/pcbg/ - personal computer building general

>massdrop
post the price or fuck off shill

why are 1TB SSD's still expensive???

price inflation due to monopoly

I've been asking around a lot, and I think I'm ready to pull the trigger again on this build.
pcpartpicker.com/list/3QQv4q
Mainly looking to do light gaming and programming for college. Budget is stretched pretty thin right now. Samsung SSD is a spare one I have lying around. Will 16gb of ram be a huge difference from 8gb though? I can't imagine I'd need that much for the time being.

this board is no better than /b/ these days
>shill this
>shill that

Converting AUD to USD, the Vega 56 is closest to its MSRP.
IPS colors are noticable, but that isn't to say that all TN is awful, especially when price is considered.
Waiting for refresh could save you quite a bit, or prices could stick and you wasted a lot of time
Why do half the people buying 8700Ks think a 212 Evo is acceptable? Switch that out for at the very least an NH-D15/Dark Rock Pro 4 (and delid).
Get a 4x16 or 2x32 kit so then you don't face instability
850W PSU would be nicer, and G2 is superceded by G3.
Solid-state is lucky to have a stable price at all
Once the DRAM prices deflate there will be opportunity for NAND to get cheaper
Pretty good, but 16GB is excessive.

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lul
600 usd for 1070ti
680 usd for vega 56
675 usd for 1080
840 usd for vega 64
1030 usd for 1080ti

forgot to add on that you americans have it easy on pc part prices

Reposting from last thread.

Budget: $1300
Use: Video Editing / Max single player games
Software: Adobe CC for video
Monitor: Asus 27 inch 1440p currently owned with a side 1080p monitor
I'd like a large case but not where i'm spending 1/5 of my budget on it.

I am curious if an AMD build would outperform an Intel one.

8700Kfag here. thanks for input on cooling, i just picked a cheap, popular cooler. any top recommendations for cooling?

didn't know 4x16 would be more reliable, i think i did the 2x(2x16) because it shook out to be slightly less $ at the time.

i am hoping this build will be prepared for 4k editing and next gen gaming. would any changes help with that? (either cost cutting or component switch)

Upgrade CPU then, also get SSD for cache if you don't have one already, GPU is more than sufficient

its 499 you dumb fuck

Hey guys I'm looking for a PC for Windows 10 and Photoshop. Under $1000 AUD with a monitor included.

Decent monitor. Doesn't need to be gayman grade 75hz stuff.

From the last thread... Gotta install Windows for the first time in years, what does Jow Forums recommend? Pro or Home? OEM or retail?

I haven't done a new install of Windows since XP, I think. I've used preinstalled through Win 7.

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For Adobe it's best to do Coffee Lake for the iGPU and high frequency
CUDA matters a lot too
Buying your memory in a kit means it's been tested and works in that config.
Dual tower heatsink (D15 for example) is best for 8700K. Also, delid the IHS and replace the TIM with liquid metal
Whichever is cheapest on Kinguin

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Hey guys.
I ahve 1.1k of usd after tax to spend on a gaming rig with occasional 3d modeling.

I have a friend who gave me a build but it seems super expensive with unecessary bits like a 300 dollar case.

I don't care about looks I just want something that runs super smoothly. I do not have a case or monitor but I do have a keyboard and mouse

Yo i purchased a cheap windows license key and the seller sent me this huge instruction list for offline activtion about calling numbers and shit excerpt:

We received your payment via PayPal.

You have purchased this item on eBay and have chosen "Standard Shipping", which includes no delivery of a box or DVD, but a free delivery of the product key via e-mail.

The acquisition of a stand-alone Product Key does not yet authorize the use of a licensed computer program (Oberlandesgericht Frankfurt am Main, 30.01.2014 - 11 W 34/12). Therefore, you must also acquire an authorization to use it in the form of a software license (Oberlandesgericht Frankfurt am Main, 18.05.2010 - Az. 11 U 69/09).

We are sending herewith the product key and instructions on activation through the Microsoft's Automated Phone System:

And so on. Can i just ignore all this shit and install it using the product key

MSRP is $500 so it's pretty good
Read the OP and start a list god damn

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Here

Forgot to mention I run a 3 monitor setup on this current build. The aforementioned monitor + an ASUS extension+a TV that duplicates primary monitor

I should have mentioned it in my OP, but I run a 3 monitor setup with current build. Is GPU still ok for that?

Planning on doing a gaming build for a friend
>RX 580
>Ryzen7
What mobo and PSU should I use?

If you had an OEM Windows key then it's semi locked to your hardware. OEM keys are the discounted but legitimate manufacturer keys that most people get for like $30 off of kinguin. If you have a legit retail key which are like $120 you can reinstall it as many times as you want on different hardware and get full costumer support if you have problems. Since the OEM keys are sold to be used by manufacturers if you call for support they'll tell you to call the manufacturer. If you are the manufacturer (if you build your own PC and buy an OEM key) they'll basically just tell you to get fucked.

Delid at silicone lottery and buy a NH-D15

yeah, getting it reactivated was a pain because I think I had an OEM 7 license which I then upgraded to a w10 digital license which caused some fuckery. I live chatted a microsoft rep and they sorted it out by giving me a new key, though it took about an hour

C6h
Ax1600

Vega 56 undervolted matches 1080 performance right

Ryzen 7 is overkill since Ryzen 5 already has excessive multicore in terms of gaming
Depends on game and API, but Vega 56 ≈ 1070 Ti and the 1080 is barely any better than that so an OC would place you around there
Undervolting is about efficiency (since AMD doesn't fuck as much with their boost algorithms), not performance.

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Ah true. You wouldnt know if a permanant undervolt is possible instead of just a software based one? Or does stuff like msi afterburner get saved to the card

Would a fan pointed at a bunch of vrms be enough to keep it cool or do they need a heatsink on them to keep cool?

Didn't realize we had a new thread, so sorry for posting the same thing twice.
Here is my under 1k build
pcpartpicker.com/list/LMBt3b
I know it's not the best but keep in mind that I do not want the cost to be over 1k$

Drop to a 2600 + x370 and get a 570/580

>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
$1200
>List your uses - e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
How I use my computer:
Ultra-light gaming (ie shit that can be handled by integrated graphics), 50+ Chrome tabs, 2-3 VMs in parallel, compiling Firefox on Gentoo, torrenting/watching movies
What I'm not doing:
Playing games, photo/video editing, streaming, CAD, mining memecoins
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g. photo editing, gaming) and graphics card pairing
I actually don't have a monitor so I would like something decent to enjoy videos/plug my PS4

Bro at least make up a mock build first

Fuck, I will repost later then

I believe you need to check "apply OC at startup", but that's probably a default option. In order to do a permanent undervolt I think you would need to modify card BIOS.
Depends on what VRM and how much current you're pushing
My Taichi could easily handle anything on AM4 even if I took the heatsinks off, but for most boards you do need some form of cooling.
2600 and B350
Get a 580
Get a 500GB SSD and no HDD
SuperNOVA G3 is better
X370 really doesn't make sense

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Mt advice none the less would be an amd cpu, like a 2600

X370 would be cheaper no? Its being paired with good memory that works on x370 boards

Best place to get Windows 10 Pro 64-bit OEM?

2600 or 8400 for just gaming

Asking for input again.

Resolution will be most likely 1080p, want something that shows a significant improvement.

Not my setup, my initial tip was new GPU (1070Ti or 1080 maybe?) and possibly 8GB more of RAM since DDR3 ain´t so expensive nowadays.

2600 imo but if you never plan to do anything else 8400

What refresh rate

X370 isn't really that much cheaper for what you get
B350 is though
Kinguin
I may as well put it in the OP god damn
Depends on the rest of your system
I prefer Ryzen 5 over i5 for the upgrade path and higher multithread

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I am not going to say these are bad motherboards, however, they need to be flashed in order to use them because the build has a Ryzen AMD CPU and may be incompatible. Just putting that information out there

This is true, most shops do it for you and amd actually sends you a free apu

pcpartpicker.com/product/7v38TW/pny-internal-hard-drive-ssd7cs1311240rb
How's this ssd?

A few should work out of the box by now
Not great for the price
I suggest 480GB if you can afford it

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Pretty expensive for a shitty ssd. So samsung of cheap 500gb

Does a good 1440p 144hz IPS Freesync monitor exist? Or am I doomed to fork out my shekels to nvidia?

Are any of the budge SSD brands reliable? Mid tier stuff like Crucial or Sandisk costs almost as much as Samsung here in Germany, so it's pretty much the choice between a no-name brand or Samshit.

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Poor as fuck here can someone build me a tower for 400$ mainly for gaming and Ansys/Solid works.
Already have the monitor mouse and keyboard btw.

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With a custom waterloop whats the possibility of having the pump idle when the systems just doing basic stuff?

Is the Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB good?
pcpartpicker.com/product/6yKcCJ/samsung-860-evo-500gb-25-solid-state-drive-mz-76e500bam

Or is the Samsung - 850 EVO-Series better for the extra money?
pcpartpicker.com/product/FrH48d/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e500bam

Kingston

Probably not completely relevant, but what's the difference between ryzen and ryzen pro on laptops/mobile?

Making a PC for vidya gaming and am wondering how this looks, Canadian fun bux and looking to keep it under 2.2k while still being good enough for whatever next gen shit is coming out. Got a 1080p monitor but am probably getting 1440p come the end of summer.
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dN7Bq4

I want a GPU around 1070/1070TI performance but I don't know when to expect new cards and if I should just get a GPU for half the price while I wait. Any info on when new cards?

You still need the pump moving even when the CPU is idling.

Just get a 1070ti or Vega56 now. Rumours of new GeForce release in August are gaining momentum if you don't absolutely have to have a new card now.

Thanks, I'll keep my eyes open for a decent deal on their UV500 series.

Man, i cant see it being any quieter than a d15 then.

Build: pcpartpicker.com/list/vQ4kfH

Might as well wait for b450 to be released and see how that turns out

Depends on the pump. A D5 or DDC will be inaudible at 1800 RPM. I simply have my DDC fixed to 1900 RPM regardless of load, and you can't hear it over the exhaust fan or GPU on idle. Coming from a D14 it's definitely a quieter setup, but hugely more expensive to piece together.

>tfw 2560x1600 monitor
Why did this never catch on? It seems to be a dead resolution now and only 1440p is alive. Is there that much of a difference if I'm going with a 1070ti? I assume most of the 1440p benchmarks are going to be similar to 1600p.

2600x not the 2600. Stop recommending the 2600 when it comes with a fucking Wraith Stealth cooler. Like have you seen that shit? It belongs on a fucking duo core.

Really the only suggestion for that cheap is 2200g build.

I´m fucking retarded, forgot pic.

60Hz should be fine.

But really, if my friend tries 1440p I think he would want that.

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>pcpartpicker.com/list/vQ4kfH
looks good, buy honestly you should try for some 3600 mhz ram its only a little bit more

>Like have you seen that shit?
Still works on ryzen up til almost 4ghz

Yo. What do you have already? There are a few things I'd suggest changing though.
>Drop the NH-D15 because the Wraith Prism basically already maxes the 2700x out and still remains like 67c. It's probably the best cooler to ever come with a CPU and your added cooling with the NH-D15 will be seriously negligible.
>Use the extra money from the removed NH-D15 to upgrade your motherboard to the ROG Crosshair VII Hero it's going to give you better quality and performance out of your build because ryzen benefits heavily from having a good Mobo with great RAM overclocked features.
>Upgrade your RAM to a faster clock rate, 3400 is a good high end to shoot for trying to stay as low CAS as possible.
>HOLY FUCKING JESUS CHRIST GET A FUCKING SSD WHAT ARE YOU DOING NIGGER. Something that's 500gb is good. You could go for an 850 Evo, 860 Evo, 960 Evo, 970 Evo, MX500, it really doesn't matter too much. They'll all have around the same rewrites and speed, you'll never be bottlenecked by an SSD gaming.
>an extra case fan or two might be a good idea, noctua is a good choice and the NF-S12A is their 120 case fan model. Look for a similar name at different sizes because you might accidentally buy static high pressure fans meant to be put on radiators and shit. The main difference is that they're louder and are meant to cool something close. The case fans are quieter and push more air.

You won't see a benefit from getting. A GPU better than a 1060 6GB with your current setup. The 1070 and up are designed for 1440p and VR. The 1060 6GB will likely be extremely high end for 1080p 60hz for a few years at least.

I don't believe you that a wraith stealth is pushing a 2600 to 4ghz on all cores for any comfortable length of time. It's literally a $20 difference to get a cooler that's not going to fucking melt your CPU. The 2600 is literally a marketing scam in the same way the 1600x was a marketing scam. Even the 1600 came with a Wraith Spire cooler. They upgraded the CPU going from the 1600 to the 2600 with a higher clock rate and literally stuck their 4-core low end cooler on it.

Since all Ryzen CPUs are unlocked, is there any difference between standard and X chips other than stock clock?

Coolers.

Stock coolers? Who uses them? (other than poorfags)

You should probably buy Intel if you aren't factoring the value of the stock coolers the come with most of the Ryzen cpus. It's probably their primary advantage over Intel from a price standpoint along with their CPUs actually being soldered to the heat sinks. Your going to get better performance out of a delidded and overclocked 8700k with an aftermarket cooler than any ryzen chip if cost isn't a concern.

>if cost isn't a concern

That's not the case. I'm currently assembling my future rig, and I fell in love with mITX form factor, and since the airflow in those cases are not as good as in an mATX case, and I'm planning on overclocking, I was planning on using a AIO watercooler for the CPU either ways.

Oh, well 2600 is a good option then, it's a better option than the 2600x for sure because the overclocked headroom is about the same between the chips.

Guys, so, uh I just bought an mITX case, I also got 400w enlight psu with it. I plan to get asrock ab350 fatal1ty, ryzen 2400g, 250gb samsung ssd, and 2*4 3200mhz ddr4 ram. No GPU for until nvidijew put out new line up.
Can I get away with that shitty psu for a while? At least 3 months or until new GPU come out?

So is it worth gettinf a third party cooler or do i just stick with stock on for the 2600

I bought a red devil 56 for 529$ .

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OK, so basically you're saying I'd be able to overclock a 2600 to the same speeds as a 2600X can be overclocked to? (assuming proper cooling and voltage)

That PSU will be fine until you get a GPU.

It's going to vary based on the silicone lottery. There's supposedly some sort of binning process between the variants to quality control higher guaranteed clock speeds to the x variants but is actually a negligible difference. I'd go with the 2600 100% of the time if you don't care about the cooler.

I wouldn't use the stock cooler on the 2600. You should try and find some videos or data directly addressing this topic but the fact is that they took their 4-core cooler and stuck it on their 6-core to lower the cost.

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That's good to hear. Can I still OC the cpu?

I'm not gonna oc anything so surely the stock cooler will keep it cool enough

Are you in a situation where your build limits you from spending $20 more? Your getting more value out of the 2600x if you aren't overclocking.

how does it?
these all need 440W
Should i go with 500W PSU, or 650W PSU?

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try this
pcpartpicker.com/list/ZDxDZR
just find nice case user
also double check ram compatibility in notes

>pcpartpicker.com/product/TgW9TW/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze
or better standard