Building a 10-22

I would like to build a 10-22. I have access to a 3D printer and possibly a CNC. I plan on using a synthetic receiver, trigger housing, and possibly a synthetic stock. I'd like to keep it light and keep it short if possible (bullpup?). I eventually plan on having a suppressor on it, God willing. What are some good components to complete this build? I've read that 18"+ bull barrels are the bee's knees, and I've heard that they don't do much. I know it would probably be (much) cheaper to just buy one, but I feel I must /DIY/ this as much as possible.

Thanks.

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Other urls found in this thread:

tacticalinc.com/1022®-style-80-percent-brreceiver-blank-extended-rail-br-atf-approved-no-ffl-required-p-3899.html
ruger1022receiver.com/
thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/03/25/diy-1022-takedown/
atomicarmsllc.com/product-category/1022-parts/80-receivers/
pikearms.com/1022-style-elite22-80-receivers-accessories-c-2214.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

reported to ruger for patent infringement

>I plan to be building a rifle from scratch because I'm some sort of genius.
>But can you give me some ideas because I'm an imbecile

nigger help him or stfu

Ruger 10/22 would be out of patent in America, but they probably still hold the trademark.

reported to Overlord Pence for being a faggot.

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Literally why, all of these components are available cheap

Just get a 10/22 and mod it with some volquartsen shit

>why
It seems wasteful to buy a gun, strip everything off it, and replace the parts with parts I could have just bought initially.

Besides, it seems like a fun project that if successful could provide a foundation for other projects in the future.

Do you actually understand what you're proposing to do? It is absolutely silly and you would need to buy one anyways to reverse engineer it to do what you want

And buying one and replacing parts doesn't result in you replacing everything, it results in you replacing some things while say the receiver remains.

>reverse engineer
that has already been done. My main concern is making sure the aftermarket barrel fits whatever stock I pick. There are bullpup stocks available for "airsoft" that I am thinking about overlaying with the "stock" stock and using that as a template to cut out the channels needed for the barrel /receiver / group / well / etc.

I'm not paying $200 for some fucking plastic stock that looks like a p90 or whatever the fuck else.

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Are any of you familiar with the machined pins that screw together snugly into a counter sunk assembly so that they don't just fall out? I've never seen them before, but the way they were described reminds me of a pollen press. I'm assuming there is a pin that has hollowed out ends that are threaded to accept a machine head screw on each side that when tightened fit perfectly within the frame while the flared heads keep the "pin" from falling out either side.

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I printed one. It's okay.

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Just the receiver? Did you incorporate rails or does it just bolt on?

Just the receiver, yeah. Used the integrated picatinny model up on fosscad. It needs a bit of tooling after the fact, like a few dimensions opened up and all the holes threaded. Otherwise it's good to go.

Does a stock have to be specialized to fit a heavy/bull barrel? I'm wondering if I should make one to normal specs and sand if needed, or if I should lay a cylinder in the stock in CAD that is the same dimensions as the barrel I use and use it to cut out any excess material before printing a prototype.

Not the same user but did you use ABS or PLA?

>integrated picatinny model

This one?

Attached: 10-22_Receiver.png (800x600, 44K)

Depends on the stock, some are tapered to the original barrels and some aren't. But yeah if you just do an extruded cut from the base diameter that'll get it.
ABS. I hate PLA.
Nope, you'll know it when you see it.

Also, did you use a donor gun, or did you buy parts a la cart? I've seen receiverless "kits"/stripped rifles sold (used) for over $200-$250 and felt that was too much considering new is about as much, granted the used one won't require paperwork, taxes, and other infringe....fees.

Off topic, but I passed some heated fat I was rendering through a PLA screen I printed out for another project (filter was slow and the screen was looking at me). Within a minute the PLA was sagging from the heat.

It was about half and half, I used what I had laying around from other builds like the bolt, recoil spring, and v block, some was new stuff like the bx trigger and 6" barrel. Since it's a 10/22 and you're gonna end up swapping everything out on it anyway might as well piece it out.

Any advice for acquiring affordable parts, or is spending an arm and a leg to be expected?

It just needs a big enough clearance

I'm surprised that the 10/22 works with 3d printed polymer receivers. Putting a bull barrel on a polymer receiver seems kind of pointless though, the polymer is going to flex so your barrel is going to move relative to your optic... Goes back to the question of what's the point

>you'll know it when you see it.


I had to open the actual file to confirm since there was no render of it.

Attached: I think I found it.jpg (764x730, 100K)

I hear it does well if you bake it, but who has time for that.
Stalk Ebay, you find cheap parts now and again. But yeah expect to pay the gun nerd tax.
Bingo.

There are polymer pistols and AR receivers. Other than the front clasps snapping off on occasion, I haven't heard of other issues.

It does just fine if you don't magdump like a retard. Never had any issues with mine so far. Apart from it delaminating that one time but that was because I threw it in the back of my truck under like 50lbs of shit. Whoops. Little glue and its good as new.

Thanks for posting. I thought this thread would get trolled into oblivion. I considered posting on >>/DIY/, but they're mostly into 3DP waifus and nerf guns; also that one guy who made the dick statue from Clockwork Orange.

There are effectively disposable polymer pistols and there are polymer AR LOWER receivers (a non stressed part)

This goes back to my question of literally why though, the cast Ruger receiver costs you virtually nothing since like you said the parts cost you $250. I've seen 10/22s on sale for less than $150 which is fucking nuts so it makes more sense to just get the receiver to me. I get printing a stock but why fuck around with the receiver to get an inferior part for more money

So PLA wouldn't be the best choice or could it be used if you only not mag dumping and shooting a lot?

I really wouldn't use PLA. I mean, you could try, but I would only use it as a prototype. With this summer heat you might be okay printing ABS at 100% infill and then baking it if you have to. Also, there are other easy to print plastics out there now that have surpassed ABS, at least according to the nerds on youtube.

Two reasons. Primarily, just to see if I could build a spoopy ghost gun. Just for funsies basically. Secondarily, you can't build a pistol out of a 10/22, has to be a virgin receiver or a charger for that. All that business is kind of a pain in the ass.
It'd be fine for a while. How long that while is is up for debate. Honestly I wouldn't use pla for anything serious period.

>challenge
>DIY fun
>"because I can"
>no paperwork
>SHTF preparedness
>prototype for metal casting


Why not?

Fair enough and alright thanks for the info not OP but yeah I'll try baking it sadly my crap 3D printer can only do PLA and not ABS.

Back to the OP, what parts would you recommend, avoid? I've heard recommendations for Volquartsen and also the BX trigger. Is the auto bolt release a must have?

what printer?

da vinci jr 1.0 the only plus side to it is the build volume and it was cheap ($130 on newegg)

maybe look into OrbiumTM or other meme filaments? It's [the current year].

>da vinci jr 1.0
maybe try to think outside the box. Print out the receiver in a low temp filament and cast it. They sell ARs in a bottle that you pour into a mold. you could probably buy a 2 part resin and pour it into a DIY mold that was printed.

don't settle.

Can't sadly I can only use the manufacturer filament I need to take the plung and just modify my printer to accept other filament.

hot end swap? I bought a chinese clone for nylon and shit I still need to install on my CR-10.

I was thinking a mold would be the way to go after I print a receiver and check to make sure I have the right dimensions then start toying with different designs.

once the printer pays for itself it makes it easier to justify buying an upgrade. Mine has come in handy fixing things around the house, but I really want to use it for firearms and musical instruments.

The spool holder has a reader of sorts that requires a little bit of tinkering I found an instructable that would be fairly cheap to do just haven't had time.

I'm actually going back and forth on this myself at the moment.

I want a toggle action 22 and the options aren't great. ~800 for a russian one with unobtanium mags, ~600 for a steyr but only 10 round mags and they are 30 each. So by the time I have 100 rounds on tap, I'm at about 900. And at that point I'm looking at the volquartsen reciever/bolt for 550. I'm not doing their 1200 dollar rifle.

So the question is whether I look for a donor ruger and swap out the bolt/receiver. Or if I look for parts a la cart.

What stock is this?

What I'd love to build is a Mk2/3, but for some reason the parts are unobtanium unless you want to go full volquartsen

Knoxx axiom, permanently modified to be unable to accept actual stocks of course.

Hi OP

theyre called sex bolts, homie

Metal casting works.

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you realize a bunch of companies make 10/22 receivers, right? the patent died awhile ago

Or Chicago screws if your mind isn’t in the gutter all the time.

thanks. would you recommend these over pins that can slip out, or are they just another pipe dream?

Buy an 80% receiver. Why on earth do you feel the need to waste time & money building that part from scratch?

This, exactly.

Draw up your budget FIRST, THEN plan your build. Do you have a clue how expensive a full tilt custom 1022 can get? Don't be obtuse.

Dude, have you set out what your requirements for your design are? Is it performance? Weight? Aesthetic? If you don't go full potato on this, that will mean a LOT of extra practice ammo, or money to put in a 401K.

Dude, are you sure that you are up for this? The juice is not worth the squeeze, unless you are in it for non performance, non-valuing your own time reasons.

I'd like it light weight and as light on the budget as possible.

I have more time than money at the moment. This is also to serve as an exercise in learning.

tacticalinc.com/1022®-style-80-percent-brreceiver-blank-extended-rail-br-atf-approved-no-ffl-required-p-3899.html

Why not just get a 80% then piece everything else out? it just takes a couple of holes very very carefully drilled.

>tacticalinc.com/1022®-style-80-percent-brreceiver-blank-extended-rail-br-atf-approved-no-ffl-required-p-3899.html
if the DIY receiver can't be done then I will do the 80% route. I already have the materials to at least try.

Did you do the lost PLA method w/ aluminum?

>tacticalinc.com/1022®-style-80-percent-brreceiver-blank-extended-rail-br-atf-approved-no-ffl-required-p-3899.html

holy shit dude, that price. I'd rather spend it on tools.

What orientation did you print it in? I was thinking about printing it rail side down but it seemed like so little material touching the bed... But it would eliminate most of the need for supports with the overhang angle around 40 degrees

ruger1022receiver.com/

this guy even does 10/22 magnum 80% receivers.

> that price
it was the first link on google. im sure you can find cheaper

Not that poster, but they also have wax filament for such projects. Once you start getting into this shit you can't stop. Self reliance is one hell of a drug.

Being unconventional and persistent has allowed me to be debt free. House (not a cuck shed on wheels), vehicles, and all other property is 100% paid for. I paid off the house before I turned 30 a few years ago. People like to criticize, but I am content in my ways.

>ruger1022receiver.com/
Thanks. I appreciate your help. I will try polymer, then cast aluminum, and if I just can't into DIY, I will save my shekels and lay em down on an 80% lower.

i never assume peoples machining prowess... the 80% seem very easy because its "just a few holes to drill"... it is much less forgiving than an ar 80%. measure multiple times to EXACT locations and drill small, then ream to size. go slow, use a high quality vise and drill press.
my dumb shit brother with no patience went through three of them before having me do it.

Rail down, yes.

Those are some expensive mistakes.

>Those are some expensive mistakes.
more money than brains etc etc...

I think I'm getting ahead of myself, but this looks interesting:

thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/03/25/diy-1022-takedown/

Do you know where to get one that isn't 139.99?

atomicarmsllc.com/product-category/1022-parts/80-receivers/
>$120
pikearms.com/1022-style-elite22-80-receivers-accessories-c-2214.html
>$115
google is your friend. also watch for sales this coming 4th of july, then labor day. there was a sale a bit ago for an 80% 10/22 receiver for like $85