/pcbg/ - PC Building General

What fucking settings do they run these tests at? everything included autism settings maxed out?

BF5 runs at 80+ rock solid for me on a 1060 6gb

Just get a 2080 or 2080ti, scrub

This even

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Gonna ask one more time before I pull the trigger.

Yes/No for 1440p gaming?

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Why HP and not Samsung for your SSD?

Literally just a guide I picked from PC part picker. Any particular one you'd recommend?

This guy loves AMD so much that he puts cherrypicked AMD benchmarks in the OP

>All AMD chipsets support XMP
A320 doesn't support XMP, retard

Is the wraith spire really that bad that you need to spend almost 90$ on an aftermarket cooler? If you're only gaming the CPU is not the bottleneck at 1440p+

>1660ti
What an ugly fucking name. I wouldn't buy one even if it was good, just because I don't like that stupid name.

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based

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I have no idea what you're talking about I just picked this one out from a bunch of other guides.

Am I going overboard here If I want the 1440p experience and maybe some 4K?

Why no 1080ti in OP pic?

Samsung 970 is considered the industry benchmark.

>have all the parts
>feel like I have the 7 chaos emeralds
>scared to order them
What the fuck. Why is this PC thing so intimidating. I'm fucking scared.

Oh fuck wait. Retard here.

I have no disk drive. How will I install Windows? A boot drive? Do they sell boot drives? Will an external disc drive work even If I don't have an OS?

Plug in the universal serial bus drive stick storage thingy that you burned a Windows 10 ISO with. Get with the times, grandpa.

Ok right, one more question so I am the retardest of retards. How would I make it a legal copy? Will I be able to buy a license through the internet or will I still need a disk on hand?

You can buy a key online for like $10 or just validate with a community tool instead, nobody pays for windows anymore

>Still using physical media
Get with the times chummer

I have a stupid question, the parts for my new rig are arriving tomorrow, I'm doing a clean install on an M.2 drive, do I have to reinstall my steam library from a backup or is there a way to get steam to find the games from the previous windows install that are on the other drives?

I really don't want to go through the massive waste of time of reinstalling 400gb of games on my shitty internet

>You can buy a key online for like $10
Where my man.

Any copy is legal, go ahead and boot via USB, but the activation is where you have to pay up for a key or pirate like any other person

Amazon
OEM key direct from microsoft
Just pirate it like a cool guy, its easy and risk free

$10 keys are grey market, so they're not necessarily any more feel-good than pirating. Don't spend $200 like a cuck, Microshaft shafts you hard enough already.

Okay. Last dumb guy question.

I won't be able to get my 1440p monitor for like another week.

Will it be fine using my new computer with my shitty old 1080p 59hz monitor? I'm sorry if these are dumb questions I'm just paranoid.

yes retard, your PC won't explode just because you are using a lower res

Good. But is it true my FPS will be capped at 59 because that's all my monitor can handle? My friend told me that one.

r8 my loop build

going to add a gpu block later so I'm leaving some room for that

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Your system won’t cap it unless you manually cap it but it is true in the sense that your screen will only refresh at 60 fps, even if you’re running minecraft at 500fps

tldr: no but anything over 60fps is kinda just wasting your resources

>made the order
I-I'm finally a PC guy.

It almost feels worth it now working myself to the bone to make a meaty tax refund.

Thanks everyone who helped me. Hope we'll be playing together soon.

If you're breathing this hard right now, you'll be shitting yourself putting the PC together.

My mouse, pic related, has started to double click sometimes when I single click it. I've heard of this happening in some mice, but I thought it would happen much further into its life span (its nearly a year old).
Are there any manufactures/brands of mice that don't have this issue? Or is it just a universal thing that happens with use?

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Any mid to high end Logitech should be fine.

I've gone through half a dozen computer mice in the past roughly 8 years. They die, the sensitivity goes haywire, the pointer starts drifting when the mouse isn't moving, they start to double click on single click, even supposedly good ones turn out to be pieces of shit. But I'm still using the same Filco keyboard, which served me through three and a half years of graduate school, severe Jow Forums addiction and typing probably millions of keystrokes. Majestouch Tenkeyless with Cherry MX browns, made in Taiwan. I'd love to find the computer mouse equivalent of a good mechanical keyboard.

Is there anything you can do about PSU coil whine?

enjoy mate. I'm waiting on my continuously delayed build atm

Whats some decent free benchmark software to test my GPU?
Just got a new one installed and want to see how it scores compared to old one

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I'm doing a couple of project build PC's as kind of an experiment, now I already posted this in Chink Shit General hoping to get an answer but where can I purchase individual total garbage chinese computer components? I'm talking graphics card, motherboard, RAM, HDD, power supply, the whole shibang, all of garbage chinese brands that nobody has ever heard the name of.
Any suggestions where to buy my trash?

Buy a prebuilt and scavenge the parts. Nothing like a good ol' Pegatron mobo with absolutely no documentation.

I just bought a m2 sata instead of a NVME because im retarded.

Should i return it or are the speed gains just a meme if im just using it for OS and some games?

>This guy loves AMD so much that he puts cherrypicked AMD benchmarks in the OP
fucking what?

Reminder to buy FAST RAM

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microcenter.com/product/514034/g316-gaming-desktop-computer

how is this prebuilt

Got this shit running resident evil 2, pretty happy with my comp

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So I'm on the fence between a $160 Ryzen 7 1700 and a $165 Ryzen 5 2600, though the 2600 comes with The Division 2 which I could sell and recoup some money.
Which would be the better buy?

Literally buy a g502 you imbecile. Haven't you USED Logitech?

Get a 2600.

Alright. Will 2x8 2666mhz be decent enough for ram?

One of the few games where V56 beats the 2060

2x8 3000Mhz is better.

Hi. I'm looking to buy a good computer monitor with a maximum budget of $180. Maximum vertical height of 47cm (18.5in). Between 24" and 30". I'm willing to consider simply buying a HDTV if it's just as good and cheaper. I'm not interested in "gaming" monitors with super low latency. My PC is mid-end if that matters.

What do you suggest?

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>I5
Get something with a Ryzen 5.
I told you this either last thread or the one before that.
The only reason to go Intel is if you're anal-retentive about 144 fps, in which case, you get the i9 9900k. Anything below the 9900k in Intel's line up is just for Intel shills. Go Ryzen.

>inb4 AMD Shill
I've had i5s. I shilled for them long enough. The i5 is dead. Long live the Ryzen 5.

>What do you suggest?
Acer - ED242QR Abidpx
>1080p
>VA panel
>144hz
>Freesync

>shill post, the post

I'm not going to point out all the flaws here, but obviously the i7 9700K and the i9 9900K provide identical framerates most of the time, even in those high powered graphics card / 1080p / low settings situations

What're some good cases with 3x 140mm front fan mounts?
I was looking at the RL06, but it's just got the 2, with 3x 120mm fans.
I mainly want it since, when I bought some fans a few weeks back, I accidentally picked some 140mm fans, thinking they were 120mm, and they were on sale for about $6 anyway, so I didn't think too much of it.

Just finished building an 8400+2060 build for around 900 dollars. Got windows booted and everything. Need to go back and manage my wires, started to get tired and I have work in the morning so I just did zero management to see if it booted and will fix soon.

Will update on performance at 3440x1440 soon

Assuming I just don't want a completely non-modular PSU, is there any benefit to getting a fully modular over semi modular?
I just want better cable management, and currently having a non-modular PSU makes that hard, since I've got 2 bundled up Molex cables, 1 bundled up PCIe, and a long SATA power cable just sitting around, thanks to a non-modular PSU

Should also say, I'll be building in a SFF case.
Both mean space savings in regards to semi VS fully, but can't seem to think of any reason to specifically get a fully modular.

Full modular unless you're using every single non removable cable

I'm new to SSDs, plan on buying one for my current build to make it feel smoother or whatever.
Only going to add a few programs on top of Windows, nothing too large.
I already have a USB 3.0 16GB zip disquette with a whole bunch of portable programs on it.
Probably all I'd have on it are Windows and these:
>Piriform suite
>MSI Afterburner
>MPC
>SVP
>Something for when I get into programming

Now, with that in mind, which would be better, both from the same store nearby.
>$75 AUD for 250GB M.2 Crucial MX500 (Only chose this because it's $1 cheaper than the 2.5" variant)
>$99 AUD for 500GB 2.5" Crucial MX500
I chose this store because it's a short drive away so saves on postage/shipping, where postage/shipping would add another $10-20 on any other SSD I could get online.

Just canceled my 970 evo+ order because I am too poor to buy it

Nooooooo you need 16GB of VRAM or all games next year wont work on your computer!
Luckly AMD just released a card that is future proof at a mere 800$ you too can have a card that will last you at least a year!

Reminder to check the sources for yourself, check prices for yourself and not just eat up what ever an image tells you.

your setup disgusts me on many levels

depends on your GPU. You should aim for 3000-3200 and the lower CL the better, 3200 CL14 being great.

>I've had i5s. I shilled for them long enough. The i5 is dead. Long live the Ryzen 5.
>I have shilled before
>Now I shill for another company
>or so the claim goes
>at the very least I shilled for 2 companies by my own words
>and I shill for at least 1 company based on my actions right now

>BUT IM NOT A SHILL GUYS

Mostly a newb to RAM and shit here
I keep seeing that faster, low latency RAM is "essential" for optimal performance with Ryzen
However, if I've got a 2400MHz CL14 kit (How much could I sell this for realistically?), is it worth trying to sell it to buy a 3000MHz CL15 or better?
Also, do I still have to worry about QVL compatibility? I'll still check them when considering different RAM kits, but I'm on a B350F Strix mobo, planning to drop down to an MSI B450i mobo to buy a different case.
Some examples of kits I found for what seems like otherwise not terrible prices
>G.Skill Sniper X 2x8 3600MHz 19-20-20-40 for ~$185 AUD
>Patriot Viper 4 2x8 3733 17-21-21-41 for ~$210 AUD
>Patriot Viper 4 2x8 3400 16-18-18-36 for ~$205 AUD
I'd still try and either tighten timings or raise clocks, but for the most part, these are some of the better 3200+ kits it seems.

8gb Sapphire Nitro+ rx580
CL16 3200mhz fine? CL14 for the same ram is $65 more :/

CL14 would perfectly justify $65 more as far as I'm concerned.
And keep in mind you'll most likely achieve better than the advertised 3200/CL14.

I mean if it'll boost the performance that much, I guess I'll go for it. Suppose the extra $65 wouldn't really break the bank.

Only you can say if it's worth it, but B-die is basically wonder ram so there's that.

I got the 19-20-20-40 Ripjaws running at 3200 15-16-17-21(??). Quite good for the price. Raising clock won't work most likely, since not many IMCs can handle 3600+ well, but lowering clocks/tightening the timings to find a sweet spot is definitely a good idea.

What are the best overall benchmark tests in the same vein of cinebench? cinebench scores consistently get worse and worse for me no matter what I change, so I'd like to try something else.

You don't need that massive dark rock pro 4. Just get the normal dark rock pro with a single fan.

You're gonna love it. I recently built my first pc and being able to pick free games pretty much whenever I want makes it all worth it.

I was told yesterday that it would increase games by 2fps... is that worth $65? I wouldn't think so.

cl14 3200 is B-die ram, which I myself am running at 3400 CL14 with tightened timings.
On intel it's unnecessary, but on ryzen, the performance drops a lot with shit ram.
Is it worth 65$, good question, to answer that you should compare how much other components cost in relation.
Generally speaking GPU>CPU>RAM, that is the best way to spend money to get best performance in vidya.
If you have a budget GPU, a budget CPU then premium ram is not a sane idea unless you plan to upgrade later.

HOLY FUCKING SHIT

asrockrack.com/general/productdetail.asp?Model=X470D4U#Specifications

a ryzen motherboard for non-manchildren. fucking finally

planning on a 2600X build. my friend will give me a h500 if i need it. would slapping a 280mm as a front intake be sufficient to benefit from the max possible PBO?

I wanted to rejoice with you but the VRM here looks absolutely atrocious.

is that a fucking 2 phase?

what does that mean? genuinely curious

That looks shit. Nothing wrong with a mostly black+grey motherboard. Just don't get one with all the edgy shit on, they exist.

The power delivery is extremely weak and forbids anything but stock settings and bottom to middle of the line CPUs.
I love green PCB masks but this board is really meant for office workstations with various appropriate features and nothing else.

>That looks shit
manchild
>Just don't get one with all the edgy shit on, they exist.
where, pray tell

>spend the day transferring files to an old hdd (smart says OK but the drive is old as fuck and smart used to say it had issues) as it was my only non fucked hard drive that wasnt full or needed to be cloned
>clone windows to ssd
>move pc to work area
>case has these retarded ssd mounts
>install it
>sata power cable is too short
>try and rearrange
>doesnt work
>power supply came with another
>impossible to plug it in without taking out the power supply
>install it now have 4 empty sata power ports
>reinstall the power supply
>plug in sata cable
>its got a bend and it bends into the case
>try it the other way, wont plug into the only free sata ports
>find another in the motherboard box
>install it
>cable management is even more of a mess than before due to all the different LED connectors the case and the AIO cooler want to use
>all this with the constant sounds and moving of the case and flexing of the motherboard and sata cables
i think i had like four panic attacks

i somehow doubt they'd go to the trouble of building a workstation motherboard that doesn't support, say, a 2700x

>manchild
epic
>where, pray tell
You don't deserve that information.

My thoughts, but unless an additional bunch of phases are hidden somewhere that's how it is.
Got to respect those fin stacks on the heatsinks, though. It really takes a professional market to start using half a brain and design a proper cooling system.