/pcbg/ - PC Building General

When is ryzen3 out?

What do you mean plan your build around your monitor? I'm building a gaming pc for sole use on a b7 oled, so what does that imply?

I want to game at 4k so I'll be looking at a 2070+

>When is ryzen3 out?
Q3 at the earliest
>What do you mean plan your build around your monitor?
Exactly what it sounds like. There’s a pretty big difference between required hardware between 1080/1440/4K gaming.

Depends where you get it from. I'd just go with the most trustworthy looking offer (certainly not the cheap one that is too good to be true) with good spelling, good photos that weren't stolen from a different listing and no red flags (such as, being asked to send the money to a different country). If you get it in person and can try it out in the seller's own computer at their place to confirm it's working, that would be a bonus, but isn't so necessary. Most people just want to get back some money to purchase new parts and they are not looking to scam you.

You could just get a 1080ti used, then you won't have to upgrade later when you get a 1440p screen. A 1070 can do 1440p for sure, but not at 60fps with the latest games anymore. Maybe you can get a 1080.

No idea. Maybe your first testing was just not long enough to see the temps rise. Unless your temps are 90 degrees C and above, I wouldn't worry about it.

M2 has the advantage of supporting extra fast SSDs. You can get a Crucial P1 for just a few bucks more than any other good 5 year warranty SATA SSD would cost and the write speed is 1.6GB/s instead of 550MB/s. SATA SSDs certainly aren't half the price unless you are looking at cheap third party shit from Kingston and ADATA and what they're called. First party ones (Micron, Crucial, Samsung) manufacture their own memory and give long 5 year warranty on a lot of their parts, so they are obviously more reliable.

What? You need a brand new computer...

I would keep that CPU for now (RAM too, no use in wasting money on new DDR3 now, 16GB will be ok for a while longer) and only upgrade the graphics card right away. Get at least a used 1080 or a 2070 for 1440p, better a used 1080ti, it's good enough for 4K and plenty for 1440p for the next few years really.

Also add a 1TB SATA SSD, you can switch that and the graphics card over to a new system in 2-4 years when the CPU and RAM start to drag down performance.

But you have a fast quadcore, new CPUs have a bit higher clockspeed (so better single core performance, which would be useful in some games specifically, like Factorio) as well as 2 or 4 more cpu cores. Games will often use up to 4 cores, but not many will use 6 (Hitman 2 and other modern ones) and few will use 8 (x-plane, but that's more a simulation than a game, Star Citizen and that is not a game, no idea if it will ever be).

So 4 cores >3.5GHz is a solid basis for gaming for at least another year or two.

Lenovo, or Dell, or HP if it's an Elitebook series. Avoid Acer and Medon, they are the two worst brands out there. If possible get a Lenovo from the Thinkpad X or Thinkpad T series, or a Dell from the Latitude series (5xxx or 7xxx series if possible).

Stick to the most commonly sold/used 12" or 14" or 15" models and avoid convertibles.

If you aren't sure... it is relatively cheap and can't hurt to add another 8GB (assuming you have 8 now). That said, most games are fine with 8GB and if you are tight on money and don't have issues, then you don't have to upgrade.

Very stupid question, but can I just pop my current HDD into the new build as an additional storage and everything I have on it will be on it and not cause issues on the new computer? OS obviously is NOT installed on that.

Hey lads, gonna be building my first gaming PC in the coming weeks. My budget is approximately $1250 American for everything (PC, mouse, keyboard, monitor)
I'm currently leaning toward mimicking Joey Delgados recent $750 gaming build, but beefing up the RAM from 8GB to 16GB and the hard drive from 1TB to 2 or 4TB
youtube.com/watch?v=98ujnl1_hW0
My goal is to start out gaming at 1080p/>60FPS and upgrade to 1440p after tax season next year or the year after.
My questions are:
-Is it worthwhile to beef up the SSD from 128GB to 256GB or more?
-Is it worth getting the RX580 now and upgrading the graphics card when I upgrade my monitor or is it better to invest in a better graphics card now?

Not building a PC but this is the best place to ask:
Looking to replace my mobile workstation with a lighter laptop. Looking for:

Pretty much. You can go into bios before first boot and change it to be further down the boot order if you wanna be extra safe

Gotcha, thanks.

Yeah, but dont expect installed applications to run perfectly. Most of the time they rely on registry entries. But your files n shit will be there all fine

PC under, or on top of the desk?

How important is monitor refresh rate and sync?

Looking at Dell U3417W. It seems fine all around but only supports 60Hz; will that bite me in gayming if FPS can't climb that high? Will that bite me if it actually manages 60+ fps (no g/f sync)?

(I suppose no/yes, but gotta doublecheck)

Attached: dellu3417w.jpg (1500x1500, 157K)

The problem here is you’re gonna start 1080 then move to 1440 relatively soon. Consider building your computer for 1080p rn and then reevaluate once you have more money 2yrs from now when you get a 1440 screen. pcpartpicker.com/list/LLpNV6 Will set you up and leaves a good 350-400 to get your peripherals.

Also as said don’t expect programs and such to work. Best solution (and what I did) is migrate files you need to a single folder and delete/uninstall everything else from it while it’s still in your old system. That way when you move it to your new system you can have a fresh HDD and anything you need is neatly filed away under “old build files” folder

Yea, the only programs I have in there are some steam games which I can just reinstall anyways. However, will do just what you suggested for all the other files in there. Thanks again!

how am I supposed to get the self-tapping screws into the fan holes?
It get stuck halfway in

rtx 2060 or vega 56, and why? let's assume power consumption is not an issue

How do you mean "bite me"?

Get at least a 500GB SSD, or 1TB. With the smaller ones you pay a penalty, i.e. the 250GB ones aren't that much cheaper compared to 500GB ones.

It doesn't make much sense to buy a brand new card now and switch it out just in a year. Better to get one now that will last you at least 3 years. For 1440p you should get a used 1080 or a new 2070. That will do just fine. If you can and want to spend more, a used 1080ti will last you the longest as it is currently the cheapest choice for solid 4K performance and plenty for 1440p.

Better would probably be a used 1080 and save the money that you would have spent on a 1080ti and get a new screen right away. Then you have the most from your new gaming system right away.

Read what i just recommended here: Some people try 144Hz and never want to go back to 60Hz, some don't notice a difference and some say it is nice to have but not a requirement. It's a personal choice. If your pc can deliver 100+ fps at the monitor's resolution, then you could try out 144Hz. If your computer can't do much more than a constant 60fps or even less, then there is no use in setting a monitor to 144Hz.

Just compare benchmarks in reviews and see which card performs better in the games you play most. But I'd say the Vega56 has the advantage of 8GB of VRAM. The 2060 is just not a good card. There are even cheap 570s out there with 8GB of VRAM. Nvidia just messed the 2060 up to upsell buyers to a 2070.

I mean screen tearing or something - the monitor in question doesn't support gsync.

Lol I wish I could run uwqhd at 100+ fps.

With the steam games I’d recommend making a backup of the ones you play the most, put those backups aside and then delete the steam folder. Then in your new machine rebuild the steam library via steam again and replace the games with the backup. But in this day and age of unlimited fast internet it may just be easier and faster to redownload

Vega 56 depending on price.
In UK we can get the sapphire pulse for cheaper than any 2060 model, and the decent ones are £50-60+ more.
2060 is 5% faster out of the box but when both are overclocked and Vega is undervolted it's faster since stock Vega is underwhelming. Power consumption difference is like 200w Vs 180w if you're overclocking them both.

Bonus is 2gb more faster vram and 3 decent games.

I'll give it a try for a few games. Worth a shot even if my internet is indeed pretty good.

Not sure if my 2600k is going to hold out until Zen 2. I've had to downclock it from 5ghz > 4.7 > 4.3 since 2011 due to blue screens and heat. What a chip.

There's a €80 discount on asus z390 F, should I just jump on it and get a 9700k (or 9900k?) or go straight to 2700X? If I upgrade now I really don't want to upgrade for at least 3 years.

I’m an Aussie so when I did it it was stupid faster than what my internet could do. A 24gb game installed from backup in 13.5min

>you put the whole thing apart and cleaned it
It was pretty clean before.
>as time passes dust gets back into the heatsink
It's relatively dusk free right now as well, no big obvious dust that the human eye can see, at max there is a thin layer of dust that sticks to it, but again, in both cases it was at minimal.
It really shouldn't be that.
>how clean or not is your rig?
Very.
One of my own theories is that, the original thermal pads on the VRM and memory were either mediorce or in case of some memory chips, didn't even touch it.
I set up a better VRM pad, the correct height as well.
I set up better thermal pad with the PCB on the memory chips that are on the other side of the card so the copper in the PCB will transfer some of that head to the headplate.
And set up thermal paste on the memory chips that were on the gpu chip side(they here 0.5mm or less to the card, some of them are making almost direct contact with the chips, some are using the unsmooshed thermal paste as the heat conductor between the memory chip and the thermal plate.
So in theory, since the whole thing is getting cooled by the one single fan, better heat transfer to the base plate, might mean slightly worse GPU chip cooling.
Look at the picture to get a better idea.
But here is the big issue, why would the heat build up over time, why would the temps drop 5-7C right after and over the course of weeks/ a month, climb back up to the original temp mark.
That's the part I can't explain.

Attached: old gpu status.jpg (2665x3545, 2.54M)

Will the Noctua NH-D15 fit into many matx cases?

Seems to beat a lot of closed cooler systems for noise and performance

>No idea. Maybe your first testing was just not long enough to see the temps rise. Unless your temps are 90 degrees C and above, I wouldn't worry about it.
The testing method was the same in both cases, 10-15 min at max load is usually enough to max out the temps.
The clocks on the chips and GPU are the same, the fan speed is also controlled and 50% in all tests.
The temps are 71C with an overclock and 65stock. That's not the issue, it's driving me insane that the bloody thing got 58C stock and 64OC for like 1-2weeks and then it degraded back to the old thermals.

also look here

shit's weird
have you taken it apart again? maybe the vrm pad got dislodged somehow, or something else did for that matter?
honestly other than that, no idea m8

have you taken it apart again?
nope, I have not removed it from the case since I installed it a while ago.
>maybe the vrm pad got dislodged somehow,
If that was the case, why would the GPU chip itself be more hot, after all that's the temperature I have measured at all times?

>honestly other than that, no idea m8
Realistically I would have taken it appart, applied the same thermal paste and monitored the situation to see the results.
But because 4 chips also use thermal paste, the taking apart and putting back together is messy and more time consuming and I am not willing to do that while the temps are within safety margins.
But it irks me greatly. Both the fact that I lost the upgrade in therms of cooling I initially made and the fact I have no idea what is causing it and the puzzle is vexing me so.

I googled this and apparently you don't need to be able to do 100+fps to see a benefit from 144Hz. So I guess you should find someone with a 144Hz setup or a store that has that. No idea where that would be.

You have a Sandybridge gen CPU, 2011. That is old enough to warrant an immediate upgrade. Look at it from this point of view: The current generations are fast enough to last you another 8 years. Why wait for something faster when something as ridiculous as a 9900k is overkill now and will still be overkill in a year or two? If you always wait for a faster generation just because it is faster, then you'll never upgrade.

Hahaha that is easy enough to explain, you added about 4-5 times as much paste as is necessary. Look at that, it's like a toddler ate thermal paste all over your GPU chip. If that paste was conductive, it would have already fried everything.

As you can see, the pressure from the cooler has pushed all the excess paste away. Clean that up and when you apply paste again, only use the amount that is stuck to gpu+cooler minus all the stuff that got pushed to the side. Jesus christ people, if the paste was red one could assume that you are putting tomato sauce on a pizza dough...

Also notice the R22 at the bottom, was it soldered like that or is it coming off the board?

>If you always wait for a faster generation just because it is faster, then you'll never upgrade.
I agree however I just don't know what to go for. 2700X looks good and is quite a bit cheaper but maybe that extra €100 for a 9700k will help me in the future.

Depends on what you'll use it for, look at reviews and benchmarks. Personally, for me both would be overkill and I wouldn't really care which one I'd get. Perhaps you can base your decision on other features you need, such as the ECC memory support with AMD.

Good time to buy an rx 580?

>tfw wifi card too smol

Attached: 20190212_123314.jpg (1080x1440, 272K)

What a lil cutie!

Always a good time, friend!

>Hahaha that is easy enough to explain, you added about 4-5 times as much paste as is necessary. Look at that, it's like a toddler ate thermal paste all over your GPU chip
Uh, mate that is the stock GPU.
The image is after I took it apart the first time, not how it looks now. If you read my posts that should have been obvious. Also that thermal paste is literally dust/crumbling, that takes years, so it can't possibly be the thing I did a month ago.

>Also notice the R22 at the bottom, was it soldered like that or is it coming off the board?
Soldered

>tfw your motherboard comes with a wifi installed but you unskrew and plop the sucker out because wifi is cancer

The preinstalled wifi is likely to be incompatible with linux. And reports your data directly to China.

That's stock?! What were those people thinking... I mean I changed thermal paste on a few GPUs but none were THAT bad. Well then I have no idea why the temps fluctuate like that.

look at the case max cooler height listed in the specs

Helping a friend build his pc, he might upgrade from his 1080p monitor to 1440, talked him out of the 2060 rtx, should I grab a a 1060/570 now or wait for the 1160 gtx?

Attached: 1_gQVf0RpFjaYfS7GJJtuzQg.jpg (1024x576, 104K)

I don't see how waiting for a laptop chip would help.

digitaltrends.com/computing/nvidia-gtx-1160-ti-2019/

Anyone but dipshit can answer

The 1660 will only be a tiny bit more powerful than a 1060

You've seen benchmarks?

No, just a guess since it has the same number of SMs and similar clock speeds, but wait for real numbers.

20% is the estimated improvement I'm expecting, plus newer silicon is usually better, just can't find a release date.

60hz is unusable and should be illegal

ur a bad friend

I'm building a dual monitor setup. One 1440p running AAA titles @ 60fps and another 1080p monitor that'll have firefox open with a couple tabs as well as discord running in the back. My budget is ~$1500. This is what I was thinking...
>ryzen 2700x
>16gb ddr4 3000mhz
>used gtx 1080 or rtx 2070
>750 watts psu
Thanks for any input

whats the difference between Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB and Samsung - 860 Pro 512 GB

I have that setup and my water cooled stock 1070 handles it fine.

whats the difference between
Asus - TUF Z390-PLUS GAMING (WI-FI) ATX
Asus - TUF Z390M-PRO GAMING (WI-FI) Micro ATX

Size. ATX vs mATX respectively.

well yea obviously i mean anything other than size

which rtx 2080 brand has the most quiet and cool(tempwise) heatsink. leaning towards evga due to superior customer support.

There's no reason I can't yank the SSD out of my dead laptop and stick into a new desktop, is there?

less features because smaller board?

evga is expensive as fuck tho, at least in merkel land.

No, it should work just fine if you don't fuck anything up.

The 2060 is not so great with its 6GB of VRAM limit. Maybe a Vega56, or a used 1080.

Have drivers improved much for the rtx cards since launch?

Just buy the cheapest one, get a water block and add it to your water loop.

Any recommendations for cheap used Quadro GPUs for Autocad?

>No, it should work just fine
Oka...
>if you don't fuck anything up.
*sweatingman.png*

Does anyone have the EVGA G3 power supply? If so, are the connectors where its 2 pin and 6 pin separated, able to be connected some way? Or are you just supposed to push them together into the socket (ie the graphics card slot)

Attached: 902.jpg (680x544, 33K)

If there is I will feel dumb. I just held them together and got them in the GPU. Was a fiddle.

Read some reviews? I mean sure ask us questions but do we have to chew out what can be easily found out by spending a few minutes googling reviews?

About EVGA: I have an EVGA card (got their 10 year warranty too, that was a waste since I will replace it when it's 5 years old or so...). It works fine and all, watercooling it and got a FTW model that can be overclocked very nicely. But... I didn't see any superiority in the past 3 years. It performs like any other 1080, and also if I hadn't watercooled it, it would have been at risk of overheating because EVGA forgot some cooling pads between chips and heatsink or something. (They sent them out for free and you had to take it apart, that is surely some superior support right there...)

Sure they are helpful and nice with a good phone support, but honestly I needed it only once before making the purchase and if I had gotten a cheaper Asus with 3 years of warranty it would be just as fine.

So I'd get a card from a good manufacturer with 3 years of warranty, Asus or MSI, depending on who made the more silent card. But I probably wouldn't pay a premium for EVGA again.

Even if you wanted to overclock, you'd have to get their most expensive FTW or whatnot models to have a good chance of getting an overclockable chip. At least back with my purchase, the chips were binned in a way that the cheaper cards got chips that weren't usable for overclocking and only the more expensive FTW had better chips. Not sure if that was true though. In any case, the FTW was so a good bit more expensive, I should have just saved that money or gotten a 1080ti instead (the 1080ti wasn't released yet back then but still a waste of money).

They are separated because some GPUs use 6 pin and others 8pin power slots.
You just hold them together if you have a GPU that uses 8, if you have one uses 6 then you leave the 2 pin flying around.

>Or are you just supposed to push them together into the socket (ie the graphics card slot)

Yes that is what you are supposed to do. The reason is that some cards only require a 6-pin connector, so the connector can be switched between 6 and 8 pin.

Do we have any solid details on the 1160 or the TI versions release, it's the only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger right now.

awesome ty ty

Somewhere between the 15th and 22nd.
They're already being delivered to retailers now.

meant for

i don’t plan to watercool or overclock.
would you recommend MSI’s trio or Asus’s Strix, since you said EvGa’s premium price and “support” isn’t worth it? also i’m considering gigabyte’s windforce edition because i’ve been very happy with my old windforce gpu.
i’m doing research myself and just need some expert advice from you, frens

Guys I'm having an issue and I need to know if I'm retarded or not
I have a b450 aorus motherboard that won't stay on. I plug the power in and flip it on and the lights flash for half a second and then go out. No other indication it turns on. I've tried breadboxing the whole build and still the same behavior. My PSU is fine, tested it with another mobo.
I sent it in for an RMA but they told me no trouble found and sent it back. Is this the expected behavior? What the fuck am I doing wrong? Honestly at this point I think Gigabyte is just dicking me and I'll have to get a new mobo

Attached: 1549084226331.jpg (851x857, 81K)

Which CPU?

Laos the RAM, have you confirmed they're compatible with the stock BIOS?

AMD Ryzen 7 2700x

Not sure, I'll check
But I would assume that I'd get some indication that the mobo is holding power. Like a light will stay on or something

Not really, looping is fairly common with faulty or incompatible CPU/RAM on cheaper boards that don't have proper diagnostic systems.

>looping
What's that mean?

>buying anything from gigabyte
>especially a mobo
Hahahahahaha

Automatically powering off/on in a loop.
Post a photo of everything connected up for us please, preferably 2 or 3 from different angles.

>>But I would assume that I'd get some indication that the mobo is holding power. Like a light will stay on or something
Do you have the power led hooked to the front panel header thing?

Yeah I won't make that mistake again. Sticking with Asus

If I can't make any progress soon I'll do that

I'll check. Just took a dump