/diy/ here. I want to wire my a/v rack and office for gigabit ethernet. I'm planning on running wires through my wall and noticed that there is cat5/5e/6/7. What should I be putting in? Runs range from 50-200ft.
Google seems to point me toward either 5e or 6, but, the answers vary.
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The latest available for future proving
6a
Thanks. So seems like 6a is what I can buy:
I made the mistake of going Cat5 when I could've gone 6 cause I thought I would never get a gigabit router and 100mbps is good enough for me.
And then gigabit routers dropped to less than $100 and my new PC came with gigabit LAN.
you can use the cat5 to pull through cat6 when you finally hate it enough to upgrade
cat6a is perfect for 10 Gigabit
What's the difference between these two?
one is UTP the other FTP
Unless it was wired before the walls were set and stapled to the struts.
it actually doesnt fucking matter which one you pick (atleast for cat5 and above). Since you wont run endless wires alongside eachother n shit (ya, i know cat5 is not certified for poe, but it fucking works).
But cat6a will obviously guarantee you the best stuff. So if the few extra bucks are nor problem for you then go for it
UTP = Unshielded twisted pair
FTP = Foiled twisted pair.
It looks like the it is shielded though too. I dont know. But the better the shield the better the cable, but as i mentioned here you prolly wont run many wires beside eachother and therefore they wont interfere. So UTP should just work fine. Get SFTP (shieled. foiled twisted pair) if you are paranoid or something kek
here watch this
youtube.com/watch?v=ROX6TgalmlQ
Thanks. Yeah, I'll get the 6a.
Thank you. I might as well get shielded.
I will watch this, thank you. I need to learn to terminate them. I'll use a bunch of practice wire first.
If it was stapled to the studs, kiss your bandwith goodbye. Low voltage electrician here, we aren't even allowed to use zip ties on Cat cable anymore, if some tard makes one too tight it causes reflections.
They make staples just for that.
They are really to terminate.
If go with shielded cable, get RJ45s with a metal jacket and solder the drain wire to the back of the jacket. Untwist as little of the pairs as possible. Make sure the jacket ends up in the strain relief of the RJ45. Don't use the terminations that allow the cable to come through the front of the connector. Also the $20 crimper at Fry's will get the job done just fine.
>Imagines a fat, stupid construction worker actually taking the time to use this instead of their staple gun
Kek
Great, thanks.
>not using fiber
I thought about that but it's an old house and I'm afraid of breaking it doing the pulls. If my walls were all open I'd probably consider it more.
that and fiber costs a fuck load, can add up to $80 a meter
I paid $150 to get fiber to my 8th floor condo and I’m pretty sure tje guy overcharged me
I saw spools of 1000ft for like $150. But maybe I wasn't looking at the right stuff...
It depends on your current speed, and future upgrades like other anons said, go for 7 if you can spare the extra bucks
are you sure you're using cat5 and not cat5e
cat5 hasnt been made in like decades. when people say cat5, they actually mean cat5e
which can do gigabit
but yeah go cat6 at least now for possible 10gigabit in the future
no pointin going for more expensive cat7 over cat6
they both can do up to 10gigabits. only difference is cat7 cables have more protection so you can drag the line longer than cat6. unless you have to pull a line for more than like 50(ithink?)/100 meters, you're fine with cat6/6a
Bit of a longshot here but can you anons recomend me a decent crimper tool for Rj45 conectors? The two different models I found on ebay literally chew on conectors and I kinda have to remake the tip 2 or 3 times for it to have proper stress relief and non chewed contacts.
I'm tired of this chink shit, at least give me better chink shit. pic related one of the ones I hate.
5 can't do gigabit
5e can do up to 2.5G
6 can do 5G and 10G up to 55m
6a can do 10G up to 100m but beware of grounding requirements if it's shielded (don't ground both ends). 6a isn't technically supposed to be shielded iirc but it's easier to make passing cables than u/utp cable.
7 is a shielded cable that might work on 40G~100G but who knows
The one I have at work is a Klein Tools, no complaints and I've made many ends with it.
>fiber cables
>expensive
Go back to /v/
Have you done this before user? Are you familiar with T-568A or T-568B? It will make things nice and organized
>6a can do 10G up to 100m but beware of grounding requirements if it's shielded (don't ground both ends). 6a isn't technically supposed to be shielded iirc but it's easier to make passing cables than u/utp cable.
So I should order the cheaper UTP cable?
I have not.
Thanks I will look it up
Just remember when setting up your cables to line up the wires Ow/O/Gw/Bl/Blw/G/Brw/Br
It's different for cat6e than it is for cat5 or something? I haven't looked into how they get crimped yet.
I've never had to terminate connectors since I just used pre-terminated cables from the wall to my devices, but the wall plates are super easy to terminate.
vid related
youtube.com
The one i posted was a T586b a T586a is Gw/G/Ow/Bl/Blw/O/Brw/Br
I just like B more it flows off the tongue but it really doesn't matter the order as long as they are the same on both ends
also remember that the plastic head the prong faces downward to be face up
>future proving
This doesn't happen in wiring.
Oh great! That does look easy. 'Wew.
We use Platinum Tools crimpers for our jobs.. the passthru RJ45 ends have dropped our error rate for crimping down to minimal levels.