/prg/ Precision Rifle General

Vortex only shines in the intermediate price class and up. Get a 2nd gen PST or better. For the price of the diamondback, I'd rather get a SWFA SS 10x42

Oh windage not elevation

>max windage
Have you taken the turret off?

Yes.
Their trigger is worse than the Tikka and they had some recalls.

I've taken the cap off the turret, there's no zeroing spacers left in there or anything

I have a request for the copy paste.
I know the jbm ballistic calc has been a standard for a long time and makes good field cardsa request but it could be good to add hornady's ballistic calc (advanced features on) and 4dof calc to the ballistic chart section because they add more detail and can help someone see what exactly their bullet is doing with velocity, energy, moa at the same time as mil and inch drop, and theyre pretty easy to use.
Like:

Ballistic calc and chart.
>jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi
(old time standard and will be forever)
>hornady.com/team-hornady/ballistic-calculators/#!/
(good layout shows more other relevant information but easy to read and especially useful if hunter with energy values)
>hornady.com/team-hornady/ballistic-calculators/#!/4dof
(detailed and extremely precise if you can learn to use, especially if you have one of the listed bullets)

If you guys havent tried these out you should at least once. They were really well thought out and pretty much all I use now.
Ive found myself using the non-4dof calc a lot just to quickly compare loads, even on non-precision calibers (just to have an idea of what theyll do) a lot and really appreciate everything being there at once while being easy to read.

That is physical alignment of the mounts being off.
What rifle?
If you say Remington, the mount holes in the receiver very well could me misaligned.
A proper receiver truing and blueprint will drill the holes oversize and align them to the receiver centerline in the process.
Commonly necessary on a factory Remington.
Older Leupold mounts had the windage screw for gross windage adjustments to get close to centered.
Burris has the Posalign inserts for mechanical alignment adjustments.
Run your windage fully through its travel and center it and try to measure on paper it is off at 50 or 100 yards, even 25 yards will work. Trying to get the huge error out first.
Then move back and fine dial it in.

hm. the ones I tried (different friends both own one of each) were about on par imo, and both reasonably accurate.

but anyway, both are still a bit on the expensive side, I was thinking more of a howa 1500 or rem700 for babbies first precision bolter. or maybe I'll go full dick and get a 16" mossy mvp with a humongous muzzle brake to piss of my local fudds

someone give me the rundown axis rifles. i want something accurate but also not shed a tear over losing in case of happenings.

Cant beat those, TCs, or ruger Americans for the shekels.

Axis is fine. 110 is the proper rifle and isn't that much more.

Thinking about re-barreling this from 7mm rem mag to 300 rum or 30-378 weatherby, what do you guys think?

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I think all of those cartridges are equally meme-y. You're probably handloading anyway, so its kinda "whatever", isn't it?

rereading this and it looks like I had a stroke. Phoneposting sucks

Your throat will be fried before you develop a load.
7rm, 1:8, 180gr eldm

4-16 DB tactical (gen 2, FFP reticle) is much better bang for the buck. Comparable to vipers.

also, magazine feeding that big of a cartridge with long bullets probably wont be an option.

30-378 weatherby seems a bit dumb to me. It's only a hair higher velocity than the 300 RUM, but it's known to be much harder on the throat.

If you're going to buy a shmidt, buy it second hand for $2k-2.3k. If you're set on buying top of the line and you want to spend $3k, get on a waiting list for a ZCO ZC527.

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Is the spuhr mounted backwards?

Remember, you get what you pay for

Is this a sheep/goat gun? That's a whole lot of recoil and energy on target for such a light weight rig.

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No, Its an deer/elk gun. The recoil isn't bad at all desu

Damn, thanks. I guess ill just stick with 7mm for a while then

I'm new to the precision rifle scene and will likely get a Savage 110 in 6.5 CM. Could anyone recommend muzzle brakes and glass for 1000yd + shots?

Primary use is long range target shooting but I would like to take this rifle hunting every now and then

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Whats your budget? Precision glass starts at 300$ and can hit 2k easily.

Thinking the $300 to $600-ish price range. I've heard that glass should cost as much as the gun but not sure if that's just a meme

Just to throw an example out, Ive got ~0.015" clearance on my 300wm and thats just using a berger 215gr but I did use a longer than normal reamer. I started load developing on a 225 eldm a while back and got distracted but Im pretty sure it's going to be a single feeder.

7rm, with the right bullet/twist/reamer, currently seems like peak performance in a magnum action while respecting costs of brass and barrel. Youre going to out range what a lot of people put in their 338s XL actions and 30s and most eldms have a good kill record on game if you can keep the impact below ~2850 fps area. 195gr Berger 7mm could be another option.

what bullet/velocity do you use now?

different user, it's been awhile since I looked for good entry stuff, I dont know if it's dated advice with what you can get for the money now but the SWFA fixed powers are cheap and offer reliable tracking, good reticle, exceptional durability, and fine glass. I didnt trust a brand I hadnt heard the name for a long time but I found out they still make the same optics that were used in the military so gave them a go on a plinking rifle I had laying around. Outstanding optic for the price and my only complaint is the small lens doesnt pick up light as well as my nicer, larger lens optics but theyre great for what you pay for. Their 3-15 unfortunately has the same lens size but might be worth a go if you want the variable part.

>laughs in nib K624i for 2000

Im a huge fan of swfa, those are all I have on my guns. Eventually I'll upgrade, but for now theyre perfect. I only shoot 200 yards at max, im a group chaser not a long steel donger.

I'm looking at a Sako A7 in .308 at the moment, and I am quite temped. However, I've also been saving up for a tikka t3x and now I am in doubt which one I should go for.
Any suggestions?

I dont want to be that guy, but its gonna happen, why 308?

Out of the box the Sako might be slightly better.
However there are more aftermarket options for Tikka.

Is the Zeiss Conquest HD5 5-25X50 scope worth buying? It seems good to go despite being the budget product line for Zeiss.

Because the dealer only has it in .308 at the moment, and because in my country it is the cheapest all-round caliber.

>more aftermarket options
Can you elaborate?

$3K for a NIB 5-25X PMII is a great deal. That’s what I paid for mine about a year ago and mine came with the scope caps and S&B cleaning kit. I think S&B lowered the MSRP on their legacy models to make them more competitive with NF and Vortex because I’m seeing them come up NIB for between 2.7-3K every now and then depending on the reticle.

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APA Little Bastard muzzle brake if you don’t plan on running a suppressor.

Got it.

Too bad this stock only comes in spackled diarrhea

Anyone have recommendations for a 4x fixed optic?

I have a Ruger american in 6.5cm that will be used for hunting this deer season and when I get access to longer ranges I'll put better glass on.

I didn't see anything in the OP about this, though I would guess it is a common question:

What is a good rifle to start with if you want to git gud at precision shooting? (Budget: $1k, maybe $1.5k including optics.) I don't want to burn a ton of money as a beginner and have people at the range laugh at me. I want to buy something sturdy and practice my way up, then buy something high-end once I'm better.

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group shooting, competition styles, casual paper punching just to see how far you can do it, hunting, or shtf larping? Also, how long of range do you have access to?
Most of these can be answered with This rifle in 6.5cm or 308, an swfa fixed 12x, and a harris (s-brm I think it was but double check) or magpul bipod. Do not cheap out on rings. Also, get into handloading and at least get something to address run out.

I have a Swaro Z8i 2.3-18x56, and I’d highly recommend it. Slightly more than $3k but it’s well worth it IMO.

Thanks for the suggestion; I will look into whether local dealers have the Savage 110 in stock. Mostly casual paper punching with the aim of practicing longer and longer distances until I can take shots from very far away. I can get access to basically unlimited distances in the wild, but probably just like 250 yards on a range.

I might hunt in the future as well, but then I'll need a scope that goes down to like 3x, right? I read that with higher zooms you can miss your surroundings and just see the fur of the animal, especially if it is moving. I can always start out with something cheap first and then buy real optics later on.

im completely new to bolt guns besides shooting them during pre sniper training in the military. how is 300 WM for a first bolt gun build? and what are things to consider for my build?

Berger 168gr vld hunting w/ 70 grains of retumbo, getting 2977 ft/s out of a 26in barrel

>I can get access to basically unlimited distances in the wild
good realistic practice
>I might hunt in the future as well
then make sure you distinguish between how well you can group shoot or walk bullets in versus how far you can make a first round, cold bore hit everytime. The distance will be shorter.
>then I'll need a scope that goes down to like 3x, right
Yes and no, strong opinions on both sides of this.
In my opinion, if you already practiced in shouldering your rifles aiming through an optic and find yourself naturally close on target then 12x is fine even at 10-20 yards and I personally dont shoot at running targets. I feel like Id even be fine with 20x on some of my optics with greater field of view. Youre going to be slower though. When theyre built with long range in mind you have to start playing with the parallax settings between shooting different ranges and learn to do it fast.
If youre not a western hunter, then youre probably hunting denser brushy areas and should get a different rifle thats a bit quicker.

Also, before buying the rifle, learn to use a ballistic calculator and make sure youre still interested. I lose a lot of people here and a set up is no good without a knowing how to use these.

its a bad choice as a first serious rifle caliber unless you know how to build them for modern loads, handload, and can afford to feed desu.

Would a basic bitch old Remington 700 30-06 make it as a decent 500 yard gun?

I just got a Ruger precision rifle in .300wm. I had no idea what to expect but so far I’m very happy. I reload my own.
Someone shit on my choices

Who makes good fixed optics in the 6-10 range? 1000 usd budget, but I can stretch the budget further and wait if that's not enough dosh for quality.

Three hunnit is an awesome practical marksman round with a pedigree in killing folks. You did well.

What should I consider before making a choice between 7mm rem mag and 300wm? They both seem about the same with 300 having an edge in bullet choice.

>Someone shit on my choices
you asked
>cant mag feed most heavy l33t new bullets while getting close to lands
>cant fully stabilize some heavy l33t new bullets down to sea level
>possibly out-ranged by a 6.5cm depending on what youre loading
>heavy to free hand or hike with
>people will judge you for owning a savage
you could have done worse and at least you handload. Post your load and optic and Ill do more.

Never looked into precision shooting so have some basic questions
What is the learning curve like? Example if you had a rifle mechanically capable how long does it take to hit a man sized target at 1000 yards consistently?
Is the adage of spending more on the optic than the rifle true?

wood or plastic stock?
swfa is all I know of that still does.

>What is the learning curve like?
In your example, not long, 10 minutes on a calm day maybe if you have proper form and dont mind walking shots in with a spotter
>Is the adage of spending more on the optic than the rifle true
It is if you want to get more of the performance your rifle has to offer but you can "make do" within reason depending on how much money youre talking about

It's a Bergara base rifle, I can't imagine the receiver holes being off?

It's wood, I'm talking like a 70s Remington.

It's impossible to mount a spuhr mount backwards, the bubble level always has to be at the rear, so no

SWFA?

I don't know of any aftermarket stock or trigger options for the A7.

if the barrel is good and youre willing to put some work in then itll be great. A lot of people start on old rem700s and the troubleshooting can help you down the road.
If it stays in the wood
>free float
>pillar bed
>bed action and knox
otherwise, Id suggest an aluminum bedding block stock but you should still bed and make sure it's floated. They start around $300.
It might already shoot well enough for vitals but it's fun to see how good you can make it. At the very least make sure it's floated and the screws have even tension.
Your limiting factor/what will make it hard is probably going to be optic and load. You want something with a ranging reticle (NOT BDC) and good tracking which typically arent cheap aside from swfa (but theyre ugly imo). You want a precise load with temperature stable powder and small extreme speed spreads between shots but it wont hurt you so bad at just 500 yards.

swfa is a company that sells good fixed optics and just happens not to cost much for the quality they give

Their 3-15 and 5-20 are great too. For the cost they punch over their weight

Honest to god truth I'd never buy a variable SWFA. I would drown in their 10x42s all day errday tho.

SWFA makes a excellent fixed mag optic for the price. A SS 10x42mm with mil reticle, mil turrets and side adjusting parallax will run you $400 NIB, and they have excellent resell value when you decide to upgrade. Don't cheap out on scope rings.

ok
I've got one on a Ar10. Was looking at the 4-12 DB Tactical for a AR build.

I don't get why the 4-12 has rotation indicators and the 4-16 does. Get it together Vortex.

Hitting man sized targets isn't that hard from prone on a calm day. You'll be fucked without a spotter, if you arent experienced though trying.

Companies, like vortex, and Nightforce, have upended the optics world. So a PRS winning rifle from wade stuteville costs like 4.5k, and a NF ATACR 7-35 F1 which is the most used PRS scope, costs like 3.5k so no you shouldn't. You should spend more on your rifle than your optic in absolutes.

But if you really want to get into long range or precision shooting, something like a vortex viper PST gen 2 will be sort of the minimum. There are a few other goods one in that price range, from like Nikon, or Athlon. Leupold is all american made means, it cant really compete on price with budget optics, but once you can afford, like vx5HD or better they are awesome as well. NF, and Kahles are sorta king right now. If your looking at more tactical scopes, the Sig Tango6 is good, and Schmidt and Bender of course.

Do dangerous game rifle scopes need to be built to a different standard to handle the recoil of those rounds or will any good 1-6 do?

depends on the manufacturer, Leupold tests all its optics on the same machine, the designed to simulate the worst recoild possible. So if you go with them you are fine. You will need to research other brands. Ignore the can handle 50BMG. 50BMG, has a less damaging recoil than putting a optic on a 9mm handgun. 357H&H has the worst recoil.

What exactly is your goal? To have cool gear or badass high power long range rifle. If it's the second, and you're familiar with bolt action, you should look into early 60s hunting rifles. They're usually really well made, don't cost a fortune, are super accurate and the only thing is, they're not tacticool 2019. But for my money, today, tacticool bolt is hands down a Ruger gunsite scout.

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I have the 3-15x SWFA, it's a nice optic, about what you'd expect for the price. Certainly not as much value as the fixed. I'll also say I bought it back around 2011 when there were way less options for serviceable, budget friendly FFP optics. These days there's a lot more competition so the SWFA variables can't hang as much.

Yes 3006 does 500 yards with a good old Remington but like forty inches of drop. At range, the energy of the projectiles really determines effectiveness. Good idea to research ballistics charts. Bullet drop is consistent with gravity, and many small arms calibers top out around 3000 fps. Bullet diameter effects wind drag, as well as shape of projectiles. My research concluded that a 30 caliber needed to be followed by a much heavier bullet and power to make much difference past 3006. Next real step is 50 bmg. Unless you change bullet weight drastically, like using depleted uranium. But, exotic bullets have been known to chew barrels. Just like too much velocity.

>.300wm
>Someone shit on my choices
Not getting that .338 Loopy Mag...

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Not him, but when I looked, at it couldnt afford, to pay 2 dollars a round for the Lapua mag, versus 75cents for 300winmag

>depleted uranium
30 cal has especially bad spherical predecession with long bullets and realistically the heaviest tungsten bullets are really front heavy screwing your BC up. Extra long copper monolithic bullets are the best balance.

Just raped my wallet with 200 rounds of 338 lm. Really makes you think

Took my father out behind the ranch today. He's never shot over 100 yards (purely a hunter). So he brought out his Browning 7mm Rem Mag with the old Vortex Crossfire (original not the II). I told him how to dial in his scope and he fired one round right over the top of the gong at 500 yards. Told him to dial down a couple inches and he placed two more shots within two and a half inches of each other. Was very proud of him. Of course I brought out my M40A1. All in all it was a great day!

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Side view of the rifle for anyone interested. Yes my tactical blue foam pad!

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True that. Back in the day there only a handful of options for a decent budget glass. I do enjoy the diversity of today's market. All things considered, if I had to pick one scope to for a SHTF/Apocalypse/WW3 scenario, it would be their 10x42. That or a 5k Nightforce.

I really don't see the point of long action calibers, especially Lapua type stuff, unless you have a 1000+ range to play on. It's just a waste of money.

Is that a legit Unertl? I heard you can still find them in mint condition if you look hard enough.

Thats why I prefer boattails. Plus, when you up the density of a bullet, depleted uranium or tungsten, you must increase powder load for velocity, thus increasing terminal energy and lowering windage coefficient. But, those rounds both need Copper banding or full copper jacket's. Plus the added density wears throats on barrels faster especially at the rifiling. Theyre excellent projectile s though. Pure copper is great, but a du or tungsten round is in it's own class.

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Thick. Unertl also.
All original?
What is the barrel profile, length, diameter at Receiver, muzzle diameter?
Classic piece of history and beautiful in its own purposeful way.

Sadly no, not an original Unertl but one of the US Optic MST100 scopes. These were made as a replacement for the USMC Unertl MST100 after Unertl went out of business. A Unertl will run about twice the cost of the USO (and the USO is pricey enough).

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6.5 is good out to 1000 yards easily, .338 LM is when you wanna get out to mile territory

You're less likely to hit a target at 1760 yards with 140gr 6.5 creedmoor compared to 285gr .338 LM, but you can still ring steel. Both rounds at that distance demand a better-than-average ability to make wind calls on top of your core marksmanship fundamentals. Good wind reading and marksmanship fundamental practice can be had with a 22lr trainer rifle at 200-300 yards.