/pcbg/ - PC Building General

X370/X470 extra PCIe lanes are lost on mITX but

Also TECHNICALLY you could use all of the lanes on mITX with three m.2 x4 slots. That's 12 lanes used, 8 for gpu, and 4 left over for SATA ports. They just uh... don't as far as I know on any board.
Hey, now you can see that not having X370 and X470 mATX boards is mega-fucking-retarded. Feel free to email ASRock or others about this issue.

This is for many reasons.
People are autistic and think their GPU needs the full x16 lanes, when they don't. You need to drop down to x4 before you see tenths of a percentage drop in gaymes or anything else. x8 is still overkill bandwidth for a 1080ti or vega 64.

And just dumb marketing shit. People think X370/X470 is just better, so they gimp the quality of b350 boards arbitrarily even though the chipset is perfectly sufficient.

idk if they're worse than Gigabyte or not at this point, desu.
I had some annoying problems with their BIOS on a 300 series board, but I mean it works. Don't know about memory compatibility. I'd go by user reviews of them.

What are my options for 32"-42" 4k monitors at the moment? I've tried to keep an eye on new releases but they all seem to have one critical flaw that's a dealbreaker. I was looking forward to the Philips 436M6VBPAB, but it turns out to have a weird pixel grid and static dithering that looks like shit.

I just want to have a huge workspace without scaling.

Biostar is never gonna be a good option if you have any more money, and CPU depends on the rest of your build/budget
SATA is all the same desu
It's cool if you have the money

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Budget is $1,600 and plan to use for games, vm's and some video rendering. Mainly just looking for a big jump from my 2500k gtx 760 and 8gb of ram.

pcpartpicker.com/list/chZPJ8

Not sure if it's worth it with a 1070, since your frame rates won't be very high at that resolution. I'm personally questioning if that type of monitor is even worth it for a 1080, since a lot of the benchmarks I'm seeing rarely go above 100 Hz at 1440p.

You might want to check out any videos covering 1070 benchmarks, to see what the frame rates might be like for the types of games you're interested in.

Honestly, that's just a pretty solid build man. Noctua fans aren't exactly the best perf per dollar fans, but they're straight up one of the best.

I was literally just switching my order of Vardars to the 2000rpm version.

what monitor? video card might be overkill depending on what resolution/fps you want

looks solid desu

MX500, WD Blue, SU900 are standard options. Can find older model MX and SU on sale now and then, and 850 Evo for that matter, but only worth it if far cheaper and you don't care about the speed. (SU650 is just plain MLC, iirc, not 3D)
860 Evo if it's on sale for the same price as the above. NOT worth paying a premium for above the above models.
860 Pro if you need the bit of extra speed and higher warranty, TBW.
Fast NVMe are useful as scratch disks, working drives, when you say need to move hundreds of MB of video around often as they have higher transfer rates. Does not affect boot/load times.
Optane 900p can be really good when paired with StoreMi. They don't overheat and throttle like NVMe do, have massively better ops/sec performance, lower latency, etc. But I wish they were closer to NVMe prices.
Also this. Generally not worth getting an SSD that's under like 4.3 stars on Amazon. ie Patriot garbage.
Actually.. SU900 are only 4.1. A lot worse than the SU800. I guess they dropped in quality with the new model and aren't worth recommending anymore.

1440p 144hz is kind of the sweet spot. Otherwise you'd be running 4k upscaled since nothing can reliably drive 4K well in half of games, let alone nearly all or all.

pcpartpicker.com/product/ttnG3C/acer-monitor-xb271hubmiprz is a good choice, afaik.
It's basically the same as the best gaming Freesync monitor, which is pcpartpicker.com/product/wFfhP6/nixeus-nx-edg27s-270-2560x1440-144hz-monitor-nx-edg27s for anyone also looking for that.

For 4k without scaling don't you want more around 50"-55"? I scale 125% on 1920x1200 24" at arm's length.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/chZPJ8
Why not use stock cooler?
No monitor?
Those fans come in black now, btw.
Case choice is pretty okay. But I'd get Jonsbo if sexy and more compact is more important than airflow for you and GPU fits (should iirc).
>vms
but not GPU passthrough ones?

I hate to do this, but have fun.
pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#r=384002160&W=3100,4300
I might be able to help some more if you want IPS or stated your budget
Spend less on case fans and more on motherboard
You can get the massdrop 1080 for that price
massdrop.com/buy/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1080-windforce-oc-8gb

1440p

planning on overclocking.

suggestion for a motherboard?

thanks for the help bros

Is water cooling a meme?

Depends on your case

40" 4k is about the same ppi as a 24" 1080p screen which I'm currently using 2 of. It's pretty nice, but I wouldn't want to go any lower in ppi, I'm a lot more comfortable with my laptop's [email protected]" actually.

Budget is around $1k, and I'd prefer VA, since I'd rather deal with black crush over the general low contrast of IPS. Refresh rate doesn't matter either since I'm not going to be gaming much.

I guess I should pick something with a decent DCI-P3 coverage at least though, it seems to be the norm amongst modern screens. I can get it calibrated myself, so factory accuracy isn't very important.

My 1600/Wraith Spire was running on full load at 3.7ghz/1.325v the whole day. It was 80F in my room when I got home and my CPU was maxing out at 74C with fan RPM maxing at 2900RPM.
Should I spring for a DH15s?

>since your frame rates won't be very high at that resolution.
lmao I play 2560x1600 on an RX580 in almost everything. Most modern games (and even some older ones) look and run better on a mix of medium and high at higher resolution than maxed at lower resolution because they have shitty anti aliasing and more pixels is the only way to fix their shitty AA.

Also most "max" or "ultra" settings are just there to make the game run worse for benchmarks, not actually look better.

>gigabyte windforce
I have those. Somehow reviews measure its dB as quiet, but you'll find others saying they're loud as fuck if you google "gigabyte windforce noise". And I have the 1070 model, same cooler, and it's fucking loud. And it's not just the dB, it's the particular pitch of the sound that's annoying and penetrates through a case so it's harder to muffle.

>1440p
isn't saying much

AIO? Yes. Custom loop? If you can afford it and enjoy making it and the risks that can come with it, no.

Anyone here use EVGA CLCs?

>getting a goysync monitor

Strix, Gaming 7, Taichi
Gaming 5 if you can't do those
Any 280mm AIO is gonna be marginally better than air at best (and worse whenever Noctua releases 140mm coolers with their new fans)
Custom is as good as it gets unless you delve into subambient, but even then you can chill it
74C is perfectly fine though
Well he was already gonna get a Gigabyte card so I figure it isn't gonna be that much different since card coolers kinda suck in general

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If prices were equal: 580 8GB or 1060 6GB

>74C is perfectly fine though
With the fan running at almost 100% of its rated RPM?

> am Canadian, creating my build in pc part picker
> the site changes back to the American version at times for various reasons
> see drastic decreases in prices
> think for a second that things are on sale
> no it's just the American site again

Every time it happens I die a little more inside.

being a leaf is suffering

I for one can't wait to fuck off from this worthless stagnant shithole.

74C is still technically perfectly safe, even if it doesn't feel nice emotionally.
DH15s is likely overkill, but it might not hurt to get a new cooler if you also plan to use it in a Zen2 or Zen3 upgrade.
Sure. Just at load, right? I mean it'll wear down the fan but you can always replace it when it dies instead of sooner.

Oh I see why reviews show it not appearing that loud.
They compare it to reference blowers LOL.
guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-1080-g1-gaming-review,11.html
How fucking garbage does your triple fan cooler have to be to be ON PAR with reference blowers? Fuck Gigabyte always.

It's a mistake to get Gigabyte either way. Same way I told people to fuck off from those Gigabyte Vega ones.

Getting new monitor? Obviously RX580. You save like $80-$300 on monitor and generally have better choice.
Not to mention, Nvidia doesn't have dithering support so you get ugly as shit banding with local dimming monitors.
Sticking with 1080p 60hz for the foreseeable future? Whichever is cheaper, which is usually 1060 6GB. However there is an RX580 4GB on sale at Newegg for $210 with some code from the previous thread. 4GB, given Polaris has compression, is generally enough VRAM. Worst case, you may need to turn textures down to "high" instead of maxed in some future games, or any current ones that may push the VRAM (GR wildlands I think does? idk)

But equal prices, and not already on a Gsync monitor? RX580 is the obvious choice. And I'd also highly recommend a newer Freesync monitor. Even the jump from 60hz to 75hz is a huge noticeable difference.

Can't you just go across the border to buy stuff cheap?

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/R2t2xG

For software development and gaming (I plan to upgrade my 960 eventually).

This is basically as high as I want to go budget-wise unless I can be convinced of a serious value add by going higher.

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About the same in terms of card, but 1060 doesn't do FreeSync
Not great, but you don't necessarily need to upgrade. And a D15 would be on the opposite end of the spectrum where you really don't need to spend that much
Consider waiting for what Noctua does with the A12x25 and if the prices are good
U12S is not great for such high heat
Memory is slow
PSU is too cheap imo
Do you have a point in getting an i7 over a Ryzen 7?

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at load. I'm at 60c currently with 100% usage per hwinfo. Ambient is currently ~75f

Is this an Ok CPU cooler for overclocking 8700k:

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181140&ignorebbr=1

I'm doing a MicroATX build if that makes a difference on suggestions.

>Consider waiting for what Noctua does with the A12x25 and if the prices are good
redbull me on this one

>Is biostar an acceptable
fuck no, and mitx is a faggot meme, stop being a macfag and get a atx or at least matx

>U12S is not great for such high heat
I don't plan to OC (or only marginally so, maybe I'll turn on "multicore optimisation"). A bigger cooler would mean changing the case. Can I get a better air cooler than the U12S that isn't any larger and doesn't cost a lot more? I also like the look of Noctuna's mounting system which is why I want one of theirs. The 212 etc looks horribly fiddly.
>Memory is slow
OK, I've swapped out to 3000MHz
>PSU is too cheap imo
I was told Seasonic is very reliable, 620 should be plenty for a single GPU system, and I don't need or want full modular etc. What would I be paying extra for?
>Do you have a point in getting an i7 over a Ryzen 7?
Overall I value per-core/4-core perf more than multicore. Better for emulation, VR, etc. My development workload is multicore but not to the same degree as video encoding etc.

Also I'll probably want to add a hackintosh partition at some point and don't want to deal with AMD hacks (I know it's possible, just more trouble).

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you need a new gpu not cpu, and for compiling ryzen is better.

What's a good price for a Vega 56?

Thanks for the feedback user, unfortunately you posted a few seconds too early to see my response to the other reply I'll upgrade the GPU eventually, I enjoy games but I'm not very particular about graphics settings/framerate as long as it's playable and fun.

pcpartpicker.com/list/tCBRV6
I can't decide if I should go for 1440p 144hz or 4k 60hz. I play all types of games. Is the 144hz REALLY worth it, or should I just go for higher resolution?

>Better for emulation, VR, etc.
VR literally is 100% gpu bound, and emulaton on modern ps3, xbox360, wiiu emulators are good on ryzen, spend less on your cpu and get a 1060/580 or something like that

XF270HU is better 4k is a meme on PC until 120hz 4k monitors and the hardware to run it is out

valid.x86.fr/vi7drf

meme overclock

Does anyone know why a new build would take a long time to post when booting? I tried looking in the BIOS settings for any unnecessary features that could be disabled but didn't really see anything

>hackintosh
>being a macfag
buy intel and leave you don't belong on Jow Forums

memory training and shits mostly.

Do you have your red RGB turned on?

I did see memory training, what is that?

Nah senpai that sucks
Dual tower air cooler + delid or you shouldn't even bother with a K model
At Computex the demo'd a U12S redesign (denser fins and better fans) that performs similar to D15
If you value per-core you should do real OC, or get the 8700/2700X since they are both cheaper
$400 and nothing more
I'm kidding of course, but nothing over $500
144Hz, but get a G-SYNC panel if you have an NVIDIA card
Some hardware can just be like that
How long is it for the BIOS prompt to flash on? More than 10s and you might have an issue

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especially on ryzen, the board tries up different timings and freq to boot ddr4 memory. this takes some time. the same also applies when you change your ramsticks. its not on all boards, on other boards, they just boot 2133 MHz with like 15 15 15 15 35 which is like a surefire way to boot.

I don't want to be one of those people who asks for advice and then ignores it, but
>get a 1060
I'm not looking to buy gaming gear right now. This build is primarily for work at the moment with a view to improving gaming performance later on.
>spend less on your cpu
I'd rather overspend a little right now and get the extra single-core/4-thread performance. Look at benchmarks for current games on older CPU generations- it's always the per-core performance that hurts them, not a lack of cores. I don't upgrade often so I need it to last.
I dunno if you've ever done any web development (especially node), but it's way nicer on osx than on Windows.
>If you value per-core you should do real OC
I could always buy some kind of premium liquid cooler later on and up my OC, the hardware I've selected will work well with that except for the cooler. Or delid in a few years when my warranty is done anyway.

Oh, what's the point of that? Can't I just manually set those parameters instead of having the board try to do it for me and take a long time?

I'm going to go against the consensus here and say that I wouldn't want to buy a new sub-4K monitor anymore. Having said that:
1. Some people REALLY love high frame rates- if you haven't tried one, go demo a 144hz monitor somewhere.
2. 27" is small enough that you'll probably need to apply scaling, which mitigates one of the benefits of 4K (more work space). I'd want 32"+.

>web development
>Development
more like babby programming and linux is better for that and works on proper hardware

sure. after the initial boot. it really depends on the board man. its just for once, dont worry. after you POSTed, itll be faster next time.

>newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181140&ignorebbr=1
>that 2mm thick radiator
>that narrow single fan
lol.
At stock speeds, that's it. Even then might require a delid if you got unlucky.

$480-$530 at the moment, though prices seem to be trending down in general.

60hz just isn't enough for gayming, so that rules out 4k.

Why not the Nixeus, Monoprice, or Mbest though?
Nixeus is a good quality AHVA, has adaptive overdrive, and their warranty and QC are some of the better ones.
Monoprice has HDR, albeit 8bit+FRC and it's TN.
Mbest is the lowest latency and response time IPS monitor you can get (not just lowest Freesync, lowest compared to Gsync monitors afaik as well. Could be wrong tho).
Assuming you're not fucking up getting Freesync when you have an Nvidia card, here.

VR is 90hz and not all CPUs can reliably drive 90fps minimum for the smoothest experience.

Sure. And if it fails so hard it won't POST, it then tries lower timings until it can POST.
Once you have working memory settings, it will remember that and not cycle timings anymore.

If that's not what's making your POST times long, it could be a faulty motherboard or BIOS. b350 Tomahawk had a bad problem with that on early BIOS (or production runs?).

I'd like 4K and would be happy to play like 1500-1800p upscaled if I had to, but 60hz just isn't enough.

The thing is that you can do like 1800p downsampled to 1440p and it looks VERY similar to 1800p upsampled to 4k. But you also benefit from being able to play at a higher framerate since there are 1440p 144hz monitors but there aren't even 4k 75hz monitors.
I play 2560x1600 downsampled to 1920x1200 in most games and it's the same concept. I also have a 4K TV I use as my second monitor so I can try the two side by side and the 4K upscaled doesn't look terribly better. It'd be less of a difference if I were on 2560x1440 and downsampling from a bit higher resolution.

G-guys I have no idea what happened to my Alienware X51. It had green pixels then on a reboot it wouldn’t boot and gives consistent beeps. I wish I knew what was wrong. I thought maybe it was the graphics card but shouldn’t it stilll load from the on board graphics?? Meaning it’s the ___?

I’ve been thinking I would try to build a new system using the i7 and mobo but now I don’t even know what’s wrong to know what to replace.. scared I may be better off starting a new... wanted opinion if it’s worth the effort to keep if I would even be saving money it’s an i7,3770, GTX660 8,GB DDR3

I’m pretty upset about the whole thing and don’t want to be without a computer but right now spending 1000+ on a computer seems financially selfish.

Idk. Do have a Best Buy credit card to space it out if I can build a cheap but good pc from what they have available unless that’s a bad route

Would appreciate help

>babby
All things considered, it would be more interesting to work in firmware reverse engineering or something like that. But I'm reasonably good at what I do, and it pays the bills.
>linux is better for that
I can't really agree. I get sent PPT/PPTX files all the time with specs, and both libreoffice and WINE are really shitty experiences compared to the native mac Office apps.

>VR is 90hz and not all CPUs can reliably drive 90fps minimum for the smoothest experience.
If youyr cpu is so shit that it cant to 90fps on a good gpu than its prob something bulldozer/phenom/core 2 or pre coffeelake i3

>$400-$500
Isn't this also the price range of the 1070ti? Is it worth getting the 56 over it if I have a Freesync monitor?

>sure. after the initial boot. it really depends on the board man. its just for once, dont worry. after you POSTed, itll be faster next time.
hmm, it's been taking a long time for every time I've rebooted since I built it Saturday. I have the RAM manually set to 2933 MHz and XMP on so I don't know why it's trying different frequencies

Well, don't give up on your current system until you're sure it's dead. Yank the graphics card out to rule it out as the culprit. Try to find a motherboard manual, look up the meaning of the beep pattern and/or any status LEDs that might be on the motherboard. Remove and reinsert the CMOS battery, etc.

Also try reddit Jow Forumstechsupport or the buildapc discord.

i need a new cpu and itx board, after selling my i5-6600k and thinking id be fine with my G4560 in the htpc i realized im not.

im leaning towards i3 because now they are quad core, i dont overclock anyway. is the i3 good enough for daily tasks and occasional gaming or do i need to pay the extra $60 for the cpu and settle with a 1060 3GB rather than a 1060 6GB?

basically: i3-8100 & 1060 6GB or i5-8400 1060 3GB, which one is better overall? i won't be upgrading for the next few years and i only play gta4/5 and csgo because i rarely have time...

>i3-8100 & 1060 6GB or i5-8400 1060 3GB
If you must choose, I'd go with the former. New games really love more VRAM, and there are also other differences between the two models.
But I'd strongly encourage you to save up a bit and get both. The i3 will be fine for right now but you might regret it in a couple years. i5 will last you a lot longer.

Uhhh Gamer's Nexus did this test and anything less than a 7700k or 1700X was not enough for a consistent 90fps minimum for 99.99%+ of frames, IIRC.
Actually think the 1700X was slightly lower than that.

Your 4c/4t Haswell or even Skylake is not going to handle it when even a 7700k doesn't always deliver 100% of frames over 90fps despite having nothing running in the background and even internet i/o and other basic services disabled. You seem deluded, dunno what else to say.

Vega56 is slightly better performance at 1440p for AIB cards, and overclocks slightly better (though worse power consumption overclocked), and 1440p Freesync monitors are anywhere from $100-$300 cheaper than Gsync. Perf/watt is roughly the same as long as you're not using one of those "OC BIOS" that heavily overvolt inefficiently, as well.
Makes no sense to buy a 1070Ti unless you already have Gsync right now and hasn't for the past few weeks.

The AIB Vega56 cards are way better than the reference blowers that throttled and were clocked way too low, and drivers have improved performance considerably compared to the latest Nvidia drivers on top of that.

So if you're comparing to 1070Ti and current 1070Ti prices, Vega56 is the easy choice right now unless you already have a Gsync monitor.

i5-8400 and 1060 6GB. If you can't afford that, you just shouldn't bother as the other two options both suck.
But for CSGO and GTA5, I don't quite understand why the G4560 isn't enough. It should be enough with a dGPU.
Why don't you just get a 2400G, if you just need an upgrade from the Pentium's iGPU?

>it's always the per-core performance that hurts them, not a lack of cores.
Incorrect, and that's why i5s now have 2 more cores than they used to. Per-core matters less and less with new games.
There isn't any point in getting an 8700K that you won't overclock.
If video card is dead, buy a new one. If your board, CPU, or RAM is dead you should get a new system.
Investigate the debug beeps first
If you don't get anywhere remove the video card and run off integrated
If that doesn't work you probably need a new PC
Only get AMD cards with FreeSync and vice versa
Why would you sell a 6600K judt to turn around and buy an objectively worse processor? You are a real fucking retard
Anyway, couldn't you upgrade the G4560 you have to a 7700?

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>There isn't any point in getting an 8700K that you won't overclock.
First: Even if I don't heavily OC it right now, I could always change my mind in a couple years. Get a slightly better cooler if necessary, delid, and start tweaking. I don't mind paying a little extra now in order to keep that door open.
Second: If I do decide to upgrade earlier than planned, I'm told K chips hold their value better.

This might not be the best place to ask but I don't want to start a new thread. Is disabling SMT on a Ryzen 1600 bad? Is there any long term effects? The only way I can play Battlefield 1 is with it disabled because there is some problem with Ryzen CPUs, I guess.

Attached: 1528772526079.png (672x738, 18K)

>Isn't this also the price range of the 1070ti? Is it worth getting the 56 over it if I have a Freesync monitor?
To clarify better, only reason you should be using 144hz Freesync with an Nvidia GPU is if you're poor and going to lock games to 144 or 72 fps. Otherwise you're going to see tearing in the 80-100fps, or sub 60fps range.

If you already have a Freesync monitor... it's an obvious choice to get an AMD card when the price/performance is similar, which it is right now.
I know some people who have Nvidia GPUs and just get Freesync because they can't afford Gsync.

>I could always change my mind in a couple years
Almost no one who buys Intel k CPUs actually does this. The people who OC are enthusiasts who do it from the start. I only actually see people do what you're saying with AMD CPUs since there's more unlocked CPUs/boards and they tend to be budget to begin with so you get more value.
It'll make more sense to get a new 7nm CPU. Less than a year from now 8700k performance will be superceeded by the 3700X just like the 8700k and 2700X superceeded 7700k performance beyond what you could reasonably overclock the 7700k to.

Overclock the 8700k and you're just going to draw 250watts to underperform a 125watt 7nm 8 core.

>Is disabling SMT on a Ryzen 1600 bad?
Bad in that SMT is good and you shouldn't disable it.
Some benchmarks show games getting a few % lower FPS with SMT enabled, but benchmarks don't represent real world usage.
In the real world you have things running in the background, and things like even your internet i/o, that all use CPU and make use of the SMT to keep the game running smooth.
>The only way I can play Battlefield 1 is with it disabled because there is some problem with Ryzen CPUs, I guess.
It should work fine. Maybe you just need to update BIOS if it's a microcode issue?

But no disabling it won't hurt your PC. Is this some widely reported issue on their forums or something for a new update of the game?

yeah thats what i had in mind, if i buy both used i can still stay under $450
the dGPU is very not enough, the i5's was not either. i was only able to play csgo properly with the dgpu. i need an upgrade both for gpu and the cpu - the g4560 is in another machine anyway. I am thinking of the 2400g, even though it's not on par as the 1060 (either) it would be like half the price of total costs so im considering it

i had the g4560 as my daily before, but i guess i also had less free time then so it felt okay. keeping the good memories in my mind i thought with an increased free time i'd still be okay, turns out i was wrong. there's nothing wrong with acting back on fond experiences

If you don't OC now there is hardly an advantage over Ryzen
Also, Ryzen socket support should be around for a couple years so they would hold their value the best because you can keep the motherboard
I really can't find a logical reason to do this since in any situation you end up shooting your foot by spending more than you had to
Either
>Buy an 8700K and do a full OC
>Buy an 8700 and run stock
>Buy a Ryzen 7 and do whatever you want since you have a free cooler so you can't lose any money
Disabling SMT means less power usage and less multithread performance (multithreading increases multicore performance and power draw roughly by 40%)
It won't hurt your PC but I would keep it on whenever possible because free performance

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manual the timings and try to loosen it a bit.

Upgrading from a 4690k to a ryzen 2700. Is there any odd quirks with linux i should know about? Ill still be using my old 960 as a gpu and what would be the best dual channel 8gb kit for it?

>Overclock the 8700k and you're just going to draw 250watts to underperform a 125watt 7nm 8 core.
user I really do appreciate you taking the time to advise me but I don't mind paying ~19% extra now to keep open the possibility of a free 10-15% boost (Free aside from cooler cost, and coolers can be reused). That's enough to make it worth it. (Actually it's more than that since the K is slightly faster at stock than an 8700)

2700X here. no problems whatsoever. for a kit, samsung b die kits.

Why do you have a fixed budget and why do you have to buy immediately? Wait until you can raise the difference and get the i5+1060 6GB.

Cheers. Should i wait for the new chipsets? Not really interested in overclocking.

because i dont want to spend too much money. if i go over $500 after all is said and done i'm just going to sell my macbook pro and get a blade stealth and have a single computer.

i dont have to buy immediately but it kinda sucks only having my macbook to do anything especially when i have a shit ton of time after work because im an antisocial dude.

and tbqh i can do that now its just i dont want to spend $70 on something that wont make a difference when that gets me about 2 tanks of gas and therefore about 500 miles of fun

well, the new chipset is out, x470. if you meant you wanna get a b450, then yeah, you gonna wait a while.

I've also heard that battlefield performance tanks when SMT is on
I would blame EA and get on with it
I don't get the point of an upgrade like that if all you don't even have enough for 16GB of memory
I urge you to save up $100 more so you can get a 2700X and more RAM
Z490 was cancelled, so no. Stick with X470.

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spend the extra $30 on a 2700x

Has anyone tried modding their case side? I want to add a window, I just don't want to fuck it up and be out a case. Also do I need to use tempered glass or can I use normal glass.

Yours is a fair perspective, but in a few years you'll probably cuss yourself out for not paying that $70. I can't wholeheartedly recommend that you get the i3. I went with a Haswell i3 back in 2014; it worked great back then and I can still play recent games, but looking at the 100% CPU utilisation I can see that it was the wrong choice.

just chainsaw that shit and superglue some glass in there nigga

This
Better stock cooler and much more aggressive turboing

I was gonna get one kit now and one later but i dont mind grabbing 16 right now. Im not strapped for cash. I didnt state it earlier but i dont play games as much anymore. 5 Hours a fortnight at best.

Dammit, when are they gonna release cheaper intel motherboards that work with high frequency RAM?

Never

But why would you do that
At that point you should buy a new case since the point of a window is to look nice and that's only gonna look ghetto
One now and one later is only going to be more expensive and less stable since the sticks weren't binned together.
You think they will? There's a higher chance of 10nm releasing tomorrow.

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this

Fair enough. Ill aim for a quad channel low profile 16gb kit then.

Dammit.

Quad channel makes no sense for a few reasons:
-Your memory slots will be full
-Consumer processors only have 2 channels so no performance benefit
-8GB sticks are usually the best in terms of performance
Not like you need it with a locked processor lol

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>that's only gonna look ghetto
Because I like my case now, there's no window version and the guys on YouTube make it look pretty easy. I just don't want to pay so much for a small piece of tempered glass and I don't want plexiglass. Just didn't know if the temperatures in the case would break normal glass.

Well I was wondering, for something like, say, a i5-8400, would 3200 make a lot of compared to 2666?