Motherboard started smoking now onboard audio wont work and it fried one of my hard drives...

Motherboard started smoking now onboard audio wont work and it fried one of my hard drives. How hard would it be to fix the hard drive myself? how can i diagnose the issue with it? it has some photos which are semi important to me. thanks
oh yeah its some 1tb seagate drive i got 2 years ago.

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you're fucked, kid

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Just use your backup

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anyone know what that thing on the top left of the board is? it seems to be the only issue with the board.

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If the hard drive doesnt't work in another PC (or via a USB adapter), track down a HDD of the same exact model as the cooked one and swap out the logic board. I know this works as I've done it...

...

>using Seagate
>EVER

looks like a diode

I don't get it, just restore from your backups

Its the cpu

don't even try to replace that diode. now that it's fried you can't even measure its forward and reverse voltage so you could fuck it up even further. try what
posted, it will most likely work. If it does not, to recover the data you'll need professional magnetic equipment which you don't have, so you'll have to give shekels to service centers that do. A LOT of shekels.

That's a reverse polarity protection diode, they're placed there to avoid PSUs fucking up the entire controller PCB.
What failed here wasn't your motherboard, it was your PSU. It just so happened to take the motherboard and the drive with it. Don't buy chinkshit next time.

it seems like corsair has fucked me then. I'll see if getting a replacement board works.

Your PSU will eventually fuck that board up too. Get a replacement PSU ASAP.
And don't get it a rebrand, just get a Seasonic.

Looks like a protection diode. You can either go crawl through digikey and try to find and replace it, or you can short the diode, plug it into a new computer, and hope it works.

M8, that's a reverse polarity/overvoltage protection diode. It's connected between ground and one of the power rails. If he shorts it the entire drive PCB is going to get charred, and the SATA connector completely melted.
t. I have fixed Shitgate drives with this same issue.

drugs are bad mmkay

>seagate
are you one of those people that do exactly the opposte of what Jow Forums says?

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Very firstly, this sounds like an obvious PSU failure. Don't cheap out on a PSU, you're lucky that you didn't lose your house.
Then, if you're not up to diagnosing and repairing the actual hard drive circuit board, you can get an identical drive and move the controller board to the old drive. Or you can move the platters themselves. Or you can take the drive to an actual data recovery shop, assuming there's no illegalities on the drive.
Third, you should be taking backups.
And finally, this sounds like an obvious PSU failure. Don't cheap out on a PSU, you're lucky that you didn't lose your house.

Like their critique of Win 10 the Jow Forums critique of Seagate never moved past 2015 despite improvements. You got your data on failures from Backblaze. Guess who is doing worse in the last year from that same site? WD. Seagate improved their entire product line while WD got lazy, especially after buying HGST. HDD manufacturers always work in cycles like this but kids like you are too young to remember when HGST wasn't the best and Deathstars were a thing.

>Or you can move the platters themselves
Don't do this. Hard drives are sealed for a reason. Swap the controllers, not the disks.

Straight up it's fucked. Your not going to be able to fix it. Modern electronics have to many extremely sensitive parts that even a small static shock fro your finger can destroy it. I'd just bin it buy a new HDD and use your backup.

Just buy a new one and restore from backup.

Maybe not that many shekels. If it comes to that, OP, try these guys
gillware.com/