I'm going innawoods for a while to try to live out of a cabin that my uncle gave me. I need to pick a knife, but I don't know too much about knives, and my budget is pretty limited. Been looking at this: amazon.com
If my thinking is correct, I should be maximizing for corrosion resistance and hardness. Any suggestions?
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Corrosion resistance isn't as necessary as people think. If you maintain your blades, which you should be doing, it doesn't matter much. Prioritize toughness and ease of sharpening and learn how to maintain that edge.
Mora is a great belt knife and is pretty much considered the single best cost to quality ratio knife you can get. That being said, if you get a Mora and want to still do some harder wood working you'll also need a hatchet to go with it, Fisker is considering the best low budget option there.
If you want to be able to do harder wood work with your knife, you're gonna need a much beefier knife, absolute minimum of 6" and full tang, quality knives in this category go for larger price points, Esee and Ontario have good knives like this floating at a little over $100, the buck 119 isn't bad either at around $70, Cold Steel gets a reputation for not being great because of their meme knives and swords being swung at a rack of ribs by a fat dude but their higher end knives are actually pretty good.
Mora knives are great and are actually few of the legit knives you can get at that price. You'd be just as well served with a $15 Mora IMO though. You could also look at Condor knives for a bit more but they may be a bit rough around the edges due to their hand made quality.
>If my thinking is correct, I should be maximizing for corrosion resistance
Not really a concern. Even if your knife rusts completely you can still sharpen it and it will last for five years. but it won't rust completely or at all because you can just wipe is off on your pants after you use it, maybe spread some veggie oil or spam grease on it to prevent rust, and a rag or steel wool to remove any rust that forms. Rust resistance is not really a concern for most blades that are not left in a salt water fishing box for 8 months a year. Non stainless knives generally get sharper and stay sharper with use so I prefer them over the stainless type knives.
Get the original wood handled mora because it is activity appropriate. Plastic handles stainless moras are more for people who shop at REI and drive a subaru (I can say that because I shop at REI).
At first I thought you knew what your were talking about then you said esee, A mora has better steel than any esee, and robust or bushcraft are far tougher knives. Hidden tangs can be just as strong as full tang. O and if he really was going to spend 100 dollars, a mora garberg could literally cut through and esee or and ontario and then still be more useful.
tldr for OP, my the kansbol, or buy a companion and a robust, as a set. O and a hatchet.
I have multiple types of Moras. 1 in 72 hour bag, 1 in bug out bag, 1 in hiking bag, 1 in glove compartment, 1 in garage and 1 in kitchen. They are excellent knives per price point.
Mora's are great,
if you can afford it, a buck knife is always nice.
Well I have no self control, no OP but just bought this combo for $30 delivered from amazon , 15 for the knife 15 for the sheath.
Mora no 1
I have a pile of knives and am kinda drunk on account of st paddys day. Post a burner email op
Any sparkies passing through have any experience with Klein brand pocket knives?
not op but if youd like to send one to canada i would be happy!
OP here, I appreciate the offer but I've got some giftcards that need spending so I'm sure someone else would make better use of your generosity, such as
Enjoy cutting your fingers when you stab anything with that shitty ass round peg grip
There is bettter but mora for
The price is basically unbeatable. It cuts, its strong and its cheap. Beat it up and get a new one
>my budget is pretty limited
How limited?
>If my thinking is correct, I should be maximizing for corrosion resistance and hardness.
Not really. Harder knives are more likely to chip, slower to sharpen, and in general harder to keep in working shape under regular bushcraft type of user. No super steels are needed.
Oh look, it's the retarded ''I picked the shittiest grip possible to cut myself'' finnaboo. What's up, captain autismo ??
I see two votes for the Buck 119. I'd like to put forward the Buck 124, heavier blade and the tang is the full width of the handle.
Mine is a 120, I would not mind a 119 though.
I had a Klein pocket knife in the 1980s. Was great.
My mistake. The 119 and the 120 have the same blade profile. Just different lengths. I really like my 124, but have been thinking about getting the 120. Clip points are fuckin sweet.
if youre the kind of person thats really into high quality knives and are used to expensive blades you wont like it.
but if your an average guy whose used to walmart cheapo knives and wants an upgrade youll like it
the channels for stripping on the spine are a pain in the ass to use though
also if you want a nicer knife for not too much more get a spyderco tenacious
Moras are a meme for a reason. My mora companion HD has been batonned, beaten, lost in the woods, etc, for 5 years. Sharpened so many times a visible recurve is starting to form near the base. You don't "need" anything more and honestly in 9/10 situations I'd suggest someone buying a mora and learning the skills before they invest in anything more. That being said, moras are not the end all be all. Bark river, fallkniven, EnZo, Lionsteel, etc, make far more expensive and far better knives. Look up the brands and buy whichever design tickles your fancy. I'd kill for a lionsteel m4 in vanax superclean.
These two are assholes, but technically correct. Even with my mora companion my hand slipped due to sweat from cutting wood with an axe in the summer, causing my pinkie to slide down the entire blade cutting it to the bone. Don't stab with it, but you shouldn't need to ever stab anyway as it's a wood and outdoors knife.
>You'd be just as well served with a $15 Mora IMO though.
this. MORA Companion is all you'll need for "around the cabin" work. if you take the time to file a 90° section on the spine it will even work with a firesteel. though, the point of the MC has a few mills of that already so in a pinch you can work a firesteel with it too. keep a few oily patches in the sheath and you can even clean the blade after use.
There are people here who are more educated on fixed blades than I, so I’ll let them tell you
HOWEVER
A good folder is essential. Depending on your budget:
Spyderco paramilitary 2 - ~$120
Benchmade mini griptillian - ~$80
Ontario RAT 1 or 2 (size) - ~$30
The PM2 suggestion depends on what you're using it for. I'd suggest a delica in zdp-189 with frn handles because jesus fuck what a steal that is. Too hard and chippy for outdoors use though.
>a mora garberg could literally cut through and esee or and ontario
You're full of shit, clearly dont know what you're talking about. I love my Garberg, I know it wouldn't break my esee 5, probably not even my 6 either.
No joke probably Mora, it's cheaper than the tunturijew puukkos or Varusteleka-commie jääkäripuukkos, yet it has all the good features from classic Finnish design
If it doesn't have a perfectly flat and big frontal hand guard it's a shit knife for both defense and bushcraft. Retards who can't comprehend that sweat/blood make things slippery deserve all the pain they can get.
No? The majority of knives I can think of like the puukko and the seax used for hundreds upon hundreds of years don't have anything like that. All you need to do just not stab anyone with anything.
Stab anything, rather.
get a fackin kukri m8
Tell me. Other than your own greed, why should I pick you? OPs story touched me, stirred something in me. His uncle gave him a cabin and he wants to live off the land. And you?
>knives made by medieval retards don't have hand guards
>modern knives do
Hurr durr cars didn't have safety belts for decades and they didn't fall out of fashion why do we even need those hurr.
You're a moron, also what's the point of having a knife for defense if you're afraid to stab someone ?
What knives user? I'm drunk too and tempted to buy one even though I really know I shouldn't.
Just my greed that's it.
Just a bum to most people. No sad story for you
I agree. What do you think is the best stabbing knife out there? I'm looking for something under $149 that can stand up to repeated stabbing frenzies. I'm looking for stabbing ergonomics and blade strength. I need it to be able to stand up to repeated full force skull strikes at potentially weird angles.
>knives made by medieval retards
>medieval retards
>people who's lives literally depended on being able to work with wood, repair, and camp.
Okay, yeah. You were close at getting me but good job that's a bit too obvious.
I dunno, I'm not into self defense stuff. All I know is that the few times I've stabbed something with my mora my hands were sweaty and it slipped, causing serious injury.
In all seriousness OP, if it's for self defense this guy is right despite his poor attempt at b8. Don't stab into shit unless you have a guard or your hands are dry.
If you're the kind of tard that cuts up his finger because his knife doesn't have a hand guard, you're better off without one
> also pic slightly related, just for you, puukko with a sort of hand guard
K-bar 's are or stabbing.
They make stainless moras.
>if their lives depended on cutting wood that means they obviously made the best design for a wood working knife
Wrong, your logic is shit, you're just being obnoxiously retarded right now.
>using a superior knife design
>tard
Putting a proper hand guard on your knife has no drawbacks and adds a massive advantage when using it. You're simply using an inferior design so you can larp like a faggot. There's nothing more to it.
This is a bushcrafting knife thread, not self-defense/combat.
Just ignore him, he's one of those types. The more you give him (you)s the more fun he's having. No matter what you say he'll never be convinced because I doubt he seriously believes what he's saying anyway.
>put hand guard on knife
>makes it better because you're less likely to cut yourself
>I doubt he seriously believes this
I doubt you're retarded enough to not comprehend this. You're being a luddite on purpose just so you can be a hipster.
>Best budget innawoods knife
That my friend is the million dollar question, and one that has inspired many a spirited conversation around a fire.
>corrosion resistance. You nailed it. Even a "stainless" knife can rust. So a small amount of corrosion resistance will go a long way.
>live out of a cabin my uncle gave me
Congratulations. I lived in a cabin on the mountain for a while when I was young. It was an experience I would not trade for the world.
>mora
Eh. Meh. You can do better. The 2000 is in that same ballpark and it's not bad either but you can do better thwn a more
>you need a gaurd
Bullshit. That's the calling sound of a jackass that doesn't pay attention and then blames the tool
>but mah slimy cold..
Shut the fuck up. Ya tarded.
>back to the OP.
You are going to want something with some corrosion resistance. Being at a cabin you got shit to do, you want low maintenance. You are going to find yourself in the elements doing tasks whith your knife on.
>you left out some deets
I can not help you with so little info.
Do you have kitchen knives? Do you have a hatchet or axe? A saw? Do you have a folder?
>I'll be the one that says it
Mora and the scandi grind are carvers knives. All these bushcraft guys cut try sticks and figure 4 traps then slice a sausage.
>you are not a bushcraft fag.
Living at a cabin is awesome. But you will find it is work. And some of that work will involve your knife.
If I was you I would be looking for a camp style knife.
Here are some options I would trust for a long term time at the cabin that hit under the $100 mark
>50 cold steel srk
This motherfucker won't quit on you
>esee izula 1+2
While I am the most outspoken against Esee and Becker style knives here lies the exception to the rule. It is a little too thick. The paint is a little too much. The temper is perhaps a little too soft. BUT with the bolt on handles or a paracord wrap it has a strange advantage. It is basically a fixed blade pocket knife.
TBC
>izula
It is a small knife that tackles larger tasks well.
So while it wouldn't be my first choice its flexibility makes it indeed a choice.
>kabar mark 1
Rat tang and leather washers I know. But a capable all around little knife this is. Leaves a little to be desired in the corrosion resistance and maintenance department, but I have used leather washer handles extensively in the field. They do just fine. It doesn't hurt that it looks good as well
>reel steel d2 bushcraft
(Pic related)
Shhhhhh. These are the best kept secret in bushcraft. Shape and use wise this is a $300 bushcraft knife without the name brand and made from cheaper materials. D2 is no slouch.
>buck 119
Not a horrible choice
>air force survival knife
Like Ontario. They used to use these at SERE school until they got retarded and started doing batonny chop, chop in the cold without warming up the blade and the tang with body heat first. So, not a bad choice.
>ka bar 1236 Bowie
This one speaks for itself.
>kabar warthog
If your use varies a little more this is a decent choice
>Gerber Freeman
Here is a dirt cheap choice that feels good in the hand.
>Marbles bolo cleaver.
For 10 dollars this is the best deal on the list. And if you do a lot of kitchen prep probably one of the better choices.
>long story short
The real steel if you need that bushcraft style, the srk if you just want to beat the ever living shit out of your knife and want it to survive or the mark 1 or the 1276 if you want that leather comfort handle and don't mind the stick tang. There are many more choices, but none of them are Esee, Becker or mora.
Which cold steel SRK, the one with aus8 is trash, It will have terrible edge retention, and is much weaker than mora's sandvik steel, if its the laminated vg10 one the edge retention is great, but then the blade is in danger of chipping all the time. If its the CPM3v one, then you are in the same price range, as a benchmade puukko, and the mora garberg which for outside work is better. The SRK is a survival and combat knife. It isnt really designed for hanging out in the woods forever with.
If you decide you can go just over the hundred dollar mark this opens you up to a much, much better selection.
SRK sk5 aus 8 both are just fine. There is nothing wrong with aus 8. It is very compatible to 10xx steels in edge retention and ease of sharpening with the added benefit of corrosion resistance.
>It isnt really designed for hanging out in the woods forever with.
Yeah buddy I'm really enjoying telling you this, it literally fucking was. SRK, Survival, Rescue, Knife.
>mora
Get the fuck out of here with that shit. I own fucking at least 20 moras. I've had a #1 carbon for fucking ever. They all suffer the same issue. Scandi grind. That instantly makes the knife a large comprise.
>as soon as you realize that in the real world carving funny looking sticks is not a daily task then you will also realize a scandi grind is not the best choice for a belt knife.
Here is a test of the srk. I believe this is the Aus 8 version.
youtu.be
So you are clearly retarded if you think aus8 being comparible to 10xx steels is a good thing, outside the kitchen those are shit steels.
Also if you are so set on the scandi grind being shit then replace it with a scandivex, that takes like an hour to do well. Also most of these knives you are mentioning have a super shit V edge, After a convex grind scandi is king.
Why would you use 10xx steel in kitchen knives?
>convex
Is the natural state of any knife sharpened free hand. All those "shit v edge" knives can feather stick and carve just fine with the added benefit of not being a limiting scandi.
>scandi grinds are for carving wood. Knives are asked to do much more than that.
>aus 8
Is a good budget stainless. Both the SRK and the rat 1 folding knife used it. Both are known for being hard use, low maintenance knives that are easy on the wallet.
Speaking of the rat 1 (pic related) if you wanted a folder that can do the chores of a fixed blade (not whacking on it with a stick) on a budget this is the knife.
>12c27 is better than 1095
Yeah no
A v edge is trash for cutting carving, edge retention and pretty much everything else. And on cheap knives isnt how it comes. A scandi grind is excellent for would and pervectly strong for chopping and other tasks. It isnt as strong as a convex. But it has nowhere near the weaknesses of a v edge, which is only used because its cheap for a robot.
I assume when you say 10xx steel, you are talking about steels like 1065 carbon, which can be hardened well past 60hrc, which makes it good for use in kitchen knives. But its brittle and easily rusts, making it poor for outdoors use. Like why esee knives suck. And its brethren from the same time period also suck outside the kitchen. Even s30v which by today's standards is mediocre would be better.
1095 is terrible steel, rusts easy. doesnt form carbides well, which makes its edge retention trash.
Aus8 was a good steel 50 years ago, its edge retention like 1095 is trash, its only really used anymore in dive knives because it has loads of chromium for rust resistance. BDZ1, or s30v are better in every way, and come in knives at the same price points as the SRK in aus8
You are talking out your ass.
Just for the record 10xx steels are just fine. Esee and Becker do not suck because they use 1095. They suck because they use thick 1095 and paint it with thick nasty paint. They suck because of the handle material, fastening choices, grind angels, sheath material all combined at the price point is absolutely an insult to the intelligence of the people whom they wish to sell knives.
As seen in the video poster above your complaints about AUS 8 are without merit. A S30V knife would have chipped out all over the place in that test. The same for 10xx steels. Absolutely they rust. They require maintenance. A little mineral oil goes a long way.
As far as your beloved scandi grind and your hate for the "v" grind. You exposed your lack of experience and education on the subject. You haven't a clue.
Honestly unless you really need to get fancy, spend 15 bucks on a mora like everyone has said and call it a day. At the end of the day you can get any variety and size of knife, but ultimately you just need a decent trusty, handheld cutting tool. Get a hatchet or camp saw for crazy shit, the mora should do everything else.
I have three mora knives innawoods.
One for situations where I fear the knife may be damaged, one for delicate work.
and one I keep tucked away in my backpack, because I have a tendency to be a complete fuck up and loose my knives.
I go through knives by loosing them at least once a year. Because Moras can be bought with pocket change, its the perfect option for me.
>A S30V knife would have chipped out all over the place in that test.
Wrong. Literal meme tier understanding of metallurgy and steel. No better than 60 year ol fudds saying "yup only need a car-bone steel knife, no chinese stuff here!".
god tier
I have a small dick
>hurrr muh random shitty northern yuroshit knives hurrr dey duh best *fart* sniiiiiiiiiiiiiff
Morawank is the fucking most annoying shit.
I had a Mora and the piece of shit snapped at the handle.
Just stick with AMERICAN MADE knives and youll be far better off.
I have a Buck 110 from the 50s and it still functions fine.
t. boomer
There has been sold millions and millions of this style of knife. For an all round tool the shape and grip seems sufficient.
puta neck lanyard on them then you absolutemongo
What are some good Drop point knives with pretty wooden handles?
Currently looking at the Buck Vanguard and the Ontario Field knife.
There really a need to go with SV30 over 420HC with the Bucks?
How much do you want to spend?
what are you going to use it for?
does country of origin matter to you?
$350 Max-ish
Don't really care about the country.
I'm going to hit up "Worldfest" at Silver Dollar City, I know they have knife crafter's there, though I'm worried that they probably cut corners on steel. I like that hand crafted kind of bullshit.
I found a Mora knife in the woods that a bear had been chewing on next to a dead elk that it probably killed. Idk about their quality, I just thought that was cool. Have a super day.
A nata is the best choice.
Trying to do finer woodwork with that thing would be a nightmare. you're better off just using a hatchet for tasks that would require a literal butcher knife like that.
Esee and Becker for bushcraft hands down. Mora on a budget. Buck if superpoor.
Oh hell yeah bro with this flippety-flappety bad boi you can be tacticool as fuck and keep your fingers safe dude super cool super sick very nice design and you absolutely will not cut your finger on it ever at all
I've used OP's pic for atleast 2 years now. All light camp stuff, skinning/cooking, whittling etc etc. Works wonderfully, just don't try going batonny chop chop with it
Look into bark river. Billion different wood handles. Malanika has a really nice puuko. if you're looking for something more custom. Fallkniven has some pretty looking knives.
>Esee and Becker for bushcraft hands down
No thanks, I'd prefer an fallkniven f1 or lionsteel m4. Becker and Esee's steels are soft and their geometry is too thick for my tastes.
Are there any high quality but not ridiculously priced Canadian made knives out there? Something similar to what you might get with a Mora?
As a PA fag it would be more legal to weaponize aids needles than this or any knife like this.
It's the world of knives user, everything is ridiculously priced.
A lot of higher end steels aren't good for outdoors shit because they're all about edge retention and are fragile.
You must have misused it, also the mrka is 1/5th the price of the 110
sucks right? I stopped carrying my microtech troodon because I decided it wasn't worth losing my carry permit over in the off chance a cop ever saw me with it.... PA knife laws are FUCKING stupid
>A lot of higher end steels aren't good for outdoors shit because they're all about edge retention and are fragile.
And that's why there's countless videos of people batoning, cutting wood, stabbing, etc with extremely highly alloyed steels such as even m390 which has a stupid high chromium content and a 4% vanadium content? Even if were were to ignore recent advancements in nitrogen based steels giving way to extremely small grain size and even dispersion of nitrides as opposed to large carbide clumps found in heavily alloyed steels with carbon there's more than enough proof out there that you won't chip or snap a knife even if it's made out of m390 because steel is far tougher than what most people give it credit for. There's a reason why tool steel used by machinists have these alloying elements in them.
I should add, though, that 1095, O1, and other more simple and clean steels do have benefits such as easy of sharpenability and personally a more important factor apex stability. Highly alloyed steels such as zdp-189 and maxamet have large carbide clusters which I've mentioned before which lead to carbide tearout and low apex stability at low edge angles. Plus the carbide clumps once you get above 4% vanadium start to get so big that going beyond 1000 grit is a waste as the chunks of vanadium, tungsten, etc carbides are bigger than the sharpening medium particle size. Which is why personally I'm more of a fan of s30v and other less alloyed steels albeit that opinion has changed due to nitrogen steels and my fanboiism over them despite them being an extremely new development that is only just now reaching the consumer market.
I'm talking about s-35vn or even vg10. They chip out a lot under abuse. If course 1095 or whatever isn't the highest option but they arent bad. No one not retarded says 3v is bad.
They don't though. Fallkniven loves that shit and people use them all the time for batoning, cutting wood, etc, etc without any issue at all. Benchmade loves their s30v and bark river loves their 3v. Like I said, even m390 which is an extremely hard steel, far past s-35vn in alloying contents can and is used for bushcraft, the most popular example I can think of being the lionsteel m4. Probably more out there but that's the one I know.
I own several S30V knives. Two, notably from benchmade one being a $190 knife and one being $100 folder repeatedly give small chips under hard use.
>misunderstanding
Nope, hands on experience real world.
When blades chip they are compromised even small chips. That is why you do not use an axe that has chipped. You work the chip out to prevent a catastrophic failure.
Mhm, so yeah, meme tier understanding of metallurgy and complete denial of hundreds upon thousands of videos, reviews, forum posts, brands, etc, using s30v for bushcraft knives.
These bad boys are sourced in the Scandinavian Lapp people. They are very much bushcraft blades; the bigger ones are well suited to chop branches or butcher a bigger animal. Sturdy as fuck.
>Putting a proper hand guard on your knife has no drawbacks
Handguard can traumatize hands as well
Handguard may get stuck in the clothes
Handguard makes slicing things troublesome, like here youtu.be
Handguards trouble the concealment.
Knife with a handguard may look more dangerous in the eyes of the public and police.
You can have a good knife and learn how to stab even without a handguard. Just rest the butt of the handle against the palm.
It being softer allows it to actually be more durable, doesn't break like one with a higher rockwell hardness.
>Enjoy cutting your fingers when you stab anything with that shitty ass round peg grip
t. tactical fag
why would you be stabbing with a Mora?
retard
Besides skinning, can you please explain to me what bushcrafting tasks involve slicing soft abrasive materials where a relatively high wear resistant steel would be worth the toughness and apex stability tradeoffs that come with the chromium and vanadium carbide content?
To my mind, bushcrafting work seems to involve much more push cutting type work with wood, food prep, etc where a steel with higher apex stability and toughness would seem to be a more sensible choice.
If you really feel you need that wear resistance, at least something like 3V doesn't trade away so much apex stability and toughness for it.
I just bought a second RAT 1; I used the first daily for over a year at my job until the teflon washers started to wear. It's a really solid pocket knife and I like the plain-looking ergonomics and the flat ground blade.
How are you supposed to sharpen this thing?
Get a big ass axe and some great gloves. Get a splitter axe too. Then a two handed machete from cold steel. Then a pile of mora knifes. 300 dollars.
Get a balisong and learn to not cut the fuck out of yourself when using it