/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

>Buyer's template:
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>Keyboard wiki
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>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org/web/20161101152119/http://keypuller.com/)

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Attached: Cherry-MX-Mechanical-Switch-Chart-Guide.png (1024x768, 65K)

>Does scratchiness annoy you?
>Yes: No MX switches except for clears

this flowchart is autistic and retarded. keys are all preference there is no flow chart you can follow for "gaming" keys

is this gud for 230e

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What's the best keyboard with 5 macro buttons on the left? Preferably with RGB lighting too cause I like to map key functions with colors.

Budget: $150 USD

I use MX Blue clones for gaming and they work just fine, don't notice a difference in actual performance from my MX Red keyboard.
Actually I think I like blues more for Quake, it makes strafejumping easier.

After waiting four months my r6 Planck is finally being shipped. Thank fucking god.

imo red switches should be a niche recommendation for typists/devs. I use red switches but I almost never play video games, it's mostly for programming.

I like that they're super light and you barely need to tap them for them to register. I can type nonstop for hours without fatigue because I barely put any pressure into the keys.

>unironically buying overpriced rubber domes

What does Jow Forums think of Romer G switches? How to they compare to cherry browns/reds?

Stop buying Cherry switches.

kill yourself

Which is the best Omron Switch mascot?

Attached: omron switches.jpg (1346x720, 676K)

This. I use a Model M and all cherrys feel too light to me. I tried a bunch and the only real difference I noticed was some being slightly more audible than others.

Any thoughts on purchasing a chink keyboard from aliexpress? I already own a mechanical "gay-mer" keyboard but i wanna dip my toes in the world of chink shit.

Where do the mx silvers fall on the flowchart

>Not factoring greens into your flowchart.
What the fuck is wrong with you? Light and heavy are differentiated for tactile non-clicky so what's the deal?

I agree, cherry reds are far too light, personally i feel that it is easier to make mistakes on them when typing.

I have an old Steelseries 7G and would like another keyboard with Blacks. I can not find anything

Garbage chart for garbage people

I'm upgrading from a Razer Blackwidow Chroma. Currently deciding between a Cooler Master MK750 and Blackwidow Chroma V2 (because I can get a really good deal on it, cheaper than MK750).

I heard the Razer Green switches on the Chroma V1 (which I like) had a unique feel to them, and were less resistant/clicky than Cherry MX Blues, which I haven't used ever. I certainly don't mind a bit of resistance and like clickiness, but probably not too much.

I can't try anything because no retailers in my area have keyboards on display. The macro keys on the Chroma V2 appeal to me, but my V1 got a busted key after 18 months, giving me doubles or no press at all 40% of the time.

What should I pick?

>xe thinks you can't game with blues

neither stupid consumerist

Hey pals, just received my brand new Ducky One Black RGB today. Figured I post a mini review. Still getting used to typing on it but there's more to it than that of course.

First off this thing is rock solid. It's got some serious heft to it, which I like a lot. The black finish is very handsome, and the double-shot PBT caps seem really nice. These keycaps have the finer print legends than what I've seen on most Ducky boards. I personally think they look way nicer than the thick, split-character caps that other Duckys have, but some people might complain that the LEDs dont shine through some of the caps uniformly. Not really an issue for me. The keyboard came with some nice looking red keycaps for ESC, Enter, Backspace, and the arrow keys. The legends are white, not translucent though, so the LEDs do not shine through. It also came with a Year of the Rooster spacebar installed, which I promptly replaced with the included blank spacebar. My biggest issue with the rooster one is that it is painted ABS and the finish did not match the rest of the PBT keycaps.

I love the controls for the RGB LEDs. No stupid software needed, everything is done with the function keys. If you want a solid color you can hit Function+Space and the whole keyboard lights up like a rainbow. You hit the key with the color you want and the whole keyboard is set to that color. There's a bunch of neat RBG programs that you can cycle through as well which are fun, but not something I would ever keep the board set to.

The size of the board is pretty standard for a 100% board, no frills or extras, except for some volume controls and a calculator shortcut key in the top right. I'm coming from a Logitech G710+, which is HUGE compared to the Ducky. I have a lot more desk space now. Pic related (RIP G710, it was a good board for five years)

Attached: 20180822_160755.jpg (1210x908, 406K)

>poorfag getting buttangry
Keep the tears flowing, idiot.

>hhkb tofu version comes with an intergrated plate a d hot swap pcb
>the regular tofu doesn't


Reeee why not

There are a few things that bother me pretty much right away. For one thing, if you try to slide the board back on the desk, the risers collapse, which is rather annoying. I just need to get used to having to lift the board to move it I guess.
The keys are a bit noisy when they bottom out, the spacebar is especially loud. I may steal the black o-rings from my logitech board and see if that makes a difference.

The biggest issue I have with it so far, and I didnt see this in ANY reviews I read, is that there are two bright-as-fuck LEDs under the spacebar that peek out when I'm leaning back a bit. They are very distracting and I think I may need to cover them with some tape or something. Pic related, these fuckers are blinding at full brightness. Really the only poor design choice I see so far.

Overall a really nice looking board. I'm very happy with my purchase at the moment. I just wish I could have gotten it with Clears instead of Browns. I like the browns a lot, my G710 had them, but I wanted to try the clears. Too bad the only option in my budget for a 100% board with clears was the WASD CODE. However I read that they have shitty ABS keycaps and issues with the keys squeaking and getting stuck. For 155 United States Dollarydoos I'm not dealing with that. The Ducky was cheaper and seems like a better board.

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I bought a $60 chinese mechanical keyboard and I was in love with it until the board started fucking up 2 years later. Even after cleaning some keys just don't register really well, so now that I know I like mechanical keyboards, what can you recommend that will last at least 5+ years, preferably 10+?

Do I need to get the big guys like Ducky, Topre, etc or do mid-level brands have good build quality to last me a while?

Attached: AgWt6.gif (500x277, 985K)

I dont like the feel of Cherry MX Black switches for typing but the silent version of the black switches has extra dampening and it is maximum comfy. I think I've found my favorite cherry switch.

why the fuck would a linear switch be better for gaymen? i play fps games a lot and i can't live without knowing when the damn switch was activated

I feel like linear switches would allow a player to be smoother with their inputs, never tried them though.

Hi

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that auto post without a captcha

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I bought an mx-blue one for fps gaming because I thought I liked the clicky sound, boy did that get old and annoying real quick.
Don't make the same mistake I made, go for something quiet and/or get a set of o-rings.

Has anybody heard of bounce times of 15+ ms with Cherry brand green switches? I've got a keyboard manufacturer claiming that as high as 50 ms is normal, and I'm looking for something to confirm or deny that.

Cherry's datasheets say < 5 ms, but also specifies a specific actuation speed. It's unclear to me what the reasonable upper bound is.

Most presses I've measured are done bouncing after like 0.3 ms, but every once in a while I'll get something crazy in the 15 ms ballpark.

it took one semester with a roommate who had blues to realize i never wanted to hear that sound again.

Where can I get custom USB-C 3.1 cables made?

Because for games, it's faster to just bottom out and reset without having to listen for a small click while playing games
Plus you never just spam endlessly and regulating play dampens finger strain

I just threw Tai-Hao Miami on my Saber 60, can I join the cool club now?

I used to have that same keyboard before I got into mechs, good times. I'm much happier with my typing and gayman experience now though.