Re-loading thread!!!

Can we get a re-loading thread going.
Specifically something like a beginners guide.

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Yeah.

Based double yeah poster.

Hi noobs
Here’s a few of the most common answers I see given in reloading generals
A lee kit is fine to get started with.
Start with reloading the caliber you either shoot the most or spend the most on factory ammo for
9mm and 224 are just barely worth it to reload plinking ammo for if you consider reloading part of the hobby. If not, just buy cheap anmo.
Check out estate sales for reloading gear
Only buy the gear you need for what you are doing. Don’t get carried away with buying every little doo-dad just because it exists.
Autistic levels of brass cleaning serve no purpose beyond aesthetics, but that is reason enough to wet tumble and polish your brass
Lee Loaders do not work for semiautomatics
Do not trust reloading data from an Laotian Gummy Bear collecting enthusiast forum
I’ll post more later.

>224
*223 Rem

could I get a guide on finding estate sales?

Go outside and look for little signs on the side of the road that say “estate sale”
Go to older, expensive neighborhoods

>Go outside
dropped

page 9 bump

1000 rounds of 223 is 300$ for average 55grain brass. 1000 primers are 30, 4 pounds of powder for under 100 1k of Hornady bullets are around 100 in bulk and you can get high grain than 55. 70 bucks cheaper for better ammo. I know there's a decent amount of time invested in reloading but it's fun.

Bump for 9x25 Dillon

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I just need a few more things to begin.

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Try $270 and $170 respectively. It's just not worth my time unless on single stage.

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Is it cool if I smoke in here?

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Why dont lee loaders work for semi-autos?

For noobs

A compressed load is where you fill up your cases completely with pistol powder and seat bullets on top of that. It will absolutely fire without pressure issues and produce fantastic results downrange.

They do. But you have to use the brass fired from the same gun you will be reloading ammo for.

This seems like sarcasm, but there is legit load data for compressed loads on nearly any gun you could think of. My current handloads are either compressed or damn close to it and they shoot totally fine and without any pressure signs.

the difference in chamber dimensions between rifles can't be THAT different?

hell, there are like 4 different dimension ratios alone for .223 / 5.56, each with their own tolerances, if using fired brass i can't imagine they'd expand so much that they become rifle unique... besides you still need to re-neck them to fit the new bullet anyway right?

i think the key here was that he said pistol power, IIRC pistol power burns much faster than rifle powder since less of it is used.

Really depends on the pistol powder. I use H110 and AA#9 in compressed loads without issue, but faster powders can do maybe 50% case fill, then you're literally playing with fire because the pressure spikes get pretty extreme at high volume.

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whats your load data for .44mag? I don't really do a compressed load with it as I'm chickenshit. The most I've used is 21gr. of h110 with a 310gr. cast bullet.

I actually load .454 Casull. Nosler doesn't have load data for .454, but their images give great examples of case fill. I do 35gr +/-1 AA#9 and a 185gr XTP that's roll crimped just past the ogive as my CC loads, or 32gr AA#9 with 240gr XTP MAG for practice loads. The first hits around 2200 fps and the second does about 1800. The key with slow burning powders is to always use the max load from the start or work up while substituting magnum primers. Those slower powders are picky but very safe compared to more conventional powders.

>use the max load from the start
huh, thats odd.

We'll I agree the time is most valuable aspect involved you'll probably get 2 moa out of budget federal 55 grain factory ammo. If you reload and use a good powder you can get much better results. Find how much powder, what grain bullets your gun likes, and make sure the brass and seating is done well. If you do that most guns will achieve sub moa.

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Don't bother with the lee loaders for semi autos. Buy a lee breech lock anniversary set for about 120. You'll need most of the stuff in it at some point. I don't trust those scoops for accurate powder measurement either. You'll want the scale and the powder measure.

I know how that sounds. Slow powders actually have a good amount of wiggle room with their loads, but max charge guarantees consistent ignition. You only ever want to get a squib once.

Pistol cartridges shouldn't be an issue though right?

If you buy ultimate die sets from lee they come with full length sizing dies

bumper

They neck size only, not full length resize.
They work fine for single shots, bolt and lever guns

See

user, u don’t know what a Lee Loader is.

My bad, thought you meant lee presses in general

No worries m8
I use a vintage (70’s era I think) Lee Loader for my 30/30 with lead bullets I cast myself sometimes just for the nostalgia feels.
Y’all should try it atleast once.

After I finish vacuuming the gunpowder I spilled....that stuff's dangerous.

There's absolutely nothing dangerous about compressed loads. In my experience I get a more consistent and even burn and produce more consistent accuracy with compressed loads. In particular .223 rem and 10mm. I chrono'd some of my older loads a couple of days back and I had to recheck the strings as I was getting 1288fps and 1289fps with 180gr xtp over 5 shot groups.

Anyone loading for 300blk? Looking into getting a barrel for my contender and cant decide if i want 30-30 or 300nig. I dont hunt, its 100% a paper puncher and gong ringer out to 400 yards.