/mkg/ - left-hand numpads edition
>Buyer's template:
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>Where to Buy:
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>FAQs:
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>Use the buyer's template
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>Group Buys
docs.google.com
massdrop.com
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org
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What yall n words rekon I should put in my gergo
Choices are mod m, tealios, or hal(k?)k trues
Also wats /mkg/ opinion on pale blues? Using some rn n they feel great
Does anybody here have the diagram of the metal case in this deskthority thread? deskthority.net
I want to modify it so I can use mx switches and handwire them.
I've asked OP, Tom Smalley, but he hasn't answered my inquiry yet.
>intereference cuff on a keyboard cord
Why?
Surely you can go full low profile like choc or ml, mate. Or you can try hako clear. Although I really like my dactyl with hako true, hako trues just feel like dirty linear.
And yeh, box pale blue beats the shit out of mx blue. Its clicky-ness, if that's a word, is much more punctuated because of the click bar.
Never heard of choc or ml but am very intrigued thanks for ur recommendation
No prob, mate. But make sure to post that nice pair of keyboard if you've finished building it.
You're probably better off just designing your own plates in KLE or something.
>Budget
Unlimited
>Location
Australia
>Preferred Switch
Speed Silver, though open to suggestions
>Layout
ANSI
>Form Factor
75%, would like function keys, but don't mind losing arrows and ins/home/pgup/del/end/pgdn, definitely no numpad, want the mousepad space.
>Backlight
don't mind
>Previous Keyboard
Corsair K70 Rapidfire, I liked the switches, hated the length and durability.
Intend on buying a keyboard I can use for 10+ years.
Mate, I beg you to. Can you please post the dimensions of the bent column?
Beats me. You can probably take them out of the clojure code for the dactyl (manuform) though.
Singa
Right. BRB, will learn Clojure. Wait me for a year.
Against leakage. At USB 1.1 or 2.0 speeds, it can easily be noticeable if it leaks into audio signal cables for example.
Put the cable going from your DAC to you AMP close to your mouse and it's cable, turn the AMP up and you'll hear it, specially when you move the mouse.
Those shitbeads are for keeping signals in the wire or remove excess noise from a device. That's why you see them on laptop power supply cables for example.
Take a look at the maltron patent then. Or email the kinesis dudes and ask for dimensions.
Aight. There are some params in the dactyl.clj about that. Should ease the process a bit.
Tha, mate.
Suggest me some keycaps /mkg/
My Pok3r is starting to look haggard. The edges of the translucent legends of the abs keycaps that come with it are starting to get fuzzy and the middle of the "D" is almost entirely gone.
Mine is a black Pok3r with white LEDs.
GMK
has anyone actually ordered from "Apollos' Custom Keyboard Workshop" ?
prices are fucking email only
Get some PBT dyesubs.
Has anyone ever purchased desoldering/lubing services from someone else? My MX switches are scratchy as fuck, I'd lube them myself if they were just normal switches, but they have LEDs in them and I hear that's a real pain to desolder, so I'm not completely confident.
I could do it for you. It wouldn't be cheap though, lubing switches is tedious as hell.
I'm out of graduate school now and, though I'm keeping my blue-switched keyboard for actual work product since it has become part of my body and I can't get speeds this high on any other keyboard, I've bought a brown-switched keyboard because the clack has finally worn down my soul after years of daily typing. Is the Corsair K70 a total meme? It was on sale for 99.99USD and I had a further discount that brought it down to 80USD. Seemed like an ok deal for a Cherry Brown keyboard.
not too hard with a good desoldering iron
I do all my shit with a cheapo solder sucker, although tiny holes (like the ones for leds) are a little harder with a cheapo sucker
just invest $100 in tools and do it yourself
just get some super lube for a couple of bucks and a brush, touch the parts where there's mechanical contact and you're done
only a braindead ape needs an entire guide on how to lube switches with 'special' lube and a reference to a ching chong who barely knows how a soldering iron works
Why do you NEED a mechanical keyboard?
I don't. I don't NEED alcohol either, but I sure like it a bunch.
enjoy your shitty feeling switches, bud
I've used shoe grease on switches before and it feels fine still (3 years ago or so)
though I don't use that board very often anymore
Alco is absolutely degenerate, you should reconsider your life
Are there any good simplistic mice out there?
I feel weird dumping $250 on a keyboard and having some turbo fucker mad catz looking bullshit next to it
Anyone here have any experience with this kit?
I reconsider my life every day. And I pop a boner. So I'm not here to talk to you.
Razzzzer DEATHADDER. Or a Steel Series Rival 600 with the lights turned off/subdued. The Steel Series is nice because of the customizable weight, but your pinky will have to get used to a different position. Takes a couple of days.
Steelseries 310 Rival or Sensei.
Logitech G203 or G Pro.
Razer Mamba or Deathadder.
Zowie mouse in general.
Zowie EC1-B, EC2-B
Where do I find MX Green based keyboards in Australia?
Literally none show up anywhere I search, and the one I have found was a fairly dirty, faded CM MasterKeys S at $300, which is far more than even a lot of Razer's offerings, which is saying a lot.
thots?
What do you guys think of the wooting keyboards?
Just bought this yesterday, it will be my first ever mechanical. Did I do good?
buy gateron greens from aliexpress or kbdfans and build your own
dogshit, enjoy!
>Budget
Location (continent at least)
LONDON
O
N
D
O
N
>Preferred switch type
Cherry MX Blue
>Layout
QWERTY
>Form factor
Full-Size or TKL
>Backlight
Preferred, not necessary, as long as it's white or some light color
>Previous/current keyboards
Ducky One Rainbow Edition just died, i loved it and i want something similar
*by light or white i mean the body of the keyboard, not the backlight
Why is it dogshit?
>Budget
$150 AUD, maybe another $50 or something if I could be bothered selling my Razer Ornata Chroma
>Location (continent at least)
Australia
>Preferred switch type
Clicky, whether that be cherry blue, cherry green, razer green, box navy, etc.
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
100%, plus dedicated media keys would be ideal
>Backlight
Not necessary, but would be a neat addition for RGB.
>Previous/current keyboards
Razer Ornata Chroma is my current. Bought it on sale for $130 AUD, and holy fuck is it worse than I imagined.
Leopold 900r, 980m, 750m
Ducky One 2
pccasegear.com
If I want really light switches should I go for Reds or Blues or something else?
Also would appreciate thoughts on Vortexgear Race 3 75% or recommendations for other similar layouts?
How comparable are the gateron greens to cherry green?
If you're looking to splash money then get the charging surface logitech mousepad with either a G703 or a G903. That's probably the most comfy all rounder setup that money can buy right now.
Other than that I just wanna derecommend Zowie mice because the switches are super heavy in those making it not very comfortable for general use.
Logitech MX Master or Kensington Slim blade.
You shouldn't game on your computer user, it's a waste of your time.
Gateron clears are the lightest stock switch you can get. If you want lighter you'd have to go custom.
a bit bland
black
thanks for the suggestions though
That suggestions wasn't for you and I'd never recommend buying from Australia, but if you want a white keyboard then get either a Leopold since they have the best build quality of any manufacturer, or a Ducky One 2 in white with white LEDs
mechanicalkeyboards.com
Compared to other gaymeng brands, it's quite decent. And it's definitely not the worst deal for the first mech. But you must know:
1) Keycaps are laser-abs. This is the cheapest to manufacture and fastest to wear out. Doubleshot keycaps instead of the laser ones are a common thing when it comes to the quality product. And pbt, unlike abs, will not become glossy over time. Corsair actually sells such keycaps separately, such a scam, with this price of the board itself.
2) You can only program it through the driver. And you can't use your macros without your driver running on the background. Normal keyboards have their own memory for such.
3) It's just me, but I hate undetachable cables, especially this thick
Opinions on the fnatic rush? I'm looking for a cheap full-size board and it looks pretty good for proper cherry switches at 70 bongs
See
You shouldn't pay more than eighty American bucks for corshit and low-profile is a joke.
Hey, any recommendations on a keyboard with plenty of macro keys, backlighting, full-size, Mx reds/blues, and use ports?
UK layout, in the UK.
Budget is maybe 100 to 200
If I like playing stepmania, what are the best switch types I should be looking at?
Tipro for the memes
Actually looks amazing, doubt is be able to use it full time though.
the keyboards are modular so you can use smaller pieces instead of the big ones
is there an actual point to the middle staggered-row keyboard given the flanking split sections, or is this solely for appearance?
>Budget
$150
>Location (continent at least)
US
>Preferred switch type
MX Red/Blue/Silver, just anything that's light really.
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
TKL or 100%
>Backlight
No preference
>Previous/current keyboards
Corsair K70 MX Reds, no major complaints just want to try something better.
Forgot to add, I'd prefer a board that's easy to clean. The K70 has a completely flat board which is pretty nice when you wanna take out keys or clean it.
ugly ass font
bad keycaps
bottom row are stupid and can't customize
corsair strafe is $140 for a plastic frame.
Return now and exchange for at least a k70 if you truly need corsair.
And don't get browns you retard
Anyone redpill me on the wooting (blue switches).
I want a good tkl mech, that doesn't look like gamer shit, also it needs to be iso german, so I'm kinda limited in what to buy.
Gateron yellows have unique springs, right? Has anyone here ever tried those in other switches, like for example Zealios?
hi /mkg/
I bought the EleEnter Game1 keyboard something like 2 years ago now. It is/was a $36 mechanical with clicky blue-type switches.
A few of the keys I use most frequently like a and l no longer click. The keys register just fine, all the keys still work but a few of them no longer click when they are pressed.
Just thought I'd stop by and let you know what the durability of a $36 mechanical keyboard's like.
All the RGB leds appear to still work just fine.
I'm assuming the switches are Outemus, but can you pull a keycap off to check? It usually says the brand right there on the top housing.
The switches are of a brand(?) called "Content". Searching for it doesn't reveal much of anything.
pic related isn't my keyboard, btw, had a hard time getting a clear picture but it's the same switch as mine.
looks a lot like gaote switches. wouldn't surpise me if they are since outemu also rebrands gaote switches as their own
Are there any programmable topre keyboards
>Budget
About 70€
>Location (continent at least)
Germany
>Preferred switch type
Something clicky, so blue probably
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
60%
>Backlight
Doesn't really matter to me, so whatever looks/works better
>Previous/current keyboards
Steelseries Apex, got memed into "gaming" keyboards and now I got this big ass thing
yes
what's a good backlit pbt double shot set for ducky one 2 mini?
>german
>ansi
why.jpeg
which ones? i've only found ones that allow programmability through hasu
The gaymer ones
don't play me like this
>no function keys
>no function modifier key
What?
Anyone know where I can get a 1.75 shift blank black pbt keycap. Does anyone actually print on PBT with custom images or is it just ABS?
it's true tho. their gaymer keyboards are programmable with macros, rebinding keys, multi-media functionality, etc.
if i had to get a programmable topre keyboard i'd just stick with hasu's controller. you don't even need to solder it since it's just plug and play.
Hey I need a 7inch long and 3 inch f
Wide keyboard what would be my best bet
gateron makes some, and yes you can print whatever you want on PBT
are the gaymer ones any decent?
Lads, I'm thinking of buying an Apple keyboard.
I need a bluetooth keyboard, preferably with arrow keys. I have an anne pro but it's actually a piece of shit. Are there any bluetooth keyboards that do not suck? I don't want to buy an apple keyboard.
Not really, they look awful and they feel weird cause they use different MX compatible sliders for better aftermarket keycap support. Most people like them tho. They also have a nifty feature of letting you change the actuation distance.
What are in your opinion the best tactile switches? I've tried a random razer keyboard at the store today with their green switches. Their actuation force was good, not too light, not too stiff, but they were clicky. I want to buy a proper keyboard that isn't gayming-branded but I'm not sure about the switches yet.
Just buy it goy it even comes with arrow keys
apple.com
Yeah but where can I get that done? I was looking at wasd but it's abs
I like zilents v2 tho I don't think I can pay the premium for them
noo, I don't want to buy it
do it yourself or just go to anyone with a thermal printer