Mkg

mkg
didn't see one

Attached: mkg.png (10000x10000, 388K)

Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.fr/NOUVEAU-G-Lab-KEYZ-CARBON-V2-FR-Mécanique/dp/B07CB97Z55/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_fr_FR
inet.se/produkt/6100419/ducky-one-2-tkl-skyline-mx-red-pbt-double-shot#specifikationer
inet.se/produkt/6100597/cooler-master-ck530-gateron-red
old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/amsq40/ctrl_shift_esc_not_working_ducky_one_2_mini/
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

mkg

that's a big image

...

Yes

what keyboard is this?

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Finally a high quality thread on this board

A shitty logitech G413

>ROMER-G Tactile
oh..
any recommendations for 100% keyboard with cherry blues that has its keys exposed in the same way?

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Has anyone considered taking out the weird stem stabilisers from choc switches? I'm having trouble noticing any difference in stability/wobble, and stock they seem to be solely responsible for the pretty loud rattle (at least in reds). I left them in because with some lube they are a lot quieter so I can't see a downside either, but I'm honestly confused why they're there in the first place.

Tab90m

the way the arrow keys and the numpad are so tightly jammed into the rest of the keys is beyond awful
im looking for a normal iso layout 100% keyboard with keys that exposed like

is the kbd fans pbt spacebar the same color as the realforce black keycaps?

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>cherry blues
Get a GMMK with Box whites instead

Then any of the chink shit keyboards on aliexpress will work

This is a pretty incredibly thread.

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Why is your buttplug missing the stem?

how different are those compared to cherry blue?
sound seems somewhat similar but whats the build quality like?

Can we get a better thread?

They're a bit lighter than blues and thanks to the box design they wobble less as well. It's just a plastic switch with metal contacts. There really isn't much to say.

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The tactility is going to be sharper on the box clickbar switches, that and the lessened wobble like the other user said.

It's not meant to come out.

Hey so I'm retarded, choc keycaps have an up and a down and I completely forgot how they used to be on my georgi. The photos on the website aren't clear either. Can anyone with a georgi handy post a pic please

Burt?

>Get a GMMK with Box whites instead
Shit, if you're going to get Box Whites, just come ALL the way out the closet and go with Box Pinks.

Anyone here actually try out the noble yellows? Are they closer than pinks to being that medium click switch between box whites & navies?

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Flat side towards home row. So the tapered side will face down and upwards. That's how the steno guys like Em.

Re: Stab bars, I take them out on my chocs. Easy enough to do and they're plenty stable without them

Sure feels that way to me, at least from testing single switches side-by-side. Definitely like them more than stock pinks.

How much for an SSK again?

Didnt mean to quote

You mean the IBM one? The Apple one? The HP one? Or the SUN one?

How do you feel about the revamped Razer Green switches?

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he's just getting ready to go to walmart to buy some bud lite and malboros, because he sucks cock like a good wannabe cowboy

is this just a more stabilised cherry blue?

im working on a better tactical carrot.

a gaming keyboard

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No because they still have click jackets.

I'm talking about that additional plastic on the sides of the +

In theory it should help, but the click jacket is loose inside the switches and likes to wobble.

GERGOMAN! I noticed you added bootmagic lite to the gergo default keymap, but the row and column are defined as 13 and 2 respectively. What key is that?

Also, is there any reason not to use eager_pk denounce rather than eager_pr? Or did you just never try it?

My 16 year old keyboard broke, morespecifically its PS/2 stopped connecting. Im not sure if its the PC or the keyboard so what would be the best way to fix this? I have grown quite fond of typing on it and I would rather not buy a new one.

Well, I could try mechanical but my budget is 50 eur max and I doubt I find anything I enjoy for that amount of money.

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Well, maybe not 50 eur but under a hundred still. I do type a lot

Looks like a straight Outemu rebrand this time, the GReetech-made ones were at least kinda interesting because of their stiffer-than-normal contact leaf.

Also I just tried flashing my georgi and it seems the reset button doesn't manage to put it into bootloader mode. It just resets back into steno mode (I'm assuming, I don't have plover installed yet) and I can't press STEN and then type qwerty again, and at no point does the flasher (dfu) recognise it (I definitely am flashing with sudo, so it should work).

Try using an active PS/2 to USB adapter, if that doesn't work then the keyboard is fucked.
Try using another PS/2 keyboard, if that doesn't work then the PS/2 port is fucked.
If you want a mech keyboard then get a cheap ISO one from amazon. I don't know where you live, but something like
amazon.fr/NOUVEAU-G-Lab-KEYZ-CARBON-V2-FR-Mécanique/dp/B07CB97Z55/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_fr_FR will work

you can get some really nice mechs for under 100$

Thanks, I guess I can try that after I try hooking it up to my older PC to see if the problem is with the PC/2 bus or the laptop
Do you have any recommendations? I fear it might be a crapshoot like with mice.

tada68

More seriously though apparently OP didn't include the rec guide but at least say how many keys you want. Do you use the numpad? Do you care about having gaps between e.g. the main cluster and the arrow keys, or is something like tada68 fine? Do you need F-keys?
And then think a bit about switches. Do you care about noise? Do you know whether you want tactility or completely linear switches? (If you don't know that last one, that's fine, but consider going to some physical shop and trying out some linears vs. tactile or clicky. Or get a switch tester.)

you can usually get a ducky for under 100$, which is quite nice and you can get similar quality chinkboards on aliexpress for a bit less
leopold is usually considered the best prebuilt brand for mx switches, and it's only like 120$
keyboards really aren't that expensive unless you're into more rare switches or customization autism

I dont really use a numbad so its optional though always a plus but not that important. There is also a slight problem of me required letters like ÄÖÅ so it should have a more nordic layout. I really dont care about noise as I filter it out anyways but the more quiet the better. The tactility is something I cant really answer out of experience but googling tells me that linear would be the better bet as I cant be bothered to push down hard.

I dont mind the lack of gap but how do you alt-F4 on a keyboard without F-keys?

Could get a Ducky TKL, pretty sure they make Nordic layout variants.

>tactility is something I cant really answer out of experience but googling tells me that linear would be the better bet as I cant be bothered to push down hard.
Stuff like MX Brown and their clones are still pretty light switches. It's more about spring weight than anything, linear blacks are stiffer than tactile browns. The reason why linear is recommended in that regard is because MX Red specifically is the lightest in Cherry's switch lineup.

>I dont mind the lack of gap but how do you alt-F4 on a keyboard without F-keys?
Usually Alt-Fn-4, as the function row is typically folded into the number row via the Function layer.

>how do you alt-F4 on a keyboard without F-keys?
function layer mapping
Anyways if you want something nice get a Ducky.
inet.se/produkt/6100419/ducky-one-2-tkl-skyline-mx-red-pbt-double-shot#specifikationer
They're on the higher end of the spectrum, but if you want something towards the budget side check out
inet.se/produkt/6100597/cooler-master-ck530-gateron-red
Also ignore the stock photos the layout is ISO-Nordic

>There is also a slight problem of me required letters like ÄÖÅ so it should have a more nordic layout
That's entirely on the OS level and doesn't depend on the keyboard. Unless you really want to show off pictures, or somehow don't remember how to type on your native layout, and thus need them to be explicitly labelled on the keycaps.
>The tactility is something I cant really answer out of experience but googling tells me that linear would be the better bet as I cant be bothered to push down hard.
The actual force needed to press doesn't have to be very high, and in particular older rubber domes tend to get pretty stiff so most likely any average switch will be fine.
If you have any chance at all, I would seriously recommend trying out the following three switches:
>kailh box white
>gateron red or yellow, either or
>gateron clear
What I do in these cases is buy a sample of like 10 from chinks, which is usually something around $2-3 per 10 switches, but that takes a few weeks to ship and if your budget is $50-100 you may not want to spend an extra $10 just to try out switches. So another option, if you've got good amazon service in your country, is to order a switch tester from there (or a couple, if you can't find one with all three), give them a try, and then just return them.

Thanks! I will look into Ducky then. Im guessing Panda is better than Skyline? At least theyre priced locally much higher but online I could get pink one cheap

I think one just has a backlight and the other one doesn't

Though if Im going to sacrifice layout for the US one like suggested then would tada68 be the better bet? I mean they have the same price and I can always bind Ä and Ö into something else.

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They're just color variations.

>I can always bind Ä and Ö into something else.
Plenty of people confuse this, and you sound like you do, so if you know all this and just phrased that poorly bear with me and just ignore this. However, I'm right and your understanding is incomplete, let me explain.
There are three things to differentiate here:
1. What's written on the keycap. It doesn't need to have anything to do with what's actually typed.
2. The keycode that's sent to the computer. If we use standard qwerty as reference, we could for instance call the top right letter's keycode "KC_Q" (short for "keycode Q"), just for the sake of this example (I don't know the actual low-level standard).
3. The letter that your computer makes appear on-screen. For instance, if you go to your OS settings and change the layout to azerty, when the computer receives KC_Q, it will act as if you typed "A".

Layouts such as nordic are implemented fully in the third layer. That means literally any normal-ish keyboard that can type qwerty will be able to type nordic (and azerty, and cyrillic, and dvorak, etc. etc.) if your OS is set up for it, exactly as well as any other keyboard. So if you don't buy a dedicated "nordic keyboard", all you lose are the keycap labels, and you don't even need to rebind anything.

Now, to answer your actual question -
>would tada68 be the better bet?
I think the tada is cheaper, isn't it? I haven't looked at ducky for a while but I thought they were definitely above $100. tada doesn't have RGB but rather plain white backlight. They both have great keycaps, a wide choice of switches and are generally very adequately built. Probably the biggest difference is gonna be the layout - is a smaller keyboard a bonus for you, or a drawback, or do you not care? (Keep in mind smaller keyboards also allow more comfortable mouse positioning.) Are you fine with pressing Fn to access F-keys and a bit of stuff like Home/End (or alternatively PgUp/PgDn), or is that a dealbreaker?

Has anyone done a custom layout like this through WASD keyboards?
I was thinking it would be cool to do this with something from the Ghost in the Shell manga

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Will be cool for a couple months before it's wrecked to all hell.

I'm a keyboard noob, how will it be wrecked?
Just the act of typing and fingers pressing against the keys will wear out the graphic?
Will the same thing happen to keycaps in more vibrant colors?

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What switch would you guys personally recommend between reds, whites, browns, and blacks? I can feel subtle differences on the tester I bought, but I'm afraid that it won't completely accentuate what they're like on a full keyboard.

I type and game a lot.

Gateron yellows are my current favorite. It seems I got lucky with my batch though, they're nice and smooth and have very little wobble.

>Just the act of typing and fingers pressing against the keys will wear out the graphic?
Yes. From everything I've heard the coating is shit, and WASD keycaps are shit.
>Will the same thing happen to keycaps in more vibrant colors?
It's not a matter of colour. If you get normal dyed keycaps, it'll be fine. If you get shitty custom printing (which is what WASD does), it'll die.
To probably answer your next question, making a detailed picture like that through dying is theoretically possible, yes, but an expensive enough process that I'm not aware of anyone offering custom services. There are a couple of sets that have a detailed design, but they're all preset and can't be customized (I think varmillo has that cherry blossom set?).

Ducky One 2 Mini user here. I asked in a previous /mkg/ why the CTRL+SHIFT+ESCAPE command didn't launch Task Manager in Windows 10. Well, I searched for it online and the keyboard is the issue. Pressing CTRL+SHIFT+ESCAPE should register those keys, but Ducky One 2 Mini registers it as CTRL+SHIFT+§ (ESC and § are on the same key, and you normally press FN+ESCAPE to get "§") . I tried contacting Ducky but their dinosaur website is fucked to hell, wanting me to select chinese subject line when I am clearly on the english version of their website.

This isn't a huge issue though, I love my keyboard (silent red switches) and it's perfect in every way, except this little thing. Surely this must be fixable with a firmware update?

old.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/amsq40/ctrl_shift_esc_not_working_ducky_one_2_mini/

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People offer it. You just have to pay for the entire MOQ of a few hundred sets. So if you can drop ~50 grand to have it, you'll be able to just fine.

It's the Right Shift key (leftmost lower). There's been some issues with resets sitting so it's a way to get into fall back. Plug it in while holding that key and she should work.

As far as the bounce, drashna yeeted that in there.

That is weird. Try pushing down on the reset and MCU while plugging it in. That sometimes does it.

clicky or bust

Buckling Springs

>It's the Right Shift key (leftmost lower).
Cool! That'll come in handy, since my reset button is fucked and I've been using a piece of solder wire to manually short it when reflashing.

>That is weird. Try pushing down on the reset and MCU while plugging it in. That sometimes does it.
What's the MCU? I tried holding down reset and it didn't help.
Also I meant that I CAN press STEN and start typing qwerty after pressing the reset button. So it does something, but it's as if it rebooted the keyboard rather than putting it into bootloader mode.

Do you know what I could do to try to debug or figure out what's happening?

Box navy

Hm. Copy the bootmagic lite stuff out of the Gergo repo. Use hid_listen to the col/row you need to set for bootmagic and then just bootmagic it from there. I only thought the issue applied to Gergo, you're is the first Georgi I've heard of doing it ;(

For the bootmagic key you'll want it on the same sideas the USB

>I think the tada is cheaper, isn't it?
Well theyre both 100 eur with US pricing, though I guess Il go with Sakura as its quieter. Funny thing, taxation and imports.

Thanks user.

It's only quieter if you get silenced switches, but then the Tada also comes with those. It's a matter of preference really. The one huge advantage the Tada has is QMK support which I honestly cannot live without.

Hello /mkg/!

I currently own an mx brown KUL ES-87 that I bought from elitekeyboards. I also own a HHKB that I bought from the same place. I haven't purchased anything new in at least 6 years however, and after visiting elitekeyboards today it seems they might be out of business.

I like the ES-87 because it's simple, reliable, and has a dip switch to swap caps lock and control in hardware (so I don't need to keep remapping in software on any machine I move it to.

Since keyed-up-labs has no other North American distributor, short of going on ebay, where can I get something like this? I looked into the Pok3r for firmware remapping, but I sort of want to retain easy access to f-keys, so maybe I don't want another small board like the HHKB.

Also, should I get clears instead of brows this time? Advantages/disadvantages for someone with a light touch?

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Get a Leopold from mechanicalkeyboards.com
Personally I'm a fan of the 980c, but if you don't like topres or the 1800 layout you can get a 900r or 750r instead

Newer Leopolds have DIP switches on the bottom, one of which switches left ctrl and caps lock.

I like my HHKB a lot, but I don't know if I want another Topre switch keyboard. I think my browns are nicer to type a lot with if I'm honest.

Thank you. Leopold seemed to be sort of a rare brand, should I be worried about availability?

And what about zealio or clear switches?

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Mechanicalkeyboards carries Leopolds, if you're in the US. And mykeyboard.eu or Candykeys may have some in stock if you're in Europe.

Leopold is semi rare. places like microcenter carry their keyboards, but more mainstream brands like Ducky can be found in places like best buy and walmart.
Zealios are really nice switches, but finding them in prebuilts is rare. Personally I rank BKE swapped topres>Zealios>Clears>Browns

Alright, will try it and report tomorrow as I gotta crash. At least if it's a known issue (assuming it's the same thing as what's happening in the gergos) and I can just bootmagic lite my way past that'd be great

Desolder Leopold's for sub $200 end game/objectively best possible chassis/keyfeel/keycaps

cooler master iight too

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I've never used a mechanical keyboard before. I think I would like blue switches. What keyboard would you recommend?

go to walmart and tryout some basic bitch keyboards first, then get a switch tester with your preferred switch types

Luckily I have a microcenter near me, I didn't know they had leopolds, that is nice.

I am in the US, thanks.

Maybe I'll try zealio- are they too loud for the office though?

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There's a silenced version of Zealios called Zilents. I got some in a switch tester and they're the best quiet tactile switch I've tried, however they cost almost a dollar a switch which means I do debate on whether I should splurge on a keyboard with them. Do to the high cost I'd probably get a 75% They're just as quiet as a rubber dome, but way more tactile.

>light touch?
Get a topre keyboard and swap some BKE Extremes in there. That way you can build some finger strength

What's so bad about browns?

go to Jow Forums and find out

I have a topre (HHKB) and I don't like it as much as cherry for long sessions.

Nothing if you like them user.

I'll look into it.

What is the consensus on a GMMK base + zealio (or zilent) switches? I don't want to go full autism and solder/lube/shield my cables/etc, but this seems like a middle ground option?

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that's why you get BKE domes for your topres you crybaby

The only downside to hotswap is that it's more expensive, but prices keep going down. GMMK is a good choice, tho it won't be built as nice as a Leopold or Ducky.

I'll look into it, thank you.

Thanks. What about assembled kits from KBDfan?

For you

KBDfans is a good choice, they even have a couple hotswap options. If you can afford them with Zealios go for it

is there any difference in leopold keyboards

I noticed that massdrop also has a 67 key "swappable" option that is pricey as you mentioned, but looks compelling aside from that.

yes some of them at TKLs while others are full size