/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Hello pcbg I have a Celeron build and a Chromebook which completely suffices for my current use case but I want to build a new pc to make ps3/4 play through capture videos. Is 1600 good enough, and also is there any drawback to buying a used Xeon workstation that gets similar benchmarks as 1600 / 2600?

This is all I have currently purchased, what would be good options for the rest Jow Forums?

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For gaymers its No and Yes. For productivity its Yes and Yes.

A 2600k to 2700x upgrade is worth making. FX8350 is a nobrainer considering how shit it is.

cpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-Ryzen-7-2700X-vs-AMD-FX-8350/3958vs1489

Everything is cheaper, except for ram and gpus. Ram is 3x times more expensive which skew the numbers. I could make quite substantial savings building pc from scratch now, compared to 7 years ago, but Ram and Gpu combo almost evens it out.

The fucking ram prices make old i7 2xxx-4xxx builds viable if you can find a motherboard. A used 4790k is the best value at the moment because of the ram prices.

damn that's a pretty big increase, I should probably go for that since I don't upgrade that often

you mean a new PC from scratch?
what games do you play/at what resolution?

For basic video playing and web surfing on linux is a cheap AMD or Nvidia card better to avoid screen tearing? What card under $250 is recommended?

I just want 1080p 60fps

That B350 should be enough for the 2600X but consider the B450 Tomahawk for a bit more and a CL14 kit, this one isn't B-Die but it has lower latency than the Aegis
mindfactory.de/product_info.php/search/true/16GB-G-Skill-RipJaws-V-dunkelgrau-DDR4-3000-DIMM-CL15-Dual-_1094913.html

since the prices are still high I wouldn't go higher than a 1060 6GB or RX 580 8GB

How many fire extinguishers do I need before buying a 9900k?

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Asking again is the 1700x better than the 2600?
Also is the rx480 still good ?

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My x370 mobo fucking died on me. To be honest, I wasn't a bit happy with ryzen at all really and I'm kind of put off going with them again. I'm considering the 8700k, would that be a waste?

Yes
No

would it be worth getting a hold of a GTX 1070 EVGA SC2 for £300 to upgrade up from a Radeon 6970?

Depends, how many can fit in your ass?

I have a budget of 1,200 usd. I'm trying to build a pc mainly for gaming (warhammer, overwatch, fallout) . This is my first attempt pcpartpicker.com/list/nJ689J
Is it okay?

Which one?

another user here, but similar situation with 2600. Whats better and why:

G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4 16GB (8GBx2) 3000MHz CL15 or G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4 16GB (8GBx2) 3200MHz CL 16.

The price difference is only $2 for me. Cl15 over 3200mhz? Or opposite.

Just buy a switch faggots

I'm at my wit's end. I'm building a 2400G PC with a X470 motherboard, and I'm not getting any signal. I've tried both RAM DIMMs in every slot, I've reseated the 4x2 pin CPU and 24 pin motherboard power cables. The stand-offs are all in their proper place.
The RGayB lighting on my motherboard comes on, the VRM heatsinks get hot, the fans spin. I haven't tried checking my CPU yet by taking it out, looking for bent pins etc. and reinstalling it. I do have some spare thermal paste so I could do that.

What's more, motherboard speakers do not seem to exist in my country, and although my last computer had one, it was built-in to the motherboard.
Can I use an oscilloscope / cheap logic analyzer in place of the motherboard speaker? I've already got an Analog Discovery.

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AM4 guaranteed support up to 2020

>pcpartpicker.com/list/nJ689J
it is, now get out and buy

What should I go for then ?
the 1070 is too expensive and 1060 is not that much stronger

Gigabyte GA AX370 Gaming K7

Nevermind anyway, fucking thing just came back to life again after the 4th attempt of plugging everything out and back in again. I don't know whether to happy or disappointed.

Is 2200g better than i3 8300

It's good but the 2600/2600X, a 620 EVO, the B450-A Pro and a faster kit would be better (CL14 is optimal). Also if possible avoid ACX GPUs

Only if you dont plan getting a gpu

And the CPU? The first generation motherboards were a bit rough

pcpartpicker.com/list/RbNpmq
How is this?

overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/asus_b450_prime_plus_review/15

Can someone explain to me how shitty mobos have better temps than high end bords?

not at all, 8700k is still king, pair it with a dark rock pro and you're set!

1700. Yeah apparently it's not an infrequent issue with those mobos in particular, but while it's working I may as well tough it out until ryzen 2 and see.

Trying to work with grandmas old pc.
Has Amd E1 1200, 4gb ram
Runs like shit
Has windows 8.1
Would a fresh install of windows 10 make this things run any faster at all and breathe some life into this machine?
Or is it better to not even touch anything

>Clock Speeds

>The Prime Plus doesn't offer overclocking options, so we're strictly limited to utilising it as a plug and play type motherboard. Perfect for the gamer on a budget who doesn't want to go through the faff of getting s solid overclock and the extra cooling that entails. Hopefully the stock results are good enough to make this a small issue rather than a large one.

Yikes.

is the mobo still enough for the 2700X? I don't really plan any overclocking

VRMs are kinda weak for a 2700x.

Install SSD.
Cut down on background programs.

Trying to get the best price to performance value for this, any opinions?

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Shit mobo, no B-die, overpriced meme HDD and shit PSU.

>400W
Don't be an idiot. If you upgrade your GPU you'll need a new PSU.
If you want 16GB RAM one day you'll need to buy a new 16GB kit or live with worse performance. Ryzen does not play well with 4 sticks.

Obviously and ssd would help but is windows 10 any more optimized as compared to 8.1 for older hardware

How gud is wraith spire

Fuck me, i didnt even realize asus would release a b450 board with zero OC. I didnt bother checking clocks because I assumed they would run a standardized bench setup.

That said, I see ITX strix board with better temps than ATX board despite ATX having better VRM.

If you dont want to OC its fine. Bit loud but should be fine. VRM most likely fine unlike with AIO or tower cooler.

Not that I know of.

You can save 60 pounds going for a 8400 build for the same performance

What would I replace my motherboard, HDD, and PSU with then?

Anyone with a custom loop or semi-custom who uses pastel coolant? I'm fairly worried about clogging vs using a glycol/water premix. Is that still a concern nowadays? Specifically looking at Mayhem.

1060ti

How much of a meme is monitor response time? I don't see the difference between 1ms and 5ms when human reaction time is like 200ms.

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pcpartpicker.com/list/4BmWBb
For US pcp isn't working, at least not for me so availability/prices could be an issue.

B350 vs b450 Tomahawk. Temps improved by 18-24 celsius depending on which reading you trust. HWinfo shows a 18 degree decrease in temps while a physical temp probe shows a 23 degree drop. B450 confirmed GOD TIER MOTHERBOARDS READY FOR RYZEN 3.

translate.google.no/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=no&ie=UTF-8&u=http://oc.jagatreview.com/2018/07/mosfet-temperature-msi-b450-tomahawk-vs-msi-b350-tomahawk-plus-di-ryzen-7-2700x/&edit-text=

>4 phase
>god tier

To add on this. Thank you Based Buildzoid. Thank you based reviewers that utterly ripped board makers apart when they used shitty components and used same components on boards from $50 to $150.

If it can do the equivalent of 4.25/4.3ghz 2600 overclock with ryzen 3 without heavily lowering lifespan of board then its good enough.

How's that a comparison? 2400G is far better. You have to bring cost into it, but I'd say it's generally not worth getting a new PC with less than a 3770. Ideally not less than a 4790k or 2400G.

For IPS it's important, as you're more likely to notice tearing with the lower response time.
For TN it's less important. But why would you use a shitty TN screen with an expensive graphics card unless it's just a 1050Ti, 970, or something?

Threadripper3 next year would probably get you the most for your money.
You should pay someone else to build you it. And not some faggot like Jayz2cents.

HAF XB isn't THAT old. And I don't like those cases with a huge footprint on the desk like that. But whatever, do what you want.

Sure. That's not false at all.
But 10% of games is still a lot of games. Why would you want something that only works fine 90% of the time instead of 100% of the time?
But those tests DO properly show that 4 threads, even at 5GHz, is simply not enough for tons of games.
Their other video on benchmarks themselves also explain that most game benchmarks are graphics benchmarks, not CPU ones, and real gameplay tends to be more CPU heavy and perform even worse on those 4 thread CPUs compared to the benchmarks.
A good example is BF1s benchmark being fairly low CPU usage, but 64 player multiplayer being shit on 4 threads.

I wouldn't get that board.
And no, DDR5 and AM5 isn't coming to consumers until 2022-2023, most likely, with Zen5 (6000 series) or so. Or maybe on X499/X599 and Treadripper4 (5000 series) before that in 2021ish.
4K is mostly going to depend on GPU as video is typically decoded on GPU.
But even if you had a busted old GPU, yes 2600X is powerful enough to brute force software decode 4k video streams.

1000 series is worse for gaming.
1700X would be better than the 2600 in high threaded applications that aren't memory latency intensive.

>without heavily lowering lifespan of board then its good enough.
That's a fairly subjective benchmark that can't really be tested since the board is brand new. It's 4 phase, which is on the very low end.

>Ryzen 3
You can talk about this next year.

You can look at what VRMs are rated for (e.g: 5000 hours @125 celsius), look at what temps you get and make an educated guess out of that.

Pcbg what’s your solution for adding an ssd into a case that doesn’t have anywhere to mount it

Dunno. Overclocked, I know it's generally better than an 8100.
But at the 8300 price, shouldn't you be comparing to the 2400G, which yeah, is better?

Do they not even allow offsets or to enable PBO?

Response time is how long it takes for the pixels to change color and brightness. You're confusing it with input latency.
Also that's the grey-to-grey response time. The color-to-color is generally going to be many ms slower.
You want 5ms at the slowest to prevent ghosting... but these are advertised numbers, and often kind of fake, so really you need proper tests to really tell. Especially for color-to-color.
Like my old IPS is advertised at 7ms grey-to-grey, 12ms on-off, but the real color-to-color response time is more like 25ms, which is a whole frame and a half of ghosting and really noticeable. Really, I see more like 5 or 6 frames of ghosting at times. But most of these newer AHVA advertised at 4-5ms are actually a lot better.
So, generally, anything 5ms or lower is fine, but it'd help if you

4 decent phases with a decent heatsink like that board has is more than enough for a 6 core Ryzen overclock. It's fine even in a passive airflow scenario.
It's fine for a 2700X as long as you have airflow over the VRMs.
The Pro4 is fine as well.

Yes, and that there are 2x high-side and 2x low-side per choke like the Tomahawk and Mortar. But you typically need a high res picture of the board with the heatsinks off to see the part numbers.

Put it anywhere. It has no moving parts so outside of aesthetics it really doesn't need to be mounted. I left my SSD on the bottom of my case for almost a year.

"it's fine" doesn't equal to "god tier" in my book. A true 6 phase with good VRM+DIGI and adequate cooling, that would be god tier.

Do fanless PSUs heat up the case considerably? I want as silent system as possible and I'm trying to decide between a Seasonic 600W fanless vs something semi-passive around 850W+.

The PSU will be powering a Threadripper and a high-end GPU so you know it's already going to be a furnace inside the case. I'm not sure whether a fanless PSU will make case temps much worse than they already are or the temp difference might be negligible?

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>Budget

~300/400€

>List your uses

Gaming, Linux, Developement

I want to upgrade my current build (look the pic), it was a prebuild PC, I changed the graphic card.

I want to update to a ryzen, but I need to change the motherboard, RAM & PSU.

No one have some recommendation?

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Whats /pcbg/'s SSD of choice?
What SSD do you recommend for good value? at least 240GB would be nice

are ram prices dropping any time soon? or am I fucked for having only bought 8 gigs of ram a couple years ago.

>are ram prices dropping any time soon?
Until the big 3 are actually found guilty and fined for price fixing the prices are going to stay high.

That 1050 will bottleneck any worthwhile upgrade anyways.

850/860 EVO, MX500, SU800.

>are ram prices dropping any time soon?
Already have but don't expect them to drop any further. Sellers have learned they can jew the customer however they like.

Fuc

Any non-DRAMless SSD will suit you fine.
Fuck, even DRAMless NVME drives are now great too thanks to HMB.

So I built this rig about 2 years ago and want to upgrade to an Nvidia GPU mostly for emulation reasons. What is my best option at the moment with prices still being fucked?

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Oh, that's fair. Yes, the VRMs on boards like the Tomahawk, Mortar, and Pro4 are just "good enough". They are not enthusiast grade.

You should be able to sell what you have for a bit, no? And then you should be able to afford a 2600/X, board, RAM, and PSU fine in your budget.
You should try to get an SSD too, though

MX500 and 860 Evo are the fastest SATA SSDs with good endurance and cache, outside something like the 860 Pro which is expensive.
SU900, WD Blue, Mushkin Source, Team Group L5 3D, or basically anything with 3D NAND, are cheaper and a bit slower due. But generally not cheap enough to be worth saving the money over an MX500.
Yeah.

It'll probably not be until China's state owned fab comes online that prices actually drop. 10 billion dollar fabs don't get built over night.

Forgot the damn link. pcpartpicker.com/list/4Wr8qk

Fanless PSU here, there's not really any difference inside the Motherboard area.

I use the translucent EK-WB branded stuff (apparently it's rebranded mayhems) as I wanted low maintenance long lifespan. Apparently pastels and opaques these days are reported to be a lot more fuss free than that of a couple years ago, but I'm happy to sit back and see a few more results. Although I think the next time I reconfigure I'll be going a clear coolant anyway.

Does anyone have a good build ($1500 - $2000) for training deep learning models?

You can sometimes find a 1060 6Gb for a reasonable price, like $250.
But for emulation alone, a 3Gb card might be enough, and those are much more often on the used market.

No, you should have positive air pressure in your case which should be pushing air through your fanless PSU and out of your case.
There is an argument to be made for negative case air pressure with a fanless PSU as well, but meh.

Good PSUs don't give off much heat. The math is really simple...
At 300watts, 94% efficiency, there is only 18 watts of waste heat coming off of that. Basically like a 1500 lumens LED light bulb to the touch. It's almost nothing.

you obviously don't remember 'fucked prices'

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I'm still of the mind that you should wait till the end of this month.
Once the 1100s are announced the 1000s are bound to drop in price by at least a small, but significant amount.

>by at least a small, but significant amount

that's a very vague statement

The AIO I'm looking at comes with Pastel white instead of regular coolant like they used to use. I imagine it's probably fine, but my case has no windows, so looks take a backseat to reliability/performance to me. How long have you been using yours?

Because it's not based on anything but feelings. Hell, for all we know they could raise the price of the 1000 series by $150 so more people will be attracted to the new cards.

honestly just watch craigslist a few months after the new cards are released and bug-free. after the gtx1080ti came out there were a lot of people selling 1080s for 50-60 dollars under msrp.

What about a used GTX 970 or 980

970 only has 3.5 GB of vram, but the 980 is solid.

Which is better for ryzen 1700?
One 8gb 3000mhz or two 4gb 2400?

Which aio is that? I'm sure it's specifically formulated to work in that specific system so I'm sure it'll be fine.
My current system has been together since start of January with no signs of separation or cloudiness, but I'm expecting to get at least two years out of it before I'll need to flush (I intend on adding a GPU to the loop before then anyway). I also just went with EK-WB branded copper stuff (CPU block is nickel plated) to keep it simple and lessen the likely hood of galvanic corrosion, and I know EK has a large full cover support for many different GPUs making expanding easier.