/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find more detailed videos on YouTube)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install older Windows with USB 3
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

If you want help
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses - e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g. photo editing, gaming) and graphics card pairing

Overclocking
>DON'T BUY AN 8000K CPU OR Z300 BOARD IF YOU AREN'T OVERCLOCKING
>Delid 8000K
>Use Precision Boost 2 offsets for Ryzen 2000X

CPUs
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming (dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G - Consider if close to 2200G price
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>i7-8700K - Best for gaming, but most expensive platform & delid necessary
>R7 2700/X - Best mainstream high-end mixed usage
>Threadripper/used Xeon - VM Work / Streaming / Video editing

Motherboards
>Don't buy A320 (All Ryzen is unlocked)
>Only Z300 Intel boards can utilize memory over 2666MHz

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - Too much for most users
>2933MHz+ is ideal; 3200 CL14 is B-die

Storage
>StoreMI can make HDDs better
>Consider getting a larger SSD instead of SSD+HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 can be SATA or PCIe
>PCIe/NVMe for intensive use only

Video cards
>SLI and CrossFire are unadvisable
MSRP of common cards
>(GTX) 1050- $110, Ti- $140; 1060 3GB- $200, 6GB- $230; 1070- $380, Ti- $450; 1080- $500, Ti- $700
>(RX) 570 4GB- $170; 580 8GB- $230; Vega 56- $400; Vega 64- $500
1080p
>1050 Ti, 1060 3/6GB, or 570/580
>1070 or Vega 56 if you're looking for 100+ fps & have a CPU to match
1440p
>1070/Ti, 1080 or Vega 56/64
>1080 Ti if you're looking for 100+ fps & have a CPU to match
2160p
>1080 Ti

Monitors
>G-SYNC only with high budget/refresh rate
>Always consider FreeSync with RX cards
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

Previous

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Other urls found in this thread:

it-tempel.ch/Pavilion-Power-Desktop-580-066ng7th-gen-IntelZ-Core-i7-7700-8M-Cache-36-GHz-8GB-DDR4-SDRAM-1000GB-HDD-128GB-SSD-Intel-HD-Graphics-630-AMD-Radeon-RX-580-8GB-GDDR5-DVD-Super-Multi-LAN-WLAN-Windows-10-Home-64-bit
pcpartpicker.com/list/GhdpKB
pcpartpicker.com/list/vytVFt
pcpartpicker.com/list/K7ZgnH
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438095&cm_re=EVGA_SuperNOVA-_-17-438-095-_-Product
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151203&ignorebbr=1
pcpartpicker.com/list/hKCspG
pcpartpicker.com/list/V4FFZR
pcpartpicker.com/list/LHvzP3
pcpartpicker.com/list/N3CBq4
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/N3CBq4
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/7sKFZR
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/h38h7W
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

>havent built a computer in 8 years
>have physical anxiety about the thought of putting together another one even though ive had all the parts sitting in my room for the last 3 days

i didnt ask for this feel

Is there any reason to have more than one GPU in a PC besides crypto mining these days?

Its not hard, you will have more troubles setting up windows than building it.

No.

why tho, building is comfy

It's super easy though
3DMark high scores or VM passthrough

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i know its easy but it doesnt change the fact that my hands are shaky and sweaty and i can feel my heart speeding up even just unboxing it and laying it all out

brainlet here, why not buy a320

I initially specced out the list on the left, then decided to try cutting corners and see what the result would be. Now I'm trying to decide whether "atx2" is really £226 better than "atx3". It feels hard to justify that when they're realistically going to perform very similarly, but my intuition is that in a few years' time I'll regret the cheap case/locked CPU/stock cooler/mobo with fewer features.

I can afford atx2 but that doesn't mean I'm not price sensitive- if I can save £226 without really feeling the drawbacks, I should probably do the financially responsible thing.

(Also please ignore the SSD- I'm swapping in an 860 from another build, the Kingston is to replace that.)

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That's the only non-overclockable chipset, you can still OC the memory but normally there are B350 motherboards at a similar price

The Pro4 is already like $50 so I don't see why you would cripple yourself and your build's resale value by not getting OC features
I wouldn't opt for either desu
Cooler and PSU aren't great for the left, and locked chips don't make much sense (neither does single channel RAM)
Also doesn't make sense to buy less than 480GB SSD for any reason since they are bad value

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hey guys I was on the previous thread regarding my not booting, just tested my psu with the paper clip trick it worked, so does this mean my problem is because the BIOS isnt updated?

I got a z170 mobo for free and I'm poor, what can I build to play breath of the wild?

>PSU aren't great
I was told that any seasonic would be fine, is that no longer the case?

it-tempel.ch/Pavilion-Power-Desktop-580-066ng7th-gen-IntelZ-Core-i7-7700-8M-Cache-36-GHz-8GB-DDR4-SDRAM-1000GB-HDD-128GB-SSD-Intel-HD-Graphics-630-AMD-Radeon-RX-580-8GB-GDDR5-DVD-Super-Multi-LAN-WLAN-Windows-10-Home-64-bit

Does this seem like a decent prebuilt for the price, or am I missing something?

>gtx 1060 6gb under msrp

Too bad I don't have 280€ to spend.

How trustworthy is logical increments?

Can I just pick my budget and go with whatever they have?

thread needs less faggots. cya!

Is gsync/freesync only needed if you drop below 60 fps?

Not trap user here. This not being the modular variant aside, this particular unit has a ball bearing fan that will be noisy under any load.
Seasonic is great, but this unit is below their own standards imo.

pcpartpicker.com/list/GhdpKB is this good I don't know much about pcs

pretty much

pcpartpicker.com/list/vytVFt

How would that do for 1440p gaming? It's pretty much all of my budget.
I don't plan on overclocking, unless I really need to, so I figure the stock cooler should be good enough.(Hopefully?)

This is going to be my first build, I didn't forget anything did I?

You can and you'll most likely be happy. You'll still spend more and won't get as good of parts than if you spent a few weeks in this thread and pay attention to sales, but it should serve you fine.
Although I would put the parts into pcpartpicker so you can see the best place to buy them instead of just following the links from Logical Increments.

Is it still too early for 240hz 1080p monitors?

Seriously, I know it can be intimidating or whatever when you're a newcomer, but just take the time to do your research. Trust me, the initial anxiety will quickly be replaced by growing interest once you start figuring this shit out.

Same thing happened to me with my first build, just read the manuals for each individual part more than once so you know what you're doing and it'll be a breeze.

wassup /pcbg/
i'm making a build for a friend since he doesn't know shit about parts, he will mostly be playing games at 1080p in it.
Since he just wants to upgrade his cpu, mobo and ram, i'm thinking: i7 8700 and 2x Fury Black 8gb 2400MHz. I'm wondering about the mobo since i haven't used intel in more than 10 years, i picked some H370 ATX mobos but i'm wondering which ones are the best.

The options are:
asrock Fatal1ty H370 Performance
asus TUF H370-PRO GAMING
ROG STRIX H370-F GAMING
gigabyte H370 AORUS GAMING 3
and msi H370 GAMING PRO CARBON.

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How is that under msrp lmao
They try, but make questionable choices in putting everything in it, also can't keep up with price changes
Not even needed really, but is very nice if you do a 570 or 580 and a 144Hz monitor
Would spend less on CPU (2600X instead) and more on GPU (1080 Ti)
Everything in thus build is sorta mediocre. Would do
pcpartpicker.com/list/K7ZgnH
And get a Kinguin key for Windows

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>B-die
How come Samsung is the only decent memory manufacturer in terms of latency, overclockability, voltage requirements and compatibility? Even GPUs with Samsung Vram are much more desirable than those equipped with Hynix as they seem to overclock with twice the offset often.

He doesn't want the unlocked 8700k and a Z370 board?

Will 16 gb of ddr3 ram at 1600 MHZ be worth keeping with my i7 4790k?

Or is there a newer mobo that supports ddr4 that will let me keep using my 4790k?

he doesn't care about overclocking. i could get a z370 with his budget but i was thinking it would be too much overkill for one gpu and 1080p gaming.

Not if you play only Counterstrike
In most game engines it's basically impossible to drive that even with the best video card and/or SLI so you will have to wait indefinitely
E-die is also pretty OK but still Samsung
Most consumers don't really care so SK Hynix or Micron trying to compete with Samsung in the crazy high-end is wasting R&D when they already print money no matter what they sell
Devil's Canyon can't be used on DDR4 platforms

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Why would you spend a metric fuckton of money on new RAM if you're not building a whole new system altogether? A faster CPU will serve you way better than upgrading to faster RAM.

It's rank 40 on the benchmarks still. I was hoping to not spend a huge amount considering the diminishing returns from that versus 1600 mhz to 3200 mhz in the ram.

RAM is suffering
>fell for the 16GB meme
>regularly been running out of memory
>prices are JUST
>would want a proper 3200 CL14 kit
>don't know how much longer I can wait for prices go down or just splurge now

Just end me

>Most consumers don't really care so SK Hynix or Micron trying to compete with Samsung in the crazy high-end is wasting R&D when they already print money no matter what they sell
That completely makes sense. I'm not going to pretend I understand what goes into forming the wafers on which the dies are cut from, but I'd suppose a lot more resources go into wafers from which the b-die is manufactured?

Having said that though, I'm always a little disappointed whenever I left the cooler on a GPU and discover its fitted with Hynix memory.

The 8700 supports 2666 natively though
And what's the point of buying a CPU on a dead platform for simple gaming? Ryzen 5/7 are likely just as good and can be upgraded if you want to future AM4 generations
Yeah, Samsung memory is generally more expensive to make/buy which is why AMD stopped using it on Vega 56 as soon as they could get Hynix and why B-die has a $60 premium over your average AFR/MFR

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So if all I do is play 1080p games and want to max them out, will an AMD 1700 be fine?

they invested sooner in processes that wouldn't immediately make sense economically and are reaping the rewards of that
hynix and micron have been doing planar for a longer time because that's what made the most money and transitioned later with a less refined process
exactly

guess you're right.
I'm changing the 8700 for the ryzen 7 2700x

>reading reviews for something'
>"I took away one star for not having RGB"

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Please recommend me a motherboard for my i5 8400 GTX 1060 build. I'm really confused.

what full tower case would offer the most space around 80 usd

I would suggest 2700 or 2700X for their better SoC and slightly higher general performance unless you get some killer deal or just barely have money (but even then a 2600X is gonna be better than 1700 if you aren't also streaming)
In the short term they will be basically the same but if you get a high refresh monitor and devs decide that multicore is worthless then getting Zen+ makes more sense
Who doesn't want RGB VRM heatsinks?
t. Gigabyte dev team
Locked CPU so no point in going past the absolute cheapest unless something else has
-More USB/SATA/PCIe fan headers etc
-Looks better (least important desu)
-Higher BIOS quality (also not entirely relevant)
-Debug LEDs/POST readout (is never a bad thing and will definitely be used multiple times over the course of a few years)
Dude all full towers are fucking huge

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>mfw casual gamers masquerading as tech reviewers

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I've got an 8 foot long desk, i'm fine on size.

best ATX X470 mobo?

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taichi has the best vrms while crosshair is the most convenient to use

I'm saying that it's pointless to worry
Pick one that looks nice/has good radiator options if you are interested in that
Assuming no budget? Crosshair
Best value? Gaming plus
Gaming 7/Taichi are close to crosshair though and cheaper

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the crosshair and the taichi are way over my budget. But i was taking a look at the Asus PRIME X470-PRO and it looks better than the gaming plus and it's it fits in my budget.

Regarding additional case fans, is it better to connect them to the mobo or to the PSU?

Better VRM but worse heatsink
Also no debug info which can be very useful on AM4 since memory can be an issue and BIOS can fuck around for no reason
Not worth paying more for unless you want to do some pretty serious 2700/X OC and want to troubleshoot everything on your own
Mobo allows for temp-based control if they are 4-pin or at least you are able to lower voltage so they run at a constant 70, 55, whatever percent you want if only 3-pin
PSU always runs them at full blast so not ideal

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My specs are:
8gb ram
r9 270x
amd fx-8350
(1366x768 resolution currently, but did well on 1920x1080)

How shit is this? I don't really play vidya that much lately and the only graphically-"intensive" game I played was The Witcher 3 and it was smooth on medium settings. But tried playing nu-doom and fps was shit even on low.
I just wish I'm able to run Cyberpunk

weird, shouldn't doom and most fps games run better than the witcher 3? it does on my pc and my laptop

I had pretty much the same specs as you but I had a r9 380 4gb. The one thing I regret was falling for the 8 core meme.

I am actually pretty scared to build my build too. Two things: Seating the CPU, and powering it on.
I worry about pic related and I also worry I'll miss something and ZAP goes my motherboard.

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The 8350 is the worst part of the build, although the rest isn't great
Consider getting a 2600 or 2600X
Witcher 3 is GPU intensive while FPS are usually CPU intensive
Depending on the bottleneck (CPU in his case, GPU in yours) you can get opposite results
Components aren't quite that weak, even spilling water or liquid metal on a motherboard won't necessarily damage it if you get lucky
PGA pins are usually not hard to fix either

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Is static discharge a meme? My plan is to simply keep contact with the case the whole time. It's usually how I do things

If you line it up correctly you shouldn't have issues

Not strictly build related, but;

What's your recommended external drive? Looking at maybe 2-4TB, fast and reliable ith no bullshit software on it. For Windows

I meant in terms of quality of the monitor. I'm going to be getting an 1180/1180 ti/highend navi.

I haven't and personally don't know anybody who has killed anything with static discharge
Of course you can always find a way to fuck up but at that point you have to be playing with your video card like a toy train
Well they are all gonna be TN (unless OLED catches on fast) so colors aren't gonna blow you away or anything but response times will be slick
I've heard they are smoother than 144Hz but it's underwhelming compared to 144 from 60

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No idea man, it's the only game that I remember running badly on my pc.

I haven't been on Jow Forums in ages and completely forgot about how cores work. I do remember people saying 8 cores was good for software and 2600 or 2600X
Alright, got it. As I have said, I haven't been on this board for a long time. Where can I read up on latest meme CPUs and GPUs?

nah there will be no overclocking. Is the X370 still good for the 2700X? i was looking at the prices for the crosshair x370 and the x370 taichi and they fit in my budget

Am I still looking at +700 for a 4K monitor plus a card that’ll put games at max on it?

Useful resources:
Youtube (Channels like Gamers Nexus, Bitwit, even Linus Tech Tips have good review vids)
Wikichip (for raw data)
Userbenchmark/cinebench (very dirty reference points for processors but can be useful if you are clueless)
It's best to get X470 for out-of-box Zen+ support and you also get the basic StoreMI thing for free if you want it
If you don't OC or do only precision boost overdrive (which can be easier and better than all-core OC at least for the X processors) then an X470 Gaming Plus is just fine
No card is going to run every game at max on 2160p
A 1080 Ti can do well but has an MSRP of $700 so you will pay at least that much

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>so you will pay at least that much
Damn I asked about this 2 years ago, I’m surprised it hasn’t dropped as much as I thought it would.

It's not worth getting a 2700x if I plan to replace it once zen 2 releases, right? Or would I be more likely to lose less money reselling it than compared to a 2600x?

Well 1080 Ti was not out 2 years ago for one thing
And mining fucked the market ever since it did come out so there wasn't room for price to fall
Zen 2 is going to be an improvement over Zen+, but it is not going to change the game like Zen did over Bulldozer derivatives
The processor that will keep its value the most would likely be the 2600, or maybe the 2600X depending on how much people like precision boost in the future

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What happened to zen 2 5ghz?

just in case i don't find the x470 msi gaming plus, is the x470 gaming pro good too?

NZXT340 Elite with ~30-40 for better components or Meshify C

Making a frequency and IPC leap is a very hard task (Intel usually fails at it and AMD has already done it with Zen+ so it's harder to do next time). Depending on when it comes out, they could potentially do 5GHz on one or two cores with Precision Boost, maybe possible on more if it's a later 2019 release (and if they also cram more cores into Ryzen 7 chips it will almost definitely be reserved for Zen 2+ or Zen 3).
I think you underestimate the difference between Broadwell and Coffee Lake which is like 700MHz average, and around 1GHz if you compare a brick from the former to a perfect bin from the latter
I've heard they are very similar
Depends on how much more you like the Meshify
If you don't care all that much, then the cheaper one would be the obvious choice

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Stop believing every single rumor/hype that you read about. Zen 2 is going to be on the Global Foundries 7nm process that they claim to be optimized for up to/around 5Ghz, but there has never been any definite information about the clocks that the process can actually reach and how much is Zen 2 really going to be able to reach.

I like the airflow improvemenys, but damn it's expensive.
Are the thermals of 340 elite that bad?

Should I go with an EVGA or a SeaSonic PSU? They're the exact same price.

I prefer EVGA

What are these ultra-lightweight semi-portable desktop workstations called again and what's a ""good"" (read: good enough for writing shit, not even internet capabilities needed since the person who would use it doesn't have a connection) model for 50-100 bucks

S340 Elite certainly is not an amazing case but not like it's the worst either
Would I run a Vega 64 and 8700K in it? Not if I had other options
On the other hand it looks nice enough and should do well enough with CPU tower coolers and most video cards
BRANDING MEANS NOTHING!!!
EVGA doesn't make the important components, and even sometimes buys the parts from Seasonic. Please state the specific models that you want to know about.

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I'm looking at this newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438095&cm_re=EVGA_SuperNOVA-_-17-438-095-_-Product

vs

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151203&ignorebbr=1

What, a NUC? Or do you mean SFF in general like the Zotac nano lineup and mITX boards?
Thanks for making this easy. Firstly, I prefer the G3 lineup over Seasonic's FOCUS Plus Gold series (at least for the same price).
Hope that clears it all up, just remember that both (all, really) companies can sell low-end/disappointing parts

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Alright I'm ready to pull the trigger on this.

pcpartpicker.com/list/hKCspG

It's with a GTX 1060 6gb that I already own. Any glaring issues?

Why not just use the stock cooler?

For literally just doing office work one of those HDMI compute sticks would be enough. The class just above that is called NUC but those are way more expensive.

If it can be a bit bigger just any old university system from when they're clearing out old stock or a used PC off ebay would be more than enough.

I live in Florida and it gets really hot

A Ryzen 6-core would have better multithreaded ability and you could upgrade if you wanted to Zen 2, 2+, and whatever else comes out before 2021
Buying an aftermarket cooler won't help you that much on a locked chip
16GB of memory would be nice too

No cooler, more RAM ($633)
pcpartpicker.com/list/V4FFZR
Alternative Ryzen build with more, faster RAM ($620)
pcpartpicker.com/list/LHvzP3
Won't make a difference unless the room you're in is like 90°F but in that case I think it's a house problem

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Uhh.
Why is it so hard to look this up and understand it? It's a fundamental product of mismatched frequencies, with just the extra detail of how

You can be at/near the refresh rate or half it and it won't tear. Faster refresh rate also gives less ranges that'll tear.
So if you get a non-sync monitor because your graphics card isn't AMD, say 144hz, if you lock poorly performing games to 72hz you'll be fine. If a game is locked to 60, like a shit console port, that'll still very rarely tear if you have a 1ms response time.
More specifically, it'll about one frame every 5 seconds or some shit if I'm doing the math right. idk I think my math is wrong because that sounds a bit low. Oh, math is wrong because I'm assuming color-to-color of 1ms when that's grey-to-grey. Color-to-color is probably more like 3-4ms so you're looking at more like a tear every two other second.

I would only get an IPS that is adaptive sync because the lower refresh rate gives more ranges that it'll tear. So stick to 1ms response monitors for 144hz non-sync monitors. Freesync IPS(AHVA more likely) is the ideal, though.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/vytVFt
Just why when you can get a 75hz Freesync 1440p IPs for that price? $250 for a fucking 60hz TN.

It may be TSMC's 7nm process and more like "high 4GHz" if so.

Yes.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/hKCspG
Single channel a glaring issue.
Why is PSU so expensive for a budget build?

Brainstorming with a friend of mine in an effort to build a PC that'll double for 4K gaming and a bit of productivity rendering video and and website building (I know absolutely nothing about productivity, except that Adobe Premiere that he uses apparently favours Intel at the moment?).
Aesthetics are a big priority as is reasonably balanced performance. He's pretty sold on the Phanteks Shift which I know isn't the best thermal performer, but I'm sure with careful componentry selection could work well. Looking for feedback on my thought process as to what would work best in the Shift Evolv.
-It's limited to a 120mm AIO so I've chosen one with thickest radiator possible.
-in light of the limited cooler size, he's suggested he'd be happy to stick with the lower tdp locked 8700 i7 for thermal reasons.
-in light of the locked processor, is it worth scrimping the minimal saving and going for the H370 strix ITX over the Z370 version? My thinking is the Z370 would have better upgradability and potential resale, and possibly better VRM (if that's relevant at stock turbo speeds)?
-am I being short sighted limiting selection to Asus motherboards? Does Gigabyte, Asrock or MSI offer a better alternative (keep in mind aesthetics are important)
-I want to suggest a 2700 Ryzen, but can't find much info on comparative thermals compared to the 8700 (soldered IHS is a huge bonus, and IMO should be standard). I'd go with the X470 Strix ITX with this route.
-storage options is where I'm lost. I'm thinking a single M.2 to start with to keep the build clean and simple, but whether to go with a Sata SSD or NVMe. Apparently the case supports a single 2.5" drive, but not needing to run cables to the storage would be a bonus.
-I've suggested a blower style card as I feel it'd be better for this style case. From what I've seen the Asus Turbo 1080ti has similar 10 VRM phases to the Strix versions (could be wrong).
pcpartpicker.com/list/N3CBq4

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Also forgot;
-I've selected (what I presume is a b-die) 3200C14 2x8gb ram kit. Is this a waste of money compared to a cheaper 3000C15/3200C16 kit? And would he be better off putting his money toward a 2x16gb memory kit?
We're also in Ausfailure if that matters, but prices seem to be pretty consistently USD-AUD conversion plus 5-10% across most components.

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Follow-up questions regarding this: other than noise, what kinds of disadvantages are there to running case fans at 100% all the time? Is there a significant difference in lifespan of the fans?

How trivial is it to remove the molex adapter? Based on a quick internet search, several people seem to have been able to, but without going in much detail.

Finally, do typical fan control settings/programs (such as Q-fan for Asus) allow to use certain presets for 3-pin connectors without having to manually fiddle with the voltage?

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>Why is PSU so expensive for a budget build?
If you've looked at prices today there aren't any good discounts on modular units so the cheapest one is only $10 less
Don't even bother with the unlocked chip and Z370
Why are you spending so much on memory?
As for storage, ask him if he benefits from NVMe.
That kit is B-die, but tacking RGB onto that adds another $30 (in total $90 more than a CL16 kit). Also, you do know that there is an Australian pcpartpicker right?
Aside from noise the only downside is dust collection lol
Removing molex adapters is real easy
Best bet for fan control is to go into BIOS and set speed. My Taichi board has a switch for DC/PWM fan control and I can set the speed there (setting anything in Windows is irritating since motherboard companies have no idea how to design software).

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>Don't even bother with the unlocked chip and Z370
Noted. Changed to the H370. On that note, what are your thoughts in going to an 2700/X470 alternative instead?
>Why are you spending so much on memory?
Again, I have no idea with productivity, so I wouldn't know whether better latency is an advantage or not. The fact an ITX is limited to 2 dimm slots makes me think he might be better off just going for outright capacity with a 2x16gb kit... if Adobe and various other programs advantage more memory.
>As for storage, ask him if he benefits from NVMe.
Will do. I'm personally thinking the advantage between NVMe and a SATA M.2 drive would be negligible, and spending the difference on a larger capacity sata M.2 would be a better bet, although he reckons 500gb would be enough.
>That kit is B-die, but tacking RGB onto that adds another $30 (in total $90 more than a CL16 kit).
My reasoning for picking the RGB Trident Z kit is as far as I'm aware, the Trident-Zs are the only kits that are compatible with Asus Aura Sync.
>Also, you do know that there is an Australian pcpartpicker right?
Yep, just couldn't figure out how to change the region on the mobile web page. I just jumped on my PC and changed it. au.pcpartpicker.com/list/N3CBq4

Thanks for the feedback based 2D trap poster.

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>On that note, what are your thoughts in going to an 2700/X470 alternative instead?
Your friend is correct; Adobe is more optimized for Coffee Lake. The 8700K even ironically beats all of Skylake-X in some workloads (because of its iGPU acceleration)
Not to say that Zen would be bad, but for Premiere it falls behind.
Aura Sync really is not what you should be thinking about desu

Also, you posted the same link as last time. I was thinking something like:
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/7sKFZR
Memory is only 2400 (since 2666 2x16GB is not at a good price) but should be mostly ok

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Whoops wrong video card sorry
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/h38h7W

new gpus when

I'm looking to install a new ssd and make it my primary drive. I recently bought a new computer and it's primary drive was an ssd but it has too low of a memory. How to i physically install the ssd and make it the primary drive?