Using small amount of motor oil to coat rifle bolt?

I just put a tiny bit of mobil1 5w30 on my bolt for my 6.5 rifle and wiped off the excess with a paper towel so its only a thin film. Is this bad? Will motor oil make my bolt rust? Ive seen alot of ppl post that motor oil is just as good as any gun oil, if not better. In both car engines and rifle actions, its all about lubing up sliding metal.

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You should use as little oil as possible, only where metal meets metal. Like a drop for the entire gun. Using more oil than you need only cruds up your gun when it mixes with the carbon and powder.

motor oil is fine, might damage the finish on wood but functionally is fine

How to be wrong: the post

Use BALLISTOL like a white man, unless you are a filthy nigger.

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Yes user, it's fine. Fucking think about it dude.
>car uses oil to lube and protect steel from wear
>engine goes decades without rusting
>will it make my bolt rust?!
seriously man, come on.

You can use pretty much any oil you want on guns.
That's pretty much fuddlore. I've only once seen a gun quit working because of fouling, and it was a Glock that had gone over 10,000 rounds. It still worked actually, it just would get light primer strikes on harder primers. Striker channel was getting fouled up. Yes, the carbon will get all mixed up with your oil. But it won't make the gun quit working either. And it's often easier to clean then, since the fouling remains suspended in the oil, it just wipes away. Anyway case in point:
thefirearmblog.com/blog/2010/06/09/a-clean-wouldnt-hurt/
Guy doesn't clean AR for 15,000 rounds of dirty, dirty steelcase ammo. Just keeps lubing it up more. Works fine.

>Will motor oil make my bolt rust?
People usually aren't very keen on the idea of the engine in their car rusting away from the inside, so it shouldn't promote rust at least. It might not inhibit it to any major degree either beyond what any oil would do though, perhaps a gun oil would. It might not be optimised for quite the same temperature interval either, but something tells me the gun won't care unless we go to ridiculous extremes of oil selection and weather.

Hello former oil shop worker here.
Oil prevents rust. As long as it is actually oil on actually metal it will prevent rust until the oil washes away or evaporates. Oil will basically seal it.
That being said motor oil is extremely unpleasant on the hands and can get nasty quick.

>thefirearmblog.com/blog/2010/06/09/a-clean-wouldnt-hurt/
>works fine for 15k
>2 bolt lug breaks at 16k

Every firearm manual I've ever read advises against over lubrication. Not going to be convinced this is wrong by some noguns on 4chin.

I knew you'd go for that, and that's why I didn't say anything.

user, a bolt breaking at 16,000 rounds isn't some wild unheard of untimely catastrophic failure, especially if he was magdumping. Which seems pretty likely if you're putting 16,000 rounds of steelcase downrange. In fact, you can keep on shooting with multiple sheared lugs. It's why the AR has so many of them. Your ignorance is really showing.

But, he broke a $150 bolt, after firing $2880 dollars worth of ammo, without ANY cleaning, just slapping more lube on.

You putting a drop too much lube on and cleaning the gun afterwards won't hurt anything.

Motor oil is fine as a gun lubricant, just keep in mind it's not for cleaning, and isn't as great at preventing rust compared to CLP or actual gun lubes.
> Doesn't realize average Mil-spec bolt life is 12,000 rounds
> Thinks a failure at 125% avg is because of cleaning
Any excess oil in something like an AR is going to get thrown out in the first few rounds. This seems like fudd logic, somewhere between .45 stoppin' power and semi autos are only for killing people.

It'll be fine, you're worrying too much.

Try to use some more pleasant oil next time, 5w30 is gross.

Not him, but the more oil I have in my AR the more oil gets sprayed in my face. Otherwise I generally agree with you with the caveat that oils not rated for firearms use may cause problems not common with oils that are optimized for firearms. I have used motor oil but I have always cleaned afterwards. Protip: you can get enough oil off of your dipstick for HG rails without having to do anything fucky to get a small amount of oil from the car.

Those of us who have actually used ARs know the excess oil turns into a nice black sludge that creeps up on the bolt face, notwithstanding what happens if you are in a dirty environment. Running less of a good full synthetic oil like CLP or slip2000 that doesn't cook off or cake up like ballistol or conventional oil is definitely the way to go.

The real question is;

Synthetic, semi-synthetic or conventional?

look no further than the established tests car manufacturers have done regarding this question. Synthetic oils have superior properties in all aspects to conventional oils.

I don't trust 'em. I use 20W50 conventional in all my old cars and rifles.

Yep, what's good enough for my '89 Corvette is good enough for my 1911.

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>Yep, what's good enough for my '89 Corvette is good enough for my 1911.

based

Peak boomer and I like it.

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Motor oil is designed by engineers who make an entire career out making engines runs with as little friction as possible. Modern oil has specific components that can actually prematurely wear down your cam lobes and bearings. If you use the wrong one. An example would be zinc thats added.
None of this belongs in an AR15.
All thats needed is oil on moving parts. The carrier group, bolt, buffer spring, buffer, and specific parts of the trigger. That make contact with each other.
Just use gun oil made by CLC. Use the cleaner to clean, and wipe away. Then add oil. (If its good enough for the US Army in full auto M4s. Then its good for babbys AR, Ak, Nugget.)

An AR15 is very literally a piston engine. Retard.

Here, educate yourself.

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The bolt face / locking lug interface region with the chamber is a critical lubrication point in the AR platform. I'd be more concerned if it was dry. Given the "dirty" basic AR design and experiences in Iraq, the current prevailing school of thought is that Direct-Impingement rifles should be run wet in a dirty environment, with oil keeping dirt and firing residue in suspension for the duration of use. The filthy 14, and multiple YouTube examples of people shooting 5,000+ plus rounds without cleaning, and only applying more oil exemplify this logic as sound.
A continual presence of shooting residue outside of shooting or combat implies a lack of attention to detail to ones firearms, and if one thing is neglected, usually other things are as well. Like you said, people who have actually used AR's know this. It's an open system, and anything more than a generous film is going to be blown off anyway.
Given that even conventional oil today generally contains some amount of synthetic oil (You can go to BITOG and read about this if you truly want to know more), you could probably use anything you want. The cheapest available synthetic oil is fine though, if you really want to use motor oil on a gun.
Sorta, engines mostly run on hydrodynamic lubrication (there's an oil film, often pressurized, between parts), but guns are almost entirely in the boundary regime, where the nice oil film gets broken by debris, being blown off, etc. To make up for this, you add anti-wear/Extreme Pressure additives, which form low friction surface films. Motor oil has them, but dedicated gun oil like CLP, slip 2000, or FP 10 has it in a greater amount.

Whats better?

No its not.

These homemade tests and garbage are literally trash, theres no science or anything behind them and basically any moron who does or believes in this don't understand anything about it and they think their tests are proof that many of these lubricants don't protect against rust.

>1911
But not a 911.
Porsches are too good to accept non-synthetic faggotry

Yes, it is.

Its not, an engine has oil below the cylinders to lubricate the walls and rings. In AR-15's but likely not yours, you really shouldn't have oil behind the GAS piston. Also it might be obvious but maybe not to you that the Oil in a car was designed to be at a certain viscosity when the engine is at operating temperature of ~100C. The oil is designed to be at that temperature to adequately lubricate all the parts of the engine, the cylinders, the crank, the rod bearings, the valve train, everything.

My boy, keep on keepin on. And keep me posted.

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>hur the only type of engine goes in a car
retard, any autoloading rifle is very much an engine.

>Oil in a car was designed to be at a certain viscosity when the engine is at operating temperature of ~100C
Nigger people lubed their guns up with coconut oil and claimed it was miraculous. There is a science to it but the fact is largely it doesn't matter what you lube your gun with it'll work fine, won't wear prematurely, and you'll never know the difference. And the only people who say otherwise are people who are trying to sell you things, and people who believe them.

Reid Henrichs told me to use hi temp wheel bearing grease. Is it good?

>yea oil doesn't matter, I'm just gonna put 10w60 into my honda civic
>oh fuck why is it smoking
>oh shit thats right, my car called for 0w20 and 10w60 is a fuck ton thicker and now my rods are shot and my valve train is fucked. GRRRR why doesn't this work like my AR

>GRRRR why doesn't this work like my AR
Mostly because my AR is has a single piston, doing about 30 actions per minute, while my hypothetical civic has 4 pistons doing several hundred strokes per minute. In addition while operating my civic's engine also isn't going to ever get a chance to cool down. Also my civic's engine's pistons will operate more times in a single hour than my AR will in its entire lifetime

.And that's why your gun lube doesn't matter nearly as much as people seem to think. Its operational requirements aren't actually very demanding.

This.

Synthetic advantages are in vehicles, gears and hydraulics, not firearms. You are wasting money.
t. STLE CLP

You are ignorant and probably stupid..

>my hypothetical civic has 4 pistons doing several hundred strokes per minute
Something's wrong with your civic if it's only barely idling breh

>Sorta, engines mostly run on hydrodynamic lubrication (there's an oil film, often pressurized, between parts), but guns are almost entirely in the boundary regime, where the nice oil film gets broken by debris, being blown off, etc. To make up for this, you add anti-wear/Extreme Pressure additives, which form low friction surface films. Motor oil has them, but dedicated gun oil like CLP, slip 2000, or FP 10 has it in a greater amount.
NO.
Engine boundary lubrication is at the ends of cylinder travel and cam lobes. The slow piston speed where they reverse direction does not produce hydrodynamic lubrication, and the cams are small surface/ high load.
Firearms do not run in boundary lubrication because the metal to metal relative motion is a much lighter load than in internal combustion engine or hypoid gearset.
Keep AW oil away from your weapons.
jeezus

The engine operates hotter than 100C, dumbass. That's the coolant temperature. The head, especially the exhaust ports, runs much hotter.

eh. It's not bad, and designed to be in adirty environment. Does not need to be high temp. Check any manufacturer recommendations.

a machine for converting any of various forms of energy into mechanical force and motion

a machine with moving parts that converts power into motion.

An engine or motor is a machine designed to convert one form of energy into mechanical energy

a machine that uses the energy from fuel or steam to produce movement:

Now then, we have a pretty clear idea of what an engine does thanks to those handy definitions. It converts energy into movement. In a gas engine, it moves pistons by the combustion of gasoline. In an AR15, it harnesses gas pressure from the cartridge to move the bolt. An engine doesn't have to be connected to a crankshaft to be an engine you know. Or more likely you didn't until now. Again "hur the only kind of engine is the one in my car hurr"
RPMs isn't strokes per minute dork. Unless you're implying I should be flooring it everywhere, which, is fair, since it's a civic.

So you ARE both ignorant and stupid. That's fine; my posts are for everyone else.

shutup nogunz

I haz guns. And cars. And I know how to take care of each.

Care to explain how an AR isn't a piston engine then? Or just want to keep nogunz shitposting?

If you use the words direct impingement, I'll find you and choke you.

It's not bad, and it doesn't cause rust. Though your hands will get oily when you touch it.
The best imo is aerosols motorcycle chain lube. It creeps everywhere, lubricates, and doesn't attract dust.
Synthetic for engine and diff, conventional for synchromesh transmissions, whatever for tour guns.

In a very loose sense it is, but for one an ar doesn't have a forced oiling system so in terms of lube its very different.
They do have piston rings though

Yes, and its operation needs are more than met by motor oil.

OP I’ve used the following on bolt action and semi pistols and rifles, as well as pump and break open shotguns:
Balistol
CLP
Mobil 1
Hoppes regular
3 in 1
Rem Oil
Mineral oil (pic related)
I have never noticed any difference for lubing. Like you said, leave a light film of just about any oil and you’re good to go.
All of the above except mobil 1 and mineral oil will do a good job cleaning as well. They will clean ok in a pinch but not as good as the lighter oils.
My go to regimen over the past few years is clean with ballistol or CLP, wipe it dry as possible, then lube with a light film of mineral oil. I put a film on the outside parts as well. Never had any function issues, never had any rust.
Only reason I would say no to mobil 1 is unpleasant smell and mineral oil is cheaper.

forgot image

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ballistol lube is mineral oil

Motor oil in the summer. Motor oil/fuel oil in the winter. The Russian recipe.

yes motor oil is excellent

youtube.com/watch?v=pQuNgXqWPEo

WD40 to clean (wipe away thoroughly because it's still a light solvent and contains water)

Motor oil to lube.

This has worked better for me than anything marketed as gun cleaner/lubricant. These aren't difficult machines, they don't require special cleaners and oils.

amongst other natural oils, yeas.

Bump

>Using more oil than you need only cruds up your gun when it mixes with the carbon and powder.
YEAH. what you WANT is for all that carbon and powder that would get trapped in the oil to, instead, adhere to all the little crevices inside the internals of your gun's mechanisms in nice uneven lumps and ridges, providing a cushion of fuckery for everything to ride upon.

is it a laxative though?

>retard
The AR15 is designed for direct impingement. The gas is recycled from a hole in the barrel and travels backwards down a gas tube where it makes direct contact with the gas key.
Thus, pushing it back into the buffer tube. Where the buffer/spring bounce the carrier assembly back into the upper reciever. At no point is a piston used.

Pistons are used on AK pattern rifles.
With the exception of a few companies that built piston uppers like HK and LMT.

the bolt is the piston

>The AR15 is designed for direct impingement.
youtube.com/watch?v=ZYuuFSxcDTs

It's marketed for consumption in Europe, but the USA being as faggy as it is doesn't approve it.

it's been used for just that for over a century, and is in europe.

the bolt is the bolt.

This is accurate
This is flat out wrong. The piston would be used to regulate the gas that is dumped back into the upper reciever. To cycle the carrier group. The bolt is what locks into the chamber. This has very little to do with cycling a round. Eliminate the gas tube and one can still fire an AR15.( Just not in semi auto). The same is not possible by removing the bolt.
>Direct impingement
Recognized by an entire industry and the US Army, as being the correct technical term to explain the gas operating system for an AR pattern rifle.
(Some youtube star being edgy, says otherwise)

Based, but it is mineral oil. So be aware of that.

>This is flat out wrong.
No, it's not. You're just a retard who doesn't know how an AR works.
>(Some youtube star being edgy, says otherwise)
>edgy
user, you just don't know what direct impingement is.
>Recognized by an entire industry and the US Army, as being the correct technical term to explain the gas operating system for an AR pattern rifle.
The correct term to explain it to morons who you don't trust to take an AR bolt apart to see that it has a gas chamber inside of it, and that the bolt is used as a piston.

> Engine boundary lubrication is at the ends of cylinder travel and cam lobes. The slow piston speed where they reverse direction does not produce hydrodynamic lubrication, and the cams are small surface/ high load.
This is correct, hence "mostly hydrodynamic". It's also why friction modifiers are added to oil, the same FM's which can also serve EP/AW functions depending on type and amount present...

>Firearms do not run in boundary lubrication
You're going to have to back that up with some tribological studies, because the ones I've looked at basically confirm boundary interactions in a firearm environment. They're open systems; add firing residues and at best you'll get mixed lubrication, hydrodynamic isn't really a consideration in a gun. So much so is this that most of the "popular" gun oils use some type of AW/EP additive component, usually chlorinated compounds, TCP, ZDDP, Molybdenum's, PTFE, etc. BreakFree CLP for the longest time contained solid PTFE (They use some PFPE liquid now, but I digress). Film strength isn't everything, like cmon' this is basic stuff if we're going to talk about oil science. Un-additized base oils are not the end all be all.

You have to take into the environment that the gun is to be used in. In dry, dusty environments the dust will just stick to the oil and jam it up. I had my M4 jam up in a dust storm in Iraq because no one bothered to tell me to use graphite/dry lube. A jammed gun is just about the worst feeling you can have.

ATF would be better in every single way, and the detergents would aid in cleaning.

motor oil protects vehicle engines.
...think about it

Real Tribologist weighs in on gun lube.

youtube.com/watch?v=7J59Y1eHDus&t=456s

Dumbass.

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>Letting corporate America enslave you with addictive sugar-filled shitty drinks
Sad. Water, coffee, and green tea are the only liquids that you should ever drink.

>coffee

>tea
you are a slave to caffeine

anothers mans

It's fine. Motor oil is designed to lubricate metal, which is exactly what it will do to your gun. It does have engine cleaning additives as well, but they will not harm your gun.

In the future, I recommend Breakfree LP (not to be confused with CLP). It's very slick and does a great job lubing up guns.

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>Those of us who have actually used ARs know the excess oil turns into a nice black sludge that creeps up on the bolt face
Why do so many people still use this piece of shit gun? I noticed it also burns whatever oil you put in it and shoots it right the fuck up your nostrils.

I don't live in a brain frying white trash state so rust isn't an issue. What actually works good as lube? Essentially, what doesn't run off completely after being left in a safe for a few months?

Real lube employees fist fuck each other with used oil. Confirmed for not even changing your own oil. Post onions manlet hands.

Lots of things "work", user. What are you using now, and what's wrong with it?

>can get nasty quick
I've noticed this about motor oil. It seems like it's designed to grab grit/soot and make it stick to it. This is good for engines because it keeps the shit out and isolated to the oil, which gets changed regularly (hopefully). That doesn't seem good for guns, especially ARs. Motor oil gunks it up real quick.

I'm trying mineral oil next. I refuse to buy snake oil (gun company bullshit).

Motor oil. It smells like shit when actually being shot and it doesn't last as long as I'd like it to. It also seems to build up into a crud. Not excessively bad (like fucking frog lube, they might as well call it frog glue) but more than actual branded gun lubes. I don't think it's better and don't know why so many people recomend it.

Then there's also the people saying it has microscopic metals in it that could wear my gun...

> So much so is this that most of the "popular" gun oils
Yeah. It's marketing. It's a waste of money at best for gun oil.
You seriously think a chlorinated oil is good in a firearm? Your post reads like you looked up some terms online and are now an expert.

He is paid to push expensive gun oil.
His test rig is a simplified 4-ball test, which has nothing to do with the kind of wear happening in a firearm.

Motor oil is supposed to remove particulates so the filter can remove it.
Does you forearm have a filtered circulating oil system?

Try FP-10, Slip-2000 (Very Popular), or Lucas Extreme Weapons Oil. If you're having issues with crud build up, try Strike Hold (Be warned- it's nasty smelling stuff; but leaves a dry lubricating film behind). You might also try Prolong SPL-100 or Super Lube Multipurpose spray.
Straight mineral oil can contain dissolved water, and cause rust. It's also awful in cold weather, put that bottle of mineral oil in the freezer and tell me you actually want that in your guns. For the same price you can get a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, which actually has some RO/AW additives in it.
I'm still waiting on those studies.
> Chlorinated Paraffin / Esters / etc.
Firearms are open systems that see generally low moisture levels, and are cleaned/re-lubricated often; any incidental acidic reaction products that form via the Iron(III) chloride film which retards wear are going to be neutralized almost immediately by other chemicals in the oil, usually a calcium/sodium sulfonate of some kind. I can go really in depth if you want, but unless you have a STEM background you're going to be bored out of your mind. You can even get away with chlorinated additives it in sealed systems like car engines, but it's not as ideal; guns are one of the few instances outside of machining it actually works very well.

I use a very light mount - as in the amount that would fit on a qtip- of Lucas Red Tacky grease for my bolts and whatnot.

Reject Modernity. Return to Tradition.

I seriously just use red & tacky on high wear parts and light coat of this shit on all other metal surfaces. I don't use any solvents because I clean my guns everytime I shoot them.

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This is better than a damn .45 vs 9mm thread...

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Wtf is EEZOX and where can I get it?

I wouldn't do it.

Motor oil contains solvents that over a very long period of time can undermine the structural integrity of the weapon.
It's made for contact with shit loads of oxides and nitrogen. Use molyb grease or fucking gun oil if you don't intend to use it often because it's made to retain enough surface tension to stick to cold metal all day, unlike motor oil......

>rpm isn't strokes per minute dork
that's even worse though, you get 4 strokes per 1 revolution of the crankshaft so your "several hundred" strokes per minute is "several hundred"/4 engine RPM like nigga do you even idle

>on topic
I've used motor oil in my AR15 before. Works. Smells horrendous. Better than no lube, not as good as weapon oil. I clean my guns when I'm done with them so can't say how it holds up vs rust.

2 strokes per 1 revolution, I'm retarded

What's the safest gun cleaner / lube to use?

I mean that from a human health standpoint. A lot of this shit is absolutely awful for you. It soaks into your skin. It's carcinogenic. It's literally killing you. I think that's a big reason a lot of old timer gun enthusiasts look years older than they are. They've been soaking up solvents and toxic gun cleaning substances for their entire lives.

What's a product that will do the job but that won't give you cancer?

use gloves if you're worried

Yeah, unfortunately you're more retarded than you think, you have it backwards.

start at top dead center
Intake stroke: pull fuel air mix into cylinder, piston ends at bottom dead center
Compression stroke: piston ends at top dead center (revolution = 1)
Power stroke, piston ends at bottom dead center
Exhaust stroke, piston ends at top dead center (revolution = 2)

unless I completely misunderstand how a 4 stroke works