/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General
Masterswitch edition

>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp
>Use the buyer's template
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Group Buys
Deskthority, Geekhack, Massdrop
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net/wiki/Main_Page

Last Clack

Attached: vints.jpg (1200x800, 129K)

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/AODmx1scIBY?t=829
builder-docs.swillkb.com/features/#switch-type
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

how do you guys handle having no volume buttons on your keebs?

why on earth do you need one? Also because no good keyboards come with them

Since almost all our keebs are reprogramable. We use the FN key for a lot of thing. FN+1,2,3... = F1,F2,F3,...

Same work for Media key. I personally use FN + T,Y,U for back, play/pause and next.
My volume is set on FN+< FN+>

analog volume control is superior

I don't use a digital volume control because my amp has a volume pot, and I'd rather use that than fuck up bitperfect playback.

what are these holes in the PCB?

Attached: 545747864786784564567.png (288x217, 91K)

Likely just vias for the trace to go to the other side of the PCB.

I had a switch stop working and had to replace it with a shitty desoldering pump that barely worked. Board works fine but there some residue (a little solder and some flux) near one of those holes. Any suggestions on cleaning it up or if I should just leave it?

If it's noclean flux then you shouldn't have to bother. You could just use a DMM to check if something is shorting due to the flux. If you really wanna be proper about it you could use some isopropyl to clean up the flux.

It's rosin. And nothing shorting, eveything's functioning fine. I appreciate the advice, maybe I'll clean it with some isopropyl just to be safe.

Why there isnt any custom keycap set for Model M outside Unicomp?

Too small of a userbase to make it worth it really.

>falling for mechanical keyboard shit
nope

AutoHotkey. also, I probably fucked up here /mkg/. I bought a GMMK and put some Cherry MX tactile greys in them. they are great, but I didn't realize that buckling springs are about as tactile and can be silenced. I'm approaching the point where I am thinking about lubing all the switches. but is it worth the effort vs. just buying a Unicomp and flossing it?

you could put sorbothane in the case

Anyone use MT3 profile? Is it comfy?

Yes. Certainly better than SA profile imo.

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what tactile switch do i get off MX Browns are shit, I'm buying my first mkg and ordering from aus

Congrats, you're not old enough to have grown up using a mech when you were a kid. Pic related, it's what you look like when you insist that your mushy rubber domes are better that the clicky master race.

Attached: kool kid.jpg (866x1300, 142K)

Where's the best place to order a fully custom set of keycaps that'll last? It's for a nav-clusterless layout that I'm working on

hadn't heard of this stuff before. thanks for the suggestion!

Any recommendations for a seamless pbt keycap set? Pretty much every search I do turns up chink shit and I don't trust that.

No problem, I've never done it myself but I've read you can do it with any nonconductive sound dampening material.

enjoyPBT makes good quality caps

B R O W N

>typing on Cherry

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>make 40% board
>various types of switches including gat blacks
>only 40-50 bucks
nice
>no way to program it and default layout is fucked, have to hit space with left
what
the
fuck
is wrong with chinks. fucking "qisan"

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Hey guys I got a mechanical keyboard can I post here with you guys?

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What's the main alphabet on theses keycaps?
I thought they'd be Hebrew or Arabic but it doesn't seem to be the case.

Attached: 1920_1.jpg (1920x1080, 212K)

That's elven m8.

Georgian, maybe. So basically

Stop me from doing it
please

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Hi, I'm new to /mkg/ and I would like to purchase a wireless mechanical keyboard that's tenkeyless. Any recommendations?

>inb4 read OP
I looked on all the websites that recommended and found some but I don't want to dish out $150+ for a keyboard when I can buy one with comparable quality for a better price. (yes i tried to search for cheaper options on my own)

Checks out for the most part. Some of them are different but hell if I know how the language works.

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My RealForce arrived. I'm not liking the small backspace and shift. Also the lack of leds pisses me off. I thought this was supposed to be a contender for greatest mech of all time.

Attached: 20181114_142003.jpg (4032x3024, 3.57M)

ya blew it at leds

The chinks make some :^)
modelfkeyboards.com

Depends on how much you're paying. There's a guy on Etsy that will do custom dye-sub PBT keycaps.

I assume you're talking about doubleshot keycaps. If so Vortex, Ducky, and NPKC all make some

Filco is the best, all the others are trash

Well we can't fix stupid and unfortunately you seem to be showing at least 5 symptoms.

indicator leds. Capslock etc

This Magicforce 49 is my favorite keyboard ever and I love the layout.

Attached: IMG_20181031_222742875.jpg (3024x4032, 3.73M)

>buy mx red
>actually bought a sandpaper keyboard

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sell it to me
tell me why I should buy a non-programmable 40% with the spacebar being on the fucking left compared to just paying 40 bucks more for a vortex core which is programmable, comes with PBT and doesn't have a shitty case

I'm just waiting on my sexual harassment keyboard #metoo with black switches

Attached: Metoo-Mechanical-Keyboard-87-104-Anti-ghosting-Luminous-Blue-Black-Switch-Backlit-wired-Gaming-Keybo (640x640, 73K)

>Non programmable
The layout works fine ootb
>Spacebar on left
Doesn't everyone use their left thumb to hit space? Plus there's a version with a right spacebar anyway.
>Vortex core is $40
Pic related.

Attached: Screenshot_20181115-011728.png (1080x1920, 399K)

40 bucks more is what i said
it's cheaper on other sites at 90$ which is worth it just for the dye sub caps and programmability
what the fuck is the point of a keyboard that small that won't even support custom layers?

yes. its basically SA that caresses your fingy wingy tips better. it sucks on the iris thumb cluster tho, i use DSA there.

zealio

55g or variable?

why do people say topre is tactile? Doesn't that mean you should feel a bump. It just feels like a mushy membrane key

Topres are the Apple of switches, overrated mediocrity at an exclusive price

what are the best cherry profile keycaps to get for my pok3r?

Okay so what are actual good switches?

youtu.be/AODmx1scIBY?t=829

B L A C K E D

They literally are tactile.

What switches do these have ? Kailh ?
I thought about getting it but A: Those non changeable LED colors are gay and B: There's no info on the switches.

Do more expensive rgb keyboards have faster led drivers?
The one i have pulses the leds too slow.
When looking directly at the keyboard you can't see it and all is fine, but if you slide your eyes across it you get this really annoying stroboscope effect.
I wish there was a store in this shithole where i could see for myself, but there is nowhere to try it.
I will be returning my current sixty bux board because i can't stand the flicker but i don't want to buy a high end one if it has the same problem

Tell me about Romer-G. Can we trust him?

What's the cloest mechanical keyswitch equivalent of a buckiling spring?

Attached: 1520731079362.jpg (1013x1427, 217K)

Are keyboards with a volume knob a thing?

nvm, I found what I was looking for.

BOX Navy

Are acrylic plates so much more shittier than aluminium ones?

I've tried some PCB plates at the last meet-up, but am not sure about their sturdiness.
I'm using Matias switches, that are inherently plate-mounted, so that's pretty important for the build.

Should I go with white PCB/Acrylic or get a black aluminium plate?
Also, how the fuck is PCB more expensive?

Attached: levinson_cases.png (629x1012, 196K)

The build quality does make a difference, but I've not really had an issue with poor quality acrylic plates.
I'd imagine if you unmount the switches a lot the acrylic might wear down over time faster than the aluminum, but I can't imagine it would make that much of a difference, especially if it's not in a hotswap board.

Thanks.

How about the sturdiness?
I'm a bit worried that acrylic/PCB might bend more easily.
Does this matter at all when the switches are soldered?

>especially if it's not in a hotswap board.
It's not, but Matias have chattering issues, so I will definitely change 2-3 switches over a year.

The only acrylic plate I have is stable enough, doesn't really flex any more or less than the aluminum plates I've tried.
Screwing it onto the PCB will help stabilize it a lot more, too, so I wouldn't worry about bending that much.

i'm gonna buy outemu browns!

the thing with matias/alps is they require thinner plates than mx (1.2mm vs mx's 1.5mm), and there's already cracking issues with 1.5mm arcylic plates which would just be compounded by being thinner

if it's an option going for a thicker plate that ends flush with the switch base so there's no gap between plate and PCB would be best

...

Thanks. Will go acrylic then.

That's what kinda bugs me.
There is no difference between plates on the keeb.io web page.
When I ordered my planck, there were 2 specific types of plates (different cut-outs), but there they claim to be "universal".

oh yeah, if you look closely at the pictures that means that the cutouts aren't perfect rectangles. they're like a combination of the standard mx and alps footprints, fitting both but not supporting either really well

builder-docs.swillkb.com/features/#switch-type

i'm just lurking this thread. i don't even use a mechanical keyboard (yet). i have volume keys but i don't use them often. i mostly just use a script to set volume to the lowest possible level, which is like a 100th (idk maybe more like 1/10, way lower in any case) of what the keys allow.

>Least stable
God I wish olkb.com did splits.
Guess I'll have to search the net for Levinson/Let's split compatible ALPS plate.

Been using browns a while now but just want to try something different and probably going to get blues or reds. General consensus is blues are the best cherries for typing right?

Attached: 1498422503095.png (872x632, 190K)

The speculation is that they're either Outemu or essentially a clone of the same quality

Variable. I don't think this exists in uniform 45 or 55g. Not in white anyway afaik

Just got my topre realforce..

is this a fucking joke?

I paid £210 for this fucking garbage?

Why do you guys shill topre so much its literally worse than typing on my old rubber dome keyboard.

Its not like the fucking thing is silent either as the space bar is at about 200Db while they keys themselves are at about 10.

What a horrible typing experience that will be the last time I listen to you guys. Useless cretins. If something is shit just refund it don't keep using it to convince yourself it is good and also don't trick other people into buying it to feel better about your shit purchase.

Desk fedora

Attached: fedora.gif (401x353, 324K)

always do the opposite of what /mkg/ says

i bet browns are actually good and /mkg/ are just being fags

Browns are too mainstream
Everyone knows popular things are always terrible

Im going straight back to my buckling springs.

Everything else I have tried has been complete trash.

that's odd, i thought realforce boards normally had indicator LEDs in the corner of their respective caps, or is that just a Topre Leopold feature?

having used a variety of keyboard switches, i can say for sure that

1. all switches that try to create tactility by having a wavy slider barely feel tactile and are bad

and

2. browns are the worst example of this design, the bump might as well not even exist. they genuinely feel like reds that didn't pass qc

reds feel like reds that didn't pass qc

does my logitech k200 count as mechanical?

I can double that.

After I've tried many Keyboards/switches on the last meet-up, i don't consider standard MX design in any way tactile.

ALPS/Matias and BOXes are the only ones with decent tactility from the regular switches.

I type at >120wpm on blacks. Can someone please shill me browns or clears? I don't understand what difference the actuation force would make between them, but clears are much rarer so I assume they're a meme.

Neither. Get buckling springs.

That is really fucking fast and it seems like you like a high force.

>*makes millions of dollars programming on a rubberdome*

Attached: jeff dean single monitor.jpg (1200x801, 203K)

Rubber dome keyboards are fine.

>it's not the equipment, it's the person using it
I thought this was common knowledge

>Why do you guys shill topre so much
I rarely see people speaking favorably of topre these days

Dude I know how you feel. I could have gotten an actual good mechanical seeing as I paid over $200 for this realforce pos. I've used nothing but rubbber domes and was expected to be amazed by my first mechanical keyboard. I can't believe I fell for this meme. Please someone who isn't a prick recommend what switches will feel good cause topre isn't it.

Reds arw DOGSHIT for typing

trying my first mechanical ever with outemu blue

it feels like heaven god damn I'm never tipying on a membrane ever

Blues feel like a rubber dome made out of aluminum blister packaging.