/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide for your socket

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses; eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose and graphics card pairing.
>Don't use Speccy. Use HWinfo, SIV, etc.
>For Win7 in Ryzen, refer to pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1 (embed)

CPU
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G/i5-8400 - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>Wait for 9700k - Almost surely best for 1080p gaming
>R7 2700/X - Best high-end gaming/mixed usage on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards are worse performance per $ than current GPUs. Just a marketing gimmick to rip off idiots
>Avoid cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others which have small heatsinks and low quality fans
1080p
>RX 570/580 /w Freesync or 1060 6GB are standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050 3Gb or RX560 for lower settings and/or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 if seeking higher FPS /w a high hz monitor
1440p
>Vega 56; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti if seeking higher FPS /w a high hz monitor
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Maybe 2080Ti, but awful value.
OpenCL work
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard
>NVMe are not for gaming; See "More"

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models.
>Always consider FreeSync with AMD cards
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

Previous thread
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rentry.co/pcbg-more

Attached: nvidia performance uplift over generations.png (2559x1398, 491K)

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/8MrQhy
pcpartpicker.com/list/Y8Ggq4
tweaktown.com/reviews/8694/gigabyte-b450-aorus-pro-wifi-amd-motherboard-review/index.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/
twitter.com/AnonBabble

And tomorrow there'll be a Vega 56 for $380 and the cheapest 1070Ti will be $410 or some shit.
But at the time the video was made, and for about 3 weeks prior, you could regularly find one for $380-$400, not $430.

>see
Everyone knows Vega56 is clock-for-clock the same as Vega64. Gamer's Nexus and others have tested this. All Vega 56 will reach Vega 64's clocks fine.
That shows Vega64 as 1% above the 1070Ti. So by your own admission, your own source, Vega56 is as good or better than 1070Ti.
If that's what you're trying to say, why are you saying it in such a contrarian manner as if you're disagreeing when your sources agree with what I posted?

Either find a 1050 3Gb or get a used 960 4Gb.
1050 2Gb is absolute garbage.

Other than that buzzword stuff which is hard to decipher:
AMD has better display support in general besides just Freesync. Pascal and earlier Nvidia cards, like the 1060, lose on average around 10% of FPS using HDR. Also supports 4x 4k@60hz monitors all the way down to their integrated graphics on APUs, which is generally more than any non-quadro card supports.
Shadowplay lowers more FPS, generally around 1.5-3.5%, compared to the 0.3-1.3% that Relive tends to lower. Relive also has more/better configuration, including h265 support.
Built in overclocking and fan control on an application-by-application basis that actually works well.
AMD is way ahead in features in software in general. You can just expect the cards to last longer before games start using new features they don't support, or driver support gets shitty. (though Nvidia does support some more legacy stuff like Windows 8.1, and really old cards, even if they run shit in newer games. Like a post earlier noted, you might need UEFI BIOs for never AMD cards)

>R7 2700/X - Best high-end gaming

Kill yourself shill

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>recommending vega
Another shill OP

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What kind of motherboard I can use for my i3 8350k if I dont want to overclock it?

There was a good 20 minutes for you to make a new one.

>buying 4thread
>buying a CPU which its selling point is that it's unlocked, and not overclocking it
I'm not sure anyone will answer your question instead of just laugh at you, because the question relies on such stupid circumstances.

Any b360 will do

I can buy i3 8350k for the same price of i3 8100, for some reason. Dont want to buy expencive motherboard and powerful cooler for overclock at least not this month.

Any chance you have a Microcenter or something that will sell a combo?

I'm building a PC for a relative. They want RGB. I told them not to, that it's overpriced and unnecessary garbage. They still want RGB. So, since I'm a die-hard Noctua fanboy and don't know anything about current RGB offerings, what are my best options?

I also considered getting chromax noctuas and slapping Phanteks' Halos thing on them, how is that?

You can get the 2400G for around that price too, no? It has twice as many threads, and SMT is actually good unlike Intel's HT.

Anyone wanna tell me where I fucked up?
pcpartpicker.com/list/8MrQhy

>no idea what to do for cpu fan or case
>not going to build for a month, probably going to use a 9700k instead
>2080 is placeholder depending on 1080ti price
>got 3200hz ram, seems like cl14 isn’t worth the extra cash

Currently using 1080p144hz. Much rather high and steady fps than anything higher and falling below 100.

Whats the use here? Gaming? Whats your monitor set up?

At a glance I feel you could have cut back on the gpu budget and and gone for a 650W PSU and got the better ram and got some m.2 drives and a full tower instead of a mid tower.

If you're going for a 4k 144hz monitor then it can arguably stay but again I think skimping out on other things for the GPU is p off.

Also you're paying premium for the option to have SLI when theres higher end mobos for single GPUs. Why is tgat? Do you have a backup card that's going in for another monitor? Otherwise you can swap to a diff mobo.

I'm torn between the 1700 and the 1800x CPU's. It seems like, as obviously cooling doesn't come with the 1800x, I'd be spending essentially £50 more for .6 GHz of speed. As clock speed isn't vital to me I'm debating spending £50 on it, which is how much the standard AMD Spire coolers are.
However, there are also a lot of coolers for only around £20, I'd certainly pay that much for the extra clock speed. Will coolers around this price still properly cool my CPU though? I won't be overclocking, of course.

Go full Corsair LL series with an AiO H***I pro rgbt for a cooler and a Commander pro to have it all sync'd. He will suck yo dick after that.

Don't forget the led strips and the Corsair mouse, keyboard, and rbgt mouse mat

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>M.2
Nothing wrong with an M.2, but why go for it when I could get a 1tb SSD for the same price?
>RGB Ram
Why do RGB ram when the same company makes a 3200 non-RGB option for cheaper?
the machine you're building is going to cost you an arm and a leg. Try cutting back a little on the non-necessities for now.

What's a good starting point for Ryzen 2600 overclocking? Like 4.0Ghz and 1.35V or what? Currently using it on stock, so 3.6Ghz max (it doesn't break 60C during stress testing).
Mainly I just want to raise frequency without having to up my voltage.
Also what do you stress your RAM with? I set my 3000MHz stick to 3200 and it works fine. Is Prime95 ok?

>8350k if I dont want to overclock it
lol

Just wait for 9700k :)

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Cryorig H7 and replace the fans with RGB ones.
And sometimes you can get RGB B-die RAM for the same price as usual B-die RAM.
Might be better off with a down-blower which shows off the RGB fan better, like the Cryorig C1 or that new Bequiet 230W TDP cooling one.

I don't like how Phanteks' Halos look. You can see the dot of the LED. Not diffuse enough.

Lots of fuckups
>NVMeme for gaming
>Gigabyte card with those terrible fans
>not buying 1080Ti when they were $600, and now being stuck with a garbage $800 2080. Either of which you probably won't make use of.
>Buying a fundamentally broken architecture CPU, instead of waiting for the 9700k which is at least supposed to have *some* hardware level fixes
>spending $2000-without-monitor FOR FUCKING BABY RESOLUTION 1080p
You're not good with money and should just donate it to charity instead.

I think so, yes.
>test RAM with
memtest86. Most people will say to leave it on overnight, but that's for old dual cores and DDR3. 1-2 hours should be fine for a 2600.

Primarily gaming. Current monitor is xg2401. I don’t mind upgrading, but not if it’s going to cut into frames.
I don’t need the storage space, I just threw it in there because I heard it’s significantly faster than standard ssd.
Just fucked up on the motherboard, any brand you recommend?
Same with the ram.

>donating to charity just so some other retard can build a pc instead
yikes

Price isn’t really a problem. I’ve been using a 670 I got as a gift years ago. I don’t mind spending extra for finally not having to care about graphics settings.

What is the least bloated windows?

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XP

whatcha reckon Jow Forums

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While 8c/16t for $210 is insane value, do you really need the r7 1700?

I'm currently rocking an Athlon 6 core, so this is quite a big upgrade for me. I probably don't /need/ it but I'm expecting my desktop to start failing on me soon (it already has somewhat) so I don't see a reason not to upgrade to AM4 now.

State your purpose.

Occasional gayming (keeping the 750Ti until I can afford to shove a 1050 in to keep it company) and general Linux shit. As I said above, current desktop is starting to show it's age.

We yurop here. It costs much, much more. 219€ in my country. Like 265$.

I'd recommend the 2600(x) instead. It's cheaper and will fill its purpose. It already has 6c/12t. I don't know why you'd need more if you're not a professional.

You can get them for 170euro even.

so will the 2700X ever go on sale? Doesn't seem like it until black Friday. There's some places doing ~$290 but they all have sales tax so it's a wash.

Same question for PSUs and mechanical hard drives, theyre the last things I need to buy and after 2 weeks I haven't seen any good sales.

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based oldfag

In what parallel universe?
209£ is like 230€.

That might actually be a good shout, didn't realize how much cheaper it was. Was looking forward to 8 cores but the massive clock speed and cache increase, and general multithreading in general will still be good.

one that isnt outdated, like what version of windows 10?

this is the earliest image in my folder, im assuming this is epoch time so around 2007

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LTSC

In some store I found on google even 1700x are for 200euro. Dunno here in Poland 1st gen ryzens are dirty cheap. I'm talking new of course not used, used are going even cheaper.

>mechanical hard drives
They're already dirt cheap man

theyre tempting for the price but I want to just get a 2700x and use xfr2 / pbo and crank the bclk, heard you can get some great results that way

Up to 4.5 maybe, but the 7nm will be significantly better.

im obsessed with not paying full price for anything in my builds. I usually buy everything slowly over ~4 weeks, autistically checking slickdeals everyday.

I got a 1080ti for $475 used, card was in perfect condition and was the highend MSI reference so I got lucky. Having to pay full price for a 2700X is gonna hurt but I guess I may have to bite the bullet

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probably but I'd like a new PC now and who knows how long zen2 will take, Q2 of 2019 is too long to wait. There will always be something better on the horizon, and fortunately as far as I know the X470 boards should still be find if you decide to upgrade in a couple years.

Get the cheaper 2600(4ghz) for 150 or the 1600x (4ghz) for 135 or 133 for 1600 (3.8 ghz).

If you're not utilizing heavy multithread where the 8c16 vs 6c12 makes a huge difference, its better to get the cheaper 6c12t for general end use.

You won't have to care about graphics settings at 1080p with a 1070Ti or Vega56. You're spending twice as much money for 30% higher FPS at best. At best since you'd often hit that 144fps cap on a 1070Ti or Vega56 to begin with, in which case you're getting 0% higher.

Windows 2000.

For gaming you should get the 2600 instead. It's faster than the 1700 in games and costs less.
Also you need dual channel memory.
And get a motherboard that's not shit with the money you save on CPU.

No real competition from Intel, so no. Not until the 3700X is about to launch or after it launches.

Yes, you can get something like 4.53GHz 2-core boost pretty reliably that way. Tends to match/beat the 8700k @ 5GHz assuming you have the fast RAM to go with either.

Was even about to ask him to consider 2200/2400G or some i3. It all depends with what he wants to play tho.

> no competition
B-but Intel said the 9900K ($580) will beat it!!

Any full size case recommendations?
Indifferent to lightning, although I want a glass panel, looking at the insides gives me a boner.

I've already switched to the 2600 by recommendation of another user. What's wrong with the motherboard?

2600 or 2600x is honestly better then the 1700x in almost every scenario but like 2 and thats for compression or something.

Is a 2600/2600x a good buy for a few years of relatively lightweight workloads like gaming and VM work?
I'll use the cheapest CL16 3200mhz 16gb ram kit that I can find (around 140€).GPU is a 1070. Not much into overclocking. I'd rather let XFR do it's job.

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It needs a bios update to function with that generation of chip. So going with a b450(and benefiting from a few goodies like free StoreMI) is probably a better idea than getting a bios update for the price of a 450.

What usually happens when you put unsupported RAM into a mobo? I'm looking into getting the MSI Carbon B450 and the supported 2933 kits are all $400+ on Newegg and Amazon.

Either the 2600x/8400 or 8600 if you don't OC. Since you speak in Euros the only reasonable purchase is the Ryzen.

According to reviews the new models are fine for the 2nd gen, and I run two SSD's in Raid 0 for my OS so I'm good without StoreMI, I'll save the £15.

Gigabyte AM4 boards are pretty much all trash except for *maybe* the Gaming 7.

Yes.

What fans should I get for a Fractal Define C to give it good airflow?

for an apu, wat will be better, high frequenzy ram with lose timings or thight timings at 3000mhz or so? 2200g

Is this good for a 4k/VR build? (Ignore the missing case and Hard Drives)
pcpartpicker.com/list/Y8Ggq4

Tight timings, but with such a cpu you can do with 2400-2666MHz RAM

what is the absolute cheapest and most shitty Graphics card one can buy with 4-way SLI support? What about 3-way or even 2-way?

Noctuas, two 140s in front and one 140 rear.

I always hear the Aorus boards, ASROCK, and ASUS/RoG were the only brands that didn't completely shit the bed with AM4 (and anandtech kind proved MSI was scamming with one of their 470 boards claiming it had 12 phases when it only had 4).

Whats you qualm with the Gigabyte ones besides of course the bloatware they come with? The audio codecs they come with are good for a motherboard, and build quality on AORUS are nice imo

SEETHING

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Thanks, so 3x 140mm fans. Are they expensive? Do they make the Define less of a hotbox and more comparable to a meshify?

Define C fans don't matter too much. The front being blocked off will restrict no matter what you put behind it. I'd just buy some Artic ones or something. Good value

Almost all B450/X470 boards are from decent, good, to great, except for Gigabyte ones which are all dogshit except the Gaming 7 which is just good-ish.

Is the Meshify noisy?

is there a mobo/oem-system that uses laptop ddr3 ram? my old laptop finally died and its ram is still fine, was thinking of looking for an older system to try and use it and some other pieces of that laptop again (it was pretty much just stationary as this point, like a remote login, file and chat server). would rather not get another old laptop

Is RGB really unnecessary guys, how to know without ever having had it. It adds up to an extra like $200 if I get RGB on everything from motherboard to ram to fans.

Ram and fans tend not to perform as good as their non rgb counterparts. ie Flare X > Trident Z / Vengeance LPX > Vengeance RGB / ML140 > ML140 RGB

I'm the end it's up to you. If you are a cocksucking faglord, or if you have a sense of reason.

Not trying to disagree but the Aorus 450 Pro looks great at least for a single card non sli configuration perspective.

tweaktown.com/reviews/8694/gigabyte-b450-aorus-pro-wifi-amd-motherboard-review/index.html

8+3 vrm is already middle ground x470 stuff and allows for nice OC. But yeah as the review here pointed out they skimped out on the wifi chip on a board advertised for its wireless capabilities which is kinda funny.

How much are we talking about in the whole not as good part? How severe is the difference?

Meshify is as noisy as your fans and coils are.

Gigabyte has a lot of problems with LLC and voltage regulation in general.
It's not uncommon that we get anons in here asking why their Ryzen is at 1.4v+ under just light gaming. It's because they have a Gigabyte board. And memory compatibility on them is shit when it's fine on the other boards.

Some Trident Z is very good. Apparently there is one of them which actually is dual rank B-die, which is some of the only dual rank you can get in DDR4 AND B-die. For some reason they put both good and mediocre dies on the same branding.

Is this the AMD card I want to buy? Seems like a really good sale.

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it's a good card for that price.

I have the same one and as happy as I am with the performance, it was extremely overpriced at the time but I didn't have much choice.

Looking for a secondary WQHD non TN panel for office/movies with ergonomic stand, preferably below 300€.
Does anyone know some good monitor that fits the criteria?
Currently have a V7 aka ViewSonic 2K clone but its kinda meh compared to my PG279Q,even for ever day/office usage.

That seems a little expensive at that price. I've seen the Nitro+ at that price. Though it does come with the games.
It's a decent card, though.

Best value I've seen today is the RX570 Strix really. Only $185 for like 85-90% the same performance.
XFX usually has a decent card around $225 for sale somewhere. That's around the price I'd want to see the Pulse at as well to be good value.

How important is memory compatability? I'm the guy looking at the MSI Carbon Pro and most of the RAM listed as compatible costs as much as a GPU. I was looking at cheaper, but still expensive, kits but they aren't in the compatible list. They're still listed as Ryzen supported though.

For fans, quite a lot. For ram, negligeable really. I'm just being a dick.
Salsa on the dual ranked B-Die?

>Meshify is as noisy as your fans and coils are.
are Noctua fans best? I want a quiet good looking case with good airflow

Should i get a cheap USB wifi adapter or a cheap PCI(Not PCIe X1, i dont have slots left so it has to be PCI) wireless adapter?
More or less the same price.

Router is behind a wall and 8 meters away.

I've been wanting a SFF build for awhile now. But i would miss OCing for the easy gains.

QVL doesn't matter that much with the 2000 series chips and 400 series borders. The VENDOR can't test every kit.
Any 3000 CL15 kit (which you can get for ~$135 US for 2x8Gb) will work on the non-Gigabyte 400 series boards at 2933 CL15 at the very least, which is perfectly fine. Any B-die kit will also work.

F4-3200C14D-32GTZ
Any 3200 CL14 16Gb DIMM is dual rank. It has to be dual rank Samsung B-die to run at those speeds, and Samsung B-die are only 8Gb just like E-die are only 4Gb.
I believe there is also a Trident Z 8Gb DIMMs kit which uses 2 E-die, too. But I can't be bothered to hunt for it now.

There are reasonably small cases which can fit something like the Cryorig C1.
Just about any case with the PSU mounted above the CPU, with an SFX and ATX-to-SFX adapter will, too.

Not-super-cheap USB one with an extension cord are often best. Lets you isolate it from the noise of your case.
For cheap, PCI or m.2 are generally better than those shitty little dongles.

Fair enough, thanks for the sauce.

So anything with 3000 and CL15 will most likely work, okay. Is B-die worth it if I'm not oc'ing?

ive been using a 1080p 60hz monitor for years and im sick of it, should I upgrade to 1080p 144hz to save some $ or shoot for a 1440p/144hz screen?

Seagate or WD for storage?

I've just had my 4TB Seagate Barracuda fail on me after about 5 years, losing everything (can't even initialise the disk to attempt to recover).

What are the specs of your current computer, specifically the GPU?

4690k @ 4.4Ghz and a 970
I was probably going to upgrade next year once the new AMD CPUs/GPUs dropped

pcpartpicker.com/list/
This build is objectivalialy good Jow Forums, don't even try it.

nice one dipshit

I'm pretty certain a 970 would struggle to even produce 1440p in the first place, so I'd go with a 1080p monitor.

Whatever you say, man.

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You can look at tests but from my understanding there's a very small difference (a couple centigrade) between the define and Meshifys cooling performance. The define is well designed.

If you really want to go all out then pay the extra 5 bucks and get 2000rpm industrial Noctuas.

Like I said I was looking to upgrade anyway, I was just wondering if I should wait until after I upgrade or before I upgrade I guess

>buying windows
yikes

If you are gonna upgrade as much as you say you're planning to, then go ahead and feast your eyes on 1440p. Just make sure whatever you upgrade to is good enough to run well at such a high resolution and fps.