/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Not necessarily a direct response but now that we know 450's and 470's are going to be zen 2 and 3 compatible, is it worth upgrading my Pro 4 to the MSI motherboard? Will I be losing out on anything but upgrading now?

Actually, a better way of framing this question: I am travelling to China and also building a PC. I need this PC to run sims. I will not play games. I think I will use a Ryzen 9 3900x. I am unsure if I will install 128gb or 256gb of RAM

Which components can I safely and cheaply purchase while in mainland China?
For which components is it more economic to purchase in HK than in Australia (I'm going to assume all)?

daily reminder
youtube.com/watch?v=pq0MLtjFS1A

No, onboard audio is good enough for pretty much everything nowadays.

Also is Newegg refurbished safe to buy?

The reason I asked was, I'm going to buy the cheapest mic I can (Zalman ZM-MIC1) and people say that running it out of onboard results in very very shitty audio for anyone listening.
Motherboard is MSI B450M Mortar if that makes a difference.

In that case the "bottleneck" is the microphone. Connect a shitty mic to an $800 sound card and you'll still get shitty audio. Get a better mic first, take the money you were going to spend on a sound card or whatever and buy a decent budget USB mic. $50 will get you plenty.

Yeah that's what I thought but there are people who are able to get a very good sound quality out of the ZM1 on youtube. If I could get that level of quality, that'd be enough. But I don't know whether just plugging it in directly would give me that.
I guess I'll just buy a ZM1 (its cheap as shit) and try it. If it is trash, I'll toss it and go for a USB mic.

What sata drive components do you feel are necessary for a complete desktop. Obvious ones are dvd/cd player and maybe a module to handle SD cards.

>dvd player

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It's 2019, who the fuck needs a dvd/cd player. You gonna add a cassette player too? Christ, optical drive fags are the lowest form of pc builder.

No, the lowest form of PC builder is analogue tape drive users.

>module to handle SD cards
arent those normally connected to the system via USB internally and wouldnt it just be easier to get a desktop card reader?

these days you dont really need a dedicated optical drive because for a few dollars more you can just get a USB one and share it between all your devices.

no not really HOWEVER if you have multiple audio devices then you can set one for media/game audio and the other as a communication device for voip related stuff. could plug your onboard into the main speakers and plug in a USB headset to get the same effect or buy an external DAC and plug your headset into the onboard audio.

What the other user said is correct.
Don't buy Gigabyte garbage.
Their fans are trash and you can clearly see that part of that heatsink is milled.

That design does not seem like it'd disappated that much heat.
The heat pipes are so close together and there's not much surface area.

R5 2600. Boards should further be going on sale soon with Ryzen 3000 releasing.

A dead or partially dead pixel near the edge is generally not covered.
A "good" warranty is one like Nixeus where they cover any dead or stuck pixel in the center half the the screen, but 3 or more have to be dead or stuck near the edges to be covered. Most other manufacturers coverage is far worse than that.

It's nice to have internal drives for reduction in wires.

My job sometimes requires data to travel via CD/DVD. Being able to access and burn is important to me.

Correct.

Sometimes onboard audio has poor DPC latency, which can hurt audio production, but general sound quality from them is fine now days.

To Buildzoid, a "good board" means its VRM can supply 300W on an open air bench (minimal VRM airflow) because he does LN2 overclocking.
That is not the needs of everyone else.
For everyone else, the Tomahawk is an ideal board because you can enable PBO on a 2700X (and presumably 3800X) and the VRM temps are fine and they are efficient.
Only thing that really overlaps is memory support, since 1.5v memory overclocks are actually worthwhile performance gains for the power increase.

VRMs that are the most efficient at 300W aren't going to be most efficient at 95-150W.

Check the return terms. IIRC they do have looser returns for open box. I've bought lots of newegg open box and been happy with it.

is this a good programming build, need it for web dev mostly, maybe some andorid/ios and game engine but like 15% of the time at most

2400g
lpx vengeance 3000mhz cl15 16gb
970 evo plus 512gb
1tb hdd 7200rpm
some shity power supply with good warranty
some shity box to put it in
and asus prime A320M-K

also 2 cheap monitors 1080p with 75hz refresh rate

hang on a second I'll build you a slightly better one

Current parts list - pcpartpicker.com/list/c8Vtvn
I want to downsize my computer to be more portable for personal reasons. In doing so, I wouldn't mind going for a few upgrades in the process for the sake of it.
I know if I were to sell stuff, it'd be at a loss, and I'm fine with that. Aside from keeping the RAM & retiring the HDD to get an SSD, what I had in mind was the supposed 3600G with an MSI B450i motherboard, and a case with enough room for a dGPU, just incase I ever have a reason for additional GPU horsepower.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

Am I retarded for applying thermal paste to the bottom of the heatsink, along its pipes rather than on the CPU?

Yes.

Fuck :D

You could use some higher speed RAM, APUs really benefit from it. Also consider upgrading to Navi, if it ends up being worth it. With that your PSU might need an update but that's a wait-and-see

Is this the Emily with the tattoo on her thigh or was that Erin I forgot.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/c8Vtvn
Thermaltake G3 is a small slim case which can use a full ATX motherboard.
You'll need a new SFX PSU, but otherwise you can keep all the same components without getting a new board and shit.

As long as you have complete coverage of the ihs and no spillover, you should be fine. Don't do that again tho, what possessed you to do it in the first place??

with the new Ryzen coming will there be any deals on the earlier chips?

Reminder that buying x570 will be a complete waste of money on anything but the 3900x
>likely to be very expensive
>PCIe g4 will be a meme unless you're using RAID on nvme SSDs
plus anything below the 12core has a

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Of course there will be. Why would someone pay $185 for the 2600X when they could get the 3600 that's faster, more efficient, and has PCIe 4.0 for $200?
B450 boards should be really cheap when B550 comes out as well.

Lmao?
>it will be expensive
People were paying $700+ for Z390 and 9900k combo and still a lot for Z390 and 9700k.

Yeah
>it will be expensive
because it's a legitimate enthusiast platform which can support 3x 5GB/s NVMe drives in RAID. It's expensive but actually worth the money.
If 8c/16t is all you need, then it's worth it for a 3700X/3800X.

In a fit of something, I thought about thermal paste and how it is squished between the CPU and the bottom of the heatsink.
You do your pea method and after the heatsink sits on top you end up with a circle of coverage on the CPU, which is good but depending on your heatsink (if the bottom of it is rectangular) it is wack because it is either:
A) The circle of coverage on CPU is too small so the corners of the heatsink are not covered
B) The circle is too big, the heatsink corners are covered but you end up with more coverage on the CPU side than necessary. So your CPU is covered with goo when you have the option for it not to be.
So I tried to approach it from the heatsink side. Thin lines across the heatsink bottom (4 pipes, 4 thin parallel lines). When they're squished they cover the heatsink surface entirely, which is the point.
Please don't make me draw a diagram and unleash further autism.

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Is there a pre-built, used or otherwise, under $150 that's compatible with a GT 710 graphics card? Would an Optiplex 790 work? I've heard of people having success with that machine/card combo. Anyone have experience with this card?

I bought this card and tried to use it in an ancient Core2 Quad pre-built. It's not compatible and shows no video output and isn't detected by Windows 7 or Ubuntu 19. Maybe I'm doing shit backwards but I might as well just buy a new desktop to go with the video card I just got.

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there you go, all in for 1000 of your finest American Dollars

would surely help if I link it
pcpartpicker.com/list/nF4FRJ

You can do the "4 lines" method on the CPU, it doesn't matter too much what the method of application is. See video youtube.com/watch?v=EUWVVTY63hc for a good comparison. Ultimately you're looking at maybe a couple of degrees in the best/worst case scenarios. The important part is to make sure the CPU dies are covered, the rest doesn't matter nearly as much.

Board manufacturers wouldn't make a gorillion different high end boards if they didn't expect to sell a lot of them. There must be a purpose to them other than powering the 12 core.

Why would you buy a 710?

so whats the actual use case of having 12 cores on a cpu?
other than big numbers big dicks

Had a small form factor desktop already and I don't play video games. I just wanted a card good enough to do very light video editing and watch 1080p YouTube videos at the same time. Seemed like a good budget option for $65 and it's fanless, so there's less noise.

>only 1000 posts
oh no bros

If you have to ask then answers are wasted on you.

>so whats the actual use case of having 12 cores on a cpu?
>other than big numbers big dicks
Having a faster computer is nice. If you don't like cores why don't you get a single core and see how much fun you have using laggy applications.

yea i know that i dont need that shit but who does
video editing? idk

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I have an Asus Crosshair VI X370 motherboard. I will be getting the Ryzen R9-3900X and more than likely keeping my current board. I was thinking of liquid cooling this time around. Should I? Or should I just stick with air cooling?

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cucked nvidiot

She actually looks hot. First muslim who's ever turned me on.

It's not really worth doing but it is fun to do. So mostly if the cost is worth the hobby time. I'd wait to see the TDP and see if the VRMs can handle it. If all looks good go for it.

Watercooling is more of a hobby than a practical way of cooling a PC. It can achieve very quiet high end builds but it's hard to recommend to a friend.The costs add up very quickly and it turns changing a CPU or GPU from a 30 minute job to a 4 hour job.

I cannot believe how trash the Ryzen processors are. I will gladly purchase a i9 9900KS and be happy with my purchase.

yea I'm honestly lazy these days and I sort of hope air cooling will be OK. I have a 250w capable air cooler, so hoping that will be enough. Last time I liquid cooled was FX

I was reading up on liquid loops a bit and it seems that's the general consensus on loops. How far have AiO units come? Are they actually reliable any more?

What is the best 3D monitor that works with nvidia optimus on laptop? I used to have an nvidia 3d vision display and it was great for a few favorite games, but my new monitor (the successor, everything the same except more ports and IPS over TN) decided not to include 3D for whatever reason. I would like a cheap 3D monitor to get those features, and I don't want the playstation monitor as I owned one and it is junk.

best 1080p monitor for general use? I have a 144hz monitor for gaming, I just two more cheap ass monitors to park next to it.

AiO was always a meme for sff where you cant just slap a tower on your cpu. The point of custom loop is to have everything watercooled, not just the cpu.

What about old Lenovo thinkvision monitors? I got a good 24" 1200p for 180usd and that was 18 months ago. Probably cheaper now.

ah ic, well if you burn something more than once a month then i guess its nice to have a built in.

Don't bother with AIO. The loudest part of your PC is the GPU anyway.
Get a Morpheus II, a Noctua meme CPU cooler and a good case with lots of airflow (Consider Silverstone FT05). That's how you air cool quietly.

I'm building a PC for a computer-illiterate family friend to replace her 15+ year old Windows XP piece of shit. Very light usage, only word processing, light web browsing and looking at photos. I've tried to make it cheap yet still feel fast compared to the old one.

Any glaring errors?

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>1st generation AMD Ryzen™ processors with Radeon™ Graphics
Was there even a 1xxx G-series APU?

yea figured AiO was still that.
I have an EVGA RTX 2080Ti FTW3 Ultra. Pic related. I don't think the Morpheus would be worth it. I wonder if my card will even fit in the Silverstone...

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>16-core ryzen on a mini-stx board
>tfw you can get threadripper-level performance in a case smaller than a gamecube

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>To Buildzoid, a "good board" means its VRM can supply 300W on an open air bench (minimal VRM airflow) because he does LN2 overclocking.
>That is not the needs of everyone else.

not the point he was making all of the vrm's were pretty low quality

kill the hard drive and just make it a bigger SSD
Also why not buy a laptop?

It wouldn't surprise me if someone like EK makes a full cover mono-block to completely engulf the socket and entire VRM/chipset section on the mini DTX board.
>16c32t
>Potential for 64GB RAM (they actually make high speed, low latency 2x32GB kits)
>With rock bottom temps by a block completely covering the entire board.
>All in a tiny case
The future is NOW

302mm GPU in a case that supports 312mm GPUs. Should fit

Any details on the 16c Ryzen?
I hear that shit will need a 570x though no matter what.

Can anyone give advice on this?

that GT710 should work fine in damn near anything. There's no reason it shouldn't work with an older machine like that C2D. There may be an option that you have to switch in the BIOS to enable a dGPU rather than relying on the iGPU.
Think so. Probably due to sheer power requirements. the 16c32t model is going to be basically 2 binned 8 core chiplets sharing a die. If both are high clocked binned like the 3800X, that's 2x 105w tdp chips in a single socket. Something like that would start drawing a shit load of amps when being clocked.

Making a graphic design pc for our office. Will be mostly using Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. Build might be a little overkill but I think it should be good for a couple years at least.
pcpartpicker.com/list/BbcZV6

>kill the hard drive and just make it a bigger SSD
Thought of doing that. It's probably worth the extra cost just to have the C: drive and not worry about explaining how to install programs to the SSD and save files to the HDD.

>Also why not buy a laptop?
a) I was asked to replace the desktop
b) She already has monitor and peripherals
c) I don't know jackshit about laptops

some weird choices there but most importantly you should get a good monitor if you don't already have one

pcpartpicker.com/list/jj7DP3

Can someone recommend me a VESA mount?

what is this garbage

I'm using a ViewSonic VP3268-4K. I'll take some recommendations on that build I forgot to mention I have no idea what i'm doing.

amazon.com/Acer-Aspire-i3-8130U-Memory-E5-576-392H/dp/B079TGL2BZ/

Should I get this laptop or are there any better deals for under $500? And I was told to wait for summer because new stuff is coming out and price of previous gen will go down, is that true?

Should I even give much of a shit about 120+ Hz? I play some FPS games but I don't care very much if I get good at them, I usually get bored of them after 100 hours. I'm thinking of just getting a 4K monitor instead, they'll end up being cheaper and it will match my TV which I also use for PC games. Also, Freesync is still useful at 60 Hz too to reduce input lag, right?

amazon.com/Acer-Predator-XB271HU-Abmiprz-2560x1440/dp/B01N11QIYW/

Convince me not to throw my money away for a screen when I dont even play vidya

it's not just games. Even web browsing at higher refresh rate compared to 60HZ is jarring. I went from 1080p 60HZ basic bitch panel to my current 165HZ 1440p G-sync panel and it's like night and day. Freesync will help with reducing input lag compared to V-sync sure, but you're still limited to 60FPS. Even the jump from 60 to 75 is noticeable.

Supposedly overclocking the 16 core will draw as much power as overclocking a 9900k (~300W), so yes you'll need a good X570 board.
And almost every insider seems to indicate that it'll hit 5GHz.
Considering they're getting 105W TDP on the 2 die 12 core at 4.6GHz, that does sound reasonable.
So presumably it takes around 175-200W to OC the 8 core to 5GHz.
>the 16c32t model is going to be basically 2 binned 8 core chiplets sharing a die
The thing is that the 3900X probably has really good bins to begin with. It is likely 8 working cores where 2 cores keep it for clocking as high. Instead of being used as an 8 core chiplet for Epyc, they're using them as high end desktop chips.
But for the 3950X or whatever, they would be cannibalizing good Epyc dies which is why I don't think it'll launch unless Intel has some sort of answer to the 3900X... which they don't. 16 core mainstream might not come until Zen3

Just get a 2400G machine. It's incomparably better than that combo. You should be able to make one for around $225.

Yes, that's true. Wait for the 3700U laptops.
There were 2700U laptops on sale for under $500, but they didn't have as good power management as the new upcoming ones and they had bad iGPU drivers for the first year of launch.
If you don't care about power consumption and just want performance, you could just get a 2700U one now.

I'm afraid of getting too used to it honestly, I like to play games on the couch with a controller sometimes but my new TV is only 60 Hz.

Get the Acer V277U or whatever it's called. 1440p, 75hz, IPS. It's only around $220.

It does make like the mouse cursor a lot smoother, but 75hz is good enough.

>Yes, that's true. Wait for the 3700U laptops.
I don't mind waiting for a better laptop/deal as long as it lands within my budget. Just don't want to waste my money on something shit or buy something now and heavily regret it later because they put out something way better in a month/week for the same price or less.

Also what's the difference between a HDD and a SSD in these? Is the 250gb SSD really better than the 1TB HDD even though it has way less space for stuff?

Well I play some vidya, just nothing where framerate matters (fps)

nah I can get used to my TV/console at 60 FPS after a little. But when it comes to PC gaming, there's no contest.

best upcoming ryzen to pair with my 2070?

If I buy a 580 or a V56 TONIGHT how assmad am I going to be about Navi

I'll consider it, then. Maybe I'll go 1440p and high refresh rate instead of 4K. That should be plenty high enough for a 27 inch monitor.

Oh and one more question. Is the framerate jumping around still jarring even with Freesync? Say if I get a 144 Hz monitor but I can only get about 120 FPS in a game, should I just lock it to 120 FPS or let it fluctuate?

Looked around the BIOS on the Core2 Horrible Product (TM) PC. It's HP so of course it has a very limited BIOS setup. The PCIe x16 slot is enabled and the VGA controller is disabled. It didn't do shit. So I bought pic related. Wish me luck. Even if the GPU doesn't work it'll be a nice upgrade to what I have currently.

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Let it fluctuate. The FPS ups and downs aren't jarring at all as is the whole point of adaptive sync compared to V-sync. With V-sync, the monitor tells the GPU to wait until it's next frame is ready, where as with G/freesync, it's the opposite. The refresh rate of the monitor will lower or raise itself based on the GPU's current FPS. You'll want to enable v-sync though in games that you're able to exceed the max refresh rate of your monitor in FPS so you don't get screen tearing. A lot of games now actually have a frame limiter in their options menu, or you can also force a frame cap via Nvidia settings so you don't HAVE to use in game V-sync in lower graphics titles where you're getting 300FPS, i.e. CS:GO. Thus removing any input lag.

NVIDIA ONLY BELOW, YES INCLUDING RTX
Bear in mind. If you're going to use a high refresh rate monitor as your primary, and a lower refresh rate as your secondary, you have to make sure the refresh rates of each monitor are divisible by each other. I.e. set your main monitor to 120HZ via Windows options to better pair with your 60HZ secondary. This is because otherwise you'll get really shitty gaming performance and choppy video if one is at 75HZ for instance while the other is at 165HZ.

While that is an upgrade, the GT710 should have worked in the other machine. Odd. I have a GT710 in my server.

Thanks for the info. I already have a 60 FPS limiter in Rivtatuner anyway just so I don't overwork the GPU for no reason, even though I use V-sync most of the time anyway, just in case.
So on the second part, I do use a secondary monitor just for desktop stuff and it would be 60 Hz. This is only a G-sync issue, then? And does a G-sync monitor actually do anything better now that many Freesyncs are supported by G-sync? I have Nvidia but probably gonna get a Freesync in case I go AMD next time.