Last Thread >News Kailh is now making switches for Logitech. In an interesting and confusing move, logitech offers cherry MX blue clones called GX switches in some of their keyboards now. These switches are made by kailh for Logitechs specifications, and while they are more durable it really doesn't make a lot of sense.
Will hako clear/true springs ever be available seperately? Would be nice to stick them in royals or navies without having to spend $0.5 each for them.
Cooper Johnson
What's the consensus on Unicomp keyboards? I was looking into getting an Ultra Classic because I did the aesthetic and buckling springs seem to be pretty nice
how many people here actually steno? I've been using it for about two years now, though I don't put that much effort into it
Adrian Price
they're okay. not as nice as the originals, but its better then nothing
Julian Morales
Sprit is already making box springs apparently, in the usual huge range of weights
Isaac Nguyen
Speaking of springs, has anyone modded matias quiet switches? I can't fucking decide if I want them lighter or heavier. I know, it's a weird problem, but I feel like either way could work - but visualising weight is difficult, so I can't really make an "informed" decision. I could buy two sets of springs, but opening every single switch to replace the spring then assembling them back sounds tedious enough that I really don't want to do it twice.
Also, on a similar note, how do I lube switches to make them less scratchy? Like, what lube should I get, and what parts do I put it on? Figure I might as well if I'm going to be opening them up anyway
Grayson Green
Any recommendations for a good silent mechanical keyboard?
Asher Ortiz
Anything with matias quiet clicks, or with one of the flavors of mx silent switch.
Henry Edwards
>sprit I'd rather shell out extra for the whole switch than give him money to be honest familia.
Michael Bailey
hhkb type s is pretty good just get any topre or cherry mx clears though they're quiet enough
Alexander Price
Why is the only keyboard I want $220+ (~$260 with the keycaps I want)
keyboards shouldn't be this expensive, damn Japanese.
Dylan Diaz
You do you, I just want springs. They're sold by like mechanicalkeyboard.com and keyboardcompany.co so it's not like it's another group buy scam.
Christian Thompson
they're equivalent to the late model Ms which are arguably the worst ones, but they're still model Ms. plus they're new which is a boon for quality
Adrian Price
Well Im using a piece of shit non mech keyboard right now. Trying to find a keyboard that I like is too over whelming and I cant make decisions and the Unicomp seems nice. Wish they had back lightning
Jaxon Rodriguez
What keyboard should I get if I don't really give a shit about typing but want to have a smug sense of superiority?
Jose Clark
>Budget 250 >Location (continent at least) Europe >Preferred switch type Linear switchs(ex. cherry-mx reds) ,non-clicky,non-tactile >Layout ISO 105 >Form factor full size or 80%(TKL keyboards) ,must have floating keys/exposed switchs, prefer low profile(ex. tesoro gram spectrum) >Backlight RGB >Previous/current keyboards Ducky Zero Dk2087s
Like 80% of the keyboards posted in these threads have back lightning
Ryder Thompson
How bad is the flex on the P70s? There's this guy on reddit selling his converted SKCP board using a cherry case and additional supports to reduce flex for $350+shipping (and may or may not be willing to attempt to dodge taxes, I haven't contacted him yet), and there's a guy on ebay who's selling a full original P70 for $200+shipping+taxes, but because it's ebay you can't dodge taxes and because it's the full PC shipping is a giant clusterfuck so it works out to like $320-350.
Noah Ross
Except none of the keyboard pics currently in the thread have backlighting. I personally have 11 mechanical keyboards and 3 laptop keyboards, of which one has backlighting. Instead of relying on backlighting, just learn to type.
Building a K-Dype with Zilent 62g and DSA Coffee House from PMK. Shit will be RIGHTEOUS
Asher Diaz
Yeah and this is a pretty dead mech thread, there are normally way more pictures. Go into the last one and let me know how many have backlight keyboards
Caleb Butler
I have a ducky, would reccomend. solid build quality, at a reasonable price point all things considered
Get a K-Type with Halo/Hako Trues. Like heaven. Regrettably I the firmware and configurator are more immature than I was hoping for by now , but it's still the most comfy combo I've ever owned.
Parker Gutierrez
The firmware is fine if you do it manually. Never been a fan of the configurator.
Bentley Cox
Sure, sure, but I'm not about to do that shit every day now. Idk.
Gabriel Brown
>but I'm not about to do that shit every day now You just configure it to your liking once and then you don't have to touch it again.
Joshua Perez
I'm looking for a low-profile 84 keys mechanical keyboard. Any suggestions?
If I'm interested in a vintage keyboard or Alps board reviews, I go to his channel. Just does good reviews with a mixture of some objective/subjective insights. Vastly superior to the droves of YouTubers you buy 4K cameras so they can LARP as big tech channels while they mindlessly read spec sheets over fancy B-roll of RGB keyboards.
Jacob Price
I'd like to use a 40% but for applications such as photo/video editors, games and the like I fear that it will be a pain in the ass and not just not work sometimes especially since numbers have to be accessed with a layer. Any 40%ers have any insights into this? I'm interested in compact things.
Matthew Sullivan
Just get a 60% (or 65%) m8.
Noah White
Has anyone experience with speed-switches? Are they gaming memes and prone to accidental actuation or are they good for typing, too?
Are there any 75% or larger kits that support split spacebar? I really wanna play with one but my work-flow sorta requires me to have my F keys
Jaxon Peterson
I made the mistake of building a kit with them, the golds to be specific and holy shit it was accidential input city. Ended up buying a new pcb and putting red box switches in it, much happier with that.
Jack Brooks
>buying a new pcb >when you could've bought $5 of desoldering braid instead
>Being so poor you can't afford a $40 pcb My time is worth more than the hour+ it would have taken me to cleanly desolder the switches and LEDs, not to mention the possibility of ruining a trace and being left without a working keyboard.
Juan Parker
Desoldering braid is shit. Optimally you'd use a real desoldering iron with a pump, but otherwise a solder sucker is fine if you don't want to drop the dosh for that.
Nathan Kelly
I see, thank you for confirmation I'll probably go for box red too and mix them with box navy for some keys
Matthew Brooks
Man that's a lot of insecurity you must have to immediately try and make the conversation about how much money you have.
Blake Lopez
Where the fuck is the weapons guy?
Aaron Gutierrez
It's definitely not a good idea for games, unless they're non-real-time ones where you can take your time doing anything. Games where you have to react in real time will need their controls centered around one hand since you won't have the time to move it around the entire keyboard, so at least a number row is almost mandatory.
For editing, the worst part is that you sometimes have to press an extra key in your keyboard shortcuts. That assumes your layers and keybindings are set up in compatible ways, but since usually both can be changed that shouldn't be much of a problem. I know for example Blender should be perfectly usable on a 40%.
If in doubt though, get a 50% (e.g. Preonic).
Christian Foster
I just built a gaming pad with them and here's the thing: they actuate after 1.1mm. But due to Hooke's law, the first 1.1mm are stupid easy to actuate. So it's a fucking pleasure to game on, since I barely need to use any force and they respond instantaneously. When building it I thought it'd be a meme, but it actually makes a difference.
For typing? I've never had problems with pressing the wrong keys, but if you think that's something you might do, then yeah - the fact that they'll actuate if you breathe on them probably makes them a bad idea.
Brayden Gomez
about the tada68 is the 60$ difference in price worth it for an aluminum case (copypaste from the last thread because i only got one answer from someone that doesn't own the aluminum case sorry sorry sorry :3)
Dominic Sullivan
Cherry clears are ok
Dylan Martin
>Budget $AU70-80 >Location (continent at least) Australia >Preferred switch type Looking for keycaps >Layout ANSI >Previous/current keyboards Steelseries Apex M500, backlight off
Just looking for some doubleshot/dye-sub PBT keycaps that look nice and clean, currently have a non-doubleshot set from Aliexpress in Dolch colours, but everyone knows what happens to non-doubleshot/dye-sub keys...
Is it just worth ordering off mk.com and waiting for US shipping? Or is there a hidden goldmine on Aliexpress?
Connor Hall
Depends if you want it. The plastic case is very solid, if you're on a budget there's absolutely nothing wrong with just using that. If you're going to be using it as an end-game board, though, maybe you'd prefer to have the aluminium.
One of the appeals of the tada is that it's under $100 yet completely usable as a "daily driver" out of the box. Getting the aluminium case kind of defeats that, but if you have the money then why not.
Ethan Kelly
>everyone knows what happens to non-doubleshot/dye-sub keys .... no I don't know what happens? Dye subbed PBT keycaps are like the second best quality of literally any keycap in the world. I am using dye subbed pbt alps keycaps from the 80s and they are still great.
What I mean is, I have non-doubleshot non-dyesubbed PBT keys.
The legends don't feel so good...
Bentley Jackson
It depends if you like the tada. Buy it first then if you really like it to the point that you want to use it as a daily driver than get the aluminum. Just a word or advice though, aluminum pretty much kills portability... although it is pretty rare that you carry around a mech keyboard around everywhere. If you are that faggot that types on a mech keyboard in the school library then I hope you burn in hell.
Robert Reed
ah alright. Ok well I am assuming it is a black case and blanks are out of the question.
If you don't care that about OEM profile keycaps you can get some taihao doubleshot pbts.
Joshua Russell
I type on my matias quiet clicks in public, is that bad
Jaxon White
Hot damn I'm really liking the first set. And I didn't realise you could still find good Carbon sets on Aliexpress, I guess I didn't look hard enough. Will definitely look into.
Julian Russell
Yes. Only for the reason you use scratchy alps though, not sound.
Hudson Hughes
Is it true that the fewer keys you have, the more hardcore hacker you become?
Landon Brooks
yes
Thomas Walker
no
Easton Brooks
>Budget 150ish >Location (continent at least) Europe >Preferred switch type Cherry Mx-reds silent >Layout Don't really care either are fine >Form factor 80% >Backlight Don't care >Previous/current keyboards Really awful membrane shit one
Nathaniel Lopez
Memes in my open.
Luke Brooks
what's your wpm record i'm really bad currently can't get over 60 lel
Blake James
You're supposed to use the sucker in conjunction with the braid you retard
Josiah Wilson
everybody will lie about this because usually they measure their peak wpm or their burst wpm and not a really good standardized wpm
on top of that guys just like to lie about things like this to be more impressive, just like penis length
How do you do that? Not him, but I have some shitty braid, a flux pen, and a sucker, and I'm planning to desolder a keyboard soon. I've desoldered some individual switches and leds before, but it was a huge pain and I came close to ruining the pads a couple of times, so whatever I'm doing clearly doesn't scale. What's the proper way to do it?
Nicholas Parker
Suck up the initial blob with the sucker and use the braid to get whatevers left. Using the braid exclusively is a massive waste
Asher Nelson
>no function keys How can into hacking if you can't even into CMOS?
Blake Wilson
I occasionally get pain in my finger tips when using mx reds
Levi Nguyen
Budget - 100 USD
Location - Canada
Switch Type - Probably brown, haven't used a mech keyboard nice the 90s
Layout - Ansi
Form Factor - 60-75%, needs to be compact, I plan only use it when I'm out with my notebook
Blacklight - No lights
Current Keyboard - Logitech G19, I really like the feel of the keys so I hope to get something with a similar feel
Does the braid work well with solder sitting inside the hole? I remember trying once and it was pretty bad but I didn't really have any idea what I was doing so I hadn't use the pump first and I hadn't added flux (I think my braid either has no flux at all or barely had any), so maybe that was just me.
Matthew Reed
Like said. 40% sounds awful if you want to play games on. Number row is a must I'm but I don't actually have experience with it yet. I have a planck coming soon so if I end up liking the ortholinear layout I might go preonic for my gaming needs.
Carson Morgan
I got 2 of the black modern classics. They are pretty good desu. Again not as good as the older ones but still better than any other switch I own. I still kinda want to get a model F desu.
Grayson Anderson
Just got this guy for 50$. Kailh BOX switches and feels pretty good. Its mostly for on the go something I can just keep in my backpack and use when needed.
geekhack org/index.php?topic=14112.0 Seems like a fine solution from what I have found so far
Nathaniel Rodriguez
yeah I do. The fucking back things that are in the pic shrunk cuz all the heat. I dunno if it was because of shipping or my all black mailbox out in the sun. Its a bit weird to learn but I had to make a layout sheet to learn it. I can give you the jist of it if you want.
A normal numpad sounds shit because the Enter is placed wrong. I guess you could use it vertically, but then you can't use the pinky for anything, and instead have to take fingers off WASD to do almost anything. Sounds iffy to me.
The green one I posted I finished a couple of days ago, and so far I love it. The main motivation was to go all-out on meme switches without concerning myself with typing experience, so I've got silvers on WASD (centralized at the top of the 5*4 cluster - the key with the bump is S) and pinks on everything else except for jades on the "macro column" (leftmost). Also, being small means I can reposition it as much as I want, plus I get an absolute fuckton of mouse space (I have a desk mat so I can use all of it).
It works great, the only thing so far is that I'm having to retrain my pinky for Shift/crouch on the 1u key: turns out I was used to sticking my pinky out really far for some fucking reason. That shouldn't take long to get used to, though. The only other thing that could make it better would be a 5th row - while I was shitposting, the anons I replied to were right in that a number row is pretty helpful. It's not a deal breaker for FPS games though, and I tend to use a mouse with more buttons for other games where weight and sensor aren't as crucial, so I don't actually mind too much. I'm not aware of anyone selling 6*5 pads so if I ever wanted to expand I'd have to make my own case and PCB, whereas this has the huge advantage of being a $30 kit from aliexpress.
Blake Powell
Thanks for the reply user, I think I'll check it out
Sebastian Kelly
I would actually like this if it was 5 rows.
Christian Jones
If you find a case and pcb for that let me know. I can't be bothered enough to print/cut/wire my own, this works well enough for most purposes.
Worth mentioning I also have an actual numpad lying around I use for hotkeys where needed (e.g. binds for changing class in TF2).
Benjamin Watson
I just got my gk64 with box blacks, holy shit there so much better than cherry
Gonna try jades in the near future since my kb is hot swappable
Henry Bennett
my CMOS is accessible by pressing DEL key
Landon Campbell
Looks comfy but expensive. I have box whites so I dunno if they are worse or better than blacks.
Michael Garcia
So are we just ignoring the gh being sold to some chaiwanese vendor/ad Rev company shit show?
