Need a knife

Example
>I am looking for a knife I can take in the woods. I will not be carving try sticks but I will do some light battoning and a little carving. Mostly I will cut ropes and perhaps some plastic and cardboard. I would like it to be capable for self defense but it doesn't have to look the part. I would like it to have built in glass breaking capability for automobile door windows.
Oh, ok. X knife fits those parameters and I have used it and like it.

Fallkniven a1 is the best survival knife, hands down

I wouldn't buy a knife that looks like a goddamn brick.
For innawoods take some traditional design, like Marttiini Lynx 131 or historical, like A&R NR-43 replica.

May I suggest Tac-Force's EMT Knife?

It's actually been pretty reliable on some of my calls. Comes with an Auto Glass Punch and a Strap Cutter than can double as improvised trauma shears.

Picked it up on Amazon for like $10 and has served me well over two years now. Pretty good balance, grip, and ya know if it's good enough for EMT work, good enough for your outdoors activities.

Attached: EMTKnife1.jpg (1100x935, 188K)

a good knife has:
>full tang
>scandi grind
>carbon steel
>comfortable grip
>guard

if it fits those, its good, everything else is garbage and marketing

I'd suggest Benchmade, but they cucked us real good so fuck them. That Gerber isn't bad if you can get it on sale. I've got one and have used it innawoods a few times. Nothing really noteworthy desu, and the sheath turned out to just be a meme. Feels like a slimed down Kabar I guess.

I have a Puma I like. Worked well for prepping firewood, but I'm laying in bed and don't feel like digging it out to find out what model.

>full tang
If we speak about full tang as if it's just a tang that goes all the way through, I could agree on this. But if we're talking about the sandwich grip kind of full tang, then no.
>Guard
No and no. There is no need for a knife to have a guard. People have been using guardless knives for centuries and not because they were too dumb and poor to add an additional piece of metal on.

>t. bought a shit knife and now has to justify it
embarrassing, really

>every teime someone objects me - he's justifying something
Nah.

yeah champ, my list is objectively correct and you should feel bad about your life and your poor decisions

>my list is objectively correct
Where is the mark of correctness then?

you bought a knife without a full tang or guard, you realized your mistake but instead of just manning up and accepting it, you're trying to justify your fuck up, childish

>Want to use it generally - i.e. going innawoods, breaking windows, cutting stuff.

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Those people that go hiking often, prefer to carry as little things as possible. What's the point in carrying a huge shiny piece of metal when a smaller blade can do the same job?

>when a smaller blade can do the same job

can it though? I do not know. it depends on what OP/the hiker intends to do. I doubt, on average, it can though. I'd rather carry a bigger knife and not need it than carry a mora companion and then need something more substanial. those few 100 grams don't really matter if you watch the weight elsewhere.

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youtu.be/sY7nZtxf9WA
youtu.be/QbffwaVO_E0

How do you keep up with the waiting for your knife being assembled?
I think that a 12 cm blade is enough for most of the tasks.

A 4-5-inch fixed-blade drop-point will do literally everything you need it to, other than retard shit like batonning wood.

It's the jack-of-all-trades knife design.

Just get a mora, kansbol or 2000, alot cheaper and will fill all your knife.needs

>full tang
You can by with less but it is a compromise. And skeletonized tangs are the worst.
>scandi grind
Bullshit. It is only good at one thing, carving wood. At every other task something else is better. Even wood carving others are just as good. Simplicity of sharpening is only an argument if it it a true scandi.
>carbon steel
? The fuck? What the fuck is this even supposed to mean? Do you mean 10xx?
Why? Why not 3v? Why not aus 8? Why not S30V? It really depends on who and how you plan to use it. 10xx are good, basic, cheap steels. If you are paying $100 near, for a factory high volume produced 10xx knife you better be getting some vaseline with that ass fucking.
>comfortable grip
? Jesus fucking christ kid.
>gaurd
A long fucking time ago a man walked into a meeting with some marine military guys about a knife he designed. They bitched about the lack of gaurd and he drove that motherfucker into an oak table without cutting himself. Gaurds are highly overrated, and often overdone.
>talking out your ass
Yes, yes you were.

man, if you need a dependable knife that will last you your whole life, you need a really good knife, like a Randal Made

>It is only good at one thing, carving wood.
Come on, you can do anything with it.
> What the fuck is this even supposed to mean?
Steel that contains no or small amount of chromium, too small to call it stainless.
>aus 8
Soft, doesn't cut as good as D2 or 1066
>3v? S30V?
Expensive.
>Gaurds are highly overrated, and often overdone
I agree

>I need this to fucking last me till I kick the bucket
no you don't, you stupid mallninja
the next time budk catalog gets dropped, you're going to be back again asking us to verify the value of your shitty expenditures
buy literally anything and go back to lurking

I do not like VG10 steel or honestly even COS, outside of the kitchen. Any Bark river in A2 or CPM3v will surpass the a1.

actually, what's a knife that does that? That's exactly my criteria.

Also, what's a self-defense knife that's concealable within dress clothes as well? no other purpose aside from personal defense in HtH range and quick concealability.

Cheapest Mora companion, next cheapest Mora Kansbol, next cheapest Gerber strongarm with like 2 hours on wetstones to fix its trash grind. After that you get into things like the Mora Garberg, and Benchmade Puukko 200. Some of those dont have a glassbreaker, but honestly dude when do you not have rocks around.

cool, so I already use one of the opinels as a daily to-do knife; I'll grab a couple of cheap Moras for hiking/hunting.

Zero tolerance has a lot of extremely thin extremely durable folders, but they are pricey, honestly the only cheap knife with good steel that wont print everywhere I have seen is the benchmade bugout.

Switchblade

I forgot the Mora robust. It is a very nive uprade over the companion for like 4 dollars if you plan to baton. My budget woods gear would just have 1 of each. Robust for batoning, and companion for camp work. These knives will outperform a 100 dollar esee.

Price isn't the problem, but, making sure I'm always armed is. Would you recco a folder vs. a fixed blade in a sheath?

Also, any of those zero tolerance knives you'd recommend or have any reviews of?

tough to get ahold of in my state. Honestly ,wouldn't even know where to get one.

Also, looks terrible if you're busted with one vs. a folder.

how are you so totally ignorant.
> buy a few cheap knives
> try some of your retarded ideas
> they don't work or kinda do
> learn
wow you're not dumb anymore.

So honeslty concealed fixedblades have always looked like mall ninja shit to me. So i dont really know if any are that good. For ZT knives, my current fave is the 0770CF
if I was going to have it on me at all times, I do occasionally carry a Boker Kwaikan which is a gentlemen's folder, but that will print like a motherfucker in jeans pockets. I also suggest the flipper instead of the thumb stud if you look at others.

well, I could try it with a cheap folder, but, some of those ZT knives are like 300 apiece. Buying one or two - sure.

Buying a ton only to find the one that works best and I like? No. that's out of my pricepoint.

Cool. I'll look into it - thanks.

How about one of those folding Extrema Ratios?

you dumb nigger, you don't even know if you like a fixed blade or folding.
you can find out so easily
> buy mora, buy pic related
> total, like $40

THEN you can spend retard money without being 100% tardy
understanding costs money but ignorance is priceless

> pic forgotten

Attached: KE-3880BW.jpg (800x337, 40K)

>roughing it in the woods is the same as riding around in a van

Tbf op is probably just going out in his backyard, but still

While you come off as an asshole, this kershaw isnt bad at all for the price, and you are right, buying a 300 dollar folder for you first is not a good idea. So not terrible advice.

the fucks at kershaw roped hinderer into the design process
think they were trying to reclaim revenue lost to the chinks who literally can't stop counterfeiting

Ya we have seen a lot of western knife brands, picking up there game lately because of cheap knockoffs.

you are a dick, but, I appreciate the help anyway.

welcome to k and fuck you

I hope you have to tongue Fienstein's wrinkly ass, and I appreciate it.

That's a great fuckin knife. The rubber texture is good, the blade is thick enough to pry or cut yourself out of a (modern) car with, the blade coating is nice ceramic, it had a glass breaker, and it's like fucking $50.

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tops fieldcraft
>inb4 price
ebay to the max
also upgrade the sheath to leather

tfw zt0562 with g10 and elmax was discontinued reee

how about the ZT 0452CF?

I might say spyderco tenacious or ontario RAT instead, not a fan of assisted opening, but otherwise yeah.

(or even something like a sanrenmu LAND 910 if you can find one)

>he drove that motherfucker into an oak table without cutting himself
im sure he did, with a dry grip and dry hand.

water, sweat, blood, cheeto grease can all compromise the grip on a knife. My dad lost half the function in his pinky while using a fillet knife to clean fish and getting fish slim all over. hand slipped right past and cut the tendon in his pinky.

guards are only useless if you don't plan on using the knife in an environment where you wont get shit on your hands that'll cause them to slip.

wrap that sucker with good para-cord and you one hell of a comfortable blade that will easily outlast you.

This is a clear sign of someone who has only recently got into the knife game and has learned a few buzzwords.

Terrible advice

esee 4 is the glock 19 of knives

What's the best knife for stabbing or cutting people
My friend was wondering

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What a fucking meme

Thats not a knife

>Everything else is garbage and marketing
Not really. It's all about what you want to do with your knife.
>Full tang
A nice feature to have, but not always necessary.
>Scandi grind
God-tier for woodcraft/bushcraft, but try gutting/boning out a deer and you'll quickly find out how fragile and chip prone scandis are when they contact hard materials such as bone. Full flat grind is master race for a versatile blade.
>Carbon steel
Usually easier to sharpen for beginners, but there are lots of modern stainless and tool steel alloys that are superior to carbon in many aspects. e.g. O1, A2, 3V, S30V, D2, the list goes on.
>Comfortable grip
True. Try using an unergonomic grip for extended periods and your hand will feel it.
>Guard
Highly situational and more of a personal preference thing.

>how fragile and chip prone scandis are

Now I'm not a big fan of scandi grinds, I much prefer zero convex and convex/"v" beveled flat or high saber grinds. However that statement of yours is completely wrong. A Scandi grind sucks for skinning and other tasks where one has to cut through a medium, but not because the edge is more or less prone to chipping or denting. The apex strength is roughly the same for any grind if it has a similar apex angle. Chipping and denting is much more of a property of the steel and heat treatment.

Attached: Heavily damaged Shun.jpg (2048x1536, 384K)

OP, I have one attached to my belt, its one of the better knives ive ever owned DESU.

It comes in a really great sheath that can be mounted to anything basically.

As for the knife, its fantastic, its a high quality rubber grip that has resisted everything ive put it through.

The edge holds well and the thing is MEATY as fuck. I have no concerns whatsoever about this blade, id highly recommend one and even if you replace it with a higher quality one, this thing is timeless.

If you wanna use it to hack down wood, no issues. If you wanna hammer through windows, this things a borderline rail spike with a sharp side. Hope that helps, but if youre fretting over ~50$, im not sure what to say. Cant do better for that price or even a price above it.

It's not a bad knife, but my one issue with it is the fact that the edge doesn't continue until the end of the bevel, which is the area where you will be using the most for any kind of push cutting because you'll be able to get the most leverage. There's really no reason for it to be this way other than Gerber's incompetence.

>God-tier for woodcraft/bushcraft,
Why? I have a lot of Scandi knives. I'd like you to explain what makes it superior to any other grind.
>but try gutting/boning out a deer and you'll quickly find out how fragile and chip prone scandis are when they contact hard materials such as bone.
Bone is a lot softer before it is cooked. It also won't hurt steel either way. Quality kitchen and butcher's knives are infinitely more fragile than any Scandi grind knife on the market, and they won't chip on bone. Nothing inside an animal should damage a knife. I mean, except maybe bezoars or some shit, but if you're hitting those I have news for you: cutting the stomach open is generally not a recommended part of gutting an animal. This is very misinformed advice at best. You're on the right track, but for the wrong reasons.

>Full flat grind is master race for a versatile blade
For most things, yes. If you're a retard who refuses to use a knife as a knife and wants it to be a crowbar, it can be a bit fragile. It is definitely the superior choice for slicing/cutting.

Bahco is also exporting to the US now.

Gerber has been shit for a while but recently their high end stuff has been pretty good and the strong arm is no exception.

i jus got into knives and my first buy was a tac force. surprisingly good knife, best 14bucks i ever spent.

>Nigger I need this to fucking last me till I kick the bucket
Lmao
It's a tool
If it breaks, replace it

Speaking of the knives,which are the affordable navajas out there?
>steel, brass and horn on the handle, no wood or aluminum
>13-15 cm blade
>ratchet lock
>price

Holy shit that thing is cringy garbage

I don't know why you would discount stainless all together, especially for a woods knife. Carbon steel needs alot more care and all you're getting for it is slightly cheaper.

You know, before spending 80 posts uselessly arguing, it would be much more useful to think with more precision about the use case for the knife, and let that dictate design, blade geometry and steel choice.

Because right tool for 'innawoods' depends on whether you mean a sharpened pry bar thar can be batonned and otherwise abused, or you want something practical for hunting, wood cutting, food prep, and general chores.

If you want a knife good for general outdoor use including hunting, wood carving, food prep, etc then a 4-5" blade that is 3/32" to 1/8" at the spine, with a a full flat grind, a convex or a Scandinavian (if wood carving heavily predominates you use case) with a hand filling handle that can be used in a variety of grips comfortably.

As for steel, your choice should depend on how much corrosion resistance you need, and now much push cutting (carving wood, food prep) vs slicing through abrasive materials (cleaning game) you are going to be doing.

If you are going to be cleaning a lot of game, 3V is a good choice because it sacrifices comparatively little toughness for the wear resistance it has.

If you are going to be doing other stuff mostly and don't need total corrosion resistance, A2 will have better toughness and edge stability (ability for the edge to resist wearing by microscopically chipping in use, this improves edge retention in push cutting).

If you need high corrosion resistance but do muh more push cutting than game cleaning, consider AEB-L or LC200n which offer rust resistance without sacrificing toughness, at the cost of low wear resistance.

10xx steels are fine if you are budget constrained and don't need a lot of corrosion resistance, but I'd rather choose a steel with fewer tradeoffs for innawoods use it I had the budget.

Attached: Flat-Grind-VS-Scandi-Grind.jpg (640x394, 222K)

It’s no meme. It’s the ultimate fighting knife.

>Carbon steel needs alot more
Just wipe it with dry fabric and that's it.

That's why they decided to redesign it. For several times.

So what?

The Glock has been through 5 revisions but would you say it’s not perfection? Didn’t think so.

>So what?
It's not ultimate if it has downsides and has to be re-improved or simplified for the needs of wartime production.

So basically no weapon that has ever existed fits into your arbitrary description of "ultimate"?

Exactly. Perfection knows no limits

No knife fag

I just don't bother with keeping the mint look.

You should talk anymore.

>general outdoor use including hunting, wood carving, food prep, etc then a 4-5" blade that is 3/32" to 1/8" at the spine, with a a full flat grind, a convex or a Scandinavian
You just described a paring knife in the kitchen and a light carving knife in the woods. That is not the best all around design for in the woods. Or anywhere.
>4-5" blade
Nope. You will be left wanting in many tasks. Food processing especially. As well as any heavy duty tasks.
>3/32" to 1/8"
Right around 1/8" is the butter zone for me. A good saber grind can make a thick knife feel a lot thinner though.
>convex or a Scandinavian
Scandinavian is not a do all. It is a carving grind. It leaves a lot to he desired elsewhere. Convex on the other hand done well is very nice. It is the natural state if the freehand sharpened blade.
>knife steel
10xx is fine. It's also dirt fucking cheap. I mean crazy cheap in bulk. So $100 for a mass production 10xx knife is crazy.

You lost me at batoning.
Buy a hatchet...

I like mine, it's a good size and can take some abuse. Good price too. Esee also makes some nice ones that aren't too expensive, can't go wrong either way in my opinion.

Hey fuck you, batonning is the only thing i actually use a knife for
>woodstove
>in garage
>concrete floor
>split as needed smallish logs i buy because im not chopping my damn trees down.
Other than that i use a box cutter.

Your reply would have actually been much more useful if you had taken the time to explain your reasoning and what you think would work better rather than just making a bunch of assertions.

Pointing out retarded claims was my goal.
>achieved
You want advice?
>what specifically are you going to do with the knife and I will tell you specifically from my experience what knife would work well for you.
>specifically would be something to cling to here.

Comprehension is lacking around here.