/mkg/

I'm planning my dactyl manuform right now. did you write up any notes for your build? or upload your config anywhere>

Is there anyone out there building dactyls with LED shine through?

Also how does one configure a dactyl?

Are Matias keyboards good?

github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard
github.com/adereth/dactyl-keyboard

clone one of these repos (depending on whether or not you want the manuform variant). then follow the instruction to install clojure, leingine, and openscad. configuring is just changing values in a text file. sure, it's sort of technically programming, but it's really not bad.

Well the keymap I use is here, save for a few little things like an em dash macro & a workman layer.
github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/handwired/dactyl_manuform/5x7/keymaps/default/keymap.c
Past that I've also changed the clojure a bit so one of the 1.5u plates doesn't interfere with the 1u key below it. It's a simple enough change to do yourself but if you want I can point out the relevant lines in the code. If you mean for the physical build itself then I don't really have any notes. I just plan out the lengths of wire needed for the amoebas, and solder all the wires first before soldering them to the switches.

Attached: modified thumb.png (992x719, 38K)

yeah, I noticed that weird little bump. it would help if you pointed me to the offending line. thanks user

Likely not the most elegant way to do it, but whatever it works. Where you see 'larger-plate' defined near the top of the code, just copypaste it to make a new definition only change mirror [0 1 0] to mirror [0 0 0]. Then where you see thumb defined change it to (def thumb
(union
(thumb-1x-layout (rotate (/ π 2) [0 0 1] single-plate))
(thumb-tr-place single-plate)
(thumb-tr-place larger-plate)
(thumb-tl-place single-plate)
(thumb-tl-place larger-plate-half)
))
I think that's all that needs to be done, been a while since I made the change.

Oh yea pretty sure you'll need to fuck with the connectors so you don't have a gap where that bit of 1.5u plate used to be.

that's plenty for me to figure it out. thanks again user!

You pretty much need to get your prints done in a cheaper country for that. Look for printing services in China or India.

not looking for mechanical, but am looking for a niche keyboard product

does anyone have experience with keyboards less than 7 inches in width?
something more tactile than a phone is what i'm looking for

i've seen a dozen or so $20-30 mini keyboards that are the size of a tv remote on amazon, and know of like xbox 360 controllers that have keyboard between the handles
anyone found that kind of stuff at least more useful than a phone for when you need to type something but don't have a desk space available?

I'm looking for a certain type of keycap set, or sets. I'm looking for black, backlit keycap sets that appear to be blank or close to it, when a keyboard's backlight is off.

Any suggestions?

>Budget
50-60$
>Location (continent at least)
Asia. So looking for something that can be found on Aliexpress/Gearbest
>Preferred switch type
Kailh browns? I've done a bit of research and I've read they are pretty good. Will be using it to write code and schoolwork
>Layout
Whatever is standard English
>Form factor
Been using full sized keyboards my whole life. Wouldn't mind a 10keyless but preferably nothing smaller than that.
>Backlight
No need for rgb. A simple backlight would be good for working at night but not necessary at all.
>Previous/current keyboards
Have only used shitty rubber dome logitech keyboards

split keyboards are a terrible meme
cherry mx blues are a terrible meme
split keyboard with cherry mx blues is an abomination

First time buyer, opinions on kailh box jades?
I got a cherry mx switch tester, and was pretty disappointed with the lack of tactility of them.

Probably the best clicky switch imo, FAR FAR more tactile than the MX Blues or any other jacket clicky, on top of having two clicks per press vs only one with the jackets.

Hard not to bottom out with them due to the light spring, so if you don't mind heavy switches I'd suggest navies instead.

>Split Keyboard
>All this effort
and it's still typing in QWERTY. This is why nobody takes MKG seriously.

>has such a weak personality he needs to be taken seriously at every turn
iToddler spotted

Pls respond bro

Attached: 5630C6B854734B3F8EB8D767F4AC05CF.png (400x400, 29K)

I have a gergo. not as sexy as that tho

>Budget
100$CAD

>Location
Canada

>Preferred switch type
No preference

>Layout
No preference

>Form factor
TKL or less if you think I'll still be able to play games and write without too much of a struggle

>Backlight
No preference

Attached: 3DD0176584294C86A2A88E27D517372C.png (467x348, 205K)

That's a wide area of selection there, you need to tell me a bit more about yourself.
Win vs Mac vs Linux?
Aesthetics or Functionality?
Are traps gay or not?
What sort of games?
I'm tempted to recommend a 65% though, help me narrow it down.

Windows
Mount and blade, space engineer...

In term of aesthetics/functionality I'm pretty torn in between the two. A mix of both I guess. I don't want those awful gamerz keyboard that's for sure.

If you up your price you can get something like this:
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2422
or the white version for 85:
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3736
If you don't want to go above, I'll have a look for chinkboards on aliexpress.

Nice suggestion. I've read somewhere that cherry switch are getting obsolete and gateron and other are cheaper and better. Is that right?

I'd appreciate to see some chink one at a lower price to compare.

The more cheaper boards tend to have the stupid gamer aesthetic that do use cheaper switches. You're not wrong, gateron are essentially perfect cherry clones for much cheaper.
Besides this:
newegg.com/p/32N-003D-00065?Description=ganss gs87c&cm_re=ganss_gs87c-_-9SIA4RE9EZ7494-_-Product
Nothing has really jumped out at me, and that has cherry switches.

I want a split orthonormal kb but it woud be my first mechanical ever.
Have been looking nyquist and let's split, both are appealing to me, with let's split being a bit more appealing to me (would have to buy a numpad, but I like the idea anyhow), although nyquist looks more complete.
I don't know how to solder but I know a community of electronics/3d printing in my city and I know some of them, so I guess they could help me with all the stuff... Still, I am not sure, it seems like a lot of things could fail. OTOH I feel like in the long run it would be better to just get involved with the building process and also since these guys have 3d printers I could easily make case variations and end up with the perfect kb. But I also fear to become obsessed with such a chimera.

Is there anywhere I can buy a prebuilt version of any of those?
Also, which one do you recomend, if any? I am a C++/Python programmer, and use mostly Emacs with Evil layer if that helps.

Dactyl manuform, in the middle of building one myself and getting the parts for it. Getting anything built for you besides a 20% board or something will cost stupid amounts usually, and at that point just think about shelling out for an ergodox.

does anyone even make custom pbt keycaps?

yes, thats a problem. As price goes up the idea of just dumping 300$ into an ergodox becomes tempting.

Honestly though if you build it yourself even if you have a few failures along the wya you're learning, and being able to tell people you built your kb is worth something too. It's not expensive to build one either if you have access to a 3D printer, with switches, diodes, microcontrollers, and whatever connectors to connect them being probably under 50USD.

>put keyboard together
>some of the keys don't work
uhhh, is this a soldering issue or the switches dead?
First time building a board so not really sure what I'm doing.

Always test the PCB first before soldering.
You could try shorting the pins on each switch, one by one, from the bottom of the PCB. If they give an output that way but not if the switch is pressed, the problem is the switch, if not then the problem is with your soldering or the PCB.

Yes, there's a guy on Etsy that does them, tho a full set is like $250+
If you have a smaller set like this HHKB it's closer to 100

Attached: 1542420035601.jpg (3264x2448, 945K)

>shorting the pins on each switch
How do I do this?

>one by one
Is that really necessary when I know which key's aren't working?

How are Outemu Browns compared to Cherry MX Browns? Want to try an inexpensive keyboard between 60% and TKL.

Take something metal (like a pair of tweezers) and touch both contact points at once. And yeah, I guess you could just test the ones that aren't working this way since the others are confirmed to be fine.

Thank you, I'll give this a go.

for 50 bucks? pretty good

If I have now found that a few of the keys are still unresponsive. What are my options?
Will I need to buy a new pcb and re-solder everything?
That seems a bit excessive for considering it is only three keys
The backslash thinks it's a shift, although that might be an issue with the pc not recognising what the key should be.
And other than that it's just the scroll lock and menu buttons.

>still haven't gotten around to reprogramming and using my georgi
I wish I wasn't this lazy

they fucked up qmk now it won't build

I can help you get it set up with DennyTom's firmware that behaves more like a real keyboard instead of the weird default "send on release" behavior

Check all your solder connections, I guess. Make sure there are no bridges anywhere and everything's making proper contact.

Here's the connections for the problems. You'll probably tell me that I killed scroll lock

Attached: keyboard.jpg (3734x2157, 938K)

The shift/backslash solder joints look worse than the scroll lock, honestly. Although scroll lock's diode does appear to be missing, which would explain why that isn't registering.
As for the others, they all seem to be making contact so there's probably something wrong with the PCB.

That sounds interesting; does chording still work properly? I'm not sure how to imagine that

Anyone got a Akko 3068SP?
Is it any good?

An ergodox isn't as comfy to type on as a dactyl-manuform to be honest. I say this after using the former for years beforehand.

Attached: IMG_20180322_150600.jpg (2934x1566, 836K)

You will need switches and keycaps, a mini? usb and a 3.5 to 3.5 cable

yeah there are some pretty cheap print services on aliexpress that do SLA/SLS
I haven't used any personally but the people in the 3d threads on diy post their stuff that they got printed from ali services occasionally and it always looks great

Yup! Chording works as well as default, actually better in some ways because "press x and y together" and "press x then y" can be different things instead of the same. With more options for chording and MUCH easier setup of chords too. I even have a steno layer on mine that works flawlessly in Plover.

Message me on Discord at CwD#7492 if you want to talk about it. If you aint got one I can try to explain what I can here, but it's gonna be a fairly long back and forth irrelevant to everyone but us

It's insane, man. I've seen people get shit that would easily run several hundred in the states for under $50.

>"press x and y together" and "press x then y" can be different things instead of the same
I'm assuming this is timing based? If I'm understanding this correctly - does this mean that for example, you could hold Shift, and then type chorded (either steno or the normal chorded qwerty mode), and each chord would come out immediately after you press it, in caps, all without releasing Shift? If so, that's fucking great, hook me the fuck up please
>If you aint got one I can try to explain what I can here, but it's gonna be a fairly long back and forth irrelevant to everyone but us
It's mechanical keyboard talk, about Jow Forumseorgi no less - honestly a much better discussion than much of the usual "rate/recommend a 60% board" or "recommend me gay keycaps" or "buyer's template: $150, US, fullsize".
If it's really so long that you can't be bothered to type it out in 2000 character chunks, and/or want a more durable contact method than anonymous thread posting, then you can reach me at [email protected].

It also sounds like it would make the butterstick actually pleasant to type on, which would be ebin

Your assumption is correct for normal mode. There's no such thing as shift in steno, though.

DennyTom's firmware was originally made for Butterstick and I ported it to Georgi, so it works on both.

His Butterstick firmware: github.com/DennyTom/qmk_firmware/tree/feature/butterstick_tomas_keymap/keyboards/butterstick/keymaps/tomas

His chording engine: github.com/DennyTom/qmk_firmware/tree/feature/butterstick_tomas_keymap/users/dennytom/chording_engine

My Georgi adaptation: github.com/CommunistWitchDoctor/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/georgi/keymaps/buttery

Oh this looks awesome. Now I have to get off my butt and add it to my board

>As price goes up the idea of just dumping 300$ into an ergodox becomes tempting.

How about a complete Ergodox kit with blank PBT keycaps and hot-swapable keys for

files.catbox.moe/n85sjo.ogg

Post your keeb noises

>Looking to get a *relatively* cheap split.

See

Where the fuck do I put this gigantic coiled PS2 cable
There's nowhere to put it across my desk without it looking ugly as fuck.

It's really nothing particularly special, just a Ducky Shine 3 with Gat browns, lubed stabs to reduce their rattle, and some cheap chink PBT/POM doubleshot caps.

files.catbox.moe/y0umx0.ogg

Pretty pleasant and bassy, if nothing else. Sounds a bit less rattly than my Gat browns.

If you're the same guy that posted the recording, your stabs may benefit from some lube too. I know mine got a lot more pleasant afterwards.
Not a lot you can do about the actual pitch of the clacking without switching out the chassis or putting on some thick SA profile keycaps though.

I suggest you to record on your bed to make the sound of keyboard more clear without any table vibrations.

I know, this was just real quick and dirty. It's just a short clip that gets the point across fine, and as I said, it's not like the keyboard is super special.

do a proper recording or no recording at all, what's the point

That's easily in my top 10 faggiest keyboards I've ever seen.

Attached: 400.jpg (585x300, 109K)

Anyone?

Attached: 1450200916713.jpg (648x648, 29K)

How difficult is it to make a hand wired kb? I want a 65% ortholinear but no one makes pcbs for those.

how much do you want for that case?

whats that code? looks like lisp

I've gone through 3 keyboards and 5 years so I think it's time to build a mechanical one myself so it's easier to repair/replace parts.

I don't really have a problem with membrane, nor do I bottom out keys, so I'm thinking cherry reds or kailh speed silvers are best for me? I don't have any issue with accidentally grazing keys or accuracy so I want keys I can just slightly and quickly tap.

My favorite keyboard was the Kinesis Freestyle 2, so I was looking for something similar.
needs:
split
minimum 65 keys, but 75-85 might be better as I need page up/down, home/end, delete. I do use numpad, but I'll use a mod key for numpad and arrow keys too I guess.
for programming, writing, gaming
don't need right side ctrl, alt, shift, etc.
*low profile*

I don't necessarily have a budget, but I'd like to keep it under $250 and preferably under $150.
The low profile requirement is where I'm really struggling... I want something under like 15mm tall all together, if I were to guess.
From my research so far, I'm a fan of the two piece plates with risers as that means that with low profile switches I can just get lower profile risers from home depot or amazon to shorten the base.
Just not sure I'm crazy about the layouts...
Quefrency is my favorite, except I'd prefer having 35 keys on the left side. It only has 30. No plates in stock...
Viterbi is 35+35 split but I'm not sure about the orthonormal layout...
diverge 4 is something really different that I MIGHT like but can't tell. I'm also not sure if it can fit a 2 wide space bar with how the thumb keys are staggered. But even without switches it's $270! wtf?
Redox and ErgoDox both seem nice with PCBs at around $25. I can't really tell the dif between these. It seems the redox has the Teensy behind two keys, while the Ergodox has it up top, so the Redox can't be quite as low profile?...

Anything I'm missing looking at?

Attached: kinesis freestyle 2.jpg (3418x2562, 631K)

There's the more annoying part which is the low profile keys and switches...
kaihl low profile choc speed silver look nice, except they use a different mounting for keycaps... and the only keycaps I can find for them look extremely low quality.
>aliexpress.com/item/32915900901.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.76eb17458cTaqF
So I guess I'd have to buy something with low profile cherry mx reds? And all those keysboard with 100+ keys (to have enough 2u keys) are $100+...
I think i'd prefer the shorter actuation point on the kaihl's but the mx cherrys have vastly better choice of keycaps.
>amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Sk-650-Gklr1-US-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B07N4DFPNM?th=1
>mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4552
I did find these to salvage from but, again, expensive.
I believe there is a Sharkoon mechanical keyboard with low profile switches and keycaps, but I can't figure out which it is.
>amazon.com/Redragon-K589-Mechanical-Extra-Thin-Anti-ghosting/dp/B07RHRDS2K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=low profile mechanical keyboard&qid=1567986622&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Another one with proprietary switches... Only 3mm shorter instead of 6.5 like cherry low profiles.
>amazon.com/Tesoro-Mechanical-Individual-Illuminated-TS-G11SFL/dp/B01EISADWE/ref=sr_1_39?keywords=low+profile+mechanical+keyboard&qid=1567986864&s=gateway&sr=8-39&th=1
Similar to the above, or the same?
>amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-Mechanical-Technology/dp/B07M5JY142/ref=sr_1_35?keywords=low profile mechanical keyboard&qid=1567986864&s=gateway&sr=8-35
looks like kaihl chocs, but no logo on them. Doesn't have 2u keys from numpad to harvest for the space bar, anyway, though...

Are there any other options for low profile switches and keys? But not scissor switches.
I really want the low profile MX Cherry for the more straight forward keycap options, but they seem to only be available in some expensive keyboards.

It's clojure.

files.catbox.moe/nfwcmv.ogg
Jades with a terrible potato mic

Well I'm selling the whole board (sans keycaps) for $275 with box navies (with box royal springs in them). I'm up for whatever offers though m8.

The same jades with the same terrible mic but with my keyboard on a towel to dampen the desk thudding, as suggested by the other user above: files.catbox.moe/q31mg3.ogg

I don't have one, but Ducky is the OEM and Ducky makes solid keyboards.

depends on how much autism you have. All what you really need is a plate. You can create a layout here
keyboard-layout-editor.com/
then click the raw data tab at the bottom and copy paste it here
builder.swillkb.com/
it will generate a plate where you can then have your favorite metal shop machine it for you.

Cherry mx red or brown?

Can't fucking decide. Only thing I don't want is an overly loud keyboard.

If you want quiet get black switches and o rings

I currently have a Sidewinder x4 and I'm fine with the noise.

Just don't want much more that's all.

um no just get silent switches
what's a 65% ortholinear?
aliexpress.com/item/32821198488.html
does this not have enough columns?
if it has too many you can cut some off like I did
if it doesn't have enough, ur fuked
also you might try acrylic (if metal isn't available)

Attached: jajajaj.jpg (1000x750, 177K)

There's Cherry Silent Reds and Cherry Silent Blacks.
novelkeys.xyz/products/cherry-switches

I haven't heard the Cherry silent switches, but the Gateron silent switches are significantly quieter than regular switches with o-rings.
And Gateron has a whole line of Silent keyswitches.
novelkeys.xyz/products/gateron-silent-switches

Sorry, the line above "And Gateron..." should be below it.

Attached: 1518222643936.jpg (4928x3264, 3.78M)

Well, while I was initially annoyed by my sealed SSK coming with broken rivets (and, as I eventually learned, a partial crack in the middle of the barrel plate), I'm kind of glad how it turned out because bolt modding was actually rather easy, if a bit tedious. And, hell, now it feels better and sounds much better now too. Definitely worth it.

Attached: IMG_20190908_134015.jpg (1261x578, 597K)

Why isn't the bottom row bolted up there?

The front row is always under tension anyway, and thus bolting would make no major difference in key feel, in fact I've seen some people say it actually made it too tight on the front row for them, not to mention it made it harder to fit in the assembly.

By the way I certainly recommend getting some flush cutters to snug up the broken rivets on the barrel plate. A lot of people suggest filing it down, but that shit takes forever and I found that a good job with flush cutters usually does about as well in a 1/10th of the time. Just be careful not to hurt the spacers.

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lol i saw your thread on deskthority