Unorthodox Reloading

>I'm going with the robot
Because you're dumb faggot kid that knows nothing. I could do it on a grinder with a Harig and a sine plate in a couple of days. You know, things that actually exist and are obtainable.

I'm over 40, but I'm guessing that does make me a kid to some old fart who wants to grind a thousand parts by hand. And robots are quite obtainable. We're in the golden age of cheap Chinese components for DIY one off single purpose CNC machines costing hundreds of dollars instead of tens of thousands.

Do ranges allow non-lead bullets?
Wax bullets?
Plastic bullets?

I know they're uptight as fuck that your lead be plated.

Pretty random question, Jow Forumsommandos; any of you fags know how long those blue 400g Rothenberger propane cylinders tend to last when annealing brass? I've got it on an old Bernzomatic brass torch head.

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Some boomers at my gun store told me about how one can pack black powder into wadcutter bullets and stick a large pistol primer on the front to make an explosive round. I sense bullshit but would like to know if it really can be done.

if that were to work the primer would be in the tip with a solid base like actual tank or artillery rounds

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Yeah thats what I meant. How much skill would it take to pull that off?

harness the power of
>wubwubwub
to sheer the rod apart

In theory, although it sounds like a great way to blow your finger off, and God forbid you use it anywhere near another person. Just pack the powder tight, place a primer at the top, crimp it down (not hard enough to set it off) and there you go.

Ever think about lead free fishing weights? Tungsten can be found elsewhere.

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Tungsten that thin can be snapped off with pliers. Anybody who’s TIG welded learns how to snap a tungsten. You’ll be making shorter lengths than a TIG torch takes, so you’ll need a vise, as well. It would work like this:
>measure and mark a 1” section of the tungsten rod
>clamp the rod into the vise so that the measured piece is sticking out, with the marked line just level with the surface of the jaws
>clamp vise grips onto the part sticking out, as close to the vise jaws as possible
>give the vise grips a quick, sharp jerk

The rod will snap at roughly the point where it sticks out of the vise. Wear eyepro, there will be chips flying around. To put a concentric point on the pieces, you’ll need a bench grinder with a special grinding wheel. Any welding supply shop will have them, as well as a plethora of TIG tungstens in 6” lengths and a number of different diameters. To put a concentric point on them, you lightly grind the rod while spinning it. Don’t hold the rod perpendicular to the wheel, hold it parallel to the wheel. For better control, chuck it into a Dremel. Turn on the Dremel, start barely touching the end of the rod to the upper part of the wheel. Guys at the welding shop can explain it better, or look up a YT video of how it’s done.

Once you’ve got a nice concentric point on there, flat grind the butt end if it’s all jagged and shit. Tungsten breaks like glass when it’s snapped, so you’ll need to do some cleaning up.

Once you’ve snapped and ground your rod pieces, weigh them on your reloading scale. You’ll want to flat grind the butts until they all weigh the same. What you do with them at that point is your business.

>Anyone familiar with unorthodox/interesting reload material? Like home made tungsten penetrators, tracers, solid copper bullets? There was a DU thread posted a couple days ago, but I never got my questions about reloading answered. Hell, making 4 or 5 Uranium 308 rounds would be fucking awesome.

Many places doing CNC machining will have a box of tungsten carbide scrap, and many end mill manufacturers will standardize to something like 6mm shafts, so all end mills from 1 to 6 mm diameter will have the same 6mm shaft.

Tungsten carbide scrap is worth quite a bit of money, so nobody just throws it away, it is recycled into new endmills.
But whenever i see a box like that, i think that those would make some fancy penetrators for homemade ammo.

>I just couldn't figure out how i was gonna cut it.

You grind a notch with a grinding wheel, then break them in a vise with a hammer. Wrap a couple layers of thick fabric around, just in case something shatters. You don't want to get hit by tungsten shrapnell in the eye or something.
Since that shit is super hard, your normal grinding wheels for steel made from aluminium oxide won't work. They're too soft. You want the green silica wheels.

They usually break pretty clean, requiring minimal grinding into shape afterwards.

>I really just need to break down and buy a plasma torch.

Don't think that would work well.

>Tungsten that thin can be snapped off with pliers.

You do not seem to know the difference between tungsten and tungsten carbide.