How long would a plastic lower that was 3d printed last?

how long would a plastic lower that was 3d printed last?

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instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/
ivanthetroll.keybase.pub/tdp.html
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Depends on the gun, turbonigger

basic bitch AR in 5.56

Depending on the materials it could last a few decades. The lower does not get much stress at all.

Probably your lifetime if you used quality materials

None moving shit could last a while. I printed a charging handle that took a bit of a beating, handled about 50 charges before it finally gave out.

Depends how you do it. If you straight print off a standard lower, it won't hold up. You either need to add inserts or alter the design a little to shore up the weak points.

instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/

Entirely dependent these factors
>What Printer
>What process (FDM/SLA/SLS/DMLS)
>What materials
>What design (I have over 2 dozen different lower variants I could print just from creators I know)
>Layer adhesion
>testing scenario

That's true for most commonly available thermoplastics. Without getting into metal sintering, there are a few high-end material compounds that have similar tensile strength properties to aluminum. Depending on the machine and process used you might be able to straight up clone a standard aluminium-based AR lower that's very close if not better.

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Are there any 3D files for full upper, lower, and internal parts for guns? I unironically want to 3d print the entirety of a gun aside from springs, in plastic for purely educational purposes.

ivanthetroll.keybase.pub/tdp.html

Anyone know if there's a 3d printed frame for a hipoint c9?

Those are just blueprints, I'd have to model every single part myself. I was just wondering if anyone had any already done.

I know for a fact that a Guy is making one
"Code is Free Speech" on Twitter

Depends. This one lasted 600 rounds without failure. Generally they break right where the buffer tube attaches.

The defense distributed AR is an entire milspec parts set for reference. You could technically print them as models but obviously they wouldn't work ideally if at all if you want to shoot them.

Theres dozens on thingverse. You haven't even checked.

As for actual 3D printed guns, every single factor depends on you and you alone. Your printer, how well it's set up, what filament, what kind of filament, what brand of filament, how you stored it, how you printed it, what you do to the print after, and THEN you get to the actual design.
If you print a whole Warfairy Charon V1 it should last as long as you do. They simply dont fail, because it's a fucking brick.

Why bother, do a Glock.

Its on my list. I just did a shield and now I'm bidding on a sd9 parts. Was just curious about the hipoint.

1. 3d print AR lower
2. Cast it in sand
3. Melt aluminum and pour into casting
4. ???
5. Profit

If you're going to do something like that why would you do an AR
80% alum receivers exist and are plentiful

How long would something like this last?
Like a couple hundred rounds?
>RL556v3™ 80% AR15 Lower
There seems to be no feedback online for it

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Oh I honestly just intended to print out a full model out of plastic to study, I don't care if it actually does anything aside from show how the parts work mechanically as plastic pieces. The one thing I checked was the torrent full of the models that's being passed around here and there, but those were just lowers. Guess I'll check out thingverse, thanks.

I wouldnt use something with no feedback. It doesnt look terribly well reinforced. Could last 100 rounds. Could last 10,000.
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Has anyone found a 3d printed PDW that works? I have found several micro ronis and their variants online. They appear to be all for airsoft though or will not say if they work for the real thing.

boutta 3d print a bazooka

you can always cast it too.

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Sexy, where are the files for that lower?

pic related is only a couple of months away fron release iirc
pretty much the only DIY parts are the barrel (instructions for rifling included) and bolt, the only commercial parts are basically the springs and the trigger group (I think, or it might be DIY as well)

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