QTDDTOT

what are some reputable cc holster brands? I feel like i've asked this 3 times now but I never get an answer, worry not about what gun I have, i'll do the searching for if they have it or not, but i'll be happy just to get some recommendations. I think crazy kydex was something I was told but waiting 5-6 weeks is way too long.

Honestly, so long as its kydex and form fitted to your gun rather than a universal, you'll be 100% fine. Just be sure what kind you want like single clip, double clip, mag caddy, leather backed, etc. Very hard to go wrong on build quality its your preferences that need to be squared away.

See

B-B-B-BUT I SAID "LET'S SETTLE THIS ONCE AND FOR ALL"
W-W-W-WHY ARE THERE ALREADY A DOZEN THREADS TALKING ABOUT 9MM VS. 45????

Still better than there only being 20 niggers online at any given moment in the same 3 stale threads time after time after time. Fuck the two of you and every horse you even looked at before the one you rode in on

I see, my guess is that double clip is more stable and distributes load better, so I'm going to look for one of those and maybe get a separate mag holder that I can put on the other side of my hip

Yeah double clip sounds nice until you realize how much real estate it takes up. I personally ended up with one extra thicc clip so the size of the holster is the same as the gun itself.

I like desantis, they mostly make fudd stuff and are a lil pricey for what they are but well made and make stuff for just about anything

Glow in the dark paint

Doesnt work worth a shit. Ask me how I know.

Why did you niggers kill the board by forcing us to make every inane question it’s own thread? This place is dead, every single post on this board should be made in a QTDDTOT thread, and fuck you for being such a dumb little nigger

so would you say that a double clip holster isn't for average guys? i'm 5'9" at about 160 lbs, I see a holster like the one you're talking about, 1 thicc clip and on this one you can change from 0 to 15 degree cant which is nice

I'll give them a look, thank you

It's all gonna depend on personal preference, but I'd definitely check that sort out.

>5'9"
>160
Oof

6 o'clock hold is what you want bro. Line up the sights and set the round bull right ON TOP of the front blade. Like an apeture sight on a rifle your eye will want to center than circle post and you will get more easily repeatable groups.

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for IWB I would say just any kydex holster that is only retained with compression, works great for me. OWB I don’t know, probably want active retention

gonna compare what i've found in a minute, thanks for the advice

what

that's what i've been looking at so far, but I see that all of them use screws which if it's like this one kydex sheath I have for a knife, they will loosen with time, might just apply some red locktight after I find the ideal angle/height

This is probably one of the better ones i've found, the 1 clip is very similar and you can actually make this one a 1 clip if you take off whats on the sides. I feel like i've narrowed it down to just these two, just need to decide on which one.

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I finally fully assembled my L1A1 clone and took it to the range and first round, and every subsequent round, was subject to a malfunction. The rifle will chamber and eject a round just fine but when I chamber and fire a round the bolt gets stuck and needs extreme force to pull back. This only happens after I chamber and fire a round. The best I can figure the extractor is binding and preventing the BCG from returning. Anyone have this problem or know what I can do? Pic slightly related, from last Sunday

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Does it really matter how you load an AR?
I heard you should only use the bolt release compared to pulling the charging handle and letting go.

I would recommend realizing that it's the greatest handgun ever made, 6 shots is enough to kill anything that moves and getting pretty good.

Did you try different ammo?

If it’s the ejector then the bcg should have trouble sliding in and out during disassembly. Maybe see if anything is binding when you pull it out? If not then it would be something on the lower or operating spring. My bcg drops right in with ease.

Doesn’t matter, it should be obvious when to use one. If you just put a fresh mag in and the bolt is locked back pulling the charging handle is pretty dumb. If the bolt is closed, unchambered then pulling the charging handle, engaging the bolt stop just to release the bolt stop right after also sounds dumb. Just make sure you don’t ride the charging handle, just let it go

What’s the hottest load you can realistically shoot out of the Italian important single actions? I’m guessing these are way stronger than what the CAS crowd makes them out to be.

I ended up ordering this holster lads, feeling excited, going to do a bit of target practice before I take the LTC class in a few weeks since I need to work on not flinching

Ask your mother how you were born lil rookie

I don't cook up anything nuclear but I do have run up to the edge of safe loading per my load manual and I haven't noticed anything particularly dangerous happen besides getting a nose bleed from the erection

Yeah I tried with match grade 308 and PPU Real Fuckin NATO and it’s always binds up after a shot
Maybe it’s something else binding? Since it’s only after a shot I assume something with the expanded casing

I cannot make image posting work so I’ll ask with a model name
> K bar big brother

I’m looking for something with that overall design shape, a good serrated back edge and somewhat smaller handle than the length of the knife blade. The Ontario SP 15.m. Is a great price point but I don’t like the handle or the blade shape. Is there something much closer to the big brother that is in the Ontario SP 15 price range? I could go up to 50 or 60 maybe.

Purposes are a general do it all night to carry in the car and possibly out into the woods, wanted to be able to quickly cut through seatbelts, possibly sturdy enough to punch out windows, just a good overall shape and handle for a Friday night in case something happens by my driver side window.

Sorry meant to say something closer to the big brother in shape but not in size, definitely looking for something much closer to a normal K bar

.yeaH

Basically a normal kabar with the serrated back like the big brother and a synthetic handle and sheath, What are my options in between like 30 and 60.

Sorry that was so hard to make clear

Idiot here, what's the deal with all the different primers? Since it's only function is to ignite the powder, shouldn't a small one work just fine as long as it's still big enough to deliver that spark?

I've heard of people loading large pistol primers in rifle cartridges and I just don't see the point in why. Unless you have some kind of really small pistol cartridge, and thus needing a smaller one to fit, wouldn't having a simple universal primer size for pistol, rifle and shotgun work just fine?

Does it have to be a Ka-Bar (-like)?
For what you want to use it for, I would recommend a Glock field knife or a diver's knife. A serrated edge won't help you with seatbelts, you want a dedicated seatbelt cutter or at least a rope cutter, which diver's knives have. They also can have a hammer head on the hilt that you can use for destroying windows. I also have a folder in my car that has a seatbelt cutter and a spike to hit windows.

I got a buddy whos deploying soon. He wants to sell me a mosin and a daniel defense AK for 200 bucks. Ive shot both and they function, would I be stupid to not take this offer?

>I got a buddy whos deploying soon. He wants to sell me a mosin and a daniel defense AK for 200 bucks. Ive shot both and they function, would I be stupid to not take this offer?

**Riley defense
Sorry im a dumb nigger

You'd be absolutely fucking retarded not to take a Mosin and an AK for 200 bucks, regardless of what brand it is

amazon.com/Promate-Sharp-Titanium-Dive-Knife/dp/B003UWOMNQ/ref=as_li_ss_il?creativeASIN=B003UWOMNQ&imprToken=TYcrUpwyoxxlar.Q8vOEqQ&slotNum=5&ie=UTF8&qid=1526610658&sr=8-2&keywords=Promate scuba knife&linkCode=w61&tag=knife10a-20&linkId=a4a27662310dcc4871c9e30f3d1d7d44
This looks promising, but what part is the seatbelt cutter? It just says “serrated edge for rope cutting”. As far as “ka bar like” I meant drop point with a generous guard.

It's called a MAGAZINE you fucking newfag

Just wanted to make sure

That notch right before the guard is the cord cutter, but you can also use it for seatbelts.

>drop point with guard
As mentioned, the Glock 78. Drop point, guard, bottle opener, nearly indestructible.

what's the Jow Forums approved brands/models for laptop backpacks?

Nope, it's all about igniting more of the powder at once. The primer is a small explosive iirc, not a propellant. It's job is to get as much of the powder burning uniformly as it can. That's why magnum rounds need a primer beyond just "large". Shotshells operate a little different because of the wadding, but for everything else you need something appropriately sized to make sure it ignites properly

Is there anything Hazardous about running this? are there any practical disadvantages?
I am interested because you never know when you might need to breach.

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Who has good memorial day sales on optics?

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I actually mean clip though, like the clip part that holds onto the belt

>Is there anything Hazardous about running this?
Yeah that design is incredibly dangerous and literally made by the Chinese to maim stupid Americans who buy cheap tacticool shit. It leaves the shotshell primer dangerously exposed so that it can denote when knocked on something and starts a chain reaction with the cartridges in the magazine. It will literally blow a pumpkin sized hole in you.

So... it's sort of like lighting a cigar? Gotta have an even burn?

Google "internal ballistics". It's a science by itself.

Different powders require different amounts of spark to start burning.

Pistol primers are typically not very strong because pistol powder lights much faster than rifle powder. Large pistol primers are used in cartridges with generally higher case capacity and therefore less of the case is filled with powder since you won't have a massive amount more powder in a .45 ACP despite having that much room to work with.

Rifle primers have more pressure behind them to send the spark further into the much deeper case. The powder is also harder to ignite and requires a more intense flame to start the reaction and do it somewhat consistently throughout the case or you end up with a lot of unburnt powder. Super big magnum pistols like .454 Casull use small rifle primers because they both have a bigger case and were made to fire much slower burning powders. I've experimented with half-loads in .454 and got nothing but squibs because some powder is actually extremely hard to ignite.

Magnum primers were made specifically for the above problem to just hit the powder harder on ignition which causes a much more consistent burn with slightly faster pressure increases, hence you should be careful when using magnums in loads not specifically asking for them. This exact thing is why you can't have a universal primer type, since too weak will keep your ammo from going off and too strong will blow your chamber up with a relatively low amount of powder.

Since I've already covered every other primer type, there's also shotgun primers which are just bigger pistol primers since they have a wider reservoir of powder but not a very deep one. There's also .50 BMG primers which are like a fuckin' .380 blank in terms of power because .50 BMG is fuckhuge.

Got to, no, but for ideal ballistics, yes. Otherwise you're gonna be wasting powder as it flies unignited out of the barrel

I can get a mount-less EOTech G33 for a decent price. Does anyone make a mount for it besides the $170 OEM one?

Retarded shit like that is what keeps this board fun you complete tard.

Some people are here for actual discussion, not for the memes, you absolute fucking cancerfag.

That's funny fuck off Boomer. Back to barfcom with you nofun faggot

My example was an obvious exaggeration, sorry that your 3 brain cells couldn't realize that. A real example of the shit that doesn't deserve it's own thread would be something like
or

I just bought the first modern striker fired gun I've ever owned, and the sights suck, so I also bought a set of Truglo TFX sights for it. My ammo won't even have shown up before the sights do, but I'm putting them on anyways. My question is, there doesn't seem to be any mention of adjustability on Truglo's website, and from what I know these sights are just held on by screws, so what the fuck do I do if I go to shoot and they're off? The gun came with 3 different front sight posts for vertical adjustment. Do I just trust the manufacturers to trust each other for shit to be all centered? Never installed aftermarket sights on any pistol, the rest of mine are non-adjustable and also dead-on

>fitness thread
>found artillery thread
Both deserve their own thread you monumental fucking faggot, find the closest gun and fucking shoot yourself

>some lanklet grasping for hope that he isn't a completely useless sack of bones (there's an actual fitness thread up already btw)
>some noguns asking how much money he can get for something he could've just looked up on ebay that's being sold for 3 cents
ftfy nigger

>when you already went so far that you just have to roll with it until the end
Just admit you were being a retard, we're all anonymous here, nobody knows your name and can mock you longer than this thread exists.

I just got babbys first AR and it came with a plastic A2 grip. It's pretty uncomfortable and I fucking hate it. I'd like better one, what are some good brands, where should I look, and what should I look for?

Will a Webley Mk III cam lever work on a Webley Mk VI?

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Nail polish the sights

QTDDTOT was here long before you, and will be here long after you are gone from here

Does anyone have a .308 20rd gen 3 pmag?
What are the dimensions? Length, width, thickness. I can't find shit online.

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Will a Mossberg 500/590 trigger blade work in a Maverick 88 trigger assembly? I'll be disabling the receiver safety and using the cross-bolt safety instead.

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My .308 bolty boi came with a soft rubber butt pad. After firing 30 rounds in about 10 minutes, I had a bruise or petechia on my shoulder with the distinct pattern of the butt pad. I figured it was from the recoil. But then a couple weeks later I was practicing coming up from low ready, not even firing, and I got the same bruise. My air rifle with a hard rubber butt pad does not do this. It's like the soft rubber pad grabs and pinches my skin even through clothing.

Has this ever happened to you? Is there a better kind of recoil pad I can get?

no question, just venting

>live in california shithole
>finally decide to pick up a .22
>researching all the bullshit hoops you have to jump though to get a gun in this liberal hellhole
>need a driver's license. check mine, its expired. fuck. check if passports work. they dont. fuck.
>need to get a Real ID or some bullshit because who knows. gather all the documents you need, which is a lot
>wait in the DMV forever. finally get a the paperwork in
>realize they only give me a temporary license, have to wait 30 days for a new one
>check online, you cant use the temporary license to buy a gun
>FUCK
>even once I get my license, I'll need to wait 10 days to pass a background check
FUCK this shitty fucking state

Can someone please post that picture of those negative gun store reviews where some fudd kept showing people this folder full of pictures of exploded polymer guns?

What's the best earpro for an indoor range? I'll be doubling up with foamies, but I already have a slight case of the EEEEEE from my job, so I wanna play it safe. I've seen muffs on Amazon that supposedly have a 34 or 37 NRR, but I'm skeptical because anything higher than 31 usually comes from a cheap no-name brand. Wondering what you guys use

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Anything wrong with a mav 88 as a first shotgun for both home and clay?

Absolutely nothing wrong with it.

cool thanks

>>need a driver's license. check mine, its expired
How does that even happen you irresponsible zoomer fucktard?

So I've never bought a gun online but there's something I have my eyes on but can't find it in town. How does one FFL? Is there any kind of etiquette that should be adhered to? Like let's say you're getting a lower from PSA or something. What's the step-by-step process of that? I just don't want to be one of those guys that FFLs hate simply because I don't really know what I'm doing.

If you're gonna do this often, get your ffl. If not, just have it sent to your LGS. Mine charges $10 for the transfer.

I sold my car three years ago.

My dad wants to give me his old shotgun
I'm in California, how do I go about the transfer? Do I have to go down to a FFL and wait 10 days or what?

Any SIG pros here? I field stripped my sig p229 enhanced elite, and noticed this little divot on the locking insert. I field stripped it before and didn't notice it. Is this normal ?

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>get your FFL
Are you fucking retarded?
Heres the skinny
>order gun online
>pay for gun
>get in contact with a local FFL
>hey do yall do transfers? I need one for x
>okay cool can you please send your FFL to (seller email) thanks
>seller receives FFL documents
>seller ships to FFL
>FFL will (hopefully) say hey, your guns here
>go in, fill out 4473, hopefully pass, pay transfer fee, leave with gun
Its retardo simple.

Just go with a solid set of EPs that are from a reputable company. If money is no object, my suggestion is 3M Peltor Tactical XP. I got a pair for work and I have never felt more secure in hearing protection. It's durable, it seals well against the head regardless of eye protection or long hair, and it's electronic with good auto-off and sound quality. I feel like I'm advertising, but I seriously couldn't recommend it enough. Adding plugs under it makes a .308 sound like what a 9mm sounds like with plugs in and makes a running F-15 sound like the interior of a sedan on the highway. I don't know who sells them anymore, but here's one on Amazon.
amazon.com/dp/B006B7SV98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-3g6CbA8JWK3A

Normal
It's how sig identifies different locking lugs between models and generstions. My p220 has 6 divets

you could remove the extractor and fire a round. If bcg moves freely then you have a chamber/barrel issue

Really? I’ve been spray painting my lightswitches with it for years

The amount of light it can put out is directly proportional to how much paint is used. Front sights are tiny, it will glow for all of 30 seconds.

Thanks for the input friend. I'll keep an eye out for those. The $35 shipping is kind if rapey, but I'm sure I can find it for less if I look hard enough

Does anyone know of an outdoor range in DE/MD/VA area that has good distance to it?

Idiot here. Suppose there are 2 .45 ACP guns with identical weight.
One of them has some friction or mechanism that interacts with the bolt, slowing it down as it recoils. The mechanism acts on the frame, pushing it slightly.
As a result, the bolt slows down gradually instead of going from 10 to 0 near the trigger.
Does the second gun have a less-powerful kick to the user? Or am I just being stupid?

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You're on the right track, though friction is generally not a good mechanism for self-loading guns. It can only spread the recoil impulse over up to half the cycle (i.e. while the bolt is moving rearward), as during the other half the frictional force is pulling the bolt backward and the frame forward. A spring, on the other hand, can spread recoil throughout the whole cycle, since it pushes the bolt forward and the frame backward throughout the entire cycle.
For an example of a single-shot weapon that does apply friction, rather than relying on a recoil spring, to allow handling incredible recoil in a shoulder-fired weapon, see the Lacroix Samourai/FN HIWS:
youtube.com/watch?v=HyAl9qK3Rlg

If you replace the friction with a stiffened recoil spring that smoothly decelerates the bolt to zero without letting it impact the rear receiver, you're half-way to Sullivan's "constant recoil" system -- the other half is doing the math on a gas operating system so that the impact of the bolt going into battery is matched to the recoil impulse from firing a cartridge. See patents.google.com/patent/US4475438A/en

The ideal mechanism would be a recoil spring that exerts a constant force, and that force is just sufficient to bring the bolt to a stop right before it reaches the end of travel and bashes into the back of the receiver. A normal recoil spring, which exerts less force when the bolt is in battery, and more force as it goes farther back, is not quite as good, but as long as it has the same average force, and still brings the bolt to a standstill without impacting the back of the receiver, it's good enough.