/mkg/ - 30 Billion Key Press Edition
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first for guitars and boards
I'm looking for a backlit retro-looking 100% keyboard. What should I buy?
first for ISO is shit
>backlit
>retro-looking
Pick one.
>Backlit retro
how about skip the backlight and get a Unicomp model M
ANSI is for soiboys
first for who gives a fuck
xth for im liking my Leopoldo 660m
Any good mechanical keyboard will a full layout and ISO that just looks plain and simple with no branding? Something like pic related but in ISO
Hey, I'm looking into doing my first DIY board, but I don't want a piddly 60% layout. Are there any TKL PCBs that have full RGB backlighting and are easily programmable? I've used a ducky one 2, and I really like the way it's macro/programming mode works. From what I've seen of the ducky one rgb, the way you control the backlighting on that is really nice, too. So, any PCBs like that? Or am I better off just actually ripping the PCB out of a ducky one rgb? That'd be super expensive, though.
just get it in ansi user. if you can touch type ansi is much better, this is coming from someone in the EU
Yea, the gon NerD
gonskeyboardworks.com
Ducky one or one 2
Corsair Vengeance K70, 40 bucks y/n?
Looks neat, does it support RGB backlighting? I Don't see anything about that in the description. Wish it came with pre-soldered LEDs, though. I'm fine with soldering, but putting on 4 pins per LED sounds like it's gonna get old quick. This board should work with most plates and cases, as long as they're TLK, right?
Lastly, I've heard negative things about gon's keyboard works. Is there any merit to that, or is it just reddit being retarded?
oh sorry i missed the full RGB backlighting. I'm not actually sure about that. hopefully another user here can help or you can messgae gon.
>ctrl + f thicc
>zero results
I'm disappointed in you /mkg/
Pretty sure it only supports RGB underglow and single color in switch LEDs. I don't know of any DIY TKL boards that has in switch RGB LEDs.
That's really gay, yo. So, if I want a programmable TKL RGB board, I should get a Ducky One RGB TKL and rip out the PCB? Am I gonna run into any issues doing that? How difficult would that be to nigger-rig into other TKL cases/plates?
Ducky uses two separate PCBs for the RGB and switches, which means you'd have to custom build a case for it.
Seriously? How does that even work? The Ducky One is a single PCB as far as I know, is this something special to the One RGB?
Do any keycap companies make typewriter-style keycaps like the one's in OP's pic for Cherry MX?
I know of Dolch but those don't look quite as "thick" as typewriter keys.
your best bet is either SA profile caps for MX or hipro for topre. I don't think theres anything else similar
This is how I use my keyboard /mkg/
Those aren't typewriter-style keycaps.
Their RGB keyboards use smd LEDs which are mounted on another PCB. This gives it better build quality, but it's harder to mod it. That's why most people get costar boards like Fillco if they want to modify them
Do you just mean high profile caps? Because SA caps have been around for years now. There's also the new mt3 profile.
Some typewriters actually came with spherical keycaps like in the OP pic so he's not wrong
It's not that much more space, you might have to get creative tho
Meh, I'm not that worried about swapping out the case, anyway. More interested in swapping out the plate, which shouldn't be as much of an issue. Though, I wonder how much harder this would make it to replace the switches?
I think replacing the switches shouldn't give you much issue, unless I'm missing something. Should be fairly straight forward
You can completely remove the led PCB without desoldering anything
who /topre/ here?
top and bottom have awful fonts, but in opposite directions. funny
>That esc key on the bottom
WEW, that looks terrible. Bet it's a bitch to type on, too
the pok3r has crap font, I agree. I like the font on the leopold though.
it's not a bad font but it's way too small for my tastes.
i mean, it doesn't really matter to me since i'm a touch typist, but it just looks worse than big fonts imo
I don't use that board at all. It has MX blues, I'll be getting rid of it soon and picking up an FC660M PD with MX blacks (retooled). Tactile cherry switches just don't do it for me after using Topre for over a year.
I do think that the white HHKB has the best looking font out of those boards. I love the fc660c though, it's a great board, probably my favourite board so far.
I have reached the peak of mechanical keyboards. I still am not satisfied.
>I have reached the peak of mechanical keyboards
no, now you need to be IBM beam springs and Hall Effect
both overrated
it's been years since i've typed on a Hall Effect, but i remember it being pretty good.
well, the main point of those is that they're hard to come by, and even more so at a reasonable price. so maybe that hunt will satisfy him.
>Peak of mechanical keyboards
>Alps
>Hall Effect
Funny you should mention that. Today I discovered that I've had a hall effect keyboard this whole time, and honestly I prefer vintage MX blacks over it. The keycaps are something out of this world, but maybe there's too much dust in them. I haven't tried retooled mx switches yet though
>I haven't tried retooled mx switches yet though
they're pretty mediocre imo. then again i'm not too crazy about the vintage cherries i've tried either.
linear switches aren't my thing anyway. My favorite switch by far is capacitive buckling springs. I've also tried all the alps switches and wasn't all that impressed with them
What keyset is this?
tty mt3
dev/tty. Round 2 ended some weeks ago.
massdrop.com
Can anyone who has Box Royals give a review?
I'll tell you once mine get here (probably next week). Don't have a full board I plan on mounting them in yet though.
Haven't been following anything related to mechs in a while, but those Kailh box switches seem interesting. Anywhere I can read more about them in general? Do they have any different properties to make them better or simply just different from Cherry or Gateron switches, mainly in regards to how smooth they are? The click bar seem like a neat idea.
Chyros' reviews on the box navies are pretty informative actually.
I've watched that before posting, which did answer some of my questions, but I'm mostly interested in what people around here think about them in general compared to other "regular" switches. There seems to be a lot of different switch variants, some of which aren't really clones of any other existing ones, which is interesting.
Well, using box navies right now I can tell you they're much more tactile (sharper tactility at that) than any other mx mount switch I've tried. It's pretty nice once you've gotten used to the weight.
pok3r and hhkb reporting in. Not very impressed with the hhkb desu, it was a lot of money for not a lot. Anyone have recommendations/experiences with prebuilt 40% boards? My hands are super shaky so I can't build them myself, but so many of them are only kits.
Lol so true. Oranges have one of the weaker tactile bumps. Brown alps is true peak for tactile at least as far as alps goes. As for clicky blue alps would take it if it weren't for the unreliability of alps.
>20M click life
>Pinnacle
Beamspring all the way you pleb.
the magicforce one is cheap
Honestly beampsings are pretty overrated, they're less tactile then buckling springs and aren't as crisp.
Got mine in today. No board yet, but they feel really interesting
The point of the box on the stem is that it (theoretically) keeps the keycap more stable and prevents rattling. As for the switches themselves, the clickbar is the cool thing that sets them apart. Other than that, then don't really have any unique properties other than the water/dust resistance I guess.
So, I'm interested in silent black switches and I've heard good things about the new cherry silent switches.
Are the new cherry silent switches really as smooth as Gateron linear switches?
It should I just buy Gateron silent blacks?
That does sound nice. I've grown to kinda dislike my Cherry blues lately and been enjoying my board with Gateron reds and browns more, so I might try those and see if I like them better than blues.
That means some of the keycap wobbling that's usually pretty noticeable with Gateron switches for example? It's not something that bothers me personally, but I can see how minimizing that would be good. Are the linears smooth like Gaterons? If so, something like that with no wobble would be nice.
Get outemu
>Are the linears smooth like Gaterons?
Supposedly they're some of the smoothest switches you can get second only to Tealios with significantly less wobble than them but that's just what I've read. I'm planning on trying the box reds in my next board unless they come out with a linear speed box switch before then.
what you guys thinks?
well it's already better then any ISO keyboard ever made, so get it if it's cheap and comes with decent switches
dude, it's from 1985
>lctrl in the correct place
Good.
>magicforce
link? looks really interesting.
And?
Stop giving money to the Cherry jew. Get BOX switches or Gaterons.
>sandpaper switches
I want to get some jades for another keyboard, but this one in particular, i want to make as quiet as possible so i can get rid of the membrane keyboard in the office.
So looks like gateron it is.
Get Aliaz switches, not Gateron MX Silent clones. Both Gateron, but Aliaz feel like an improved version. There was production weirdness with the Silents that was resolved with the Aliaz switches.
Going back to a standard layout after being on a 60% for so long sure feels weird. Keep hitting the wrong keys
Are Cherry MX and Gateron switches very similar in terms of build quality and tactility?
Gats are cherry ripoffs, but many people prefer them due to their extra smoothness and their copies in some case being overtly superior to original Cherry, especially Browns and Blacks.
They're both shit and have 0 tactility
What should I get then if I like a tactile switches?
zealios
Those have 0 tactility too, that goes for every cherry clone.
Alps or buckling springs
recommending a noob alps or buckling springs is kinda silly, user. especially since there's a good chance he's going to get dirty alps and he'll fucking hate it
Who cares if he's new, it's a keyboard. Why recommend him shitty keyboards just because he's new?
>Why recommend him shitty keyboards just because he's new?
because ebay hunting for days or even weeks for a reasonably priced non-dirty alps keyboard isn't going to sound like a good idea for someone who is entry-level
I also recommended buckling springs which you can buy new from unicomp.
fair enough
I like my Unicomp and all but man I really wish the logo wasn't so hideous
plenty of brand new alps keyboards for sale
done
Do they have a linear or more tactile version?
Looking at the slider, they look like they have the same tactility as browns, and I can't stand browns, they barely feel tactile. I either want nicely tactile, or linear. Not something in the middle that just feels like it has some grime in it.
>There was production weirdness with the Silents
Care to elaborate?
unicomp
How much should I sell this board for?
It's an early 90's precision instruments (NTC KB-6151), basically unused. Has Alps SKCM Whites.
Just look up the prices they're going for, when you ask people how much to sell things for they always give you shitty prices to sell at.
Get Matias QC. More tactile than most cherry switches (except the box navy/jade I think, but those are clicky too) and very silent.
Could this be a beamspring, or does it look like a buckling spring instead?
And yes that's the original quality of the photo, nothing I can do about it
Nowhere tall enough to be a beamspring.
That's a Model C (as opposed to Model F or M). It's got F guts but also a solenoid. So that's neato.