Need advice on beat hunting rifle under $1000

Need advice on beat hunting rifle under $1000.

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Weatherby in 7mm rem mag. Itll drop anything in North America

>What game are you hunting
>Where are you planning to hunt (eg, fields, close quarters, mix of both, etc)
>What's your experience hunting
>Does this $1k include scope, or not.

You need to provided more details, OP.

Tc compass in 6.5 or 308.

Deer, caribou, elk, maybe a moose.
Scope included in the $1000.
Only hunted a few white tail with a shotgun. Planning a trip to either maine or alaska.

This is very good, but with 1000 bucks you can find a pre-06 Remington 700 with a decent scope on it.
Thats what I recommend to anyone looking for a bolt rifle in that price range.
7mmRemMag is a great cartridge choice as well.
30-06 is also a good pick.
300WinMag is another option to consider.
Anyone who suggests anything other than a pre-06 R700 is a Tikka/Sako fincuck yuropoor larper.

>Deer, caribou, elk, maybe a moose.
hmm..ok..well a 300 win mag can do it all, but would be a little overkill for mule deer that are typically killed under 200 yards...30-06 covers all four critters quite nicely. 300wsm is a lighter rifle with 300 winmag recoil, so unless you have win mag experience I don't recommend it. 308/6.5 creed will drop the first two easy but "bullet placement" on the elk/moose with a 308/6.5 is required and the chances of an unethical kill and/or wounding the game go up significantly.

7mm/30-06 is probs best bet. 7mm is a flat shooter but for every little shit town that stocks ammo they usually have 30-06 ammo compared to having 7mm.

>Scope included in the $1000.
Although vortex is usually the go-to, I recently found out about the nikon prostaff line with the BDC reticle. Nikon has a webtool that will match your bullet/scope combo to the appropriate BDC points on the reticle AND at different magnifications.

EG:
you buy a nikon prostaff p5 2.5-10x52 BDC and have a 30-06. Then go here:
nikonsportoptics.com/en/nikon-products/hunting-spoton/index.page
>sight in for 100, and you have the scope at a 9x setting
>you're shooting 180 gr nosler partitions, going at 2700 fps with a BC of 0.474
>cross hairs are 100 yards,
>1st drop is 204 yards
>2nd is 302
>3rd is 387
>4th is 505
A simple hold over with no scope adjustment? gtg in my books.

2/2


>Only hunted a few white tail with a shotgun. Planning a trip to either maine or alaska.
Go with whatever rifle feels super comfy to you and buy a scope that you love looking through. Then do this:

1) take off the rail (if it came with one) and clean with acetone
2) clean every damn screw with acetone
3) clean every screw hole with a q-tip and acetone
4) where the rail will go (or ring mounts), clean with acetone
5) clean your rings with acetone
6) clean the area where your scope will be held with the rings with acetone
7) place your rail on the receiver and blue loctite the screws to the torque setting
8) install the ring bases, push them forward and blue loctite the screws
9) install the scope, find a comfy eye relief distance, and then install the top half of the rings and blue loctite the screws
10) sight in the scope according to ryan cleckner and the NSSF on youtube.

I'm not going to suggest a rifle. I've had a ruger scout, a rem 700, a savage 110, a lee enfield, and currently have a winchester M70 in 300wsm and two tikkas (both t3x's, a lite and ctr chambered in 308), they all fit differently. 90% of the rifles give you 1 MOA accuracy with is fine for hunting. You got to find the rifle that fits YOU.

>this is coming from someone that has pissed away thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours to find out this info.

respectfully user, learning how to use a proper ranging reticle and a ballistic calc with standard elevation pressures you can print your tables off of is going to be a lot more accurate than going off a bdc reticle at an unknown pressure. It's a lasting skill and you can apply it really well in hunting.

Basically this.
$1000 is really an unnecessary sum these days. We are spoiled with the amount of quality, relatively cheap bolt actions on the market.
Savage, Ruger, Howa, Weatherby, TC, Tikka...
Same for optics really
Vortex, Burris, Redfield, Primary, Nikon...

$1000 should get you rifle, bipod, sling, scope, mount and a box of ammo.

I fully agree, my 300wsm has a vortex razor in mil-rad and the CTR in 308 has a bushnell elite 6500 with a mil-dot reticle.

However, OP made no metion of learning how to shoot long ranges (600 yards+). In such a case simply finding a suitable reticle in rads or minutes is super easy but is a whole other conversion.


Most hunting situations are under 300 yards and a BDC reticle is fine (unless you've got 20 MPH winds going on). Wind plays a very little factor and corealis plays virtually NO factor in those shots.

nvm, just differe t way of goimg about it

Yeah ...I know. I wish there was some sort of guidance I could have had before killing my time and bank account. :(

I took two long range shooting classes last september which really got me into this sport and will be taking three more this september to finish off the "guidance"
I've got ryan cleckners book...do you have any other titles I should take a look at?

not op but do people think I should just buy a ruger american predator or get an x-bolt. x-bolts look pretty nice and it’s probably going to be my one do everything rifle that I keep 5ever

I dont know your guy specifically but you know more than I thought at first with
Id have to hang out with you to know whats missing and I doubt youre in my state since Im one of the few here into it and long range isnt a necessity here. You might very well be fine.
I like Nathan Foster's books other than the hornady and bedding goo he uses shilling but he knows what hes talking about, hornady does make good stuff, his goo is quality but devcon is life, and applying long range rifles to game hunting along with details plus general rules that are useful in the field if short on time to make a shot.
Like I said, you might be fine already. Just a different way of going about getting an entry person into shooting 500 or so yards. I personally cant stand anything BDC but I know they can work.
>I wish there was some sort of guidance I could have had before killing my time and bank account
I lucked out and knew a rich retired boomer who was internet savvy to make the mistakes for me on his dime and show me what worked.
Do you handload?

Also, Im not entirely with him on twist rates.

I do, yes. Rcbs rockchicker supreme, rcbs dies for the 300wsm and redding for the 308's + a 2 thou neck bushing. I mainly fuck with the 308's, sitting them just a hair over 2.800", using imr4064 powder and berger hunting vld's (hybrid ogive ftw)...cant remeber the charge off the top of my head, but ime using federal 210m primers along with lapua brass.

Cleaning is a wet tumblers, F.A with the pins using dawn dishsoap. If that shits good for oil covered baby ducks then vleaning the brass is ok.

Driv8ng and heading to work, ill be monitoring and replying as i can

>308/6.5 unethical for elk/moose
T. Doesnt hunt
A proper bullet will give no different results than anything else.
6.5 with a partition will kill far better than a 300wm with a varmint or target bullet.
You can drive through shoulders and similar without issue. Pick a premium bonded bullet and a 308, 6.5, 7mm, even 243 will kill elk and moose. Pick a bad bullet and all of them can fail, even with decent shot placement.

Howa 1500 in 6.5cm is best

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Im using a savage axis 2 chambered in 25-06 w/ a weaver scope. around that 1000$ CAD mark.

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Yup, no doubt that the 308/6.5 creedmor can do that all that to drop an animal, given proper placement. I bet a 22 long rifle would be more economically viable if we're going to go down that route.

I'm sure that if it was better at delivering massive hydrostatic shock to rupture the blood flow in the lungs, every tom dick and harry in the yukon and alaska would dump their large 30 cal guns for the 6.5 creedmor. There's a reason why people choose to "use enough gun".

your argument would carry more weight if you didn’t go to the extremes. 22 lr is obviously only going to kill the smallest game. if you’re in alaska, obviously use something big. Clearly you’re butthurt as hell by creedmoor, but there’s no need for absurd extremes as a logical fallacy. your argument fucking blows

>every tom dick and harry in the yukon and alaska would dump their large 30 cal guns
If you want to use a 6.5mm bullet on big game you totally can, you just want to use a more powerful round. Same can be said for 7mm too

You can get a new Remington 700 in 7mm Remington for about $750 that leaves you kinda tight for a scope, but you can swing it.

I use a 225 eldm and before that a 215gr berger target hybrid with dead upon impact results. Wheres your partition god now?

Yet out here in Montana the majority of people aren't using magnum rounds for elk. As bullet selection has gotten better and rounds can drive through an elk at almost any given angle no one wants to be battered with the recoil.
Even the people using magnums arent usually using 30 cal magnums most seem to be using 7mm, like myself. The only thing you really gain from a magnum anymore is increased pbr, and increased range for expansion.