/ag/ &/am/: audio general & et cetera

Mid-week is Nice Edition

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Other urls found in this thread:

roger-russell.com/mcintosh1.htm#autoformer
bagend.com/products/series/active-bass-trap/
ceneo.pl/
avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/996973-small-theater-build-threads.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

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I always wanted to like the Focals but they always fall flat to me.

...the pun was unintentional.

postin some of my shit, do lots of thrifting and shit

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All the thrift stores near me are pure trash. I'm envious of people that can get deals at them.

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I've been doing this about 5 years and you have to go often. I flip alot of it.

>pic unrelated, this one was all bought off audiogon about 10 years ago and my "keeper"

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speakers look like low tier pleb trash

Does anyone have the picture of the gray-haired man with glasses and headphones satisfyingly smiling at his 2006-2008 MacBook Pro, as some meme audio equipment including large cables lie on the desk next to him?

very nice

solid

whoa, except for the speakers

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i think a lot of times Focal towers are not sufficiently powered

i wish i could have Focals and an asian qt walking around the house

RARE

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I fucking swear these newer vinyl players have nothing on the vintage high end models.

They do, but you have to spend a couple grand for a good one.

I didn't know a post could be so wrong

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hard to see much in the other pic

Yeah it’s sad when you see some nice but harder to drive tower being powered by an average receiver

Roast me

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What are those tiny baby speakers?

Q acoustics 3020

I have some of those Ikea bookshelves. I love those. I put it together with better hardware than was included and it has lasted a long time. You'd get a lot better sound if you pulled those speakers out of that and placed them more purposefully, but you probably know that.

Careful storing your records, they will warp when leaning over like that under their own weight.

In reply to the last post in the prior thread...McIntosh uses what they call "Autoformers" which are their own flavor of output transformers for each channel. They still use them in many of their amps, but not all had them.

roger-russell.com/mcintosh1.htm#autoformer

Oh and keep your eyeballs out for deals. I got that amp for $225. Obviously it needed work but it was still a steal. Don't mind the goop...I was removing surface rust.

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If you build a custom home theater and have no friends, is there an advantage to having the space be smaller so I can run smaller speakers - or is there an acoustical advantage to large spaces?

Also what are ideal room dimensions?

I wish I was remotely handy and not so worthless. So many deals to be had with something that just needs a $5 part replaced. I probably couldn't even manage to recone a speaker, let alone recap one.

>What are ideal dimensions
Whatever suits your needs. If something smaller is all that you need, build that. Plan ahead for the future so you don't end up with something that doesn't work for you.

Should I buy the Hifiman HE-500 secondhand? I heard that they break really easily but based on the reviews I've been reading they're everything I want from headphones aside from being stupidly heavy and fragile

here you go pham

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People have made 3D printed replacements for the HE-500 if I recall correctly.

I thought there are some ideal ratios for rooms? And then was wonder if I build the room to that then if I build the wall out for the screen and speakers it would change the room dimensions...

>is there an acoustical advantage to large spaces
Acoustics is all about size and geometry.
So, there is more room to place subwoofers and large speakers, more room to fiddle around with speaker placement and place broadband absorbers, resonator traps, and diffusers.
Room modes will be longer in wavelength, which usually makes for less bass variation for some given distance.
>Also what are ideal room dimensions?
Cannot be easily calculated beyond rectangular rooms.
Room modes are inevitably screwed up by placing large furniture in the room. This does not exclude large speakers.
The general idea is to try and avoid multiple axial resonances stacking up in one place, at one frequency (superposition). Depending on where the speakers are, these may not be excited evenly, or in phase with the other.

I know of several room ratios (1:2.2:3, 1:1.4:1.9), but I don't know how they were taken in the first place. Resonator traps and multiple subwoofers are the more effective solutions, although bass trapping gets really expensive.

nice poster

ive heard that Qacoustics "sound bigger" than they look - is this actually true

Thanks. Someone was talking about in the last thread about four subwoofers and I googled that and saw some interesting placement recommendations. Many of them ON the wall not just along it. I was thinking of looking for some thin but long subwoofers that would make that easier rather than big cube ones.

>Room modes are inevitably screwed up by placing large furniture in the room. This does not exclude large speakers.
I would have furniture on risers, but was thinking of baffling the front of the room like pic related. Well, maybe on a smaller scale.

I'm kinda trying to make something pretty easy to configure too where if I wanted to change speakers I could and baffles might make that hard to do. Maybe there is some way to have a big space for the speakers and then fill it with something solid to achieve the same result. Like a high density core of some kind with some acoustic material on top.

The subwoofer placement in that picture puzzles me but there was no context.

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I missed this last bit.

>Resonator traps and multiple subwoofers are the more effective solutions, although bass trapping gets really expensive.
Resonator traps? Like a muffler? I wanted to have one row riser even though I don't see myself having many guests. I was wondering what to make the riser from as it seems like it could be used for a subwoofer or two or acoustic dampening material with vents.

I see some people put bass shakers down too but that seems kinda tacky.

Bass traps (the passive type) are very expensive? These looked kinda interesting: bagend.com/products/series/active-bass-trap/

There are. Hopefully the user with the books on theory can help you out further, but it all comes down to what fits your needs in the end.

I've been searching for acoustic books and have found a few but haven't dug into them deeply yet. A lot of them seem to be a bit of a stretch for my education in physics but we'll see. I'd like a more applied science book rather than purely scientific one. I'm still searching though.

Is it any good?

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Resonator traps are tuned traps. They are either Helmholtz, with slits and other vent holes, or membranes, which use a solid panel.
These are optimized to low frequencies. A broadband trap that covers 100 Hz and below would be far too large to put in any room smaller than a stadium.
>very expensive
They are if you want to cover the walls with them. Application to all the room corners might still run up a few thousand dollars, but that should deal with most bass effects.
>active traps
Obviously, it can't work if the subwoofer is putting far more sound than the trap can handle.
But, it does mean you don't have to pick a trap optimized to the room.

>more applied science book rather than purely scientific one
Which ones are you reading, Landau and Lifschitz?
Books on acoustics are normally aimed at the engineer, technician, or the interested layperson.

Are Elac Debut B6 good?
If not, could you reccomend something in similiar price range?

>Many of them ON the wall not just along it.
A flush mounted subwoofer? That's most likely for output.
>furniture on risers
That doesn't change too much of the mode disrupting property.
Flush mounting is done for diffraction elimination and increased LF output.
While you could consider it as a way to get cabinets out of the room mode picture, that doesn't seem sensible unless the room is almost bare.

Pretty good for a cheap little thing.
Computer use, TV, HT, or something else entirely?

>They are if you want to cover the walls with them. Application to all the room corners might still run up a few thousand dollars, but that should deal with most bass effects.
Yeah, looks like GIKs corner traps are about 270 per corner if I wanted 8ft of them. So then some side treatments and yeah I'm at a few grand in room treatments.

>Which ones are you reading, Landau and Lifschitz?
>Books on acoustics are normally aimed at the engineer, technician, or the interested layperson.
I'm a shitty engineer. I studied engineering but I'm pretty bad with it because I just went into sales after because the money was good. I'm an interested layperson with some engineering background.

I haven't read much of anything yet, just browsed:
Toole - Loudspeakers & Rooms (just found this one, haven't opened it yet)
Mendel Kleiner, Jiri Tichy - Acoustics of Small Rooms
F. Alton Everest - The Master Handbook of Acoustics 4th Edition

>A flush mounted subwoofer? That's most likely for output.
No, they mount them not floor level up higher than floor level. 1/3 way up the wall or 1/2 way up the wall.

>Flush mounting is done for diffraction elimination and increased LF output.
>While you could consider it as a way to get cabinets out of the room mode picture, that doesn't seem sensible unless the room is almost bare.
I'd build the theater from scratch so the baffle would be no issue really if it was worthwhile.

I recall Toole and Everest being fairly accessible. But it's been a few years since I've read them, and my idea of accessible may not be usual.
>flush into the soffit
It's not necessary. It's *a lot* of trouble, one that might not be worth it. No adjustments can be easily made after, so this is really something you should consult a specialist for.
I think the most tangible benefits are the aesthetics and the increased output below what used to be the baffle step. Edge diffraction might not be much improved if the mid and tweeters are mounted into a waveguide, or if the cabinet was carefully rounded off.
>No, they mount them not floor level up higher than floor level. 1/3 way up the wall or 1/2 way up the wall.
Maybe mode cancellation. Symmetric placement excites the same modes, which cancel out. Usually done with multiple subs.
>riser
I skipped this part over at first.
It would still fall into the general problem of having a passive trap needing to be tuned to the modes there. That would have to come after the room is built. Helmholtz vents would be cut into the sides, I suppose.

>I recall Toole and Everest being fairly accessible. But it's been a few years since I've read them, and my idea of accessible may not be usual.
Thanks. I'll just start reading and if my eyes glaze over I'll move to the next one.

>>flush into the soffit
>It's not necessary. It's *a lot* of trouble, one that might not be worth it. No adjustments can be easily made after, so this is really something you should consult a specialist for.
>I think the most tangible benefits are the aesthetics and the increased output below what used to be the baffle step. Edge diffraction might not be much improved if the mid and tweeters are mounted into a waveguide, or if the cabinet was carefully rounded off.
I don't follow what you mean here. You're talking about baffling the LCRs and front subwoofers? Or are you talking about installing bass traps into soffits?

>>No, they mount them not floor level up higher than floor level. 1/3 way up the wall or 1/2 way up the wall.
>Maybe mode cancellation. Symmetric placement excites the same modes, which cancel out. Usually done with multiple subs.

>>riser
>I skipped this part over at first.
>It would still fall into the general problem of having a passive trap needing to be tuned to the modes there. That would have to come after the room is built. Helmholtz vents would be cut into the sides, I suppose.
Can't this be calculated before the room was built? I was also thinking of "stuffing" the risers with some kind of bass trap material/insulation rather than leaving them hollow and then venting them. I haven't investigated if this is worthwhile or not yet though. It just sounded like a good use of space. Placing subwoofers under the riser also seemed like a good idea if it acoustically made sense, again just for use of space. If the riser came up X amount of inches, I could find some subwoofers that could be placed under and vented properly. Danley DTS-10 looks really interesting for that sort of thing.

>I don't follow what you mean here.
Baffling the LCRs and front subwoofers.
>Can't this be calculated before the room was built?
Yes, but room models tend to have a lot of simplifying assumptions.
Drywall gaps form resonant cavities. That can provide a slight unexpected bass damping inside the room. Materials and construction have some tolerance range to consider.
>riser damping
You should put some insulation in any case, to minimize standing waves forming inside.
This also has utility for tuning the effective volume of a Helmholtz trap. But it won't do much as a broadband absorber.

It's amazing how much you can forget when you stop paying attention to the subject.

(second)
Mainly PC use, in future maybe + TV
Planning to get some amp + subwoofer too
any rec?

I'm about three years out from the actual build, so hoping to have a pretty solid plan by the time I actually build the house. Not sure how to keep what I learn organized, I might just make a binder with all my drawings and notes and keep designing rooms from what I learn - then give the architect some constraints to work within. I'll probably also hire an acoustical engineer at some point but want to do as much as I can on my own to keep that cost down.

I'm also a little tired, which is impairing recollection.

You seem very knowledgable to me. I hope to get there. I work a ton so thats why the long run up, it's fun learning about the stuff and then I can be prepared when I start on my house. I'm going to really soak up the AVSForum build threads too.

What's your current setup? I'm moving in the next few months into the house that I'll eventually tear down to build the bigger one with the theater, but going to piece together a temp system from some old gear. Probably M&K S-150s for the LCRs and use some Danley CS-30s I have for subwoofers. I don't really have any rears in inventory so might just buy some cheap dipoles.

>see god tier pair of discontinued headphones that I desperately want on ebay for a great price
>won't have the money to afford them for ATLEAST 10 days AT BEST, probably 17 days
>tfw they're going to sell soon and I won't get another chance to buy them for months maybe even years

What do I do anons? I really badly want these cans, is it worth a shot contacting the seller and trying to put down a deposit?

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I'm giving awful advice, but, use a credit card and then you can pay it off at the end of 30 days?

I'm a 19 y/o uni student with a part time job so I don't have a credit card

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That's probably a good thing because it's awful advice to give. You know I've had those eBay itches and the stuff comes back or you find something else in the future. It's just stuff. You won't always be a broke uni student and it will be easier in the future too, try to get content with what you have because this hobby gets expensive fast. I guess we don't have it as bad as /o/ does but it is still pretty pricey once you get out of the entry level range.

yeah you're right... hopefully anyway

I've been dreaming for years now about owning a real high end pair of headphones, this stupid hobby fills me with constant envy. I can't wait to be able to really splurge on a high end setup.

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Going to be really honest with you here: when I made more money, and bought what I always wanted, my expectations rose. In college I dreamed of a system that is about 5k today, bought that, and now I dream of a dedicated theater that i’ll probably spend 50k on by the time I’m done.

uh...

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If I buy a Mcintosh does it come with the rifle?

What a shitty rifle.

>What's your current setup?
Modest. A pair of Mackie HR824 for computer listening.
The waveguide could be better at blending into the woofer.

What's that a car amp?

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I recently upgraded from a shitty laptop to a desktop pc and am having a problem now with my scarlett 2i4. The hdmi cable i use to connect to my monitor is causing some kind of electrical infetterance, making a low hum. Is there some cheap way i can shield my desktop? (Im sure its not the cable because it makes no hum on my laptop).

my tidal free trial ran out

You watch movies at the computer also?

what kind of speakers do you have

I've been using my SR60's for about a decade now. Would the SR80e be a worthwhile upgrade? I use these for everything including music, movies and games.

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I don't watch many movies.
IPS monitors aren't very good at media, but they work well enough for reading.

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>IPS monitors aren't very good at media
??? Mine works fantastically.

I've never found one with a nice enough black level. Motion blur is a bit of a problem as well.

Yeah monitors in general suck for movie watching, but can be nice anyways sometimes. I'd rather watch a movie on a el-cheapo projector using a white wall as a screen than watch it on a computer though.

Sounds like a ground loop. First try plugging the scarlett into the same outlet bank as your computer, make sure they are on the same ground. Ground loop isolator is a redneck but possible way to fix it.

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McIntosh made a car amp and a stereo deck for Subaru

Noice.

Thanks senpai

Sub budget? One of the 12 inch Dayton subs is an option new, but don't be afraid to pick up a used one.
I know little about the receiver market.

Fuck all you flac NIGGERS. m4a is the future but you FUCKING NIGGERS ruined it with your meme format.

>m4a is the future
Nobody gives two shits about m4a except itunefaggots.

no u

I finally got a U-Turn Orbit Pro and an Onkyo TX-NR676. Next thing I want to upgrade are my speakers, but I don't know what kind to get. I was thinking of getting a set of 5.1 surround ones, but is that the best setup for music? I have a Kodi PC with a lot of movies and TV shows but I listen to music way more.

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They did standalone stuff also. Not just for Subaru (and Ford). I don't have an AR will this do?

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I'm happy with my current setup.

Would I be happier if I spent more money?

First you need to realize a problem in your current setup that you really need to "fix".

>tfw got a Nakamichi sr-4 for less than 300$ and it's completely revised and we'll maintained.

I hooked up some old Wharfdale delta 50's on them and they sound great in combination with the receiver. I have them hooked up to a Cr-3 and the Cd-1 from nakamichi too.

Well, for all setup (2 stereo, amp and sub) something around 800-900$.
For now i'm considering elac b6, s10 and Onkyo A-9010, but would like to decrease price if possible.
Any ideas?

dayton not avaible in my region...

Lossy is irrelevant outside phones/streaming. HDD space is so fucking cheap just get the fucking FLAC.

>s10
The Elac sub? There should be something with a bit more bass extension.
But where is here? Dayton Audio operates in the United States.

Poland
ceneo.pl/

Last night I was looking at "small theaters" in this thread avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/996973-small-theater-build-threads.html

A lot fell victim to Photobucket but pretty inspiring. Considering it is just me maybe I start to look more along those lines and less square footage. It would for sure allow me to get reference level dynamics without having to go to compression drivers for LCRs, versus a big room looks like I'm pretty much stuck with compression drivers. Small room seems like something like a Triad Gold LCR or similar would do just fine, versus big it looks like I start to have to look for something like a Procella Audio, JBL, JTR, or Seaton.

...and seems like it would make the bass situation easier. I could run four smaller subwoofers and get some really deep response without having to go to orbit shifters or something crazy in order to get below 20Hz in room.

I really love my Bag End subwoofer and would enjoy an entire Bag End sub theater but I think the cost would be prohibitive because I'd probably need 8x. They are fantastic for music but for home theater they need to go to multiples to get solid output very low. Maybe instead do something like 4x JL Audio 12" E-subs, or even Triad subs.

>Four subs
What does it even take to run multiple subs? Power amp for each one?

I feel like I'm the only millennial in my area with gear like this. In any case, gotta love your music when it sounds like its live in the room with ya. Smith horns are the best.

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>That HUEG pass
probably because not everyone has full pockets like you
>yggdrasil
and because not everyone is as ready to get jew'd out of their money as easely as you.

I recognise you from the other threads.
you got quite the upgrade but plea
se just sell the yggy while you still can get money back before the rest of the audiofools catch up on the scam

*easily

There are a bunch of ways to do it depending on the application. I had two subwoofers in my last system and I ran the left and right channel full range and then used a dbX processor to handle the crossover to the left and right channels to the subwoofers. Another option would be to simply use the LFE output on a pre-processor or receiver and then use a Y cable to get two ends, which works but depending on how close your subwoofers are to the receiver that can be a cumbersome cable to run. A third option is most subwoofers that are active (have internal amplification) have an LFE output so you can daisy chain them. So you'd run from LFE out on the pre-pro, to the first sub, then line out from the first to the second, and so on all the way to end.

If I ran four subwoofers, which would likely be the case, I'd probably want to be able to apply DSP to each so I'd run them through some sort of line level DSP processor like a dbX where I could apply EQ, adjust delay, and so forth. I haven't messed with the latest pre-processors to know how good Audyssey and their internal room correction is now, it used to be kinda shit.

Small rooms can be pressurized more easily. In this way, a small room can be compared to a headphone at very low frequencies, a leaky pressure chamber with reduced excursion. Try to get a door that closes nice and tight.
Being able to fit in multiple smaller subs will provide more options for resonant mode cancellation better than the fewer, so it's a nice idea.

Like the Triad Golds?

Yes, you are probably the only (insert random age group) in your area that spent a car's worth of money on your setup.

r8 my amp m8s

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also whats a good cartridge for my debut carbon?

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quite hot