Rec me a soldering station Jow Forums

Rec me a soldering station Jow Forums

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This is for /diy/

Also depends on your budget. From the chinky ones the combined iron+hotair stations are good bang per buck.

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Yihua 995D or some other such station off Aliexpress. There are quite many both cheaper and more expensive.

If you don't need hot air gun, maybe even just get a simple temperature controlled iron - CXG 936d or such.

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Anything Yihua off aliexpress, really. They have nice bundles, I'd get one with a brass wool cleaner definitely.

Actually, let me revise this to the CXG E60W or E90W or whatever.

It's not a huge difference from what I can tell, but that on-off button seems useful if you don't have a power rail with a switch on your desk. Installing on-cable switches is kinda gay unplugging it when you take a coffee break isn't as convenient either.

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kys chinks

Screw you Dave, nobody's wasting $300 to make 5 joints a month.

>not using a 10 bucks 30 watt one

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>overpaying for the same fucking thing

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Glad to see someone using a gif I made.

Get a hakko.
Not the knock offs, the originaru.
It's the AMD of the soldering stations.

Holy crap, you guys are retards! Weller is THE ONLY brand, ask the guy at your hardware store. I've had mine for over 20 years. Try to get the one with the adjustible temperature.

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KYS burger reseller. These are good soldering irons and nobody needs your ability to replace logos and brand names at a 4x markup.

>chinkpilled idiot

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10 bucks 30 watt can work, but they usually have shitty temperature stability and weird tips that you can't buy anywhere.

Paying another 5-10 bucks to get a chink iron with Hakko-M type tips that can be had in all sorts of shapes for cheap and more temperature stability isn't a huge luxury.

That's the point, they are cheap as fuck.

This. $30 gets you the best there is.

>$30
richfags richfagging. try $10

i have it for almost 10 years already, every time i want to upgrade i come to conclusion that i don't use it enough to justify an upgrade

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and it solders everything. i soldered both big things like car wires and small things like microusb ports with this thing, no problems whatsoever. i even soldered gpu once for Jow Forums amusement (and because stockphoto videos are retarded)

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The solder almost kinda melts for a moment.

Maymay video aside, this is an iron with a terrible warmup time and terrible temperature stability, isn't it? I get the situation 10y ago, but now you don't really have to do this to yourself even with a cheap iron.

>terrible warmup time and terrible temperature stability, isn't it?
No?

>I get the situation 10y ago, but now you don't really have to do this to yourself even with a cheap iron.
That's the thing, even cheap irons these days are as good as slightly more expensive ones, they use the same parts, they just don't have a fancy brand logo. All comes from the same chink factories these days.

>can't even fucking tin it

Atten ST-60 ; Hakko

Don't buy Chinese stuff, it's cheap but quality is worse, there's always something inferior about them

What the fuck is this shit

He's using the iron completely wrong

"temperature regulation" in this one is based on same electronics as ordinary light dimmer, so i guess it might be far from more professional solutions. It works though, stuff holds forever when i solder it properly. Warmup times are pretty bad, but it's something you can get used to - you just turn it on and wait couple minutes while doing something else.

Ts100

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oh fuck so cute

is it functional? i want it now

>is it functional?
Yes. youtube.com/watch?v=71R8OksmpWw

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I just got me one of these chink stations.

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Does it also come with the torch?

Hakko 888D. It's the de facto industry standard for a reason, and 100 bucks is nothing for a good piece of tech that'll serve you for years.

I watched a review on it the other day. The verdict is that it works well enough, but for the money you're better off with a traditional soldering station unless for some reason you really need a tiny USB-powered iron. It uses non-standard tips that are a pain to deal with and the fact that it's USB is an issue, both because moving it around puts strain on the infamously weak micro-USB connector and because USB cables tend to be pretty shit quality and aren't as soft and flexible as a good soldering iron cable.

>the originaru
Could you elaborate on this? I was thinking on buying a Hakko iron but I've read comments about this brand being a meme.

These Antex are having good reviews in bong amazon. Are they any good? Are those tips compatible with other well known brands?
>inb4 no regulator

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>Weller is the only brand
>pic is of the cheap crappy red Wellers that have nothing to do with the real professional ones

For the ts100 if you have 24v power for the ts100 it will be faster than the weller or hakko

>tfw used a shit 3$ chink soldering iron (only 25W) for years
>iron could barely melt the solder, wouldn't do shit if i was working with a larger component
>thought my soldering skills were shit, because projects didn't end up too good, so never spent the money to buy a better iron
>chink iron breaks
>buy a decent one for like 50$ because not in poverty now
>mfw now i can even solder SMD
>mfw my skills are actually pretty great, it was just the soldering iron

Do yourself a favor OP, and buy a decent one, nobody should have to go through the horror of using a cheap iron

Can I take it too?

Yes friend, you are welcome!

I bought a different branded version of this.
Works fine

Oh shit, wait, I remembered wrong. It's not USB, it takes basically a laptop charger. That's even worse than USB, since at least with that you could go get a high-quality cable, while with this your only real option is to buy a random chinkshit charger.

It's not a meme.
They are chink based products but they have great build quality and most important warm up like nothing else.
There are many knock offs out there, some of them even named hakko, and those are shit.
Go to the hakko site and check their official distributors, only buy from them.
I have to import one from italy.
Louis rossman shills it too, his channel has a review.
I could go for a weller or something similar, but those are awefully overpriced for what they offer. It's a stagnated market, most designs are 10 or 15 years old... Yet a simple weller station is multiple hundreds of dollars.
Same shit happens with oscilloscopes, agilent and tektronix are the famous ones, but rigol, also chinks, have amazing quality and are durable...also you can hack them... But you must also beware of knock offs that are even branded under the same name.
Chinks chinks themselves

here you go:
youtube.com/watch?v=ao39bPEyok4

pleb
amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N5XUF61/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YH5SL0VRZ43E

>It's the AMD of the soldering stations
Overpriced and overhyped on Jow Forums that will let me down unless I buy their highest end shit that would cost way more than other cheap shit that just does the job?

I made my own cables for the ts100 (I need a longer male barrel)

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>Overpriced and overhyped on Jow Forums that will let me down unless I buy their highest end shit that would cost way more than other cheap shit that just does the job?
that doesn't even make sense.

Metcal, Hakko if you do a lot of SOICs, DIPPs and SIPPs, I had a Pace rework station I was quite fond of for my first solder rig.

The only bad thing about the Hakko stations is the larger D4 tips tend to get holes in them when using them for constant high-volume production applications. If you aren't burning them for 8 or 10 hours every day you'll be fine. They have a lot of really cool specialty tips for all sorts of applications.

t. worked in the avionics industry and electronics assembly for 10 years, IPC rework, repair, SMT and BGA, 610 and milspec certified.

Ask me anything I'll try to help out.

I didn't realize how much Hakko was shilled here until I actually read this thread so I'll elaborate a bit on them

I worked for Rockwell Collins for 5 years and before that I sub-contracted for them. If you have flown on a 747 or an A380 in the last 5 or 6 years its avionics were hand-assembled using Hakko soldering stations. Even our most experienced rework technicians who were there during the Space Shuttle days swore by them.

I loved mine, and I had all the special tips for it, used to hoard them in my tool box. I had two stations, I had a rework station with precision tips for stuff that came from other lines that had to be fixed when our line was slow or waiting on material, and for general production I used a Hakko, can't remember the model number its been a while. They are fantastic and are pretty much the Swiss Army Knife of soldering stations you can do everything on them. I had the other station for custom tips our engineering department made for some of the assemblies we worked on. Aside from Rockwell I bounced around a few other electronics assembly shops over the years and EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM use those irons in general production.

If I had to go out right now and drop some coin on a solder station it would be a Hakko, no doubt. Get one, you will not be disappointed.

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Not a bad way of doing it. I was figuring the thing to do would be to just run it off of a bench power supply, since that's something you're likely to have or at least want if you're the target market for a little precision iron like the TS100 anyway.

Hakko or weller

>being this poor

I have one, it works, its cheap, its small, and with a power bank its portable. Plug it into a power adapter not a computer.

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> $9.9
This is supposed to be ~$4-5. Maybe $3. Don't get chink'd / reseller'd!

> Plug it into a power adapter not a computer.
The dangerous thing to do is plug it into a random power adapter.

Much better to plug it into a power bank or such to get a stable DC power source that additionally won't make an attempt to electrocute you with 120V/240V if anything goes wrong.

little biribiri from 240v socket is not as bad as broken usb controller (or even entire mobo or psu)

Try not to point the hot end at your mainboard or port haphazardly and nothing of the sort will happen - although maybe even then you'll have unwanted current in the tip.

One reference: youtube.com/watch?v=o-8D5t6TJYU - and he uses a good power adapter, worse adapters are everywhere.

Use it with a typical power bank. Although using it on a computer is better than using it with a power adapter.

I unironically have A weller

NUT

why do people still do the wet sponge meme, it barely cleans it and makes it rust. use a brass pad instead, works really well.

i used to modchip ps2s and gamecubes with one of those 18w antexes and a fisher-price toy microscope. the antex was adequate, but a yeehaw hakko clone is twice as good at half the price.

weller has a nice design, but even used stations are fuck expensive.
They missed on the cartridge meme and now they are lacking.
technology wise they are 20 years behind
>its just a hot rod bro

>hmm i have some 60/40 solder, what temperature setting should i use for it
>maybe i'll try setting it to 4

the downside of these is the fucking cord and the size
short stiff cords are the last thing you want

I posted that one, but I fail to parse your comment.

Just about every crappy iron still comes with a sponge. I guess it's just cheap.

But I definitely agree that metal wool is better. Spare the ~$2-3 to get a stand/box with it.

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>not using 63/37

What temperature setting should I use for that?

depends on what you solder
°C control on a simple solder iron is a meme. a dial is more than sufficient

>is it functional?
No.
youtube.com/watch?v=fNV3aKKsGYw
Some toys break very easily.

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Heck yeah. I bought one maybe a half year ago. Throw the open source firmware on it, get some decent solder, and you're in for the comfiest soldering you can do for less than $200.

Nah, It accepts standard Hakko t12/t15 tips. They're longer than the OEM ones though.

youtube.com/watch?v=ftwAPxl3MXA

I had this exact iron. It was stolen from me, but it was really nice to use. I picked up an iron with two heat setting from Radioshack to replace it and it's total shit. Very disappointed.

My friend has a Pace iron and it worked very well too.

I have this, great iron.

Pic related is one of the best

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Avoid plug-in mains irons. These things suck. They take forever to heat up. Tip selection is ass. And they have no thermal regulation. Soldering things with a large thermal mass is time consuming and difficult with those mains irons.

If you're looking to do hobbyist levels of soldering, then pretty much anything that's at least a dedicated station is the way to go. A dedicated station will at least feature a half-assed temperature regulation system, so the station puts out more power when the tip is in contact with a large thermal mass. This ensures the tip remains as close as possible to the set temperature --- something that plug-in mains irons lack.

If you're looking to repair, you want something better. For repair work I recommend any iron that's capable of using cartridge-based tips. Cartridge tips are fundamentally different from the usual tips you might already be familiar with. Non-cartridge tips are placed on top of the heating element, and are locked in with a shroud that is held on to the iron by a threaded collar. Want to swap your tip? Gotta wait for it to cool down.

Cartridge tips on the other hand actually contain the heating element. This makes them a lot longer (and more expensive) than the other tips. But, what's greatest about these is swapping tips is easy. You don't have to wait for it to cool. You can just hot swap tips (literally) and plug in a different one in seconds.

Irons that use cartridge-based tips are typically pricey though. They're usually around $150-$250. However, the TS-100 is capable of using Hakko T12 tips, which are cartridge based. It's a little weird using them with the TS-100 because the tips are very long. But it can use them. The TS-100 also has a multitude of cartridge tips that are purpose-built to work comfortably with the TS-100, and it's like $50. If you get a TS-100 I recommend powering it with a 19v laptop charger.

Cont

Personally, I use a Hakko FM-202. It's discontinued, but you can usually find them between $100-$200 on eBay. This station supports a wide range of Hakko handpieces which is great for future proofing. If you are looking to work on very tiny things, I think the 202 is a great option if you aren't interested in dropping $500 on the FM-203. If you want a 202, just make sure you get one that comes with at least the standard handpiece and iron stand. And even though it's discontinued, Hakko still sells replacement components so you can fix it up if something ever goes out.

This is the goat

We use Hakko stations at work. They're fucking amazing.

>>$30
>richfags richfagging. try $10
>i have it for almost 10 years already, every time i want to upgrade i come to conclusion that i don't use it enough to justify an upgrade

I got the same but mine only last me for a couple of years.

hakko are the usual go to's for professional repairmen

Anyone can google y stopped working and get results.

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What model Hakko, and tips?

Do you believe in Metcal and Thermaltronics, or are they meme?

I bought a 5 dollar chink set off alibaba that works fine. No housefire yet.

Any option that isn't the ts100 (or the up-coming ts80) are a mistake. It's a seriously nice iron for a stupid price. Just gotta get your own adapter.

i have this and its been good.

question though. the tip is fucking wobbly. i cant tighten it to stop it from wobbling. anyone know whats going on?

wool is best no doubt. lasts longer than that shitty sponge and doesnt burn

And Weller.

Meanwhile the Chinese mass produce / repair / disassemble and recycle most of the worlds electronics and among those that aren't baked in industrial reflow ovens [which is still a lot of devices], usually with their domestic soldering stations.

What do you conclude from that? They seem to get the job done too.

>Uh the wire is to stiff
>Uhhh dam wire uhhh
>It's good but uhh this wire uhh it's hard to move uh
If only they was a way to fix that.

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The TS-100 has two connectors, a micro USB for data and a DC barrel jack for power. It isn't possible to solder using the micro USB.

Ummunder why take so long?

Who else here waiting for TS80 r3l3as3 day?amirite
Check new version. Has is USB-C ass end. Plus 3.5mm head end. Now say with me: "Hello Weller tips."
youtube.com/watch?v=83STpUXHilk

everything recommended here sucks dick
use the WX1011 like me
also

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