomic no-bullshit handle that lets you hold the knife in different ways without discomfort (some carving techniques will have you hold it with the edge towards yourself and draw with your body)

Without going into specific brands a knife shaped like the one in the picture will do you well as an all-round bushcraft knife. Or simply get a Mora Companion and decide if you want something more gucci later.

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>no guard
>no gimping
>no distinct choil or ricasso or quillion or handle contour or literally anything to keep your fingers from choking up onto the edge

Don't do any "bushcraft" until your mom is home so she can drive you to the hospital.

This. I'm just going to reiterate a few of your points because they're spot on.

Outside of a very narrow band of uses serrated and partially serrated knives are a source of utter disgust for me. It's easier to keep a straight edge sharp enough to not be significantly assisted by serrations than to work around serrations most of the time.

And you're better off with a smaller knife (~4") and a hatchet than one big ass knife that's garbage for a wide variety of tasks.

Good post, user. Gold star for you.

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I've owned an ESEE 3 since 2010 and it's the best knife I have ever owned. Keeps an edge, very durable, extremely grippy, good shape. I recently bought an ESEE 5 (about 2 years ago I think?) and it's a bit of the opposite, I don't know what it is for but the blade is extremely thick, so I assume batoning. I'd rather a thinner blade honestly, since it makes camp tasks like butchering game or chopping shit much easier, and I'm not going to baton since I have an axe as well.

IMO the best ESEE is the 4. Not to big, not to little. I haven't had a hold of that new Laserstrike or whatever yet.

I also actually like the 6 more than the 5. It doesn't feel as beefy given the extra length, is actually a narrower blade profile as far as I remember, and I can't think of a job I'd want the bonus muscle for that I wouldn't rather be doing with the 6.

what bayonet in history was the best at also being a knife?

Like a survival / bushcraft knife or a "stab a motherfucker" knife?

/out/ is a dead board

yeah, my brother has the 6 and hands down it is thinner. Like I said, I'm not certain what the 5 is for besides batoning. 3 is best small knife, 4 good compromise, 6 is the best of their large ones.

I don't own a 3 but I do own an Izula II. That blade is about 2.6" and I find it to be surprisingly utilitarian. Chunky little fucker can take a beating too.

>That knife has never been outside

wrong. Just because it's not beat to hell and back is more a result of being one of several knives I carry, depending on the mood that strikes me. And the high polish helps, though the blade isn't as pristine as when I got it.

>all those memes

Forget guards, choils, and other bullshit. Learn to use a knife, and you won't need any of it. Mors certainly hasn't, for the last 40 years at least.

a knife knife, not a sab knife.
was just wondering what bayonet what most knife knife and less tab stab but better use for knife knife

I'd have to say the M9.

Pointless shit. If you have to break the glass, you would break it in any way. Otherwise it just prevents you from having a diagonal hold on knife
I double this. Puukko is the best thing for wood cutting.
In fact, during WWII puukko shape was the most popular knife type on the Eastern front, since it was useful both for utility and military tasks.
Bushcraft knife needs no guard, it's a fucking tool.
>Mors certainly hasn't, for the last 40 years at least.
DESU, one of the oldest Mora of Sweden knives is a hunting dagger with a hanguard - Jaktkniv aka Survival Knife from BF1.
Well, I'm not an expert, but I think of Kar 98 and SVT-40 bayonets as the ones that are good for cutting things, since many of them were rebuilt in frontline workshops as the recon daggers.

It's meant to be used as a hammer or to pry but ok.

I've been interested in survive knives for their 3v stuff but haven't bought one yet

>rattail tang
csgo and stay go

Rat tail tangs aren't necessarily bad for standard knife uses.

>one of the oldest Mora of Sweden knives is a hunting dagger with a hanguard

there's a slight difference between wood crafts, and sticking your arm into a deer up to the elbow. And hunting knives never have upper guards, unless you go for some bowie fighting knife. Hell, my regular edc only has a lower guard.

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>And hunting knives never have upper guards, unless you go for some bowie fighting knif
morakniv.se/en/vintage-catalogs/
Frosts Bohlmark - 1926 - page 30 - Jaktslidkniv.

Also, there were other hunting knives with upper guards, such as Samsonov Bear Knife from Tula, though it was inspired by Bowie.

hmm, would a modern bayonet need to be that long? a knife that long would be very disadvantagious for knife use.
i am asking becuause i am dreaming up a ""suevival"" rifle, like the M6, but also having fun with the idea of being able to combine the stock with the fronguard to form a spear while stille being able to gun. or disattaching the handguard to to find a a way to do a full tang knife bayonet,

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>hmm, would a modern bayonet need to be that long? a knife that long would be very disadvantagious for knife use.
i am asking becuause i am dreaming up a ""suevival"" rifle, like the M6, but also having fun with the idea of being able to combine the stock with the fronguard to form a spear while stille being able to gun. or disattaching the handguard to to find a a way to do a full tang knife bayonet,

>this entire post

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>hmm, would a modern bayonet need to be that long
Well, many of those frontline conversions had the bayonets shortened.
Picrelated is a Kar 98 bayonet shortened to 15 cm.
>a ""suevival"" rifle, like the M6,
Just buy Steyr Scout and a long utility knife like Marttiini 138, that all you'll ever need, you sick fuck.

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Czech Mauser

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