/ag/ Audio General. Horny edition

Hornlets BTFO

-post made by JBL squad

Sup Jow Forums

today on review list. Monitor Audio Bronze 2.

First impression is a bit underwhelming.

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do they still use different capacitors lmao

Recommend me some floorstanding kits or DIY plans using easily obtainable drivers

18mm mdf wood, choose cabinetsize that looks adequate to driver size.

get rope fasteners and woodglue and a saw with dismountable thin blade.

also a drill, a ruler and a circle drawer. and a stable workbench if possible.

>rope fasteners

Wood Working Clamps*

there are also some that work like flat rope bands which are easier to apply universal force

for poor people who see 5.1 on their 5$ blurays and think they need it.

There's a lot more to building a loudspeaker if you want some kind of god result.
Resellers of drivers tend to have kits for sale, other than that there's a few sites on the net with building plans. You can start by checking: troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm out

why? listen to what you want. looks like an efficient speaker, might be good for electronic.

based reviewbro

Yeah, it's probably really good. But it looks too classy for electronic music to feel appropriate.

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This guy is a retard.

I know 1" domes can measure well, but *insert a bunch of audiophool ramblings*

He did nothing to explain why horn speakers are better other than say how much he likes them. I mean for fuck's sake, he could have at least talked about directivity control, or time alignment.

yea and there are a 1000 suggestion on google what size is good for certain speaker designs.
yeah.
So initial impression is. honky peak at 14khz. hints of female words that have a K sound are really piercing and unwanted.

review:

pastebin.com/vm64tFbF

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>yea and there are a 1000 suggestion on google what size is good for certain speaker designs
And that's only like 1% of building a speaker.

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yeah and he wants to build a speaker with 1% of potential performance with cheap drivers he trashed out somewhere. you can read everything up you know.

dampening improves soundquality, passive radiators improve sound quality, bass ports improve soundquality, crossovers with certain capacitors improve soundquality but all in all why do i even tell you this. also why the fuck you keep quoting me on something nobody has a clue on this board, we're just a bunch of consumer fags

Oh look it's another "old japanese man with size issues and no life or gf finds compensation in reposting the same tired P.A. speaker for the hearing-impaired over and over with autistic perseveration until the same ten samefagging people grow tired of their own repetition causing the thread to die" thread.

>also why the fuck you keep quoting me on something nobody has a clue on this board, we're just a bunch of consumer fags
The guy who built his own PMC-clones probably knows a thing or two, and I've designed and built my own speakers many years ago.

Depends what kind of electronic you are listening too. A nice John Digweed set would be wonderful on that.

>He did nothing to explain why horn speakers are better other than say how much he likes them. I mean for fuck's sake, he could have at least talked about directivity control, or time alignment.
Did you miss the part about distortion?
But Angerfist would feel out of place :)

I went dumpster diving a few days back and managed to pull out

2x Sony SS-TS74 speakers
1x Sony SS-WS74 sub-woofer
quick specs: servicemanuals.us/sony/audio/ss-ct72-ss-ts73-ss-ts74-ss-ws72-ss-ws74-ss-ws75.html
They seem to be part of this htib DAV-HDX500
sony.com/electronics/support/home-theater-dvd-home-theater-systems/dav-hdx500

1x Sony STR-DH100 receiver
sony.com/electronics/support/audio-components-receivers-amplifiers/str-dh100

1x Yamaha RX-V365 receiver
usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/av_receivers_amps/rx-v365/specs.html

The speakers are marked as 3 ohms, though from some reading around forums, it seems they're actual 4.5ohms, not that it helps much. The sub-woofer is labeled 1.5ohms, but I didn't find any "real" numbers. Despite these lower impedance ratings, can I hook them up to the amps/receivers or will they blow? The sony doesn't support a sub-woofer, so in that case, obviously, I'm asking only if the Yamaha can power the subwoofer.

Also, which one is better for audio? I assume the newer Yamaha, but I'm not really knowledgeable here, and I can't find any particularly useful reviews. It does seem to have a wider freq.resp. and a slightly better snr specified.

Why do I hear amp hiss on my new LS50s when I didn't on my Q100s?

Phones and laptops nowadays use really mediocre DACs, so I'm in the market for a new one that's plug and play with Linux. I've been out of the game for a while, does FiiO still offer relatively decent bang for your buck?

Overcooked spaghetti

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I don't know much about dac compatibility, but Linux supports USB-audio 1.1 and 2.0 if I'm not mistaken and should work with most dacs if I'm not mistaken.
Also, wonder why Microsoft haven't implemented USB-audio 2.0 in Windows, having to run custom drivers kind of suck

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They have in one of the later versions of Windows 10

windows have generic wasapi usb class 2 audio driver.
you don’t need to install anything

Nice, they didn't back in my day *sips*

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It depends on who writes the driver.

How do you search for constant directivity speakers? Is there any CD speakers for less than 500€?

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>high sensitivity
91db isn't especially sensitive
>low price
? $6500/pair for the ones in the middle

The driver's spatial responses smoothly blend into each other, which is just the general mark of a great loudspeaker. Constant directivity may be taken to mean a speaker that limits radiation off-angle evenly.
>search for constant directivity speakers
Look at loudspeaker measurements. See how it behaves off angle.
There are many, many speakers on the market. JBL Pro 3 series, KEF Q bookshelves, the entry Mackie and Yamaha monitors are just a few. Used market will open even more options.

Thanks for the info. So what should i do if some of the speakers i'm looking at don't have any measurements of that kind? Should i just avoid them?
Also just for curiosity, i get that you want CD speakers if your room has a lot of reflective surfaces, but does it still matter if you are using a well treated or anechoic room? Does it become irrelevant in that case for a single listening position?

Reminder that audiophile is literally the most pathetic hobby there is, you guys are listening to "equipments" not music.

Lol wtf

Buying a product you know little about would be a crapshoot.
It would be hard to tell if they were good. Some speakers can be eliminated just by looking at them and seeing the crossover points, but this doesn't mean you can find out the good ones.
It can be hard to find measurements of speakers at all, anechoic or even in-room, so going by measurements alone will limit the selection to choose from.

>does it still matter if you are using a well treated or anechoic room
The effective sweet spot can be made larger. Well treated rooms will still send sound back to you, but they do this evenly over the spectrum, rather than a typical lopsided response.

because the ls50 have slightly emphasized highs, you should have gone with r300 in all seriousness

>daily reminder that game enthusiasts is literally the most pathetic hobby there is, you guys are looking to "graphics" not games

so yeah what's wrong with that

sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy/classix2-5

Is FLAC or AFLAC the best audio format? Where can I get music in that?

I played some metallica I had back from my torrent days. It was a whole album in one track and it was 1.5gigs. Insane. But the sound quality was night and day better than my MP3 tracks of the same songs. I can't go back.

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WAV or FLAC are generally considered the best. They are identical, but FLAC is compressed while still being lossless quality

how do these sound?

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jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/6200ser.pdf

Nobody here has any idea. Measure its crossover distortion, humans are incredibly sensitive to even trace amounts.

Couple questions.
One: I have a chance to buy 3 sets (6 drivers total) of Goto compression driven horn speakers for $5k.
Should I go for it?

2nd question: If I'm building a speaker, do I add the max driver input wattages together to determine what the max input for the whole speaker should be?
If I have a 5 watt max tweeter, a 5 watt max woofer and a 15 watt max sub in one speaker, should my max input be 25 watts or 5 watts or what?

cheap watts
springair.de/de/jbl-urei-6290/h55682

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Seeing a spectrogram of the songs is a good indicator of how good they are qualitywise
Audacity has that kind of function

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troelsgravesen.dk/SP95.htm

>that 128kbps
and some people claim to not hear a difference

you are really stupid to judge audibility of difference by looking at pictures

What's the opinion on high end compression drivers?

and why would that be, kind sir?

>cheap watts
Inukes deliver way more for a fraction of the price.

Because how your brain perceives what your eyes see and how your brain perceives what your ears hear are completely fucking different

Hod you you guys deal with this shit?

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coil up the slack in the wires with Velcro cable ties.

The proof that wires make a difference

youtube.com/watch?v=ZyWt3kANA3Q

zipties on protoboards is actually a really cool idea.

Get cables in the right length
Yeah, lets make coils to increase those magnetic fields.

More proof that there's a difference between cables. Only a uneducated and ignorant fool will deny it.
youtu.be/9ckp5CYBBjE

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Whats the cheapest active crossover I can get?

And here we have someone who actually knows what he's talking about (so I forgive his web design)

roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

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Can we from those two videos conclude that shielding and a good connection are the most important aspects of a cable?

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Hmmmm?
theaudiophileman.com/furutech-booster-signals-cables-review/

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Daily reminder of the importance of acoustics and why you absolutely can't compare things you've heard in different stores.
Audio demo at 6:22
youtu.be/dB8H0HFMylo

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Thank god we have people like Ethan

Nah, just another sour fag that can't afford real audio ;)

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It is microphone cable, not speaker cable.

There's a difference between speaker wires as well. And just the fact that we differentiate interconnects from speaker wire is a good proof that cables are not the same.

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Swung by a store a few days ago.
Seeing "Despacito" come out of one of those polished cabinets gives me pause.
Some of the speakers on the floor had some lousy acoustics. They put a cabinet in *front* of one of the towers in a confined space. There was the usual reverberant buildup near the walls, but the cabinet! I started lying on the cabinet trying to get into the sweet spot, looking for all the world like a beached swimmer.

Issues in mating them to the horn, and the horn itself, but that goes for any driver. More useful bandwidth in the audio frequencies and more efficient. It is difficult to design a horn that is free of resonances with wide-angle coverage to match it over a large frequency range.

You keep drinking that koolaid

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Looks like someone put his cables in garden hoses

look at the frequency range, degenerate

>that feeling when you realize you will never reach the level of Moriyama-san

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and antigrav units...

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The question is not "if there is a difference" but "if you care about such a difference" or "would this money put elsewhere give you more difference than that". Of course there is measured difference between wires. There is no doubt about that. But this question does not matter.

Who's that? His room probably sounds like shit.
Well yes, a cable has to be impractically thick to have enough skin-effect for an audible roll-off.
In that example they are comparing 3 cables with the same geometry but different thicknesses of the conductors. Would have been more interesting if they compared different geometries, like it's a known fact that running the + and - conductors close to each other lowers the inductance of the cable.

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Why they just don't use superconductor cables? I mean seriously, if you are spending money on some bullshit, at least spend them on the most expensive and exotic kind.

Yeah, that's a fair question. Getting a good quality studio-grade cable is cheap enough that I think that nobody should skip out on it.
Like your typical star-quad interconnects and star-quad 2.5mm speaker wires will be good enough and doesn't cost more than $5-10 per meter.
But if we are talking about hundreds of dollars I think it's better spent on acoustics. High-end cables are just snake oil, but cables with good design are not.

I've seen liquid nitrogen being used to cool down speaker cables.

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So are you saying that two +- wires that are placed infinitely away from each other will have infinite capacity? Can you provide a basis for this "fact"?

>Who's that? His room probably sounds like shit.
youtube.com/watch?v=Egr2BAdXZA4

Liquid nitrogen is cheap. Go for liquid helium, its expensive and hard to keep.

>So are you saying that two +- wires that are placed infinitely away from each other will have infinite capacity?
No
>Can you provide a basis for this "fact"?
Too lazy to google it, read about it years ago and I don't remember where. But if I remember correctly it's the reason why we twist cables to increase the shielding.

I went through all my burned CDs to see if there was anything worth saving before recycling them all. I found MP3 from the late 1990s and early 2000s which were mostly 128k and at best 192k. All of it sounded horrible, it was all absolute garbage. My "stereo" system was a computer with PC speakers connected to it and some early MP3 player with 128 MB memory. I remember it as being "fine" back then but it sure wasn't on my current hifi system. The horrible sound quality was very apparent and obvious and noticeable.

Being a famous weird Japanese dude doens't make your acoustics good.

Would be fun to compare 128kbit/s between an old encoder and a updated one to see if there's been any progress with compression.

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Bump

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>Do you think that 1" is enough
You need at least 7", small boy.