Your power supply can explode at any second

You don't use a cheap power supply for your computer right? You checked those caps lately?

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My PSU is 80 plus platinum, 100% japanese caps. It won't explode nowhere near the future.

Don't jinx yourself.

tfw bought a refurb

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Had a Corsair hx1000 running perfectly for 10 years. Was gonna put it in a new build, but decided to play it safe and buy another PSU for it

Experts all agree that the average consumer should replace their PSU every month or risk a painful death.

I laugh at people buying all the best parts and pairing it with a shitty nigger tier PSU.

My PSU was very cheap got it for myself for Christmas
rm750x I think I paid around 60 USD for it.
I love Jesus.

>It won't explode nowhere near the future.
So it will explode somewhere near the future?

Quality high wattage PSUs are so cheap compared the the parts you hook them up to, it's fucking stupid to cheap out and save $30-40 only to risk it blowing up and taking several hundred dollars worth of equipment with it.

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So what, it's enclosed in a metal shell with two big holes. If they go boom, I'll solder on new, better ones.

if they go boom the whole board is dead.

They literally have cuts at the top to lead the explosion upwards

Whatever. It is in metal box.

>swapped the fan for a silent one

I used a cheaptek for 8 years and it was fine.

So was reactor 4.

i grabbed a used pc out of the trash and was using it for about a year, then i heard something pop and rattle around. the mobo blew a cap lol. took me a while to find where the missing cap was on the mobo. fuckin retarded.

caps used to pop like popcorn on motherboards from last decade.

I bought my power supply in 2010.

Pull the power.
Evacuate the house.
Call the fire department.

10/10 underrated post.

It's been in 3 different builds so far.

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if you buy a decent psu it will easily last a decade

My PSU only has solid caps, no electrolytic shit.

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What's the name of your psu?

OCZ 650 watt, although platimun Bronze has been foing tosome 10 years now.

Also a Coolermaster 80+ gold that popped a cap after 5 years... recapped with jap caps and going great in my secondary gamer/media PC. Ain't gonna explode in the next century or so

Oldest I have is an original HP cheapo... vintage 1999 in my PIII retro PC... caps still gud ;)

Never had use for 1kW PSUs... SLI and crossfire is expensive BS anyways.

Caps exploding lead to either an open circuit that conducts no power or inadequate capacitance that causes the circuit downstream to shut down. Motherboard destroying failures have different causes, like a transistor going short circuit and causing regulation to fail thereby sending 120V down your 12V rails. If anything an exploding cap could be the only thing that cuts off the power in time to save anything.

>solid mains level filter caps
Did you have to take out a second mortgage for it?

>no electrolytic shit

Polymer caps are still electrolytic, get a brain moran

My RAIDMAX Cobra is top of the line. I have nothing to worry about, frog poster.

Fun fact, my ups blew up last week.

I doubt it. Not even the more expensive PSU are all solid caps.

Got a 750W SuperNova G3. I trust EVGA.

nice, you bit. Do a image search. The pic I posted are electrolytic caps.

don't mind me, just chadding it up

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I ain't worried, mine has 10 year warranty and it's only 6 months old.

So you were only pretending. But why do i need to do a reverse image search of a picture of electrolytic capacitors in order to confirm they are, in fact, electrolytic capacitors.

Rate me.

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I always imagine the PSU as the rapist inside the computer, forcing his juice into the other components and threatens to up the voltage if they don't comply.

Seasonic S12 II 520W
used to have CoolerMaster g550m but it was trash that was breaking each 3 months

my Corsair has been running strong since 2009 last 7 years 24/7

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H-henlo...

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When you have a laptop so you don't have a PSU.

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My nigger. S12 is the king of lowend PSUs.

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WHATS UP FUCKERS

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*creaking sounds*

no, they just make a lot of smoke.

It's an EVGA branded superflower design, I'm good.

>zoomer meme "when you..."
fucking kill yourself

I have coil whine for few minutes whenever i boot up my PC, am i fucked?

Nah, it was in concrete box. Metal box would save it.

I have this one. Is it trash? I though seasonic PSUs were good but brand names mean nothing nowadays.

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>Your power supply can explode at any second
I don't buy EVGA PSUs.

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Why are most anons in here using Corsair...

It's good quality for the price, about the same as corsair's RMx-series.

How is it different to TMW, TFW MFW?

it's the programming socks syndrome.
buy crap from a multicorp that makes mice, keyboards, mats, psus, coolers...
and by makes, we mean just oem shit with the corp sticker on it.

yeah instead of one giant bomb box you have two bomb boxes and a little bomb. you have an AC adapter/charger/P O W E R S U P P L Y, li-ion battery (read: literal bomb), and all of the PSU circuitry inside the laptop (no, your processor is not running on straight 20V)

My PSU has been making a weird droning sound recently so I'm guessing something's stuck in there. Guess I should open it up and clean it out since I've never cleaned it before lol

Their non cheap PSUs are fine.
I've a tx850w that's been working for 11 years no problem.

Leave the computer unplugged for a few hours or one of the big filter caps might zap you good. Spamming the power button a few times after unplugging the computer should empty them.

Here, let me pass through for a sec.

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>Voiding your warranty out of paranoia of defective electronics parts

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If your power supply isn't mostly analog while still being efficient and low loads and doesn't have a power meter on the back, then you don't know SHIT about technology.

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I never spend more than $35 on a PSU. It's literally just a few simple components, there's no reason for it to cost more than a celeron CPU

PSUs are the most stressed component in a system. You are a mad man for not dumping some money into one.

user here, forgot to add tbqh to this post

The user is the most stressed component in a system.

hx520 here, running fine since 2008

I unironically use a sentey 575 watt PSU that has never ever failed me. I've had it for 5 years, next to my 290X and It really does not care.

Switch mode power supplies are art, actually.
You can make shitty one even without calculating a transformer, and have 70-ish% efficiency, while getting into 90% mark requires insane amount of engineering, calculation and shit.

My PSU was top of the line when I got it. First generation Corsair AX series, rebranded from the Seasonic X series, from when hitting 80 Plus Gold was a big deal. Efficiency and voltage regulation are still pretty okay by today's standards too. The warranty has to be pretty close to expiring though, so my next rebuild or upgrade is probably going to include a new one.

I unironically have a shit-tier corsair piece of trash which has been running pretty much ever day since 2013. It's an absolute chad and I will be using it until the day it burns my house down.

nigger psu fried my headphones twice
And if there is any problem, REPLACE IT *NOW*, you'll regret it if you do not.

The basic prpblem is that electros have such wide tolerances that an engineeer can take a punt on a lower spec part doing the job. In fact, he'd be expected to.
Add to that the rampant re-labeling, counterfeiting and substitution and it's a wonder anything works at all.

hardocp.com/article/2019/03/28/seasonic_x750_750w_psu_10_year_redux/
I am boss

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Do PSU manufacturers specify the topology they use for their power supplies in the datasheet? Or should I just assume they're all flyback?

I'd prefer to get one based on a resonant half bridge or full bridge converter. I'd also like information on the snubber network specified along with info output filtering and feedback loop design and controller.

Also the PSU needs to run in CCM. DCM is NOT acceptable.

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>You don't use a cheap power supply for your computer right?
Think I'll be fine

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This thing's been running 24/7/365 since 2012

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I have a rosewill 500W 80+ gold PSU, I should be fine right

I got a seasonic 750 watt gold
is that good enough?

garbage

Power supplies can't explode. You're delusional.

>warranty

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Is this PSU a meme? It does advertise 100% japanese caps

I don't know anyone who's ever bought one tho

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>RBG
>on a PSU

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I still have an s12-500 running in mine, 13 years and counting... might not be a bad idea to pop it open and have a look during the next rebuild.

>explode
I couldn't imagine buying a power supply so cheap the caps aren't weakened.

Got this in 2011 I think. Still no problems. I hope it stays that way.

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I saw burned mosfets on the ground.

>buy cheap power supply
>re-cap it with good caps
>save a shit ton of money

Why don't more people do this? You probably wanna replace the output diode and maybe the MOSFET that's switching the transformer if you know it's properties but that's only a couple of bucks between those and the caps.

I suppose you can't really fix shitty layout or circuit design or a bad transformer either (unless you're willing to wind a new one yourself) but everything else can be swapped for cheap. Bigger heatsinks might be good too.

>depending on an AC cap for reliable long term service
wew lad

Transistors and integrated circuits can get hot and melt. They don't detonate like a bomb. Ever. Capacitors with a liquid electrolyte can vent if they're incorrectly polarized or their voltage rating is exceeded. This is not an explosion. There's a vent tab on top to release this in a controlled manner.

Tantalum capacitors are probably the only electronic component that fail in a way that could be legitimately described as explosive.

>However, if the energy dissipated at the failure point is high enough, a new self-sustaining exothermic reaction may initiate, similar to the thermite reaction, with tantalum as fuel and manganese dioxide as oxidizer. This can destroy the capacitor, and occasionally produces smoke and possibly flame. To prevent catastrophic thermal runaway failure, auxiliary protective devices (e.g. thermal fuses, circuit breakers, or current limiters) may be used to limit fault currents.

seasonic platinum jap cap 600W went BANG on me like 3 months after warranty

gave me 7 years of solid service, but i have 15 year old 500W antecs with thrice the hours still tickin'

>There's a vent tab on top to release this in a controlled manner.
In theory they would always fail this way but in practice sometimes they cook off faster than they can vent and will in fact explode or do a convincing impression of a bottle rocket.

You do realize the capacitor in the LC tank is a low ESR NP0/C0G ceramic capacitor or polypropylene capacitor right?

Turns out electrolytic capacitors aren't appropriate for every occasion and you should use different capacitors for different applications. Who would have thought?

Well, they're not supposed to explode anyway. Funnily enough some older electrolytics don't have vent tabs on top at all and can actually explode if enough electrolyte vaporizes and the can reaches a high enough pressure.

And of course anything will explode if you push enough power through it. I saw 100A three busbar short circuit once. A good bit got vaporized and part of the busbar got welded to its neighbor.

>ceramic tank capacitor
Is your biggest load a raspi?