Reloading General

>cast .308
doesn't that go too fast down the barrel and cause lead fouling?

>I also have that .308 230 and hate that thing.

I use mine for 300 BLK and it works well for sub plinkers.

Not with mild charges and a good powder coating

I shoot it in a .300Blk. Ive never done any cast high velocity stuff. Im pretty sure with the right alloy, powder coating, sizing, and maybe a gas check you can push a cast bullet right along and not experience leading.
Castboolits website is where Ive learned the most.

The 308 230gr is pretty much purpose made for just subsonic 300BO. Mine works well for that.
Some people put gas checks on the boat tail and claim it helps with other uses.

Aww yeah boys. Running low on lead though. Anyone casting 9mm HPs?

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Your powdercoating technique. Tell me now.

Not him but if you take the time to turn them all upright and set on base before baking, they come out nice, but not any nor functional in my experience

>rinse bullets in rubbing alcohol, let dry
>take Tupperware container with recycling #5 on bottom
>add layer of 25g black airsoft bbs to the bottom
>put bullets in
>add a few spoons of powdercoat
>cover, swirl 30 secs, shake up and down 30 secs
>take tweezers, stand bullets on baking parchment on pan
>bake at 380 degrees for 15 mins
Now the powder coat is also key. Pic related, success and fail, same company, different color.

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Thanks. Those blue ones are friggin presentation worthy.

Thanks I'm happy with how they turned out. That's Ford Dark Blue, I have similar results with Ford Light Blue. Guys on castboolits forum using Smokes have posted great results too.

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What's the best gunpowder for making iced greenade tea? Had it once a decade ago

bump

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why the fuck cant reloading equipment be standardized?
>uncle gives me a press, scale, case trimmer, and dies for calibers i dont shoot
>get 7mm Mauser dies, comes with free shell holder
>shell holder incompatible with my press
>buy adapter, it breaks
>contact company, they send another, it breaks again
>ghetto fix
>get correct shell holder
>priming punch not compatible with shell holder
would it be safe to open the hole in the middle of the shell holder from .25 inches to .303 inches?

They sell smaller decapping bits for small primer holes

bump

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>made a digital PID controller for.
What are you using for a case? I'm in the middle of starting up a salt bath annealing setup and I'm not sure how much cooling the relay is going to need...

How much powder is too much?

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I forget what the legal limit is but the atf might want to have a word with your dog. The fire marshal would be very unhappy as well, but to my knowledge they don't shoot dogs.

>How much powder is too much?
No such thing, user. If I were you, though, I'd put whatever I wasn't using away in a barrel or strongbox or something and put it somewhere out of sight. Just to prevent theft or fire hazard. I'm juuust starting and vowing to keep my powder selection limited. Only gonna be reloading for one cartridge anyway. Too much selection makes me anxious. It won't go bad, I know, but still. I like to keep stuff simple.

Just trashed that same scale. Was completely garbage.

The legal limit varies by state (and even county or municipality) and is often in the fire code.
I know where I live, I am allowed 10lbs of accelerant (smokeless is categorized as that) and a half pound of explosives (black powder and most primers count here). I also know unless you are either directly reported or something directly happens (like a fire), nobody short of a fire marshal is going to give a crap.

>fit primers into brass primer pockets
>load your accelerant into cartridge
>seal with a bullet
???
>accelerant and explosives stockpile is now within legal limit

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Funny how that works ay?

You would be surprised. Currently selling my house and my town requires the fire marshal to certify that my house is "safe." (This is how I know my exact limits) According to our fire marshal, loaded ammo counted toward the limit of "explosives" (case and bullet included). At least he said this before he inspected.

A solution to this is that all my powder, primers, ammo, gas cans and most of my guns are at a trusted friend's place right now. Still barely made the limits with other household items.

>even the gas cans
Yeeeegh. Good to know. Thanks user. I'm beginning to wonder if I'm in an apartment or a college dorm or whatever if I should just rent out a storage unit and have my reloading bench there.

Well idk about a dorm but apt should be fine

Check your rental agreement. If nothing is said, it is usually easier to ask forgiveness than permission if your landlord causes a stink.

Also note (I am the one you are replying to), I live in a very blue state (NJ) and towns are known to have "inspections" that are completely a joke (as in somebody walks in the door, says "yup, you pass, now give me money").

I'm probably over the 50 pound whatever is supposed to be in a wooden crate thing... Who knows...

Gib 7.5x55 dies

U can get them on amazon for under $40 desu

eabco.net/Redding-75x55-Swiss-K-31-Deluxe-3-Die-Set_p_15424.html

>Lee dies
Fucking finally back in stock

Excuse me
*$41
amazon.com/RCBS-7-5-Schmidt-Rubin-Die-Set/dp/B000N8MUYI

Oh 2 die. Yeah I just grabbed the Redding 3 die set, they make a VLD micrometer seater and bought one used for cheap because that's what I'll be reloading.

Bump

Bad idea to put it in a strong box. Anything that can turn into a pressure vessel is not a good idea.

What would make a good storage vessel?

yeh, you're right. wasn't thinking.

not him but i'd guess some kind of fireproof safe. sentrysafe says don't put ammo in their boxes but it'd probably be fine. it's not an airtight seal, at least, should any of them go off.

I have one like this. No idea how well it works because it hasnt been in a fire.
ballisticproducts.com/Portable-Storage-Magazine-Type-4-Indoor/productinfo/1360001/

I think the idea behind a powder magazine is to direct the explosion straight up, instead of turning the entire container into a fragmentation vessel.

Honestly, I just keep it in a cool dry corner or a large closet in a place that if a house fire reached that point, it'd be lost anyway.

Neat. Just needs an "Attn Fuckheads this will explode if you try and break into it" sticker

Hmm maybe I should move mine.
youtu.be/z8JNzWbBBIs

>Be retarded
>Reloading at 2am on a work day because I'm a retard
>almost done, just have to seat the bullet
>About 20 .308 bullets in, I realize I forgot to put powder in these.
>Don't own a bullet puller because I'm stupid.
>Say "fuck it. They're cast bullets, I'll just pry them out.
>About half of them break with the bottom half stuck in the casing.
>tfw
Someone please kill me.

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It's just brass, user. You can even save the lead and reuse it. At least you aren't a PTR owner and not able to reload 308. Go to bed my guy. You'll get 'em tomorrow.

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Anybody know where the heck I can find a lyman 310 tool? They still sell the dies, but the tongs themselves are discontinued. I just want to reload cartridges like a cowboy. :(

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>Lee dies
Ok, I take your point on seating dies but name a better way to neck size, without a bushing, than the Lee collet die. If you're not going the bump size with a FL bushing die route that's your best option.

Iktf

Im reloading .44 mag and i think my flare might be too much. The thing is, with any lesser flare the bullet gets shaved and its only a .430 diameter cast bullet. Is this alright or does the shaving not matter?

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b U M p

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You don't want the bullet shaved at all. Not only can it cause the bullet to be unbalanced, you are creating a undersized spot where you will get increased leading.

You want to bell the case enough that bullets will reliably seat without shaving of lead. I know this is vague, but as time goes on, you will get a "feel" for it. Unfortunately that feel will come at the cost of some cases.

I go deeper

Any significant differences between the Lyman T-Mag 1 and the T-Mag 2? I found a T-Mag 1 for cheap.

WHY THE FUCK IS THE FORSTER CO-AX SOLD OUT EVRYWHERE

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Tax season

they've been sold out since october of last year supposedly

Holy crap, not even somebody trying to resell one at 2x the price on eBay or Gunbroker.
What the fuck makes that press so desirable? Does it give a blowjob as you reload your ammo?

good ad copy.

Reloading feels
>be weighing charges on triple beam scale
>you are like 0.05 grains from perfection
>oops, you went over by about 0.1 grains
>remove some powder
>now you are over by 0.2 grains
FUCK

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No shellholders for each caliber needed
No special bushings needed
No screwing dies into anything, just slide it into the die slot
Lever is centered and fulcrum is very close to the die, less leverage need to work and less stress on the bench
Casing floats left and right in the shellholder, die floats forward and back in its slot, both combined helps to center your casing into the die
General machining is very good since it's forster
If you only want one single single press to do everything, it's a good choice.

this is a very detailed review
youtube.com/watch?v=NEzVZe7f6G0

>mfw RCBS Rock Crusher is Just As Good (tm)

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What do you look for in determining brass quality? Neck wall thickness? Internet hearsay? Made in Binland stamp on the box?
PPU brass is like half the price of Lapua brass for 7.5 Swiss. There's a video of a guy hitting 2/7 on a milkjug at 1k yards (w irons) using PPU so is that good enough?

Depends on your purposes. If loading 45 Super, for example: a strong web at the base, because 1911s don't have a fully supported chamber. You can't go wrong with Starline tbhwy.

That throw.. looks tiring. My RCBS does the same thing..just better.

Kek
I use starline for 10mm for long reloading life; I just shoot hot stuff. For 556/762NEATO it's range brass/surplus. ARs and BRs are high volume minute of man shooting. For milsurp it's get what you can get, hard to spend $1.5 on a single piece of brass for a hundred year old gun w irons if I don't have to.
Fuck Berdan and Berdan people though.

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>My RCBS does the same thing..just better.

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Depends on what it is going into. If it is going into a milsurp, without a doubt PPU is as good as any. If you are putting it into a custom made action with a custom barrel that was made by dwarves using elves blood, you might want one of the Gucci brands of brass.

K31. Pic unrelated

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>that chassis

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First, it doesn't matter what you put the gun into, if it is only able to hold 1-2moa, it is only able to hold 1-2 moa. The amount of improvement you will see with Lapua over Prvi is negligible since the gun is only capable of so much.

Second, you sir, are a monster for putting an innocent k31 through that.

It was actually a G*rman who's responsible for this. Seriously nuke Berlin when

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Anyone use WC846 or other surplus powders?

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I used to reload a lot of 12g on a progressive press and I'm about to start reloading brass. I inherited an old 1960's single stage Herters press with tons of die sets, couple of powder measures, lead pot, and a bunch of random rounds, molds and cartridges I have no use for. As someone who doesn't shoot a lot (due to location), but does a decent amount, I feel that I will get tired of the single stage press fairly quickly.

So my questions are, Should I get a turret press that index's or get a progressive?
Not having to swap out dies each step will be more efficient either way.
Also, what are your go to powders for .223 .308 Win and .45 ACP?

Progressive.
No point to a turret press since quick change bushings came out.

I started with a progressive (Lee Loadmaster)
I did fine. I just started slow and weigh every loaded round to make sure they are all within a few grains of each other and there aren’t any suspiciously underweight ones.

SSPs are nice for rifles though

I'm used to the the process, had a load of birdshot roll out the end of my barrel when I got too comfortable once.
Would the price of a progressive be worth it for someone who shoots 2-3 times a month?
Local Cabela's has pic related for $130 and I have a gift card. Would be able to use a powder throw I inherited.
I'll probably use that for hunting rounds.

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honestly thats good to hear, I was afraid I was flaring too much due to 9mm mak not needing much flaring at all.

>PTR owner
have you know I made a port buffer out of some old scope rings and a rug. 9 out of 10 cases are perfectly reloadable

>Would the price of a progressive be worth it for someone who shoots 2-3 times a month?
Depends.
>Local Cabela's has pic related for $130
Turret presses are fine. I would go for it since you have the gift card

The best deal is Hornady LnL progressive that comes w free bullets. I got a Pro Chucker 5 off Amazon when RCBS has their rebate program going and it ended up being even cheaper than the LnL. They usually do it in Nov or Dec but maybe other times too.

i ran a 5/16 drill bit through the shell holder. works like a charm now. you dont want to know how i was priming my brass before this fix

Hopefully by hand in front of the tele getting your dick sucked like one should.

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just buy bullets or maybe dies from Cabelas unless it's a big ass gift card... BassPoo has ruined them... I have a couple Pro1000s for pistol and bulk 223/300blk stuff and a classic cast single for good rifle stuff since proper brass prep makes progressive a non starter without a billion dollar dillion press... quick change bushings makes stuff a lot faster but a progressive makes a round for just about every pull of the handle... I don't really like he way the turret head moves around so I would just stick with a bushing single stage if I could only have one press.

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Especially with the LnL bushings now for Rock Smasher

Lee's customer service has tanked now that Richard passed. They are rude and ignorant.

Yeah, look on gunbroker for it every now and then. I snagged 16lbs of 846 for $105 because no one else bid on it.

" Let me put some xyz powder in this abc jug and write abc with a magic marker".

No batch number, no lot, no nothing. Just "abc". You don't even store it correctly.

"Let me just put it on this wooden shelf, umm humm".