/avg/ & /ag/: audio video general & audiophile memes

Audio video thread! Let's kick the weekend off early.

Attached: audio-general-better-records-no-frog.jpg (1300x1015, 174K)

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/BqMngZQYD5A
dolby.com/us/en/guide/surround-sound-speaker-setup/5-1-setup.html
youtube.com/watch?v=hdAQH2-282w
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Considering the CMT-340 for use in near field for the time being.

Attached: 340se_lt_ng_hr.jpg (377x800, 49K)

Those are very nice speakers for the money. Really nice home theater speaker. I wonder if just the bookshelves would be enough for nearfield. CBM-170 SE's are on sale and go deep enough to crossover to a subwoofer at a reasonably low crossover.

How close are you sitting?

Speaks are two-three feet away at maximum. I'm leaning towards these due to an user's recommendation and that they seem like they could also be used in a larger room when put on either their stand or your own stand.

Any suggestions for sound treatment? I was thinking 2inch thick absorption panels on the side walls and diffuser + absorption panels behind the speakers. all the diy stuff ive been looking into seems to be strictly absorption, but im pretty sure i wanted a bit of diffusion in my panels. im just going by what gikaccoustics told me, but they quoted me like $500 for 4 acoustic panels. seems worth it for me since i have zero skill with wood and stuff and i dont know anyone to make me my own panels.

Attached: 2018-05-18 11.08.31.jpg (3907x2211, 1.53M)

Anyone have a good alternative for a FIIO X1 II? (sub $250)
I own this piece of memeshit and after multiple firmware updates it still doesn't work even closer to advertised.

Oh I misread. Yes, those would be perfect for near-field until you get a bigger room. At reasonable distances those should work for even reference level, although I personally don't watch movies that loud it is great to have the headroom.

Can you snap some photos of the entire room? It's hard to recommend based on a tight photo. You may want some diffusion, but the great thing about diffusion is things like books work as well as expensive panels. A nice bookshelf filled up if you are a reader or have a lot of textbooks often looks better too.

nTh for building your own amp instead of buying overpriced shite.

5cm thick 140kg/m3 rockwool-panels behind the stereo and then some diffusors on the wall behind your head.
Everything but the back wall should be absorbed.

I figure for the time being my Onkyo receiver will be able to push them just fine for my purposes and then when I finally upgrade that they'll work in a larger room.
Sorry, too retarded. Though I will be putting together a bottlehead crack thanks to shills in /hpg/

Why are you here if you can't solder?
Are you a shill?

>can't solder
Who said that? I literally just said I'm putting together an amp that requires soldering. Are you a retard?

5/10 chance.

Optimum depends on the room size, and some on preference. Although, there really isn't any serious limit to bass trapping.
How large is the room?

Very early reflections (

Which Onkyo do you have? Nearfield it won't take much of anything to power those. At three feet away only 5watts per speaker would have a pair of those at over 100dB. They'll probably spend most of their time using a watt or two.

My pebbles arrived today. Excited to try them out. I put light blue on top of the cables and dark blue below, right?

Attached: 2018-05-18 11.32.07.jpg (4032x3024, 3.07M)

that boys parents must really love him.

TX-8020. Has done me good for a budget build.

Reminder that even cheap headphones will out-resolve 99.9% of speakers. Why spend so much on room treatment and snake oil and end up with worse sound than one of these?

Attached: download.jpg (194x259, 5K)

Good news is I'm finally in a house, no more apartments. Bad news is the layout of the house I bought isn't great for home theater, and I'm not knocking it down for another 3-4 years so I want to make it as nice as possible

My equipment is out of a time machine from various points in my life:
Onkyo Pro PR-886
A bunch of amps (Crown, Crest)
Danley CS-30 subwoofers
M&K S-150s, oldies from the made in USA days
TV I have a bunch of decent LCDs from my office that aren't getting used for now and then I'll buy the biggest thing I can fit eventually.

Questions:
1) What do you think of my layout idea? It's all hard floors and lots of glass, the TV would be covering a window but I have plenty of those, the acoustics isn't going to be great.

2) I'm not up on the latest surround formats. Is Atmos impossible here? I don't want to use the bounce method. But what about Height channels? I don't think my Onkyo supports them but maybe for a future upgrade at least run the wires and mount the speaker since it'll be easier when I move in then when all my stuff is in?

3) For rears, which speakers would I get that make sense with the M&Ks and my size room? Something on a swivle bracket? What smaller speakers that can keep up with the S150s as surrounds are out there?

4) What would be a good equipment upgrade path for me? I was thinking of nixing all the pro amps from my prosound days and eventually getting a nice 5 or 7 channel home amp? I'd still use a big Crest for the Danleys... Was thinking of something like:
a) Upgrade pre-processor to one that supports height channels and latest HDMI jazz (need to research)
b) Get a latest and greatest 4k TV
c) Get some consumer amps rather than my giant prosound ones.

5) Speaking of prosound amps. I'm going to have to use all these Crests and Crowns to start, are there under the TV equipment racks that are reasonable in price that accept rack ears? I have some portable racks but they don't look very nice.

Attached: home-theater-layout-top-down-export-5-18.jpg (2800x2181, 507K)

also see attached...

Any help appreciated.

Attached: home-theater-sketch-export-5-18.jpg (3000x1813, 285K)

A U T I S M

>out-resolve
Congratulations, you just learned that the closer something is to your ear the easier it is to hear.

Where the heck am I going to mount these rear channel speakers? I'm about 2.5' away from my back wall. Should I put them spread out and up high facing me? On the ground facing up? Somewhat level to my ears? I can't really play with the positioning right now since my amp isn't here yet, I just want some insight. Also not really wanting to mount something to the wall then take it down since I'll be drilling big ass holes in the walls for lag bolts.

I already knew it. You audiophools can't seem to figure it out though.

The only fool here sounds like you.

Wrong. I own headphones.

i own your mother

Sick burn.

Attached: 1498747525761.jpg (754x1158, 103K)

Is this the place to ask about pc audio? I use a Klipsch promedia 2.1 speaker setup for my PC that I enjoy a lot but am looking to move to something independtly assembled, since the 2.1 is a kit with no real room for improvement.... where the fuck do I even start?

Amp, bookshelf speakers, possibly a DAC.

Emotiva A-100 and craigslist bookshelves(or whatever you can find within your budget that looks good)

dac if you can afford it.

Those are for decoration, you have been scammed

You have come to the right place! You can go a few routes...

DAC, line out to a subwoofer, crossover is handled there, then line out to some active bookshelves.
DAC, line out to a subwoofer, crossover is handled there, then line out to an amp which powers bookshelves.
DAC that has an LFE output or goes into a receiver that has one, then you power the bookshelves from there and crossover digitally in the receiver, then run some RCAs to the subwoofer.

Attached: 1512447111580.gif (189x212, 898K)

dac line out to a sub doesn't really work unless you're adjusting the input volume to the dac, it's just going to be stuck at the same volume the whole time unless you get up and change it constantly.

Oh yeah not line out, I meant the outputs (volume controlled).

You mean speaker level inputs? Yeah, that's be a better option. But I think a sub is far down the line, he should prioritize getting his speakers and amp/dac before he starts to worry about a sub.

You are right, but if the Klipsch had a subwoofer he might feel like he is missing out on a lot of bass, even if that Klipsch system was shit. I guess it depends on budget.

At any rate need to keep in mind a sub upgrade. People buy systems with no way to add a subwoofer and then end up spending more on new electronics that support the sub.

>avsforum keeps going down
you'd think after over a decade they would power it by something other than a mac mini

Depends on how low the speakers he gets go. If they go down to ~50-60hz he should be okay without one. Especially since he's presumably just going to be sitting at a desk.

is the Crown XLS1002 amplifier any good?

Yes

>you'd think after over a decade they would power it by something other than a mac mini
You'd think that a bunch of audiophiles would know how to power a system better.

Attached: p20-front.jpg (1000x712, 70K)

I've used a 402 for ages. You might have to mod the fan. There are tons of howtos online.

cool

Here, enjoy my system, via my shitty phone, via Youtube and via your system. Best experience ever guaranteed.
youtu.be/BqMngZQYD5A

Attached: qEnbNV2.jpg (1920x1080, 665K)

Sounds great out my shitty work speakers. What do you like of Matt Farah no longer doing One Takes? For some reason I hate Matt Farah and he was on the Joe Rogan podcast talking about stopping One Takes and how he feels like he dodged a bullet (I guess wrecks and liability). Now this new guy is doing them?

Headphones are usually a better value for the price (i.e. $300 headphones will always sound better than $300 speakers) but saying speakers are useless is delusional. Headphones can't replicate the experience of a full-scale room sound, not to mention if you're into movies a surround sound set-up is pretty nice. Software-based surround still sounds like shit compared to a full 7.1 speaker set-up, I've tried Dolby Headphone surround sound and while pretty good, it's not the same.

for a second i thought those were cornwalls and that was a large television

>What do you like of Matt Farah no longer doing One Takes?
I'm very sad about it. Haven't watched a single One Take with the new guy.

don't fall for the atmos meme. everything is still just encoded in 5.1 anyways for the most part.

Attached: index.jpg (268x188, 13K)

? It's a 50" TV

Attached: groesster-lautsprecher.jpg (600x360, 45K)

Attached: 17662544025b16ec77.jpg (900x521, 76K)

Where does that legend about cables touching the ground even comes from? How old is it?

Vibrations and static electricity.

Normally, roughly level with head, aimed at listening position.
They can be moved above and aimed down to listening area if that works better for your position.

Why does anyone ever demo speakers on youtube?
Surely theres nothing useful one can learn from it besides maybe how big the speakers look like on a desk.

I was thinking it would since i'm so close to the wall. But how far apart? Same distance as the front channels? That's about 2' from the wall as well. The only position adjustments I have are swiveling and a little pit of tilt so I'm really not trying to fuck this up.

Fun.
The room is such a big factor that the same equipment can sound totally different in different rooms,and that makes any recording of a speaker worthless

Are these the rears to a 7 channel?

This a home theater?

Scattered thoughts:
The timescale of sound event integration is frequency dependent. Unfortunately, most testing I can think of is strictly temporal,
At high frequencies, the brain can start to pick apart speaker timbre from the room given a little time to do so. Echoes and image shift/expanded soundstage are other things.
After a very short initial time window, some amount of HF scattering is tolerated better. A small amount of reflection even increases the ability to detect audio information.
There seems a definite preference on how reverberant a room should be. Rather than delve into that, what everyone seems to agree on is a general need for low-frequency control. Large diffusers are useful for breaking apart modes and scattering sound. Can be used to aid absorption if that route is desired.

Skin effect
& Dielectric loss
Also easier to sweep floor and looks nice when cables are all dressed.

I assume you are doing 5.1? For best results follow this placement explicitly: dolby.com/us/en/guide/surround-sound-speaker-setup/5-1-setup.html

You can aim them at your listening position, keep the speakers 1-3ft above ear level. I tried a few different levels and found about 2-ft above ear level sounded best. Really stick to those degrees shown by Dolby though, that's how the mix is intended to be played back. People setup multichannel systems and then randomly place speakers rather than following the guidelines and the results are shit.

If your receiver has Audyssey or some automatic EQ and leveling program run that also. Make sure the microphone is absolutely clear of obstructions.

Nah, it's a 4.1. But a 6.1 in the future isn't unlikely.

youtube.com/watch?v=hdAQH2-282w

I once almost drove from New Hampshire to Virginia to buy a pair of Avalon speakers or $5k.. I ended up buying Hales Revelation III's for $900.

What about them would be worth 5,000 dollars?

Looks like it

They are expensive as fuck new. I don't know how they sound IRL, and the video is not trustworthy. So one might be able to flip them for more than 5k.

You are doing a phantom center?

What does your room look like?

this sums it up.

this is a dumb question but I gotta know - can a tiny scratch on the 3,5mm silver plug have any effects on the audio? loss in quality or whatever?

I just noticed noticed that the 3,5mm for my month-old speakers has tiny ass scratch near the tip

I thought this shit was supposed to be solid. maybe it came like this? I can imagine I somehow did that myself

Attached: 31KyWV-SFkL._SX355_.jpg (355x187, 9K)

Nah, it has plenty of surface left to make the connection

I should add that it can’t hurt to tell the manufacturer and maybe get a free extra cable. Always speak up.

thanks user, that's what I was thinking. I can't imagine that I would somehow scratch it like that myself, must be a typical factory defect. might try my luck and get a spare one from them.

Best way to get audio from computer and interface into one pair of headphones? I'm recording some friends and I want to give them direct monitoring but my computer has massive latency. At the moment I'm just gonna get them to wear earphones and headphones at the same time, but obviously that's very cumbersome. The nerd at the electronics store told me that a 3.5mm splitter would cause phase issues but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't if they're two completely different audio sources.

I need a bookself speaker without the sub. The NS-6490 is a good option? (Down to 45 Hz -3dB)

Optical/hdmi output to a av receiver to the 3.5mm?

inb4 "audiophile" trash

I've seen these speakers around for years, but never listened to a pair of them before. I'm curious myself. As I recall, they were a lot of speaker for not much money. 8" woofer, 3 way speaker for ~$150. I can't imagine they're terrible.

Cheap metal dome speakers make me leery. These have some treble harshness around 3-6kHz to them that needs a filtering. That 45 Hz bass response is overly optimistic.
But, I don't know how many better options are the price range. The Sony SS-CS5 should at least not have the same treble issues, but the bass response isn't too much better.

Attached: NS-6490.gif (571x341, 12K)

Note: the Yamaha bass roll off is slow, so you get some more useable extension in a real room.

I'm making an isolation pad for my subwoofer. It's just some thick foam in between two boards of laminate flooring.
It isolates well enough so the neighbours shouldn't hear it, but very little of the sound comes back to me.
Would bathroom tiles work better? And does it matter how wide the pad is? Right now it's the same size as the subwoofer

Have you tried just the foam under the legs? The point of isolating should be to prevent the sound waves from traveling through the floor.

Use sylomer or a similar material that's used to decouple heavy machinery from factory floors. You can exactly match the rated lowest transmission frequency at a certain load weight to make it super efficient

I'll probably get some better foam... or add another layer.

Get some pic-related

Attached: stdfeetall.jpg (252x304, 15K)

Will check out, thanks

>Doesn't ship to US
>30 dollars for what looks like four pieces of cork board

Check if you can buy them via Amazon or some other retailer.
It's some kind of foam and not cork.

How could you possibly need that big of a speaker behind that tiny ass screen?

High sound-pressure and/or low distortion?

Looks like those specific ones by sonic design aren't on amazon, but there are plenty of other options for him to choose from, rubber options, etc.

Bumpp

size > acoustics

I have a deteriorated cassette tape and I thought I could just record the same stuff on it again. Is the loss of quality due to the loss of inherent physical properties of the tape, or because the data on it deteriorated?

>data
it's analog
but yes, it's losing magnetization over time, you can just record over it and it weill be fine

Thank you. What word do you use when the medium is analog if "data" doesn't quite fit?