Handgun General - /hg/ - #270

Decocker or manual safety on a Cz75?

decocker for CC, safety for everything else

not for $1000 un less that tag says 499

Depends on whether you prefer cocked-and-locked or DA for carry.

I would personally say that the safety placement on CZ75s and variants makes it better to have the manual safety, and since the hammer has a "half-cock" safety notch, decocking it with a trigger pull isn't unreasonable

>glock 17 600$
>RMR 300$
>somehow adds up to 1,000$
You'd be better off buying a new glock and adding the RMR yourself.

Also glocks' ergonomics are shit.

Got links for that m9 setup? Specifically the grips and the frame?

Looking more closely the compensator is attached to the stock frame. I thought it was one piece at first glance. Is a gunsmith needed for something like that?

What is the best little .32acp pistol for the money? I want something small to pocket carry when for whatever reason I can’t carry my usual ccw, and I’ve got about 200 rounds of .32 sitting in an ammo can.

Objective measures of progress.

Anybody know some good par times for 10 rounds in the black on a B-8 at 7, 15, and 25 yards? My understanding is 10y should be 10s for an intermediate level, but what about the other ranges?

Thanks for the price check.

Just finished the cerakote on mine. Only thing left is the rmr. Anyone have a dual illumination? I like the idea and rare washout doesn't bother me with co witness buis

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Good buy user. Great gun, I bought one when Bud's had them. Nice features, but not so nice I don't want to beat on it. The only thing it's missing out of the box is a steel guide rod.

Mine has a wonky lump on one side of the dust cover for some reason, I guess the guy machining the frames at the new Tennessee factory didn't know what he was doing yet when mine got assembled. Purely cosmetic and only on the outside, like there's something underneath the finish. Very weird, but it shoots great.

Ew

My brother wants to become has guns but wants a metal 45 pistol that isn't a 1911. Any recommendations? He seems caught up on the whole muh stoppin powah thing.
I was gonna reccomend Tyne FNX 45T as that's what I have but is there any offer recommendations?

What's a reasonable price to pay for a Shield these days? The lowest I'm seeing a shield for retail is $250 and the lowest for a $2.0 is about $340, worth it to go for the 2.0?

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A sarsilmaz k2 is a nice option, good cheap double stack mag steel frame, but very little aftermarket stuff. Cz 97 b is more expensive and a bit more accurate.

Sig P220 or P227 are nice if it has to be a metal frame.

Sar k2 45

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Cz 97 b

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Blued 97B is no longer available from the factory.
Wood grips are not factory available either.

That is a better quality gun than one made in 2019

Why not get the LTT?
It’s a better gun

The rail on newer 92 series ruins the pistol for a lot of people, myself included. Its worth arguing about it if you don't understand but you're probably right about the ltt being the better choice on paper.

**its not worth arguing about**

Steel frame 45 that isn't 1911?

EAA's offerings (includes SAR), multiple brands of CZ clones in 45 with steel frame

For american made:
S&W 4500 series
Ruger P90

where the fuck are you getting an rmr for only 3 hundies, but shelling out 6 for a mos glock

I'll throw my hat in on this, as long as you don't mind buying Turk or find one used.
I think they look neat, and they shoot pretty nicely. Not as high quality as a CZ 97 but way cheaper, and you get snowflake points for it too.

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Thank you all for the reccomendations

>tfw kinda want M&P9 2.0 Compact
Anybody here have experience with it? How does it compare to the Glock 19?

it's a great gun, better sights, grip angle, trigger, and texture than a glock 19. softer shooting too.

I am shopping around online..
Will offer them $800 and see if they bite.
Would $900 total for the package be decent?

Seriously, it looks unfired by the owner.
They close in 20 minutes

There are much better guns for the price.

Don’t even consider a Glock unless it’s a polymer80

Yea

They're made in Philippines so don't pay a premium but if they're anything like the other flip 1911s they're good quality at a good price.

Seems like a silly reason to buy a .32, you can fit a 9mm or .380 in your pocket too.

But best for the money, depends on the money.
best for $150 Lelkek P32
best for $200 cz50 or cz70
best for $300 Beretta 84/B/BB (not pocket sized but something has to go here)
best for $400 Seecamp LWS-32
best for $500 Walther PP
best for $600 why are you spending $600 on a .32

Hey that looks pretty good. What magwell is that? Looks like it doesn't stick out much so what's it do?

I have some dual illum RMRs, I like them a lot. If this is just a range toy you probably won't get the dot to wash out even shooting from shade into sun, but you probably will get too much light more often, which can be solved with a piece of electrical tape over part of the fiber optic collector.

Buy a used one, you can find them for $250, there's no reason to buy a new one because the tritium is so dim you'll have trouble seeing it even on new ones anyway.

how do you carry a sa/da gun with a deckocker safety? i'd carry condition 1 if it was possible

should i leave safety off or keep it on?

The rmr was not installed correctly. The plate bulging in the rear means he didn't file the screws that bolt it to the plate. Eventually the plate will break. I found this out because it happened to me. You need to remove up to .05-.1" depending on the plate used. So if you do get it, uninstall the rmr and do it right.

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Ditching the glock and joining the fully cocked life.

What should I get boys?
> VP9
> PPQ m2
> CZ P10c (gen 2?)

This is dumb. Why doesn't Glock just include screws that are proper size for RMR? I mean it's only one of the most common choices for handgun RDS that there is.

Because the whole point of the MOS setup is to milk stupid customers for as much money as humanly possible by charging $150-200 more for a pistol that got $5 worth of extra machining done to it.

Same reason they didn't mill it so the RMR didn't need an adapter plate but everything else did, or why they didn't mill it to the Vortex/Leupold/Sig/Burris/Docter/C-more/Jpoint spec since that covers 95% of all microdots.

Thanks for pointing that out.
I will use it to negotiate.

$850 is the price.... It felt better than some of the Colts in the display case.
They had a used Stainless Kimber also but I felt like it was overpriced at $799.
$599 would be better or maybe not even then.

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PPQ
M1

The Glock plate screws are fine. It's the screws that come with the site are the wrong length.

It's darker than I thought it'd be. The camera flash brightens it more than ambient but it's closer to black than I'd have expected from photos.

Also the serial numbers on the slide and barrel don't match the one on the frame.

Safety off, the DA is the safety

Yeah $850 seems like a bit too much. The front strap isn't even checkered and that price gap is too big just for the gimmick of a longer slide.

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>that serial

She's a real beaut.

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Are there any actual Samurai Edge builds? all I am finding is airshit.

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Better SHTF sidearm?

Sig P320 or Glock 17

Also would a WML then be a hindrance or necessity if you already running a light on your AR?

Looking to get my first gun soon. Unfortunately, I live in (((California))) so my options are limited.

I'm debating whether I should go with the Rock Island GI Compact or the Kimber Ultra Carry II. Having actually fired the Kimber I have to say that it feels great to shoot and it does have weight and length over the Rock Island, but it's twice the price. The Rock Island I think would be mostly sufficient except that down the road I'm pretty sure I'd end up replacing the GI sights on it, in which case I feel like I may as well go with the Kimber now to save myself some headache later.

Reliability is a huge concern also because I do plan on getting my CCW eventually. I haven't found anything particularly incriminating on either gun just yet but if there's any data/anecdotes out there on how well these guns perform in a concealed carry capacity I'd like to see it.

Extractor pin staking looks good, typical of Italian models. No exposed metal trenches a la US M9's.

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There is!

Here's mine, for instance.

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Pure sex

No peening at the rear of the slide rails which was a concern I saw raised about Italian M9A3s

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Thanks!

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> No exposed metal trenches
What?

My SoiZ

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So did Beretta do a run or is it custom?

Sometimes they stake that extractor pin too much and go into the bare metal.

Small 1911 worst 1911, it’s full size or go home if you don’t want to replacing the springs every 1,000 rounds, look at Citadel’s offerings if you want a more modern 1911 that’s still cheap.

My Citadel been near perfect reliability wise, and a buddy just had to tune his extractor when he got his. Worth the money.

this is correct
had to file down the screw for my romeo one about 2 tenths of a inch

The inside of the dust cover is also properly symmetrically machined, which was another concern I saw with M9A3s, where only one half had a finishing cut, leaving extra metal on one side which would rub the finish off the slide after awhile.

Also visible is the anodizing under the painted frame, as opposed to the fully coated slide.

The American M9A3 extractors are staked much more violently than Italian ones, leaving marks about 2-3 times as big as this one and much deeper, sometimes showing bare metal.

ty!

Serial is cheated for tinfoil purposes tho

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How many shekels guesstimate from start to finish? $1,200?

Tanks senpai

Anodizing visible through paint on frame; the frames of the 4 new M9A3 colors are NOT color anodized but are painted/cerakoted. These appear to be wear spots, I hope the paint isn't actually as weak as this makes it seem.

Interestingly also, this frame appears to be anodized FDE like a standard M9A3.

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>So did Beretta do a run

I wish. Probably would have been cheaper, haha. No, I put it together. Bar-sto MT barrel, engravings, DS grips, and upgraded Wolff internal parts. The frame is a 92F frame and the brig slide is from a Brigadier 92.

The whole build ended up costing me close to $2000, but that's because I had to buy two guns to get the correct frame and slide. I ended up having a leftover gun so I traded for an HK VP70z. So if you subtract the going price of the VP70 then, the actual price of the gun is around $1500-$1600.

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Wow, yeah. That's unusual. I hope the paint isn't that weak, either.

jesus that's retarded

So did you have to have an engraver fill in whatever slide markings were on the brig and then re-engrave the stars?

No gunsmith necessary, it's basically just clamped to an extended recoil spring guide rod that you can innstal yourself. There are videos of it on Youtube, just search for "Beretta SGS compensator install".

Minor interesting: Normally Italian Berettas have spring pins holding in the hammer spring cup requiring a hammer and punch to remove, and American Berettas have dogbone cup retention which pops out when the hammer spring cup is compressed. I was under the impression that ALL M9A3s had spring pin retention for hardiness.

This Italian M9A3 has a dogbone for easy removal. It also has scallops around the lanyard loop for easier acces, which I also though M9A3s lacked as pictures I'd seen are all flat here.

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Either are mechanically fine, go with the one you shoot better. You should have a light on anything you expect to be used vs. people.

Yeah, shipping and other nickels and dimes add up. Plus gunsmithing costs for installing the barrel.

Basically, yeah. They did that, the new engravings (including the front serrations), and recoated it. That's about a $400 job.

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>no exposed metal trenches
This looks like exposed metal to me

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I was expecting to find a plastic trigger as I prefer them but this one is steel. The guide rod and hammer spring cup are plastic though, which I like.

Also the barrel has an O ring to help retain the thread protector, and comes with 3 spares.

Also you can see more of the FDE anodizing inside the frame. In comparison to the slide which is completely covered inside and out, the frame really seems lazily painted. I guess it doesn't need to be, the anodizing is the protection for the frame where the paint/parkerizing combo is the protection for the slide.

It may well be, I can't really see that with my eyes. But I was contrasting it with the U.S. M9A3s which really do show a lot of metal there. I'm happy with the amount this one shows.

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>wants a metal 45 pistol that isn't a 1911
Tell your brother he's a faggot.

Again, California is severely limiting my options. If I do decide to go full size I'll probably get the Rock Island Match Pro that's on the roster and call it a day. I am a pretty tall guy so maybe carrying a full size 1911 wouldn't be much of an issue.

Now that is a sleek looking gun.
Thanks for posting.

This however does bug my autism. The barrel is off-center.

I know this is common in Berettas and doesn't affect anything but it's still annoying. I don't think it's rubbing the slide, but it's reeeeealllly close and would probably bump uglies under recoil.

Oh well. The dust cover is properly machined, the externally visible parts of the frame are painted, the slide looks really well made and finished and the gun feels excellent. I'm excited to shoot it!

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what about the hammer getting partially pulled back or banged up agaisnt something enough to fire the round?

That's the firing pin safety's job to prevent. Without a finger (or something) actually pulling the trigger the last 1/10th of an inch to disengage the firing pin safety, even cocking and dropping the hammer shouldn't be able to set off a round.

Virtually every pistol designed after 1970, and most of the ones before that, have firing pin safeties that are disengaged only by trigger movement.

I've got my M9A3 G model in black coming in early next week. I hope mine doesn't have any issues but I picked it up for $720 bones + shipping so I'm happy.

Hudson H9's $720 btw lol
GIT 'EM WHILE THEY'RE HOT
I MEAN NOT

gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/HUD001

I don't think any of the M9A3 "issues" if you could call them that affect function in any way, they're just cosmetic. Barrel misaligned, overzealous extractor pin staking, chipped anodizing, asymmetrical dust cover machining, peened slide rails at the rear, odd color variations, etc.

You're gonna be happy I'm sure, whether yours has little niggles or not. The guns are so smooth and comfy and nice shooting that it really doesn't matter. Also the black ones if I'm not mistaken are Beretta's forte, that is the slides are typical black brunitron with no finish issues and the frames are typical black anodizing with no finish issues so the only things you could look out for, if you even care, are staking, mild peening, asymmetrical machining, wonky barrel crowns and an off-center barrel. Or delete all of this from your memory so you don't even notice the flaws.

That's hot though, this gray one is so close to black I almost wish I just got black for a little less money. Or stepped laterally and got one of the OD ones.

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I want a CZ 75 version of the Samurai Edge.

That would be a curious thing indeed and I certainly wouldn't stop you from doing it!

now why do you prefer those parts to be plastic?

Same l’d like to know about that too

here is my daily carry with my sig romeo 1

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Who makes the premier polymer striker fired midsize? Considering the 509 compact and Glock 19
Price is no issue

HK PPQ

M&P 2.0C or CZ P10c

Because he enjoys when the plastic guide rod shreds itself and jams the gun.

Shops racing to unload em before it's too late, dealer cost on them is still around 725.

>Shops racing to unload em before it's too late
What happened?

Post your Mark 23s already!

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