/mkg/ - Since no one can be arsed I guessed I'll make one myself Edition
>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com
>FAQs:
pastebin.com
>Group Buys
deskthority.net
drop.com
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org
oh
Can I have your attention please.
Ahem....
FUCK Cherry Corp
FUCK GMK
FUCK BSP
and FUCK Unicomp
What do you have against unicomp? And who cares about cherry their patents are expired, and all prebuilts are trash anyway
>all prebuilts are trash anyway
Opinions on the novatouch?
What is your favorite keycap profile and why
OEM, due to tons of available dirt cheap chinkshit keycaps
How does the availability of the profile make it the best profile
I've only tried OEM and cherry, but I prefer cherry, I got in on SA laser though so I'm really interested in seeing how that feels, will probably buy mt3 serika too
MT3. The thick PBT, high profile & deep dishing are great.
Over priced. But a good entry to topre.
Did you have any issues with the dye sub? I heard there were a lot of problems with it and I'm hesitant to buy
>best
>favorite
two different things
What's your favorite then
>go outside
>go rock climbing
>carpal tunnel
>oh
Nothing I've noticed to be honest. Maybe if I took a loupe to the caps I could find misalignments but if I have to look that close then it's really not a big deal.
i'm a different user, and my favourites are the AEK profile for typing and DSA with no angle for my gamepad
Do you use a standard AEK, or a custom? I have some loose skcm Orange alps laying around that I've been saving for a build, prolly gonna put DCS Yuri on then
standard, i use my numpad for inputting things like credit card numbers, bank details, etc way too often to give it up and there's no fullsize customs i've ever seen
a custom ASK exists IIRC, but i don't like that layout much due to the lack of a dedicated delete key and the arrow line
If/when I make it I'll just build it from scratch
KT profile
Where do u buy KT profile?
It's a copy of ye olde IBM model F and model M profile. You can't get them for cherry keycaps. SP used to sell them for IBM keyboards many years ago, but now they no longer do. Unicomp still sells keycaps in KT profile
what's a more tactile but not heavier alternative to mx blues?
Ah, yeah I really should try and get a unicomp, or a used model m
Box switches (prolly heavier) , or get in on the aristotle 2.0 GB,you'll have to do some switch assembly but cherrystotles/gatistotles/zeliostotles are great for what you're looking for
Box pale blues would be the closest. They both have a peak force of 65g, but with blues the peak force is just before the actuation and with pale blues the peak force is when you bottom out.
I just found a IBM F AT with french layout, dumped in a street with a bunch of other shit.
How much can I do by selling it ?
if you clean it up you can probably get like 250€
It's the only model F that can be used without the need for some special converter so they fetch a much higher price than the XT versions.
What are some things I need to check when buying a Model M?
Check the age since the older the better, you can easily tell just buy looking the the badge: square>grey>blue
Is it buckling springs or rubber domes
Are the rivets broken, if so you'll need a bolt or screw mod
Is it ISO, if so make sure it comes with a PBT spacebar since the ISO ones are cucked and came with ABS spacebars on the later models
Where can I hire somebody to build me a PCB?
and by build me a PCB I mean a custom one following this guide
just finished my layout, find a motherfucking flaw
keyboard-layout-editor.com
>nonsplit ortholinear
LOL
also good luck finding an enter key to fit there
There's that user on ebay, check the archive.
fuck your ortholinear bullshit I don't give a fuck I don't have butter hands.
kindly point me to it, pls
What happened to Cherry MX Black? There's only like 2 keyboards who use them today wtf
Cherry MX red are too light
sure friend
boards.4channel.org
>no swedish/nordic layout
>no ISO layout
nty
cause you're a brainlet
Thanks, I was completly clueless about the square, grey, blue thing.
been using my choc mini for a long while now. pretty satisfied with it. should i not feel this way? bear in mind i need validation from anonymous people.
Nothing wrong with that. Those came with POM caps right?
what's POM?
oh derp my bad, you mean pull off mechanical? yes i clean them often.
Polyoxymethylene, another type of plastic used for kecaps along with ABS, PBT and sometimes polycarbonate. More wear resistant than ABS and has a lower coefficient of friction; so it gets described as having a somewhat 'slippery' feeling as a result.
oh my bad. in that case yeah they're POM. laser engraved too. i've cleaned them a few times using alcohol and noticed they're fairly smooth to the touch on the top face, something like abrasive glass if that makes sense. you know how on a glass table there's a polish to the edge of the glass so its not overly smooth? that's the kind of texture.
what about now? your shitty repetitive layouts can't compete, this is basically flawless perfection-
this could easily be a superior layout for laptops
What do ya'll think of the Ducky One 2 KBs?
It's one of the few decent looking white keyboards I can find in my price range.
Fine, but certainly not worth the $200 price tag.
Leopold is better, just spend the extra 20 bucks for one. Unless you really need RGBT lighting then get a Ducky.
They're way less than $200 from what I've seen though.
The one I'm looking at is full length for usd$105
Only problem is none of the local brick and mortars around me sell Leopolds. But I'll look into them anyway.
just get them from mechanicalkeyboards.com
they're in tennessee and they even have a physical store if you're in the area. Otherwise try microcenter since they even carry the topre variants of leopolds like the 660c
R8 my planned colorscheme
Yellow on boards is underrated to be honest.
I'm wanting to give it a try because of the arrow cluster on vintage WYSE pce, of all things.
Something about it just works really well there for me for "less colorless than beige and gray, but not less professional"
>Popped into a couple of these threads for the first time in years
>Everyone is using weird ricer split keyboards that they apparently solder themselves, but they're still using QWERTY
What the fuck is this zoomer faggotry?
>t. still using my Ducky 1087 from over a decade ago
Wyse caps look great. Really wish there'd be some dyesubs that replicated the exact fonts used.
How often do you actually use CapsLock?. Just put it on the corner and out of the way. Put Ctrl or Esc there. Also, move Shift to a thumb key. You can then keep typing without bending your wrists like a retard.
Also, apparently / is the shifted key to \. Are you gonna press shift every time you need to enter a file path / url?.
The whole board is ahead of its time. It's damn thin compared to even most modern mech boards.
Maybe not so much the bottom row, though. We... don't talk about that spacebar.
Have any of you tried those new Model F keyboards at the meetups? How are they?
Why should I stop using qwerty?
This might be a silly question.
What size LEDs are best for keyboards? 5mm?
70€ for a blue label Model M?
Also is there any alternatives to eBay for buying them (or Unicomp's) from EU without paying 50-70 bucks for shipping?
>apparently / is the shifted key to \
No, the characters on top are the ones you need to just press te key. Caps lock is right the way it is.
>Also is there any alternatives to eBay for buying them (or Unicomp's) from EU without paying 50-70 bucks for shipping?
I got my Unicomp from the keyboard company in the UK. I'm in the UK, so it was free. You're looking between 20-30 quid for P&P inside Europe from the UK because it's an island and involves crossing water, be it by boat or by plane. Hopefully you're not in Switzerland or Norway, because they're not in the EU it'll be between 30-40 quid for P&P.
>so it was free.
so shipping was free*
Used M's aren't worth more than 50 IMO. Especially a blue label, which are extremely common and closer to a Unicomp in build quality.
The only benefit a used M has is that the springs are likely all loosened up and smoother. Both M and F keyboards actually feel better with age in my experience.
Fuck just checked and an Unicomp would cost me 150€ with shipping.
I'll pass and wait for a good deal on a model M. I missed one for 38 bucks last week.
I have a One2 Skyline and it's an amazingly sturdy keyboard. The only problem with it is that the firmware for rebinding keys through the board itself is garbage but you can just use registry edits to accomplish the same thing. One thing you should note before you buy though: the "dot" on the capslock key doesn't actually light up.
How do you make sure that the switches aren't wonky when soldering?
what about Box Pinks and Box Jades?
Box jades are heavier than mx blues, but I love to type on them, box pinks are lighter than jades (not sure by how much)
My keyboard has Cherry MX Blue switches. After not using it for a while (e.g. overnight), some of the keys stop working, even when bottoming out completely. After repeatedly mashing those keys a few times, they will work fine for the rest of the time I sit at the computer. What would cause this?
There is not much to say. They feel exactly like the originals.
What have I done wrong? The chassis won't flush unless I take the PCB out.
Other angle. I know i haven't installed all the switches yet.
You need to mount the switches through the top of the upper piece not from the bottom up like you have, enjoy your keyboard user.
I hope that keyboard is hotswap, or you didn't solder any of the switches.
Thanks, I had thought of this earlier but didn't apply enough pressure to actually fit them in.
I soldered them :-DDDD
>putting in work and building something with your hands is onions now
>being a consumer and buying off-the-shrl consumer products isn't
what a time to be alive
I'm on the fence about BOX Pink switches.
On one hand, they have great taktile feel and are exactly what I wanted (middle ground between Navi and Whites).
On the other hand, a surgeon point is significantly lower than the clicking point and I can't even understand, how one can fuck this up so badly.
I'm not a heavy typist and sometimes switches don't actuate before I stop pressing them.
On a side note, MT3 layout is a godsend and everyone should try using a split keyboard.
wtf you stupid idiot
actuation point*
Mt3 profile*
How does mt3 compare to SA?
I can't honestly tell.
I've tried SA during a Meetup and dint like it, but most likely that's due to the fact I was standing and not sitting with a proper hand placement.
Officially, they are shorter, deeper and designed to be used at an angle, but my keyboard is flat on the table and I love them.
user where are all the pixels?
Not him, but is this any better?
>t. pic related
I stole them all
Thanks
just spilled half of a water bottle on my keyboard and new phone haha
hehe
>brand new model f
How much?
It's a bit cheaper than what IBM was selling them in the 1980s. If you account for inflation then it's a lot cheaper
