/avg/: audio video general

audio general /ag/, video, & /am/ audiophile memes.

What's your setup?
What setup are you working toward?

*Please keep /ag/ in future OPs so people with old filters can find it.

Last thread:

Attached: audio-general-better-records3.jpg (1300x1015, 177K)

Other urls found in this thread:

bmsspeakers.com/index.php?id=coaxial_neodymium_compression
ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM2/srm2.html
ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/cmt340m/cmt340m.html
ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/cmt340m/cmt340mspecs.html
zaphaudio.com/nondomes/
stlouis.craigslist.org/ele/d/bose-201-series-iii-bookshelf/6576246034.html
stlouis.craigslist.org/ele/d/bose-301-series-iv-bookshelf/6576233862.html
bagend.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/PM-6.pdf
stereophile.com/content/kef-q350-loudspeaker-measurements
ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM1/srm1meas.html
tektondesign.com
soundstagenetwork.com/measurements/speakers/ascend_sierra1/
xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html
crownaudio.com/how-much-amplifier-power
emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/a-100
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Consider a KEF Q350, which is around that.

Also ELAC UB5 is a good option.

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Must be this: bmsspeakers.com/index.php?id=coaxial_neodymium_compression

Just stop.

KEFs are good

2004ish verbatim headphones for $10 with volume control

handmade speakers from the 70s and some sony speakers from the year 2000 and a sony TV hifi amp from 2001.

optimal setup

for record player I use a fosgate car amplifier as a pre-amp powered by a computer PSU.

>Want to upgrade my HVL-1s to better match HSU sub
What should I even be looking for? My speakers, despite being relatively inexpensive, sound phenomenal as far as I'm aware/concerned.

If you are happy, why change speakers? What do you mean "match" your HSU sub? You think they won't be able to keep up with the output and want to go louder?

>Won't be able to keep up with the output
Yes, pretty much. As for why I want to change speakers, I'd like to give them to my father so he'll stop using shitty television speakers.

ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM2/srm2.html

That's nice of you. What's your budget and which HSU subwoofer did you get?

Also is this for home theater or two channel?

Looking for suggestions within ~1,000 dollar range. I have the HSU VTF-15H Mk 2

Two channel. Used for music, movies, etc.

That user that earlier recommend Ascend I think had the right idea in this price range, but I'd go for these instead:
ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/cmt340m/cmt340m.html
ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/cmt340m/cmt340mspecs.html

I don't think the ribbons are really worth the expense as soft domes outperform them for far less money ( zaphaudio.com/nondomes/ ) and these have some great sensitivity for powering them with a modest amplifier. They also measure pretty good if we are trusting manufacturers (which Ascend has historically been very good about).

Thank you! I'll read more into these CMT-340s

Looking for speakers. Current headphones HD600 and ER4SR. Looking for the focal alpha 50, are they a good pick?

At least look at the picture before you answer

The screws are transport screws, they keep the chassis locked to the plinth when you move it around. Scew them clockwise and they should release the chassis so it rests on a set of springs.
You've bought yourself a record changer. The arm is for stacking records for automatic play and the large plastic thingie with the metal rod is the large diameter changer spindle used for 45's with large holes, you're probably missing the the smaller one for normal holes. Dual turntables (10xx and 12xx series) have a very similar similar system, google it.

Get rid of the frog you twat

See

>Get rid of the frog you twat
Sorry. Thought it was funny.

Here is a frog-less version for another time.

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Is GIK the best for premade acoustic panels?

RPG inc. is absolute reference for acoustics

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>can't buy them online
why do companies do this to themselves?

They sell through distributors, the old way. Most of that type of shit gets sold through contractors that get hired to build a studio or whatever, not DIYers.

Q350 off-axis is nice and smooth, all things considered. Could use some EQ to flatten the response though.
I want a Blade so I can mess around with the low-mid x-over, just to see how much could be improved.

For the finishing?

Kef's R300 is nice.

>For the finishing?
I guess just all around value and performance. A mixture. I looked at DIY ones because it is just that owens corning 703 stuff but I'm not very handy.

Is it a good idea to pair a Kenwood Model Eleven II with a B&W CDM 1?

Hlw the fuck do I know if the Kenwood is good enough for them?

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You should be okay at moderate volumes. So for a small room it will be fine. The B&W CDW 1 isn't too difficult of a load. 60watts @ 8-ohms should be fine. You'll be amplifier limited, but if you are smart about when you crank it and notice clipping just back off.

GIK is good, but I'd go local to save on shipping costs, unless you live in the middle of nowhere. Most acoustic panel makers offer a consultation service where they send someone over, do measurements for custom panels and give an acoustic treatment plan/options for the room.

Dear Jow Forumsentoomen, I'm a poorfag looking for speakers for a tv/monitor. I'd like it for movies and music. Between the two, which should I choose?
stlouis.craigslist.org/ele/d/bose-201-series-iii-bookshelf/6576246034.html (A little worn but I can clean it up)
Or
stlouis.craigslist.org/ele/d/bose-301-series-iv-bookshelf/6576233862.html

Small room by the way

what about the Q150?
the Q100 at least was considered superior to the Q300, i wonder if the same applies to the new generation

Wat cheapish subwoofer to cop for my pickup /avg/? Is sony gud? I generally trust their products..

>mfw the older audio general is better

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>Those logitech speakers
It's baffling every time I see someone recommend those.
>Oh yeah, you should totally get them! The bass is incredible! I turn it up to max volume and I can hear it real loud!

Buy
Other
Stereo
Equipment

Bad
Or
Sad
Experience

Better
Off
Somewhere
Else

For me I'd rather have the 6.5" on the 350 for more midbass headroom. I think some of that will depend what type of music you listen to and how loud, but the larger drivers also seem to blend better with subwoofers too (because of a bit more extension)

Disclaimer is I've only listened to the Q100 and the Q350, never the Q300 or Q150, so I'm shooting a bit blind here. If I was buying for myself though, I'd heavily weigh into the 350.

My gripe with the whole Q line is I find them to be a bit lacking in the midbass clarity at higher volumes, I think the nature of a small speaker trying to do a lot (ported). That's not to say they aren't great speakers and a heck of a deal. Everything has some negatives. I think the larger driver coupled with a reasonable crossover frequency will help tame that a lot.

Actually one of the things I love about my Bag End monitors ( bagend.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/PM-6.pdf ) is that they have a similar approach to the Qs but in a sealed enclosure - they are about 850USD each now but of course you don't need an amplifier for them.

JL Audio has some inexpensive stuff now. w0 and w3s, the latter being higher performance but a bit more money.

You might want to see if /o/ has a car audio thread.

Look for old M&K, B&W, Paradigm, Klipsch, Boston Acoustics, Definitive Technology.. I'm tired so forgetting a lot of options.

In the mid 90s and early 00s people bought bookshelf speakers from brands like that a ton and now they are all over eBay and Craigslist. It's a great time to snatch up small bookshelf speakers because everyone is trading them for their Sonos or whatever the fuck.

Kek, I know the headphones were overpriced but I was hoping these cheap speakers were fine
Thanks, I might be able to snag some B&W's for free

>VTF-15H MK II played such a subtle car rumble it sounded like it came from outside

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What are those squiggly things taht are all around that room?

I'm just assuming here, but the kid probably thinks they diffuse the sound waves.

radio wave diffractor

Anyone - did they just reboot 4ch? WTF goes on here? Music? Sound??

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The KEF isn't just coaxial, but (spatially) coincident. The center of the midrange cone and tweeter are in the same point in space. It has more in common with the designs from Elac and TAD; Andrew Jones took his development of the coincident driver with him.
So far, I think modern KEF and Genelec have better results.
>nature of a small speaker trying to do a lot
The design works its best in a three-way. Woofer doesn't even have to be that big, it just needs a separate driver from the midrange-tweeter coax.
That wouldn't address bass range issues though.

Honestly, the Q350 looks pretty good as is. I doubt that Q150 would improve much, if at all.
stereophile.com/content/kef-q350-loudspeaker-measurements

Has a small but broad treble scallop, but smooth radiation pattern. A little tone control can remedy that.
Port standing resonance is uncomfortable large.

Huh. Their ANC headphones are likely their best product.

I Like Sound!

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Elaborate.

Seriously, I've heard Good Sound!

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Seems like 4Ch did a reboot - there's not even one headphone thread!

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Ah! Got It! A Bunch of Chepskates - can only afford a phone. Hey! Tip of the day: AudioTechnia ATH-50x

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Are tape head demagnetizers a meme or are they actually useful?

On a Hentai Board? Pleez....

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Why do so many audiophiles say headphones>speakers for the same price? I haven't used my headphones at all since i bought my speakers, they're more enjoyable to listen to and just as good, if not better when it comes to detail and separation/imaging (even though my cans are semi-open). Both costed about the same. I've "compared" them to a couple of other cans too.
I am getting convinced that headphones are a meme unless you don't want to make noise.

>Audiophiles
They're memeing children if you're referring to /hpg/

Yeah, it felt wrong typing audiophiles. It's mostly /hpg/ and the autists over at head-fi.
Also, speakers look infinitely sexier.

Their parents dont want them playing those damn devil music too loud.

Anyone familiar with using atmos on their pc? At first I thought if was working but it was just the atmos speakers mixing in with the fronts.
It seems the only media player that can play atmos it the default ones that comes with windows 10.
Tried the 3 atmos games I have and out of bf1, tomb raider and AC origins... Only bf1 worked for a little bit. Bf1 has an atmos toggle while the other 2 games don't. When I first toggled it on it worked and I went into a match. Had only the atmos speakers on along with the sub and I got no sound. From there I assumed it was cause there were no over head sounds in the match. Left the game, entered another and the atmos toggle was greyed out and the speakers were playing a mix of front sounds.
When atmos works, it's amazing. I tested everything with only the atmos speakers plugged in to make sure I wasn't just getting the placebo effect. It legit sounds like shit is happening overhead and adds depth to the sound.
I just wish I can get a different media player like mpc-hc or vlc to play atmos movies properly. I'd also like to play games that have atmos on pc.
Don't get me wrong, even when the content I'm viewing doesn't support atmos, the receiver doesn't seem a great job at mixing the atmos speakers with the fronts for a more fuller sound. Unfortunately I didn't buy it for that, I bought it for actual atmos content.

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Okay I have a weird setup I want to update.

End result is I want (2+) volume knobs physically on my desk that I can pipe different sources into, mix them and then output into either A: headphones or B:moniters

I currently use two usb dacs fed into a passive mixer which feeds into a physically soldered switch that goes to A or B. The biggest problem I have right now is that the dac's are usb powered and my attempts to decouple 5v+ground lines from the pc have been in vain. I can hear the computer work. Benchmarks, scrolling, anything I can physically hear the computer churn when the room is quiet.

I would like to have some system that windows see's two separate audio devices (and thus I can assign programs to either device and mix on the fly) but I would like to do it without the noise. I've been a cheap-ass and have tried doing everything from adding caps, running grounding line to every piece of equipment, splicing usb power. I need something better.

>The KEF isn't just coaxial, but (spatially) coincident. The center of the midrange cone and tweeter are in the same point in space
Yeah, that's the same as the Bag Ends.

I'd really like to hear those new Genelecs "The Ones" - extremely expensive though.

Headphones take the room out of the equation, although I'd argue near field monitors do a pretty good job of that too because the amplitude of the direct sound is so much less than the reflected in that sort of setup. My problem with headphones is even the super expensive ones suck at imaging, even when people do "tricks" like crossfeed (to me that just centers the "in your head soundstage" problem rather than fix it). They are great for travel and great for listening when you live with other people you'd like to drone out or not disturb. Jow Forums is pretty young so that's a lot of the chan population. You'll notice when people post pictures here in audio general it looks like a lot of them are living in their own place rather than in a bedroom at their parents house (not that there is anything wrong with that at a young age).

I have those.
I am not happy

So you could take the analog outputs of the two DACs and then feed them into something like a DJ mixer which has a crossfader to blend them. Each channel will have a volume also, so you could leave the crossfader centered and then adjust that way. Then DJ mixers have outputs and also a headphone output and you can toggle them or have them both on at the same time.

Are they really lauded here? I haven't seen those mentioned but I admit I only hang in /ptg/ and this thread.

Have any opinions on the Sierra 1's?
ascendacoustics.com/pages/products/speakers/SRM1/srm1meas.html

The real reason for liking headphones more almost certainly has more to do with learning to love budgetary and living constraints.
Certainly, you can spend more on loudspeakers and room acoustics to get real results, instead of pissing away money on useless headphone tweaking.

But there's an element of preference.
There's not much of a room reflection factor to deal with headphones, and all the bass unevenness in rooms gets turned into treble peaks and dips in headphones. The treble issues are way more likely to offend than the bass problems.
Bass extension and infrasound are easier to get out of headphones, but you don't feel it beyond your head, and it is very dependent on tight fitting enclosures.
Binaural recordings theoretically have more potential than any surround speaker set up. The biggest problem is that the recording needs to be made with your head in the first place. So far, practical implementations are just trying to copy speaker setups. Crosstalk cancellation will let you use speakers for binaural as well.

Anyone know about: tektondesign.com

That user I was talking to about midsized home theater speakers these look kinda interesting.

Not for those with trypophobia.

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The -2s curve up around 10kHz and might come off a bit bright, the -1 measure more flat. The -2 horizontal offaxis response is better than the -1s which is a factor in home theater with a three seater couch but less so in a single person monitoring application. The -1 has better vertical off axis response. So if you go with the -2 you need to be sitting ear level, if you go with the -1 you'll want them to be pretty much pointed at you for best results.

I still prefer the CMT-340s really. They have pretty good horizontal off axis response up to 15+ deg, and not awful after that. Vertical is extremely good so you could be pretty liberal about their height placement if needed.

I'm losing track of who is who, what are you planning to power these speakers with?

hah, no shit! Look at some of their smaller stuff though.

For the time being, an Onkyo TX 8020. Can possibly be powered with Pioneer SX 727 (after I test it, clean it up). There were a few other amps I was looking to upgrade to, but I'll have to get back to you on those as I don't have access to my bookmarks at the moment. Thanks for you opinion by the way.

>Sierra-1
3rd party measurements. Note that they have issues measuring below 100Hz accurately.
soundstagenetwork.com/measurements/speakers/ascend_sierra1/

Looks to have a little midrange disconnect. Baffle compensation issue?
A little bit of off-axis pinching near the crossover, but doesn't seem too bad. Has a worse case of upper end beaming than desirable.
I can't help but feel there should be a better option out there.

How much gain can be expected from 24 bit/96kHz over 16 bit/48kHz or 44.1kHz considering the dramatic file size difference?

You should expect no improvement based on the container of the file.
However, the 24/96 stuff may be mixed differently. In this case, you should dither and convert your file down.

"The Ones" are very good. But I can't tell if they are better than KEF or not, because I haven't tested them under the same conditions. I have more trust in KEFs design than Genelec, but Genelecs DSP is a powerful tool.

Yes, this is way better. It triggers me a lot more :D

Bryston, was really close on buying one of those 4b3. One of the few audio brands that I really trust.

in today's time it is meaningless to convert 24bit studio master file to 16bit since CD age is over and this only degrade quality.

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That speaker looks very interesting. It's so wrong in some ways, but it could be just perfect in other ways. I can't imagine that there will be a lot of distortion in the top with so many tweeters.

That speaker has way bigger problems than the frequency response.

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Sup Jow Forums,

I'd like to edit video on the go. That's all. It doesn't need to be a powerhouse, some basic things with maybe a bell and whistle. What laptop/tablet can you recommend that won't cost me my leg?

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90 dB at 2 meters away, 4π. The issues with bass measurement make the low-frequency distortion look worse than it is. These are less audible also, and a subwoofer would be better for that LF response.
As for the midrange distortion bump, subs won't help. But the output is already fairly high for the 5-inch driver.
I suggested looking for a different speaker before getting to that point.

Undithered sine. Quantization error is thus periodically generated. You are supposed to dither the result.
Anyway, listening is about what can be heard, not how pretty the waveform is.

Wave transmission is nearly linear for ordinary SPL. The sheer number of tweeter should help keep output in the linear range with greater output.
The problems are of sound radiation. It seems questionably integrated.

>As for the midrange distortion bump, subs won't help. But the output is already fairly high for the 5-inch driver.
Yes, That's the problem. Small speakers are for cucks

>Big drivers can't produce a good midrange

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interesting how the cheaper model is much more neutral

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whats better, 1 good big sub or 2 smaller cheaper subs?

I'm not sure quoted bro implied that at all

Not really I thing.
I suppose most people here know those logitechs suck.

The answer will always be "it depends". But personally I'd take the larger subwoofer in most cases. Unless we're talking dual ported 12" vs sealed 15", take the better (bigger?) one

>>Get rid of the frog you twat
>Sorry. Thought it was funny.

Frog is better, keep the frog.

Thinking about it a little more, it's not a well-behaved speaker even for that size. A carefully made 5-inch woofer shouldn't have those midrange issues.

2 works better for coverage, assuming you have the freedom to position them.
It would be the better way if both go down to the same frequency, which usually isn't the case.
You can buy cheap subs with a large woofer to get better bass distribution, like the Dayton Audio poorfag subs.

>How much gain can be expected from 24 bit/96kHz over 16 bit/48kHz or 44.1kHz considering the dramatic file size difference?
None. xiph.org/~xiphmont/demo/neil-young.html

See above.

No, frogposters should be gassed

They are certainly more expensive.

No problem! That Onkyo is only 50w and not 4-ohm stable. In practice with reasonable volume levels you'll probably be okay, but at movie volumes that power supply will run out of gas pretty quick. 340s seem to be the easiest to drive (Ascend recommends a minimum of 35w which you'd meet), the bookshelves are minimum of 45w though and that is pushing it a bit since I doubt the Onkyo makes an actual 50w all channels driven. Wit the 340s I'd probably shoot for 200wpc+ if you can, although most receivers are more like 150. Remember that not enough amplifier power is often more dangerous than too much, clipped signal is a speaker killer. Too big of an amp you obviously have to be careful with the knob but that's a lot safer. I generally take the IEC (continuous power) and double it to determine ideal amplifier size. So if a speaker calls for 150 watts continuous power I run a 300 watt amp or thereabouts for lots of headroom. ( crownaudio.com/how-much-amplifier-power )

Out with you bigotry!

What's a good, small amp for two 15-25W 8ohms speakers?

I have no idea how to search desu. And what I find is incredibly expensive.

I just want a small box on my desk, as I use these speakers near my pc. I don't need a long list of options or a million inputs

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emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/a-100

Why KEF Q350 instead of Focal Alpha 50? I know no shit about speakers market