NON-UNIVERSAL LAPTOP CHARGERS ARE A FUCKING JOKE

>watching a film on my laptop
>laptop falls off side of couch
>charger tip is bent and absolutely munted
>replacement chargers recommended by amazon are bootlegs
>official charger from dell costs $90 + shipping
>i can just smell the rubbinghands.avi from both companies
>buy soldering kit + heatshrink tubing from local electronic store
>they have no charger tips
>use ebay to buy an 8-in-1 charger tip pack
>no option for fast shipping, not even at a premium
>wait over a month for the chinkshit to arrive
>none of the 8 fit
>spend FUCKING FOUR HOURS finding the exact size of my laptop's charger
>search ebay
>only converters are available, no tips with pins on them

Would I theoritically be able to cut this converter in half to solder the wires of the male end to my fully functioning charger in place of the old tip?

I'm almost at the point of giving up. I fucking hate OEMS. If any computer company actually cared about their customers they would make modular chargers with plug and play charger cables. It would win out on reviews too and drive up sales of the laptop itself.

On a side note: what do you guys do when your laptop charger breaks? don't tell me you run to the OEM now do you?

Attached: s-l300.jpg (300x300, 5K)

Other urls found in this thread:

verify.ul.com/
thinkwiki.org/wiki/Power_Connector
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

No, it is absolutely impossible to splice two cables together you blog posting faggot.

> what do you guys do when your laptop charger breaks?
Find a $20 chinkshit replacement you dumb cunt. Now fuck off.

/thread

Most modern laptop chargers have ID pins which allow the laptop to determine the maximum power it can draw from the charger so that the charger doesn't suffer a nuclear meltdown on your carpet.
I don't know how that would work with an adapter.
It depends on if the ID pin is connected up at the charger end or the connector end (usually they short it to ground, leave it floating or pull it to ground with different resistors, these are easy things to distinguish on the laptop end but this also means that the identification circuit (resistor) could be on the connector end).
So to answer your question: Buy a _second hand_ genuine dell supply or a 3rd party one from a trustworthy company.

>it is absolutely impossible to splice two cables together
of course i know you can put cables together, I'm asking if it would work and charge properly. I think it would but I would like to see if I am wrong. I've already waited a whole month with no results, and I need this laptop charging by the end of february and cannot afford to waste time.

>$20 chinkshit replacement
It's almost like you want your house burnt down. This is pretty much the equivalent of using the power supply that comes with your computer's case.

when you /thread you'rearen'tare self on another IP

Pгг

I feel really shit that this charger works fine but the tip is the only thing causing me to have to toss it away.
Do you know any companies that make good but cheap laptop chargers? I literally keep running into absolute shit, even at my local stores in australia a fucking first world country
also, would me trying to snip and solder this adapter cause any risk to the charger or computer?
thanks for not being a dick like the guy above you. I'm still learning things as I go. Cheers mate

>not using USB-C charging in thr year of our lord

> Do you know any companies that make good but cheap laptop chargers?
I just told you what to buy.
>would me trying to snip and solder this adapter cause any risk to the charger or computer?
I just told you the risks.
> thanks for not being a dick like the guy above you.
From all appearances he was on the money.

>Do you know any companies that make good but cheap laptop chargers? I literally keep running into absolute shit, even at my local stores in Australia a fucking first world country
I've only had to buy chargers for my thinkpad so I'm not sure.
Any website with product reviews will at least give you an idea if people had major problems with the device.
When I bought a cheap thinkpad supply on ebay the thing literally melted itself. I got a refund for it. (But despite me complaining twice, the idiots gave me a really smudged posting label so the thing never got to them despite being accepted by royal mail so who knows.)
Another one I remember someone I know having with their thinkpad - the cable had some internal breakage near the connector after a year of use.
Look for something which isn't too much bigger than the original (they will all be bigger because these 3rd party companies don't have the money to spend developing the most compact thing which still passes all safety checks and develops the same amount of power without melting), rated for the right power, good reviews by people who can actually write English, good strain relief on both ends.
Try finding something which claims to be UL listed etc, then check that all the claims are true when you see it.

Samefag.

USB 3.1 Type C solves this

I should also say: UL listed or something equivalent. Do your research on this aspect, obviously, but if a company bothers to get some certifications they're probably not out to make cheap chinese garbage even if they make devices IN china.

OP here, I get it. You have a VPN. Very cool, congratulations!

(how about you fuck off now old mate?)

seeya!

Let me just go run out and buy a USB-C laptop right now! it's not like im trying to save money repairing the charger for my old one instead of buying a replacement

In all seriousness though, my next laptop will be USB C.

If something says it is UL listed, is there any way that I can cross-reference their claim with UL themselves? Their site isn't giving me much of a direction, and if theres no cross-reference that means the certification cannot be checked for legitimacy. Just like how the amazon chargers say official dell but are visually 1:1 lookalikes.

I just noticed this question:
>also, would me trying to snip and solder this adapter cause any risk to the charger or computer?
If the ID pin is not wired up correctly then as I said in my original response the laptop might draw more power than the supply can supply or less power.
If it draws too much power then this will likely damage the adapter.
If it doesn't draw enough power then the laptop might throttle, but this won't cause any damage to anything.
To figure out what might happen you will have to a: figure out if the connector even has an ID pin in the first place.
b: figure out what the different configurations mean, and c: figure out what this means in your situation.
It's also possible that dell doesn't sell multiple-power-ratings for each type of connector but I wouldn't wager on this if you don't want to risk the PSU dying (and I guess if things went badly wrong the PSU dying could kill the laptop but I imagine there's some failsafes against this).
I found this: verify.ul.com/
Also, I googled the UL number on my IP phone and found this:
productspec.ul.com/search.php?type=listing&listing=NWGQ&pagenum=23
Unfortunately not a direct link but if you then manually search the number I do find my device listed under E200657.
Not sure what the policy is in your country but in the UK if you buy something which claims to be genuine and is not, you will have no trouble getting refunded.

So that centre pin is not ground, but the ID pin? fuckers. So basically i just need to make sure all 3 cables are connected to the other end. The charger converter i was looking at seems to have a centre pin but i will look for one that definitely has it. Basically is it just a signal along the third wire sent from the adapter to the computer? surely.

Like I explained in one of the other ports, the implementation can vary but from my experience of thinkpad chargers the centre pin is grounded, pulled down via a resistor or left unconnected and these different configurations identify different chargers. If the cable has 3 wires and your adapter has 3 wires when you cut it then you just need to match up the wires.
Look at your broken connector to determine which wire was connected to where.

Yes cock sniff, the center pin is an ID pin, leaving a grand total of one remaining line to pass power through. God you ausfags are cancer. Why the fuck are you even on Jow Forums?

just buy a fucking chinkshit charger like you were told two hours ago. fucks sake user. its not rocket surgery.

I just want to say that every time I plug in my non-OEM thinkpad psu into the wall my monitor shuts off, and I've measured voltage fluctuation at its output.

Just buy a used charger, or an official one from somewhere else than Dell.

There are 3 connections. Example: thinkwiki.org/wiki/Power_Connector

should have bought a thinkpad

Except OP has a Dell..

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I've seen this across many different laptop makes and even in some AIO PCs.

And I already told op that the connector MIGHT not have an ID pin, I told him it's his job to check.

>I'm asking if it would work and charge properly.
Why shouldn't it you dumbfuck mongoloid cuck?
Unless your are a fucking mongoloid soldering aint no rocket science.

newer dell chargers are actually pretty cheap, I got one for a latitude 7480 for £16. buy direct from dell (slightly more expensive) or one of their cerified partners to be sure its genuine.

ot use USB-c if your laptop supports it.

I've had to fix one once because the dog chewed it up. On the barrel jack side I actually cut the plastic insulation off and desoldered the wires from the jack and soldered the wires to the jack in their respective spots. Then I covered it with hotglue and put a heatshink tubing over it to conceal the mess and used a lighter to shrink the tube and melt the glue together to make a strong formed plug.

Buy a used OEM from ebay

Everyone in this thread is dumb. Wired charging, in general, is a fucking joke.

The future is wireless. And one day in a few years, remote. You just walk in to a room, or cafe, or work, or a subway, and your phone and laptop all start charging. This is the future.

buy a generic charger for your laptop

unless your laptop draws more than 100 watts you should be fine

if you want to play it even safer, get an universal charger with variable voltage and good reviews from amazon, should be like $20 or $30, find the voltage of your charger have it set to that