Some audio

take a break from huawei shilling
post your listening tech
no bully

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Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=wO61kQXyIqE
aimp.ru/
youtu.be/Jpc0rMKeIec
nl.tdk-lambda.com/KB/B84113-Full-Datasheet.pdf
gikacoustics.com/product-category/acoustic-art-panels/
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-monoprice-hybrid-tube-amp.7513/
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-dayton-audio-apa-150-amp.6571/#post-146828
projectrepair.blogspot.com/2013/08/project-mistral-mm-1-hybrid-tube.html
twitter.com/AnonBabble

youtube.com/watch?v=wO61kQXyIqE

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AIMP
aimp.ru/

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Speakers are Technics SB-CS7

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Speakers - Edifier r1010bt
Sound card - fx audio DAC x6
Headphones - Sennheiser hd280 and shp9500
Music - flac rips from streaming web site(I audio scan them to make sure they're legit flac rips, and they are)

It's about as "good" as you can get without spending more than $400 total. I wish I had dropped more money on better speakers tho. The next step up from the r1010bt on Edifiers store are significantly better.

Speakers?

I just use these, not half bad for gaming headphones

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interesting well rounded BT combo
most headphones these days are competently made, its mostly the price staging

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Is that your wife

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speakers huawei-p20 lite smartphone speakers

>FiiO X5 3rd Gen
>Soundmagic in ear
I had beyerdynamics but the fucking thing broke

How's that pressing of Emotion Side B?

Pretty damn good, I couldn't find a flaw.

A


FUCKING


SMARTPHONE

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Reminder that this is a professional speaker cable and anything that pretends to be more professional than this is a scam

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>post your listening tech
ok
>home
Speakers: noname boxes with 9" speakers
Sub: 30Kg DIY 12" active 300W
Amp: JVC AX-R742. It's a nice amp.
soundcard: Scarlet 2i2 first gen. But I mostly use it as ADC because the cables to connect it to my amp isn't long enough so I only use it as DAC when i'm recording
DAC: motherboard's realtek chip
media: 70GB of FLAC and MP3, few hundred of CD

>headset
some small and light AKG I don't remember the model name

>pic related
some part of our live stuff. These aren't mine. We also have a couple of low-end 180W active speaker.

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amp/dac: schitt modi/magni combos from like 6 years ago, probably wouldnt have bought it nowadays but at the time there was very little at that price point, they still werk fine so see little reason to upgrade
headphones: sennheiser 518, also like 7 or 8 years old, just replaced the pads with some cheap chink ones from ali, sound is showing its age a bit but still usable, might get some hd600 at some point
stereo: some old ass technics amp and speakers from like the 80s or early 90s, hand me down from my mom, it also has a cd unit, a radio one, a tape deck one and a record player but I rarely use those, just the aux with my phone

youtu.be/Jpc0rMKeIec
It's tech house (psyche)

unique graphic display
quite rare in receivers

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internals also pretty good with nice heat sinks

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>It has a built-in digital EQ
FTFY

yes, it's quite nice. Probably the only good thing in my audio setup.

>unique graphic display
>quite rare in receivers
yeah because they now have more advanced equalization

pic

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Get raped and kill yourself, you retarded fucking faggot sack of nigger shit with down syndrome.

Is there any point of using something like this for making a filter for power (and is there any point for using power filter in the first place)?
nl.tdk-lambda.com/KB/B84113-Full-Datasheet.pdf
Feels like I would get nothing, but if there is potential benefit it won't hurt wallet.

Which phones offer high quality sound?
I need something at least 24bit audio chip with 192khz
>inb4 xiph autist
I noticed samsung phones sounded nicer than every PC realtek card out there. Intel audio cards also fare better than every PC audio cards I've used but phones that have good audio cards are somewhat better. Samsung used to use Yamaha chips for its audio and it almost sounded like it's on DSP and able to handle 32 ohm and above rated drivers. I even had a DSP app from cyanogen rom that could turn up the bass 200% and hear no rattling while on PC or cheap non 24bit phones start to fuck it up due to inability to meet the rated watts RMS/power limits.
The bass sounds fuller and the sounds are also much more separated with a 3D test. It also doesn't have the "left side is weaker" problem that sub $80 phones have due to ability to supply the rated watt RMS.
192khz meme "you won't hear it anyway" is a con that just dismisses the fact that the audio quality depends on the power of the audio card to handle fast signal of lows-highs and meet the power rating (how much the driver/speakers need to power properly).

TL;DR
I need a phone that has powerful audio card. Not the cheapshit they use on sub $80 phones.
Also, which brands are good right now. I don't like samsung due to the shit AMOLED.

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>even the volume knob lights up

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ZTE Axon 7 and 7 mini have 32bit/192khz
Don't know about other new models as I got the mini and I'm satisfied with it. It also records very good sound from concerts.

so?

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wheres the jack

and the volume knob is motorized if you change the volume with a IR remote
this is some rad shit for the 80s

1/4

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2/4

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3/4

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4/4

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marantz "consumer tier" models are better for music than most compatible receivers

I used to have an old stereo PM30 that would shit all over this thing, alas, prohibitively expensive to repair.

Finally cleaned up my wires and wrapped them in some white tech flex. At some point want to get acoustic panels but don't want my living room to be completely ugly so want to look into some art panels or something.

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\If you research it, you will find that towels are better than any of those bullshit foam panels. Obviously you don't want towel racks or picture frames with towels in. Maybe try tapestries?

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Someone with two subs! Can you please try an experiment for me? I have always wanted to know if it's better to have:
>two LFE subs
or
>stereo L+R subs
or (I really need to know this one!)
>1 sub on LFE channel and 1 sub on center channel

its probably hard to make a 5.1 avr as good as a 2.0 for about the same production cost

with that generous wall space all you need is a projector and some stylish drapes to make a home theatre

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>projector
>room full of light
For less money than a bright projector and./or light blocking window treatments you can get a fuckhuge TV. I love the "idea" of a projector, but in reality they're mostly a let down in all but the most single focused home theatres.

Yeah no foam... I think that looks really bad. I was thinking of something like this: gikacoustics.com/product-category/acoustic-art-panels/ using some nice artwork (tbd).

If a tapestry would work just as well I'd be open to that for sure. I think in order to have an useful effectiveness I'd need the panels to extend below the speakers and it makes more sense to have certain types of "artwork" do that, like a tapestry.

Bass is omnidirectional, below about 100Hz, and mine are crossed at 80Hz. The LFE channel is using my subs independently, but it's only one discrete channel, the only difference is they have some slightly different EQ from Audyssey. For modern surround soundtracks, you just want your speakers to be bass managed through the LFE channel.

My old setup was a projector before I bought this house. There are so many windows it is pretty hard to have enough light control. I have lots and lots of glass, including windows near my ceiling. I miss a projector big time, I even thought about having an electric screen that drops down, but in the summer its not dark here until 8:30 and I'm in bed by 10 hah.

Yeah, that photo is literally taken with no lights on. I'm hoping these microLED panels that are modular come down in price within the next couple years. Be awesome to have a 100"+ scope screen no projector. Probably going to be a while though.

OK, so in your opinion, changing to L+R or LFE+C would make no difference? I would also like to try front/rear subs but I can't see that happening as easily. Just to be clear, I understand I wont "hear" the bass from a different location as easily, it's more about hearing two different channels of bass if that makes sense.

signal over noise and distortion

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>Schitt products

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It would actually make things worse.

Yeah, you are talking about it being discrete, but the nature of bass makes it kind of purposeless to have multiple discrete low frequency channels. The movies are mixed into an LFE, so straying from that will not be ideal. You should always use bass management in the AVR and set your speakers to "small" (regardless of how big they are, that just tells it to cross over to the subs for the low end). Unfortunately this is not always the default setting and several manufacturers still insist on setting speakers to “Large” or “Full Range”, or the auto wizard screws up and sets it that way. Doing so will prevent bass from being redirected to your subwoofer from the satellite channels. Audyssey (or YPOW or whatever your manufacturer uses) has the additional benefit of much better low frequency correction because MultEQ uses filters with more resolution in the subwoofer channel.

In modern surround content (dolby digital, true HD, atmos, etc), there is an additional bass-only track called the LFE track. This is not played from the main speakers, but only from the subwoofer. This track is authored to have content up to 120 Hz, generally we cross over at 80Hz or 90Hz and that works well because it isn't a brick wall it's a slope .

Trying front and back placement is great, it's not ideal to have both in the front that's just my only option right now. If you have a rectangular room try front left corner and rear right corner. You want to just get the bass UNIFORM, then you can EQ it to flat. So you move the subs around until they have a pretty similar response, even if it isn't flat, then that allows the EQ to equalize them to flat easier for better total room response.

this chart is from this site which may btfo some audio enthusiasts
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php

Everything you said there makes perfect sense however most of it is aimed at a modern powered sub.

My speakers are all vintage, my sub (only 1 lol) is passive so none of those settings work for me, I have to turn LFE off and use front L+R on "full range" wired through the subs in/out high power posts. If I ever do update to a powered sub or a second passive I will follow your advice. Cheers!

audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-monoprice-hybrid-tube-amp.7513/

funny and tragic review

No problem. My subwoofers are passive too! Even with a passive subwoofer you can use bass management, just go Receiver LFE > Amplifier > Subwoofer.

The bottom amplifier in this picture powers my subwoofers. The unit that says dbX on it I use as a limiter (so I never have to worry about overdriving the amplifier or subwoofers).

Eventually I'd like to get some powered subs myself, thinking of a pair of Power Sound Audio 18" vented. I like my current ones though, but the newer DSP subwoofers have really impressive performance.

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Dayton Amp gets an okay review:
audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-dayton-audio-apa-150-amp.6571/#post-146828

Emotiva possibly BTFO

>no bully
>bully

>audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-monoprice-hybrid-tube-amp.7513/

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Actually I'm glad you replied. I still have an old lower quality amp i could "re-purpose" as a woofer amp instead of putting it outside or in the shed. Then utilize the LFE pre out on my marantz and take advantage of all the digital crossover goodness. Although I have a feeling the Mordaunt short engineers knew how to make a good crossover, there's no way they could have known back then that a .1 track was in the future.

Nice pic related, I was going to ask about your rack but didn't want to pry.

projectrepair.blogspot.com/2013/08/project-mistral-mm-1-hybrid-tube.html
>6.3V tube heaters being fed 8.5V
ouch

the guy is totally without mercy but i think audio needs that

also this funny chart

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great blog - i wonder how many audio users have that level of technical skill and determination to fix things - i know i don't

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Still rocking these classics hooked up to a tube amp on my rig.

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sick

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Does anyone use the Version 2 of this
SMSL SH-8
Can you tell me if you like it, etc.

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Its pretty funny to see HP Laptop beating out some relatively expensive stand-alones.

in that chart there are minimal diffs between dacs costing 10k and a decent one thats 150 used

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hp shitbox ftw!

Is it worth keep using an old esi julia pci soundcard? How good is it compared to modern built in audio? My new modo don't have any pci slots so it wont be pretty. Chink pcie-pci adapter, wires from ide cables and custom mounting brackets.

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those are sonus faber

Looks to be out of spec/defective. Perhaps a better result with a new unit. Or not, as it's still a cheap valve amp.

If you only want it for DA conversion to typical connectors, you should probably save yourself the hassle and not bother.

>Looks to be out of spec/defective. Perhaps a better result with a new unit. Or not, as it's still a cheap valve amp.
Owner said he had already returned it twice with issues.

Samsung 300W soundbar/woof with an ASUS Impresario amp/DAC for out louds, ATH M20X wired cans for home listening, JBL E45 bluetooth on-ears for travel, Symphonized NRG 2.0 earbuds for just farting around town. UE Boom 2 portable travel speaker.