/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and monitor suggestions; click on blue titles to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>How to assemble a PC
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g

Want help?
>State budget & CURRENCY
>Post at least some attempt at a parts list
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs based on current pricing:
>Athlon 200GE - HTPC, web browsing, bare minimum gaming (can be OC'd on most mobos with the right BIOS)
>R3 2200G - Recommended minimum gaming
>i5-9400F/9600K - Great gaming CPUs
>R5 2600/X - Great multithreaded use CPUs
>i7-9700K - Extreme solution for absolute max FPS
>R7 2700/X - VM Work / Streaming / Video editing

RAM:
>Always choose at least a two stick kit; 2x 8GB is recommended
>CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3200CL16 is ideal
>AMD B and X chipsets and Intel Z chipsets support XMP

Graphics cards based on current pricing:
>Used cards can be had for a steal; inquire about warranty
1080p
>RX 570 8GB - good performance with great value
>GTX 1660 - standard
>RTX 2060 - high framerates (requires complementary CPU and monitor)
1440p
>RTX 2060 - standard
>RTX 2080 - high framerates (requires complementary CPU and monitor)
2160p (4K)
>RTX 2080 - standard
>RTX 2080Ti - better fit for 4K but expensive

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>Don't bother buying a new monitor for gaming unless it's 144Hz with adaptive sync
>A 256GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor
>Bottleneck checkers are worthless

Previous: >

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Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.de/dp/B07QL68TM4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_yBcWCbFJA9KJJ
pcpartpicker.com/list/khLb3b
youtube.com/watch?v=Jutjh5RqSWQ
twitter.com/AnonBabble

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*sip

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How do bequiet fans stack up to noctua?

im thinking about buying ssd, dont have one atm, is samsung the best or should i go for different brand?
also what is the difference between SAMSUNG 860 QVO 1TB and Samsung 860 EVO Series 1TB?
read and write speeds are listed as the same, but EVO have "3D V-NAND Flash" after the name? what does that mean?
is it worth paying more for the EVO ?

What difference is there between these two tiers? My autism doesn't want to give to Intel because they're one of the biggest corporations I've known from the Boycott Israel movement (they even have a plant on ethnically cleansed and confiscated land).
I'm honestly not trying to preach, I recognize caring to this extent is extremely autistic. Thinking of spending that extra $200 on the 4k meme, or maybe just two separate monitors entirely.

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Well, ethnically cleansed and confiscated land is a based and redpilled place to build a plant to be quite desu with you, but that aside I understand wanting to boycott Israel.

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>is samsung the best or should i go for different brand?
They're good but a little overpriced.
>what is the difference between SAMSUNG 860 QVO 1TB and Samsung 860 EVO Series 1TB?
Endurance and speed in extreme circumstances. You'll probably never reach the point where you kill the EVO with write cycles but in 5-10 years you'll probably be able to kill a QVO. We dont really know that yet though since QLC hasnt been on the market long. Samsung doesnt seem to be game to warranty it for more than 3 years though.
> EVO have "3D V-NAND Flash" after the name? what does that mean?
Just a manufacturing technique, pretty much all flash on the market nowadays is 3D, including QVO so it's basically irrelevant
>is it worth paying more for the EVO ?
It's up to you, i dont think it's cheaper enough for something so unproven, but it's probably not going to crap out on you in under 5 years, or at least if it does it'll be something other than the NAND which could have happened with the EVO anyway

Looking at the /pcbg/ builds your builds are very different. Is this something specific about the 2600X, or does logicalincrements overestimate how powerful your CPU needs to be for games?

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People on Jow Forums would throw a shit fit if you called a 2600X midrange because there are some people hanging around here that still use CPUs from last decade.
It's just a different culture. The true high end almost doesnt exist here. We certainly dont see many 9900K+2080ti guys come through at least. Hell I don't see many people with 2700Xs in the speccy threads despite seeing it in about 100 builds here over the last few months

is $45 worth +10fps average and minimums?

From last night's thread Is this a good build for game development?

amazon.de/dp/B07QL68TM4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_yBcWCbFJA9KJJ

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>Make - M & M COMPUTER
>Storage - 500GB SSD M.2 Serial ATA-600
>Processor - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1920X (12 Cores)
>RAM - 32 GB DDR4 SDRAM
>Drives - DVD/CD-RW
>Video Card - Nvidia GTX 1660 6GB PCI-E
>OS - Windows 10 Professional

>EUR 1.549,00

How's the price?

You can use a search engine to look for "Productname vs Productname" in cases like this, but if you can't live with yourself supporting Intel, just get the 2700X. I'm happy with mine.

You can develop games on a commodore 64.
If you dont already have an idea what you need to upgrade you're probably not going to be doing any actual work.

>You can develop games on a commodore 64.

How do you test 3D graphs on a Comodore 64? Fuck off.

A bit weird build IMO. You can do gamedev even on potato laptops if you really want to. Required specs really depend on target platform. Even some old GTX 6XX would probably work fine for mobile gamedev.

Threadripper is a bit too much. 6/8 cores is enough really. Stuff like lightmap baking might benefit from more cores, but that's not something that you're doing often.
32GB ram is fine. You can get away with 16 if you're mostly just coding stuff, but 32 is still recommended for modeling/building/baking.
1660 is kind of OK, but I would pick something with RTX probably.

>but 32 is still recommended for modeling/building/baking.

I'll be doing that. Thanks for your advice, useful user.

alright, thanks for responding, ill go for the EVO then
>They're good but a little overpriced.
what else would you recommend?

The Crucial MX500 is 99% the same speed and everything as a 860 EVO and you can usually find it about $10-$20 cheaper. Also 5 years warranty.
It's a good option if you want to save a bit. But there's not much savings to be had in the SSD market, hence why a lower quality technology like QLC is only around 25% cheaper than TLC ssds

Running a ATI X1650 given to me yesterday since my R7 260X has problems. Is a R9 290X worth it? I only game in 1360X768 (HDTV) can get one for around 200$ CAD

Take the 1950X barely more expensive

Is the amount of CPU threads negligible compared to the amount of VRAM and the kind of GPU being used?

I cross compared the hardware i want with benchmarks and gameplay videos but i want to make sure i'm not fucking up with either GPU or CPU

I mean the SSD should mitigate any performance drops due to 4 threads less in both desktop and gaming environments right

Should I go with a Ryzen 5 2600 or an i5 9400F?

Currently they're the same price, but I'm really stuck.

Will be used for gaming and audio work, both in equal measures.

in that case you should go with the intel

2600 is the better overall cpu. Especially multitasking. Cheaper future proof boards too if you get a decent b450 board.

Thinking about buying the GTX 1650 because I love to be FUCKED by NVIDIA anally?
Would this be a good choice for the described purpose?

Nah, pick a 1050Ti instead.

After which graphics card cpu combination do you start to see diminishing returns per dollar invested in a pc? What are the sweet spot combos?

They're trading blows in terms of perfs in gaming, the Ryzen has marginally better 1% and .1% lows but Intel generally has better latency for audio works. You'd be spending an extra $30 on RAM for Ryzen, but you'd also spend an extra $30 on the Intel CPU for a quality cooler because that shit Intel provides is grabage. I'd personally pick neither because WAIT FOR ZEN2™, but I'd rather pick an AMD overall because of the upgradable platform and more threads.

>After which graphics card cpu combination do you start to see diminishing returns per dollar invested in a pc?
Anything more expensive than consoles. You're doing for the enthusiasm because you like gaming on PC, not because it's always cost effective. Otherwise, 1080p60FPS because decent monitors are cheaper.

Both the 1050Ti and the 1650 are garbage for the money.
Grab an RX 570 instead.

does an i5 4690k need an upgrade any time soon for 1080p gayming?

What's faster:
2x 1Tb 2.5" hdds raid 0
Or
1x 2Tb 3.5" hdd

Well he did say he wanted to be fucked deep with no lube.

>RAID0
>At such capacities
What the fuck user. Why?

raid or the capacity doesn't matter since it can't go faster than the rated speed of the drive.

what matters with an hdd isn't capacity or the physical size, but rather the speed. Most range from 5400 rpm to 7200 rpm, though there are some absurd 10k rpm models, but then I imagine you'd start to worry about reliability

No.

for pre-2016 games? not likely.
anything newer? Yes. Modern games LOVE having 8 or more threads or they start stuttering.
Either grab a used i7 to replace your i5, or replace the entire platform with Ryzen.

Sweety, I wouldn't be giving anyone else lube advice if I were you. Your anus was split so wide by Nvidia raping you that archaeologists mistook it for an ancient monument to explore.

9400f

Downsides of buying a used gfx card that was used for mining?

Is your reading comprehension defunct? If not, here's your (You), I'll gladly oblige.

No warranty, and no guarantee it was used sensibly. Basically you can very well end up with a door stopper quite easily. It also has to be a better GPU than a 570/580, because those are already quite cheap new.

1070ti for $200, but the mining part is making me hesitate.

Budget: £1000
Currency: GBP
Uses: 1080p Gaming, computational chemistry, web browsing. Probably VMs in the future once Windows /really/ goes to shit.
Desired characteristics: Low noise, durability/reliability easy cleaning, mild overclocking for fun.

Current build (2012):
>FX-6300 @4.6Ghz
>GTX 660 (Windforce)
>Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3
>Xigmatek Dark Knight Rev. 1
>2* WD Blue 1TB (will be reused)
>XFX 550W

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I bought a sapphire 580 that had definitely been used to mine. It worked well for a few months then started throwing some weird errors (glitchy textures), then started just cutting out randomly. Eventually it stopped booting altogether. I know everyone says it should be fine, but I won't be buying another mining GPU.

.
Capacity wasn't the focus
Both configurations cost roughly the same and give/take up the same space with a 3.5" dual hdd adapter, If dual 2 5" hdds in raid are faster then 1 3.5" hdd then why not take that raid performance boost if the reliability isn't too much of a risk? This is more of a consideration with small pc cases..

I spent around £800 to play 1440p 60fps. At 1080p I hope you mean high refresh m8

No need for the Noctua cooler. AMD provides a decent Wraith Spire box cooler made y Cooler Master.

also, change the motherboard. The Gigabyte VRMs are trash compared to MSI or Asrock.I would recommend grabbing the MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon/AC, that way you can also cut out the wireless card.

Not fond of the case, but that's personal choice.

form factor has no effect on speed.
Speed (rpm) has an effect on speed.

Remove the Noctua cooler, pic better RAM, you can use a 650W PSU instead, get a AsRock Pro4 or a MSI Tomahawk. The wireless card is shit so as said, you could get a MSI Pro Carbon instead.

What about platter counter?

Forgot to mention that you need to drop that ram with ryzen. You want 3200mhz ideally, it doesnt cost much more. Your cpu cooler and psu are both great but overkill. Could you not get a 2600 and a cheaper cooler?

no effect on speed either.

Interesting. So you're telling me that even if I was physically limited to using ether one 3.5" hdd or two 2.5" hdds in raid 0 there would be no performance difference?

Thanks guys. I'm skeptical of the Wraith

You can always add another cooler later on, so it's not dramatic if you don't get one yet. I'm more partial to fat 1TB drives for the system considering the current SSD prices, but 500GB is fine. What I meant is that you could've been spending your money better on stuff that's more worth it like better RAM or even GPU.

assuming both the 3.5" and 2.5" drives were the same rated speed, yea

The Wraith coolers can handle a mild overclock. It's fine.

In both cases if one drive fails, you lose everything. So RAID0 doesn't make much sense with such small capacities considering storage prices.

Thanks guys. I'm very skeptical of the Wraith Spire cooler; havben't exactly heard good things re. noise. As for the mobo; will do. I've had great experience with Gigabyte on my current board but they have lost it in recent years (hence the move away from their GPU coolers).

At present the 750W is only £5 more than the 650W.

Yeah but can they do it quietly?

>I've had great experience with Gigabyte on my current board but they have lost it in recent years (hence the move away from their GPU coolers)
You should always judge on a product per product basis. Gigabyte has for example the best Z390 VRMs currently, but they also made some garbage like the Vega56 cooler. It's always quite variable.

>At present the 750W is only £5 more than the 650W.
Oh yeah, then defo pick the 750W.

>Yeah but can they do it quietly?
As said earlier, it's not a huge priority.

Whatever you were running a 260X in probably doesnt have the power delivery/cooling needed for a 290X.

>Yeah but can they do it quietly?
I have a Wraith Prism on my 2700X and it's pretty goddamned quiet.

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>does an i5 4690k need an upgrade any time soon for 1080p gayming?
Probably not, but only if:
- You're aiming for 60fps
- 4690k is overclocked
- You have a good memory (or at least overclocked)

And you also need a nice GPU. Nothing will deliver smooth performance with some 1060/3GB and 8gb of RAM.

>You want 3200mhz ideally, it doesnt cost much more
It costs $20 more, and considering the negligible performance gain it has(0~5%), I think that's money saved.

yea i want 60 fps but i dont want to switch to ryzen if the improvement in performance is negligible so im waiting for gen3 i guess

For M.2 SSDs (that I feel comfortable using) the price/GB seems pretty stable.

>As said earlier, it's not a huge priority.

It is for me. Call me a boomer but thermodynamics is a harsh mistress; there's only so much one can do with design before you need to add more metal. The Spire, especially with its "gimped" downward fan design, would have a hard time defeating a tower cooler even if JPL designed it.

Will using faster RAM necessitate manually overclocking it? I've tried overclocking the RAM on my current build and have had no luck whatsoever; don't want to get into that unless new BIOS make it more reliable.

>It is for me
No, I meant that the CPU comes with a cooler that's pretty good, so there's no harm in trying it first, then if you're really not happy consider a Noctua or extra case fans. I understand your point, I have a Define R4. It's just that you can always try, it costs very little to just try. A bit of your time to mount/unmount it, and the thermal paste is already pre-applied. Unless you already possess a great cooler that is.

True dat. I'll try it out then.

Why are there so many anti semites here? Intel is just better

depends on the motherboard. Most new mobos have an option that does ram OC'ing for you.

read your mobo specs sheet.

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Winnie the Pooh 劉曉波动态网自由门
Fuck off, chang

AMD is cheaper so people feel the need to justify their purchases. The simple fact is, if you want quality, expect to pay the premium.

If i read psu review for its 750W version does said review apply to its 650W version?

Are there any confirmed tests that overclocking the cpu/ram wears your components out quicker? I don't really care that much about the performance gain from overclocking, but if it has no impact on the life span on my parts, then why not? The only thing I can confirm myself is that the global temp increases by a few degrees.

No. You can usually assume the overall quality is comparable but components will differ and any measurements don't apply.

It does wears components quicker, but if you're not going over recommended voltages, have a decent cooling and not using your system for some crazy 24/7 100% loads, you're good.
I mean it's not that much of a problem if you will have to reduce clocks by 100MHz or even 200MHz after 10 years of usage.
Haven't ever heard about RAM wearing off tho. It's usually pretty low on temperatures. Even overclocking kits get lifetime warranty.

Amd r5 2600x and GTX 1660(ti) is the sweet spot right now for 1080p gaymen.

Does anything pop out as obviously being retarded here?
Still going to do some price comparisons on other sites but this is it, this is everything except a 4TB Seagate hard drive I already have.

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Why is there an external network adapter?
Its too hard to buy a motherboard with built in wi-fi?

Any recommendations for a cheap mouse? Don't need RGB gamer lights and no rubber grip cause that shit turns all tacky after a while. My logitech G102IC has developed double click issues after a year

nevermind the fucking wifi adapter and look at the god damn chinkshit SSD that will be corrupted or dead in half a year

EVGA's single fan gpus take up 3 expansion bays
Which is fine for that board, you're probably never going to use the extra PCIe 2.0x16

Get an m.2 sata3 SSD, the board supports it. Less cabling and mounting to worry about.

WIFI is only on itx or atx boards. No AM4 mATX with wifi for some reason. But with how much they're spending on the network adapter, may as well go with a motherboard that has it.

EVGA 1600W PSU or Corsair 1600W PSU?

Seasonic

>pcpartpicker.com/list/khLb3b

Hey guys! Almost done with the comp. I finally pulled the trigger and bought these parts. I'd love some help finishing the last parts.

When booting two things happen.
1-The monitor displays DP no signal briefly then displays nothing.
2-The tower itself goes through a cycle of starting up and turning off. It just goes 100% quiet+the power light on case turns off.


I've tried replugging monitor, resetting cmos on mobo, discharging char in the tower monitor unplugged, using vg(gpu) to vg cable (monitor), using DVI(gpu) with hdmi adapter then hdmi to hdmi(monitor).

I believe this is all. I'll look things over again and refresh info.

get a board with better VRM, see

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Did you plug in the 8pin to the GPU?

>hyper212
idiot

unplug everything except cpu gpu and 1 stick of ram and try turning it on. test the ram stick in each slot and do the same with the other stick.
then unplug all power cables and reconnect them and make sure they're all in the place they should be.
take it apart completely and assemble again.

Yes that is plugged in firmly.

Gonna do this, boss.

That hyper 212 blocks me from putting the ram in slot 1. I tried 2+3 and 3+4.

You should try 2-4. Those others are not dual channel, although it shouldn't cause the PC to not the even boot.

Take off the fucking fan then, it's not like it's permanently attached. Bend the plastic retainer a smidge: it'll hinge off easily, seat the ram, and shimmy the fan as close to the ram as it will go, the fan doesn't need to be dead center on the heat sink.

If the heatsink itself is blocking the ram slots, then please stop and reconsider your life choices.

you help support the faggots that took all the gpus off the market and raised the prices sky high for years.

5....4.....3.....2......1
Lift off
youtube.com/watch?v=Jutjh5RqSWQ

based

Can somebody tell me how many team slots there are on this motherboard. I'm kind of a noob to pcs

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Not him, but is $10-20 cheaper that big of a deal to get a quality brand?

nothing is wrong with hating intel for their ties to israel, especially now that all of their CPUs have a backdoor to israeli spying agencies through the management engine

if you're going to fall for the 4k meme games are 100% cpu bound anyway, so anything you get will give you 4k60fps

stop using a fucking 212 on an almost $900 system you fucktard.
and i said ONE stick of ram.
you only need ONE to boot. you dont need a boot drive to get into BIOS, you dont need any front panel connectors, or anything else, just CPU, graphics and ONE stick of ram to troubleshoot.

Samsung also has like 40% higher longevity (40+ TBW more than that MX500)

Which would better complement a GTX 1080; a 1080p/144hz monitor, or a 1440p/144hz monitor? I know I wouldn't be able to get high framerates on newer games on ultra on the 1440p, but I've never experienced high refresh rate in the first place so I'm not sure how much I value that. Is the difference in clarity going from 1080p to 1440p more or less noticeable than the difference in motion going from 60hz to 144hz?