/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Create a parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Learn how to build a PC
Search youtube for a guide for your socket

Want help?
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses; eg Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose and graphics card pairing.
>Don't use Speccy. Use HWinfo, SIV, etc.
>For Win7 in Ryzen, refer to pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

CPU
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming(dGPU optional)
>R5 2400G/i5-8400 - Consider IF on sale
>R5 2600/X - Good gaming & multithreaded work use CPUs
>Wait for 9700k - Almost surely best for 1080p gaming
>R7 2700/X - Best high-end gaming/mixed usage on a non-HEDT platform
>Threadripper/Used Xeon - HEDT

RAM
>8GB - Enough for most gaming use
>16GB - Standard for heavy use
>32GB - If you have to ask, you don't need this
>CPUs benefit from fast RAM; 2933MHz+ is ideal

Graphics cards
>RTX 2000 cards are worse performance per $ than current GPUs. Just a marketing gimmick to rip off idiots
>Avoid cheap MODELS ie MSI Armor (Mk2 is ok), Gigabyte G1/Wf, ASUS dual, and others which have small heatsinks and low quality fans
1080p
>RX 570/580 /w Freesync or 1060 6GB are standard 1080p 60fps+ options
>1050 3Gb or RX560 4Gb for lower settings and/or older games
>GTX 1070Ti/Vega 56 if seeking higher FPS /w a high hz monitor
1440p
>Vega 56; 1070Ti/1080 if you already have Gsync
>GTX 1080Ti if seeking higher FPS /w a high hz monitor
4K
>Upscale from 1620-1800p. Maybe 2080Ti, but awful value.
OpenCL use
>Vega 64

Storage
>Backup before using StoreMi
>Consider getting a larger SSD (better GB/$) instead of small SSD & large HDD
>2TB HDDs are barely more $ than 1TB
>M.2 is a form factor, NOT a performance standard
>NVMe are not for gaming; See "More"

Display
>Consider 75hz minimum; 60hz are mostly old models.
>Always consider FreeSync with AMD cards
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING

Previous thread
More
rentry.co/pcbg-more

Attached: yes.jpg (540x295, 134K)

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=ecCA0gx_eZk
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132855R&cm_re=Z170-_-13-132-855R-_-Product
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137091
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820331049
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125964&ignorebbr=1
pcpartpicker.com/list/HJc8zY
pcpartpicker.com/list/t4VkzY
pcpartpicker.com/list/VgD9yX
techpowerup.com/vgabios/197472/sapphire-rxvega64-8176-171205
pcpartpicker.com/list/KjWgq4
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

I think I finally understand these SSD terms.

2.5" the better option for light gaming over dealing with m.2 / PCIe shit?

I'm trying to build a pc for streaming, gaming, photo editing and multitasking purposes. But the games I play or want to play are mostly stuff like Dota 2, Starcraft 2, Doom series, Halo series etc. Not Assassin's Creed, neither I'm interested in playing at 4k ultra quality (but I would like to hit 100+ fps at relatively high res, since I'm planning this build around a 144hz monitor). So..

The thing is, from what I've read, B-die is not as much needed for Ryzen 5 2XXX series as it was in the past, due to new updates i think? Anyway, B-die is hella expensive right now where I live, and its benefits hit their breakpoint at 3000 mhz. So, my first question is: would a non B-die 8GB stick -like Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer BLT8G4D30BET4K 1x8GB- hit its full stock (3000) mhz in a Ryzen 5 2600x? would I need to overclock it manually? could that ram overclocking have any negative effects or complications? if not, wouldn't then be better to buy a (let's say) 2400/2666mhz ram to overclock it to 3000~? That said, the other closest options I have where I live are: Kingston HyperX Predator HX426C13PB3/8 (1 x 8GB | DIMM DDR4-2666), Kingston HyperX HX429C15PB3A/8 (1 x 8GB | DIMM DDR4-2933), G.Skill RipjawsV F4-2800C17S-8GVR (1 x 8GB | DIMM DDR4-2800).

Which leads me to my next question: would any configuration on any of those 8GB sticks be enough to satisfy the purposes of my build? or I will be forced to get 16GB anyways to hit my expectations? Then again, if that's the case, would it be more optimal to buy those 16GB as 2 single rank sticks of 8GB?

Doesn't make a bit of difference gaming
youtube.com/watch?v=ecCA0gx_eZk

Yea, m.2 is just a form factor and unless you’re some sort of professional they’re pretty annoying in the long run. Just get a 2.5 inch ssd.

For the games you're playing, you'll have no trouble getting high framerates with just some basic 3000 CL15 or 3200 CL16 RAM, yes.
>wouldn't then be better to buy a (let's say) 2400/2666mhz ram to overclock it to 3000~
Not really, because they generally cost around the same.
2666 CL16 @ 1.2v is generally the same RAM as 3000 CL15 @ 1.35v. It just comes with an overclock profile stock.

Also you need to use dual channel. It WILL stutter with single channel.

There has to be a catch right?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132855R&cm_re=Z170-_-13-132-855R-_-Product

Gonna do a fresh build soon now that the nvidia 20 series is out. Haven't done this in ~5-6 years or so, anyone wanna make some part recommendations? Was probably going to go with the 2080 and the new 9700k CPU once it comes out.

>Budget
Probably maxing out at about $2,000 USD. I want this one to last a while so I'm going for quality. I could stretch the budget a bit more but obviously cheaper is better, if possible.

>Uses
Gaming. Want to be able to play just about everything maxed out at 60+ fps while having netflix/VLC/whatever else on a second screen (1080p). Cyberpunk 2077 and Total War Warhammer II/III are probably among the more demanding things I'll play. I like strategy games/things that are pretty CPU heavy, so I'm really looking forward to the new i9.

>Monitor
1440p 21:9 LG Ultrawide (already have this) for the main monitor, and a 1080p secondary monitor for multitasking.

Attached: maxresdefault.jpg (1280x720, 277K)

>Z170
There's your catch. Don't know how you missed that.

nice blog

Do you guys think it would be a good idea to wait for the 20 series to launch before picking up a 1080TI? I assume the previous cards will drop in price once they do launch.

Whats the issue with the z170?

20 series already launched.
Cheapest 1080Ti prices were after the announcement. Since reviews came out and the 20 series was super disappointing, 1080Ti prices went right back up.
How are you unable to google and see that 20 series has launched, anyway?

Best CPU it can support is the 7700k. Hardly even a midrange CPU with all the security issues gimping performance.

its old and shit, buy amd. it's peace of mind knowing amd doesn't have as many security flaws as intel

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137091

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820331049

Just pressed the trigger. How fucked am i?
Been out of the game for a while.

>1050ti
>Teamgroup

Attached: 1538349552870.gif (448x344, 1.6M)

It fit my budget, I'm upgrading from a gtx 660 thats over heating a lot. I like its 75 watt TDP.
The team group was on sale and has decent reviews.

Weird, I did look and didn't see anything about it releasing. Guess I didn't look hard enough. I guess I should just bite the bullet and buy one now then.

You could have gotten a 50% more powerful GPU for $25 more.
You couldn't have possibly fucked up any worse.

Better get 2.

Will RAM get cheaper on Black Friday, specifically B-Die? And does the 2600X have any power saving benefits with XFR vs a manual OC on the 2600?

And whats that?

Not that user but
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125964&ignorebbr=1
On sale for $199 right now.

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>$2000 budget
>isn't building a server with 100gb+ RAM and room for at least two graphics cards for streaming games both in house and on the go
NGMI

Meant *$179, but yeah. It's your money so whatever.

Shiiiet trying to see if i can fix it, hasn't shipped yet.

Never mind. Already packaged, can't make changes. I should have done more research, its been years since I was into building or upgrading. eh oh well. I will hold onto it for a year or two. This is a temporary thing anyways. I plan on doing a full build down the line. I have a decent paying job now.

I don't understand how people fuck up and buy 1050tis at these prices, yet they do.

Given the garbage he wants to buy, $2000 isn't going to get him much
$600 for i9-9900k
$1300 for 2080Ti
~$200 for motherboard
NEGATIVE ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS left over for case, storage, RAM, PSU, etc.

He'll get a loan for it though because incels and nvidiots love cucking themselves like that, though.

i didnt say TI, i said 2080

Why does no one here ever seem to spend over $2000? Is it just a waste at that point?

When I looked up sub 200 dollar cards 90% of the blog bullshit lists them and nothing else, i saw no mention of the rx 580.

Building a 3d modeling/animation/software rendering rig. Haven't built a machine in 4 years so I am going off one of the completed thread ripper builds. Swapped out the 1080ti for a Vega64 card as my work is using more OpenCl than Cuda.

pcpartpicker.com/list/HJc8zY
Not sure what the thought process was originally behind the drive configuration, maybe you guys can give me some input.

should i go with mATX or mITX for my next build? i only use 1 gpu, no hard drives (1 max) and ssds

Is there a mini atx case that is big enough for a 240mm radiator?

Because 580s were $600 cards until just recently

all of them. mini itx is another story.

Because you can spend $4000 and only get around a 50% increase in gaming over a $1250 build.

I have plenty of money and I'd be happy to spend $1300 on a GPU if it were actually twice as powerful as a $600 more. I'm not paying $1300 for a 20-30% increase over a $550 GPU.

You could have searched pcpp by $150-$200 range prices and you'd have seen RX570 and RX580.
RX570 is like 45-65% above a 1050ti and RX580 is about 55-80% above for less than 30% more money.

Ok so $800 for a 2080 right? +$600+$200. That's $400 left over for PSU, case, storage, RAM.

I'd get a 280mm AIO instead of 360MM. Less larger fans is quieter than more small fans.
You can also fit a 280MM radiator into a smaller case. The Bequiet 700 can fit 280mm to the front.
You could also consider looking for a case where supports a 200mm or larger radiator with a single large fan.
I wouldn't get the NVMe. I'd get 480 Gb Optane 905p and then get a regular 2Tb SATA SSD or two. StoreMi for one (you will need the $60 license from enmotus to use a >256 fast drive), and something like a Micron 1100 for the other for less often used "cold" storage.

Though I'm actually not sure if Optane 900p/905p works with StoreMi. It SHOULD. The 800p worked. I haven't seen anyone test with the 900p.

I'd also get a better model of Vega64 unless you plan on doing a hybrid liquid cooling mod for that...

Almost all of mATX case fit 240mm. Some even fit 280mm.

Up to you. Hell even for mITX, technically you can use a splitter to gain an extra PCIe slot if you can somehow fit it in your case.
Like there are those GPU mounts which screw to 120mm fan mounts to fit dual GPU in a lot of mATX cases. Or just general jury rigging.

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>I'd also get a better model of Vega64 unless you plan on doing a hybrid liquid cooling mod for that...

Thanks for the feedback, which model of Vega would you recommend?

Whats the best Mini Atx Tower? which would you recommend?

Nitro+ or Red Devil. Don't think there is a Pulse or Red Dragon for Vega64.
The Nitro+ Vega 64 was actually on sale for only $460 last week.

idk probably some silverstone shit. Or some Jonsbo case.
I don't use AIOs so don't know. I use a Silverstone FT-03 which has poor rad support.

gaymerfag

i like the phanteks enthoo evolv, currently got that and it's quite nice and roomy. a bit on the big side (its more like small atx size) but nice overall.

I'm about to switch from R9 280 to RX 580.
Will AMD drivers detect the switch and smooth itself out by itself or do I have to reinstall that shit.

What do I doooooooooooooooooooo

Attached: jd2AeBP.png (488x433, 17K)

pcpartpicker.com/list/t4VkzY
Give me some feedback on this build folks. I plan on using it for gaming as well as programming.

So this is my first build and nothing works.

ATX power connected, cpu power connected. cpu fan connected. Compatible RAM in the right slots.

When I turn on the psu, the motherboard lights turn on. When I press the power button, nothing works. Not even the case fans or cpu fans. Still, only the led on the motherboard works.No other reaction whatsoever.

Ack, old link. I mean this build
pcpartpicker.com/list/VgD9yX

Did you connect all of the front panel connectors?

I'd really clean install drivers. The Radeon driver installer has the option right there... they've made it really easy lately.

Buy a new SSD.

Don't get the 212. It's pretty loud. A Cryorig H7 or Bequiet Pure Rock is only around $10 more, generally, for a far far better cooler.
Wouldn't bother getting a 1TB HDD. Why not just increase SSD to 1TB..?
>PNY GPU
>$460 for a TN
i dunno man

yup

Hey guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle right now on deciding which mobo to buy.

One is an b450 from a trusted retailer that can get it sent to me in a few days

And the other is from some rinky dink site that sells an x470 for essentially $10 more, but unsure if it is secure for my payment and could probably take longer to ship.

Which would you prefer? I also heard the difference between b450 boards and x470 is sli support or something.

Take out the RAM. Seat the RAM in whichever your motherboard manual says is the first slot.
Try to turn it on.
If that doesn't work ,try the other stick in that slot and then try to turn it on.
If that doesn't work, put a stick in the 3rd slot you'd fill (ie instead of a1+a2 being the usual dual channel set up, put it in b1)
These things can force the board to reset configuration.
When it DOES boot, turn it off and put the RAM into the slots it recommends.

If that doesn't work, maybe case switch is broke? Use a screwdriver head or paperclip to complete the circuit instead.

seat a single RAM DIMM* for that first line. Should be implied by only filling the first slot, but I didn't write that very clearly.

Which B450 and which X470? Chipset doesn't matter so much as the quality of the board itself.
But yes B450 is much much closer to X470 than b360 is to Z370 to the point that there is little point to get X470.

Looking at pcpartpicker, 2666MHz RAM is every bit as expensive as 3200MHz. Why?

what controller is best for pc gaymen? Xbone or Dualshock 4?

right now i have x79 . with 3930k clocked to 4.5 ghz with 1080ti , i am maybe thinking upgrading to 9900k. do you guys think its worthy upgrade ?

Xbone no competition

>why is there this thing that was explained earlier in this thread that only has 50 posts

Na. Not enough hardware security fixes on the 9900k. Way behind AMD still. Worse perf/watt. Will require a new board for 10nm when they finally come in 2020. Also it costs twice as much as the 2700X.

>Use a screwdriver head or paperclip to complete the circuit instead
I did, no results.
>RAM DIMM
I tried it with only one, with the other one, with both, rearranged. Nothing.

Lights will turn on but nothing else happens.

ryzen 2nd gen only works on x370 with an updated bios, which it's supposedly updated by the previous owner of the mobo. I wonder if I got scammed. But if this would be the case, I think the case, psu, cpu fans would at least turn on and try to boot, which isn't the case.

Asus strix b450-f and asrock x470 master sli.

I'm leaning towards the x470 as I'd like to try overclocking with a 2600, flare x, and rx580.

But it will be the first time I it from some non-mainstream site in my country.

Also I read that the asus has heating issues with the heatsinks and vrm

daily reminder

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k thanks , i think i am fine with 3730k for now . i wait and see next amd/zen2 release to see if its time to upgrade

From what Ive heard the 212x is rather quiet. Also that PNY seems to be getting good reviews all around.

what's the best value 1070 Ti model?

Why such an insane bottleneck?

Save the $10 and get the b450-f strix. Just remove the plastic i/o shroud and its VRM is fine.

No 1070Ti is good value since you get limited to shitty poor value monitors.

Not nearly as quiet as the H7 and Pure Rock.

>No 1070Ti is good value since
I suppose you're going to shill me the Vega 56 then? Which model do you suggest? I've never built before, so I'm intimidated by the idea of undervolting and whatever else I need to do to make it good

good multi-thread optimization by the devs

General rule of thumb, if you intend to crossfire or sli get the X470. If not get the B450 (and even then they tend to have the capability of doing that).

cause only 6 threads on a game that wants more.

Lots of console games are just made to run around 30fps on a ~2GHz 8c/8t console CPU. It's no wonder why many games now days will barely maintain 60+ on a decent 4c/8t or 6c/6t CPU and run shit on only 4 threads while fighting with other processes on your computer for CPU time.

Pulse or Red Dragon. Whichever is cheapest.
Undervolting is not difficult. Watch a youtube video on it or something.

Would you need to undervolt AND overclock to make it match a 1070 Ti?
And is there a lottery element to it with regard to final performance?
Do either of your suggested models have the ability to become Vega 64's?

Cool I'll do that, didn't realize is be able to remove the shroud.

Plus I could use the extra bit of money towards cooling

So should I wait for AMD's new mid range cards or accept my fate and purchase an RX 580?

There's apperantly coming a Polaris refresh in the next days/weeks so I'd wait a bit if only to see a price drop for the RX 500 cards since I doubt the refresh is going to be much of a game changer. That said, I'd probably pull the trigger on the RX 580 if it's a good deal (~$200 for the 8gb version).

1070 for 380 bucks, worth?

HOLY SHIT, IT WORKS

I took everything out and while taking off the cpu cooler, the cpu came right off. No bent pins, luckily, but I think I must've put too much thermal paste and pushed the cpu into the socket while putting the fan and this is a board thar doen't have that external protection to keep the cpu, it just fits there and holds it together

If you can find a sale on an RX580, it'll surely be better value than launch prices of the RX670/RX680.
Like if you see Nitro or Red Devil at $225 again, easily worth grabbing. They may have already hit their lowest price, though.

>is it worth $380 for a 1070 when I can get a 20% more powerful card which supports Freesync for $380-$405
>is it worth $380 for a card which is only 40% more powerful than a $225 card.
What a question. You're really fucking up if you can't answer it yourself by simply looking at how the performance compares to similar priced alternatives.

Weird. But unplugging and replugging everything is often a thing that works.

sorry user, I'm a brainlet that's just recently started getting into this uwu

Would you guys say I should get a used R7 360 or a used RX 550; the latter is generally more expensive where I'm at.

Is going from a 6700 to a 2700x a good upgrade?

I hate these threads they don't belong in Jow Forums they belong in /v/. A coder doesnt use this shit.

R7 265

As long as you have fast RAM, yes.

user, I'm looking to build a PC to be able to play DMC5 on the release day.
When would be the sweet spot to save as much as I can?
Black Friday? New Year holidays? Somewhere in February - as close to the release date as possible?

QUESTION.

What about Intel CPU security flaws?
Is it a reason to not buy their CPU?
What about performance and their patches?
Pls kotaeru

Thanks user. But between the two GPUs which one would you get?

Pretty sure the 360 is faster than the 550.
RX550 is GTX 1030 level. It's worse than than the iGPU in the 2400G.

Yes it's a reason not to.

Generally not much of sales on Black Friday for PC components. Might be some on SSDs. Maybe a monitor you don't actually want. Maybe some bad CPU+motherboard combo you also don't want.
Cheapest way to build is to buy parts one as a time as they're on sale.

>Yes it's a reason not to.
how big of a reason, can you elaborate?

Damn I was hoping it would get here by Friday so I could play with my new GPU this weekend but it's going to be here Wednesday. Now what am I supposed to do?

Attached: wow hes fast.png (459x28, 5K)

Hey guys, I'm switching from my old AMD chipset mobo to an Intel one, since I'm lazy as fuck do I really have to format the Windows drive and do a clean install or can I get away with uninstalling old drivers and install the new ones?

>It's no wonder why many games now days will barely maintain 60+ on a decent 4c/8t
Okay, you can stop with those memes.
Games that actually do this can be counted on 1 hand.
That console explanation makes no sense because at least 3 of those threads are dedicated to non gaming functions at all time.

You need vega with samsung hbm to flash it to 64 bios. Since vega is mostly memory limited, memory overclock is where you gain the most performance. Without flashing it to 64 bios you cant get more than 1.25v on memory so you're limited with overclocking (for me its 950mhz)

Attached: 111.png (1258x902, 94K)

Will a 6700 bottleneck a 2080ti for 100fps UW 1440p gaming?

clean install

CPU: Intel Core i7 8700K 44980JPY
CPU Fan: Noctua NH-D15 10880JPY
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z370-A 21991JPY
Memory: Corsair CMK16GX4M2A2666C16 [DDR4 PC4-21300 8GB 2 plates] 18579JPY
GPU: Gigabyte 1080 ti 82979JPY
SSD: 960 EVO M.2 MZ-V6E500B/IT 500GB ??? 17258JPY
HDD: Can wait.
BD-Rom: No idea
Display: Acer KG271UAbmiipx 144hz 1440p 44365JPY
Audio: Sennheiser HD598 14980JPY
Keyboard: N-key rollover mechanical keyboard 6767JPY
Mouse: something good for scoring no-scopes 7823JPY
Chassis: Corsair Crystal 460X ??? 14769JPY
Water cooling: sell a kidney to achieve MLP theme from this one NOT IN THIS FUCKING LIFE


user, how does this look like? Should I go for Ryzen 7 2700X instead? It'll cost ~8k, but UserBenchmark shows a comparable loss in performance.
Should I get this MB, or are there cheaper options available (without losing slots and functionality, I mean)?
How will MB price change on the average if I go for Ryzen instead?
Regarding Ryzen, I remember AMD stock coolers being quite good. Can I just use the stock fan from the Box CPU?
Is there some sort of all be all graphics card manufacturer? Gigabyte simply has the cheapest offer here.
Are there any good ATX cases that are cheap?
Are there better 144hz 1440p 1ms monitor options?

Thanks, is it always obvious when a given model includes Samsung RAM?
After undervolting, overclocking, and 64 bios flashing, does it still consume much more power than a stock 1070 Ti?

that feel when intels conference is so bad youre forced to buy a 2700x

Na, there are some other Vega56 which can flash to a different Vega64 BIOS than the reference one. Some Vega64 have Hynix memory.
I don't have a a list though.

>Do either of your suggested models have the ability to become Vega 64's?
You can flash the Vega 56 Pulse to the Vega 64 Nitro. Yep.
techpowerup.com/vgabios/197472/sapphire-rxvega64-8176-171205
It appears the Red Dragon can also flash to the Nitro+ Vega 64.
Just makes sure you flash over the right BIOS. You have a BIOS switch on the card.
No. Many cards can have either with no difference in model number or anything. But that user is wrong, anyway. There is no easy answer to it, though. You just have to hope, try, and see.
They started making Vega56 with Hynix, yet it gets reported as Samsung because the BIOS says Samsung. It's the BIOS itself which tells CPU-Z what the memory is. Hynix V56 with V64 BIOS flash will say Samsung HBM.
That only Samsung HBM2 V56 can flash to Vega64 is a misconception. However... what you do need is a Vega56 design which is close enough to a 64 one that the 64 BIOS can't tell a difference (or doesn't care) which seems to be the case for the Nitro+ 64 BIOS and those nano PCB cards (which Red Dragon and Pulse have).
There are also people with nano pcb and samsung hbm who couldn't get the nitro+ 64 BIOS flashed on because they're doing something wrong.

Wish I knew this earlier too... main thing that prevented me from getting a Vega56 was thinking I needed Samsung memory which was a gamble.

Maybe very rarely. Not often enough or enough of a bottleneck to be a concern.

>shitty gigabyte board
>1070Ti and nonsync monitor when you can get a nice IPS for $120 more
>$78 for 500Gb TLC NAND when you can get 3D MLC or 3D SLC for cheaper

Of course you should get Ryzen instead. Why buy an insecure processor with broken knockoff SMT when you can get a secure one with actual working and proper SMT?

I need a PC to browse Jow Forums, watch youtube and porne. I am too autistic to game so they're off.
pcpartpicker.com/list/KjWgq4
Am I doing it right?
I pick that CPU/mobo tactically since when I9 CPUs become dirt cheap (in like 10-15 years) I can rock one.

2200G instead.
Buy a ~$70 2800 RAM kit instead.
Cheaper SSD like the Silicon Power S55.

You don't need ram that fast, get a cheaper case.

Why recommend a vega 56?
And is that decision based on uv the card or just stock?