Power Banks

The devices have no information on how thin the cable is, they'll try to draw maximum current as long as battery sensors let it (they'll slow it down for high temps or high voltages)

basically its up to the usb cable manufacturers to make sure the wires can handle the maximum current allowed by the USB standard. Device manufacturers will sometimes include cables that are only beefy enough for the device they're selling.

An old cable from an mp3 player that charged at .5 amps is not likely to carry enough current without overheating if you plugged it into a tablet that charges at 2 amps. The tablet will still try to pull 2 amps, but if the cable can't handle it the insulation will melt off and the copper will fry. this is partly why they tell you to use the cables that come with the device, not other cables.

i bought a bunch of like $1 powerbank enclosures off ebay and throw any 18650s i salvage from old laptops and shit in there. infinite hours of mediocre-individually powerbanks

>Buy Chinkmi 2 10000mah bank for $13
>people say it fries their phone
>used it for 2 years, no issues
Guess I got lucky

>powerbank enclosures

I use the tomo powerbanks that let you slide in your own 18650's. handy because it checks and reads back the levels of each cell individually. super easy to swap cells in and out, only ever need one enclosure for all the loose cells you have

Attached: original-tomo-diy-kit-dual-usb-output-smart[1].jpg (600x599, 43K)

Thank you very much for the explanation! That is kind of what I figured.

Still easier to get a Anker 20,000 mAh one.

the problem with that is the Anker comes with cells already inside of it. and gives you zero opportunities to recycle old cells.
anker is literally no different than any other generic power bank in this reguard.

thats pretty cool, i also have one of because it did 12v output. The cheapo DIY ones I just give out if someone needs one. They're practically free, after all.

>still easier to buy new batteries instead of use the ones you already have

just because its easier to do doesn't mean it accomplishes the same thing

>2018
>Still no decent USB-C power delivery power banks

Attached: think.png (2688x2688, 173K)

The anker is $45. The Tomo $20, not counting the cost of the cells you put in. It holds four 18650's. So in the end you have much less capacity than the Anker.

Probly never will be, USBC is fucked in that regard.

>Friend buys 20000 mAh powerbank
>he said it's too heavy and gave it to me after a few weeks

I swear I can use it as a blunt weapon

but the fact remains that I have 25+ loose recycled 18650 cells in my house with nothing else to use them for. I realize that isn't most people, but I bet theres lots of people on Jow Forums with extra lithium cells.

If you pull apart an old laptop you'll likely find 6-8 cells that are still well functioning.

In the end I have much higher capacity in a much smaller (relatively) form factor if carrying 1 tomo case and 25 cells, than If I'm carrying one 20,000mAh anker
also the anker holds 6 cells, the tomo functions fine with only one cell. If weight is a concern, which it is for me, a six cell battery pack is both too heavy and has too much capacity for my needs.

The resistance of the connection from charger to phone can limit the charge rate.
voltage=current*resistance
This means that the current causes a voltage drop due to the resistance in the connection. Resistance in the connectors and resistance in the ground and power conductors is what counts. Resistance in the connectors can be increased by corrosion and oxidation. Resistance in the conductors is a proportional to cable length and inversely proportional to metal conductivity and conductor size.

>The devices have no information on how thin the cable is
They have a little. When they draw current they can see the voltage drop. They use voltage drop to determine how much current they can get from a charger and this is how USB resistance ends up limiting charge rate. It's possible to design a cable that will melt but the currents involved are so small that you would really have to try or be a super chink.

Attached: AWG rating.jpg (1152x581, 112K)

Wiring standards are national/regional. Chinkshit obeys none of them.

I have the 10k one plus power bank quite comfy

And most people if they have 18650's laying around have old shitty ones with low capacity.

Yep. "low" capacity is relative though. I'm sure some of these I use are 10~ years old and they're still perfectly reasonable.

Thread ended 6 hours ago. Why is anyone still replying and bumping?

True enough but we're not talking about critical shit here. 28 gauge is really fucking small.

>but the fact remains that I have 25+ loose recycled 18650 cells in my house with nothing else to use them for.

I know that feel. What's the difference between the different Tomo models? The only obvious difference I can see is some are 4 cell and others are 2.

I bought an amazon basic power bank. Mostly for music festivals and camping, although i mostly camp in national forests where there aren’t any signals.

Worked great. There was a recall on that model though. I just finally got around to shipping it back for a replacement

I have one of pic related, Atomi AT1037 6Ah.

Fits in my pocket nicely, and it's rugged as fuck (dropped it down a concrete flight of stairs once, the plastic panel over the LCD got pretty scuffed up but otherwise it practically looks like new)

Can charge my V20 from almost-dead to completely full, and still have some juice to spare.

Attached: 18f82d23-467f-477c-b778-5be94dfffa07_1.2e818f5faf0f03f39866fd960d17d784.jpg (450x450, 14K)

You're kind of right, kind of not.

The impedance/foot for 28AWG wire is more than double that of 24AWG wire. So, electrically, there are differences, although those differences are usually negligible with wires that are only ~3 feet long. It does become important once you start dealing with longer cables, though. USB spec actually has rules about maximum cable length, partly because of line inductance and noise, but also because of the resistance of a really long, thin wire.

28AWG wire, which is commonly used in cheaper cables, is generally rated for 1.5ish amps of continuous current. 24AWG, used in "fast charging" cables, is rated for 3.5A. However, you *can* push many times that current rating through a wire. If ohm's law says 10A is gonna flow through a 28AWG wire, then 10A is gonna flow through the wire. It'll probably get a little toasty, though.

Attached: Capture.png (702x626, 42K)

Don't powerbank with screens(especially the ones with backlitght) draw out more power?

I'm intrested in this kind of power banks. How long does one of those cells last?

any existing powerbanks with Quick charge AND wireless charging ? for my s8+.

Or at least a decent one with quick charging, doesn't have to be big, one full charge is enough, but so that it charges as fast as from an outlet (1.5h or so)

How fast does it charge?

don't plug it into the USB 1/2 slots on your computer. use a fast charge kit adapter (from your phone) and plug it into a wall outlet.

Tripfag

What about anker.com/es/products/variant/powercore-26800-pd/A1375011 for pd

I got this very Powerbank for free on accident from some glitch during an amazon black friday. Amazing powerbank, made my phone last over a week abroad alone, reliable as fuck, and built like a tank. If you have a switch, this thing is powerful enough to power the switch while docked. In handheld, you can easily get over 30 hours non stop gameplay in demanding games with wi-fi on. Good shit. Would reccomend. Has fast charge too for supported devices.

>use a fast charge kit adapter (from your phone)

If the power bank doesn't have fast charge, won't the charger deliver its lowest current?
ie: isn't it better to use a "dumb" 2A charger if it doesn't have fast charge?

At 2.1A chink cables can get fairly warm and there have been instances of USB cables melting and even catching fire.
If you're not sure of the cable quality, don't use it with a fast charger.

Don't fast chargers have electronics that prevent cables from melting?

The old style fast charge tech was just "try to draw as much as possible", which can burn shit cables. Qualcomm quick charge and Oppo VOOC (used in OP phones too) are smart at both ends so they can try to prevent putting too much current on a bad cable, but you're way better off just not using uncertified cables for anything.

Mine are RavPower and work fine.

>buys the cheapest chinkshit 34 AWG aluminum wire'd USB cable

We need another Hitler for brainlets