/ktg/ Knife Thread General /ktg/

is there a gif animation of proper syone sharpening examples or gudes? raw wire frammed geometry is om too.

Yeah, if you have a sharpening system at home and you know how to use it.

Mora's will get dull pretty quickly so they need constant maintenance if you use them a lot and like a sharp knife.

It won't really matter unless you're planning on getting it really wet or really cold.

Just rub a little beeswax or linseed oil into it. Protection + grip. That said, I've kept the stock finish on my mora 612. The shape helps grip a lot.

Any Leatherman Charge owners here? How do you feel it stacks up to the Surge? Being able to take jigsaw blades and having a sturdy set of scissors is a huge draw to the Surge for me.

Just picked up pic related. Working at a place that sells them, I just managed to get one before we pulled them and a bunch of other now-illegal knives off the shelf.

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I like that I can go into almost any hardware store in the world and see a clear plastic bin of those at the register.

Isn't that the 1$ knife that is utter shit?
Or 1£ in this case...

>we pulled them and a bunch of other now-illegal knives off the shelf.
What? Britbongistan?

>Jesus Christ how Horrifying

civilian or matriarch?

what would be the best way of fixing this locking clip against the frame?
for a shitty cheap knife I'd rather it lock loosely on the stud inside

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>2018
>Somehow unfamiliar with the concept of glue

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what knife should buy? I have 100 dollars to spend. it should be unflashy and easy to carry. help me out

reckon it'll hold?
it needs quite a lot of pressure to keep against the frame but i can prop it with a few coins

You could also probably file it off, you only need it not to reach the knifes hilt, right?

It should, blue Loctite is the go-to for this kind of stuff. Red is supposedly tougher but harder to undo, I've never used it.

Spyderco Native5

You posted your budget and that's a good start but we need your state and your intended purpose and whether you'd prefer a folder or fixed blade.

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>civilian or matriarch?
civilian looks like at least an ich of the bladde will snap off as soon as you drop it for the first time. Also, any knife for defensive purposes that doesnt allow you to stab someone!!! is utterly retarded mall ninja shit at the end of the day.

Maple Leaf actually, west coast. I suspect it's because of the hand guard more than the blade, you can get away with a lot in regards to fixed blades up here normally as long as you can give an explanation for what you need to use it for that doesn't involve it as a weapon. Large hand guards mark a knife as pretty clearly designed with combat in mind.

Nice, I've got the halloween edition of this knife, sharp like a little exacto blade

Any fun knives for food prep use?

You could try an ulu I guess

Help me decide my next Spyderco bros I can’t decide between another Manix in S110V or a PM2, other suggestions welcome around ~$200

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Got me a cold steel voyager xl. Its been my edc for only about a week now but can anybody answer for me why its advertised as 5.5 inches and then when i measured from where the blade comes out of the handle its only 5.25? Surely there isnt a 1/4” of slop in their production specs, right?

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Get the non shit version of the manix(manix 2) instead.
>better blade profile
>beefy tip that wont break
>vastly superior and comfy G10 scales

Is anyone else in here a fan of the mule team series?

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If you don’t have a PM2 the s110v is the way to go. I have both in S110v. The PM2 is a big knife but the Manix is even bigger.

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It is a Manix 2 Lightweight I don't mind the size since it's stupid light like 2.8oz. light. But I've done more research and BD-1 is kind of a meh steel, I'd like something more robust.

Anyone used the Lightning OTF? My autism is kicking in, they're not too expensive, and I think they're legal to carry in Texas now. Glorified letter opener or decent pocket knife?

My (presumably low carbon, seeing as how it glints every way you hold it) knife is way too shiny. How do I make the knife not so shiny? I'd either like to make it black or give it a rusted/dull kind of aesthetic. Which would keep the structural integrity of the blade better? It doesn't have to be either one of these, but any tips to make it less shiny would be great.

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Black paint if you're into it. Start going up in sandpaper grit if you don't want to paint it, it'll keep the color but get less shiny. You could also look into bluing or parkerizing it if neither of those sound good, and you want a more difficult solution. Ferric chloride might etch it well if it's the right kind of steel.

I am now that i've seen one... always wanted a EDC worthy fixed blade, might have to pick one up.

Thanks for the advice. I was watching some videos earlier of multiple people giving their blades a patina using mustard or vinegar and some deep, primal part of me wouldn't stop screaming. I don't know much about patinas, but you should never put mustard on a blade unless you're going to eat it.
>Start going up in sandpaper grit if you don't want to paint it, it'll keep the color but get less shiny
But would it damage the integrity or lifespan of the blade at all? Because that's the last thing I want to do.

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What kinda naifu are you looking for? What’s currently peaking your knife autism’s?

soak it in vinegar.

Put a patina on it. It's super easy and you could always remove it if you don't like it. While a lot of people like forcing the patina via stuff like mustard/ketchup, I prefer to let the patina develop naturally.

Just chop up a bunch of acidic food (in the mood for some salsa?) and you'll have a patina in no time.

>Fairbairn infographic
I like Fairbairn but half of that infographic is bunk, but people who don't know better keep reposting it.

I really really want an OTF or even a fucking gravity knife but my state's laws say no so I'm stuck looking at exotic/rare/weird steels. Weird steels peak my knife autism.

>I like Fairbairn but half of that infographic is bunk, but people who don't know better keep reposting it.
Seconded. Cool looking knives but they weren't really that great at their task for the average user.

What would be a good combat knife?
I'm looking for a combat knife atm, and the Hissatsu is the only one standing out so far.
Care to recommend something, please?

And no, I am not interested in the Mexican sacatripe.

>presumably low carbon, seeing as how it glints every way you hold it
?

>What would be a good combat knife?
Good question with a lot of good answers that are largely contextual, which is why so many different combat knife designs are around and why they tend to fall into or out of favor over time.

Im no knife guru but i might be able to point you in a direction. Are you looking for:

>a knife that you'll actually use for typical tasks but want to be pretty good for serious use
>a knife that you'll only use as a combat knife or maybe for dispatching an animal, and otherwise leave alone
>a knife capable of excelling at a particular normal or combat task
This will greatly effect my answer. However, in general I'd recommend a full tanged knife of good reputation with a blade of 4"+, a hand guard to positively keep your hand from slipping on the blade, and a design that lends itself to stabbing. Personally I like bowie knives and arkansas toothpicks a lot. They were after all designed more or less for this task back in a time when it was a much more common and legitimate concern. KA-BARs are a pretty serviceable and common choice too.

>a knife that you'll only use as a combat knife or maybe for dispatching an animal, and otherwise leave alone
Let's say this for now, as I have some utility knives already.

Even within the context of knives solely meant for combat, there's still a thousand different kinds of knives meant for different niches or are specialized towards certain fighting methods.

Do you have any training?

What are you carrying this for?

Are there any relevant knife laws in your area?

In general then you're going to want a ~9" blade, though 10-12" would be better. Bigger is almost always better for this kind of thing, the wider a blade is the more damage it does per thrust, the longer it is the more choices of viable targets you have for quickly ending a fight. This(9") also happens to be the depth to the descending aorta on an anatomically "average" man, one of the deepest and most critical anatomical structures. with a blade of this size you'll simply be limited by skill and opportunity as opposed to hard limits of the blades reach. A large bowie would probably be my recommendation as they are pretty good for thrusts and cuts. IIRC there are reports of them just about taking off limbs in ye olde duels/fights. Being such an iconic piece of history also makes them seem a little more reasonable perhaps in the eyes of others.

Me too. Then I'd press it a third time for all the cucks. And then a fourth time for the rest of us.

>Bigger is almost always better for this kind of thing
Disagree.

For open combat where you have enough time and space to draw it, sure.

If a guy's already in your face jumping you, good luck trying to pull a bowie out. Smaller knives do better there as they're handier to draw in confined quarters, which you're more likely to be in should you need to pull a knife instead of a gun.

Of course, they're not mutually exclusive. Soldiers of old would carry a dagger to back up their sword for a reason. It's good to have options.

This Winkler is a six inch Endura.

Make it VG10 , black micarta and a hole and it's a Spyderco

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Shaman, Spyderhawk, Tasman

To be clear i was purely considering this from an optimal fighting knife/knife fight perspective as opposed to "what is a good knife to complement my EDC firearm" perspective. If concealment or legality is a concern then a 9" knife makes a poor choice. OTOH if you're out in the boonies hog hunting and want a last ditch weapon then it makes a lot of sense. part of the reason Bowie knives and arkansas toothpicks are so large is for dispatching wounded or dangerous game.

>If a guy's already in your face jumping you, good luck trying to pull a bowie out. Smaller knives do better there as they're handier to draw in confined quarters
Not trying to be argumentative for arguing's sake, but im genuinely having a hard time imagining a situation where i could draw a 5" blade but not a 9" one. If i was not already grappling then we're talking a fraction of a second in difference at best. If we are talking grappling then we're likely actively fighting over the knife and blade length is unlikely to matter as opposed to attaining dominant positioning or creating space to manage any kind of draw at all. OTOH a blade capable of causing massively more trauma and reaching critical structures while having the heft to nearly take a hand off at the forearm offers huge benefits over a 5" blade if you manage to get both deployed.

>Of course, they're not mutually exclusive. Soldiers of old would carry a dagger to back up their sword for a reason. It's good to have options.
True enough, though 9-12" is what most would consider dagger territory from what i've personally seen.

>where i could draw a 5" blade but not a 9" one
5" is already pushing it for a close quarters knife.

>If we are talking grappling then we're likely actively fighting over the knife and blade length is unlikely to matter as opposed to attaining dominant positioning or creating space to manage any kind of draw at all
Have you tried drawing a knife while grappling? It's hard to draw any knife, let alone a big one in cramped quarters.

>OTOH a blade capable of causing massively more trauma and reaching critical structures while having the heft to nearly take a hand off at the forearm offers huge benefits over a 5" blade if you manage to get both deployed
That is true, although I think the "reaching critical structures" point is overrated. There are plenty of historical duels and modern medical evidence of people surviving wounds from bigger blades than a bowie and still having enough life in them to kill the other person. Don't get me wrong, I'd prefer a bowie over a boxcutter, but people who tend to bring up the whole "long enough to reach vitals" talk about it like >stopping powah and are just repeating what they heard.

> though 9-12" is what most would consider dagger territory from what i've personally seen.
Depends on the dagger, since "dagger" was often used as a generic word for knife depending on the time period.

>5" is already pushing it for a close quarters knife.
>i'd prefer a bowie over a boxcutter, but people who tend to bring up the whole "long enough to reach vitals" talk about it like >stopping powah and are just repeating what they heard.
Opinion discarded.

>5" is already pushing it for a close quarters knife.

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My state laws are similar. I was into weird steels until I realised it was a Jewish trick. Now I’m more into interesting locking mechanisms and horse penis sized fixed blades. If you enjoy getting cucked by the exotic steel Jew, spyderco is the right company. Check out the spydieco Caribbean; is LC200 and has compression lock. Bumblebee G10 is give my brain a fuck though.

>horse penis sized fixed blades
Ah, i see you are a man of culture too.

Extreme close quarters

Not every guy is going to stand 20 paces away at high noon

Sharpened my grandpa's Western. And I've been loving this nice.

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>Extreme close quarters
I'll redirect you back to
>Soldiers of old
who commonly used knives that were fairly large compared to the fighting knives of today, often in the context of stabbing someone who, despite what you seem to think about knife fighting, will likely not be 20 paces away when the dagger comes out.

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Rondels had to be longer by necessity due to their role in getting through gaps in armor.

I don't think you're going to need to jam a knife through the eyeslit of a guy's full helmet or a through maille and padding.

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>Rondels had to be longer
And this worked because length isn't half the issue you're making out to be.

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>Extreme close quarters
Bigger blade has a massive advantage at any distance that isn't already grappling over said blade. Even then the difference is marginal at best considering youre both fighting over a sheathed blade. That blade being 3-4" shorter isn't going to magically grant you the space or dominant positioning necessary to draw a weapon of any kind in said situation. If said space is achieved via non magical means then the difference in draw is literally like .1s at best.
>rondels and armor and shit
Completely irrelevant. The context of this discussion is clearly post armor. European double edged daggers of mild length(no expert but significantly sub 9") were favored in america by most for a moderate period of time when it came to defensive knives, in the 1830s-40s this tendency changed drastically with the introduction of bowie and arkansas toothpick style knives due to their notably superior performance. Records of this performance still exist to this day. States literally tried to outlaw toothpicks due to their relative lethality compared to previously common designs. People who actually engaged in knife fighting on a comparably regular basis(compared to today) favored these larger blades for a reason.
So which one of those blades is a sub 5" one? apparently that's "pushing the limits". How many 3-4" fighting knives saw wide spread serious use before the 1900s?

i have a spyderco tenacious but im not great with knife sharpening. I usually use a hone stone on cheap shity knives $10 or less but this blade is alot nicer. TL/DR how do i into proper knife sharpening and maintenance?

>maintenance
Don't leave it in salt water

>sharpening
If you can't keep a single angle by hand, look at a Lansky system

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>How many 3-4" fighting knives saw wide spread serious use before the 1900s?
Plenty depending on when/where you look although it was still likely relatively few. I feel that I should point out that I'm not the guy saying 5" is pushing it, I'm the guy saying otherwise.

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>srm 710 is perfect for my needs
>except grip gets slick when hands are sweaty

fugg what do

A boot knife is about as much of a fighting knife as a .380 pocket gun is a fighting handgun. Im sure that tiny knives were technically used for fighting at some points but these were hold out or last line of defensive weapons, not first choice in their class weapons.

youtube.com/watch?v=cWU_qTp3DLM

>Asks about knives in X size range
>Says X size range doesn't count
I never even said such knives were so much as second string, just that they were in fact used.

Grip tape and/or sports tape.

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thank you

>Asks about knives in X size range
>Says X size range doesn't count
Dude, i was rather specifically and only talking about purpose built fighting/combat knives. Not boot knives, hold out knives, or paring knives somebody used this one time to fight with because it was the only available option.

Feel free to follow the comment chain up to Somebody claimed that 5" was pushing it for a purpose built fighting knife and all kinds of shit implying that sub 5" knives were the norm or optimal for a dedicated fighting knife, I responded to that, then you said that there were indeed fighting knives of the backup or holdout variety in ye olde times that were 3-4".

Seems completely fair to point out that that wasn't what i was talking about previously. In no way shape or form do i deny that small knives were used historically or that they don't have a place even to this day. What i do contend is that this was considered classically to be a preferred size for primary dedicated fighting knives compared to larger variants.

If you yanked somebody out of the 1800s and told them to pick a knife for a knife fight they sure as shit wouldn't choose a period correct boot knife over a period correct bowie or toothpick.

It's not like Moras were ever built with super high quality materials. They're essentially built to be disposable tools. They're as good as they've always been.

If you already have a Manix, might as well try out a Para 2. They're as popular as they are for a reason.

Starting out, a clamp system like the Lansky clamp or a semi guided system like the Lansky croc sticks or Spyderco Sharpmaker would do well. Plenty of YouTube videos out there for both. FWIW, I prefer the latter since it's a bit more versatile.

Anybody have, or have handled, a Fallkniven KK?

Never change, Jow Forums.

>purpose built fighting/combat knives
Which, to me, means knives meant for use on people. I doubt the dagger I posted was crafted with much else in mind. I get that you want something larger but you linked me and after that link was a question and I gave you an answer. Frankly if you were gonna end up at
>but knives that small aren't fighting knives
anyways then asking about fighting knives that small was a stupid question.

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>Which, to me, means knives meant for use on people
Look, guy, i get that a push dagger is technically a "fighting knife" but that is clearly never what i was talking about or trying to dispute. Arguing that a bowie knife is a good alternative to a push knife is about as valid as suggesting a push knife is a valid alternative to a bowie knife. I was never speaking on hold out, back up, boot, or push knives. Really having a hard time understanding your resistance at this point.

I AM NOT SAYING THAT SMALL KNIVES AREN'T EVER USED FOR FIGHTING OR DESIGNED FOR SUCH.

>anyways then asking about fighting knives that small was a stupid question.
Reread what i wrote then. I was clearly speaking on the topic of primary fighting knives, i was asking a different poster who suggested that small fighting knives were preferred and superior to larger fighting knives(all other things being equal) for the purposes of knife fighting as opposed to being used for such a task due to necessity or their improvements in other areas than knife fighting such as concealment or ease of carry. I asked him(somewhat sarcastically) to show me examples of all those 3-4" knives that people were historically opting to use over much larger alternatives not as a matter of ease of carry or lack of alternative but rather due to the fact that they were superior in combat, specifically after he brought up rondels as a "counter" example.

If you read the comment chain it's rather clear that the person i was responding to was trying to argue that larger knives offered no tangible benefits over smaller ones and that anything larger than 5" was "pushing" the definition of a fighting knife, which is pretty absurd. If you're just trying to make the point that sub 5" defensive knives were a thing then i agree and have never argued otherwise. If you're somehow trying to argue that they were better than larger purpose built alternatives for fighting then that's just silly.

That looks like a Canadian Sabatier, from 50s, pre-stainless era. Heavily used but still pretty nice. They (when sharpened properly) tend to have a much nicer cut than some of the modern high-carbon stainless knives.

>People who actually engaged in knife fighting on a comparably regular basis(compared to today) favored these larger blades for a reason.

It sure is nice to have a short sword when the rest of the billies have a deer-skinner and such)

Yes.
They're self guiding. It's easy to touch them up.
Why disposable? The polymer is durable, the steel takes a good edge. I have a mora that I've been using for like 15 years now. I've added a couple more, but the first one is still fine.

Delica. Super slim, reasonably light, legal pretty much anywhere in the US, really nice quality and performance for the price.

Goddamn those things look so fucking mean.

Mercator knife. It's super easy to carry, inexpensive and unnoticeable in the pocket.

imo the worksharp field sharpener is the best easy sharpener. It has guided ramps that act kind of like training wheels so you can learn to sharpen on a regular stone with it. The stones are also removable and it has features for sharpening hooks and arrows.

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Do want. Talk me out of it. I have the Lansky sharpening system, but I just can't get muh CRKT M16 sharp with it. Am I just a shitty sharpener or is it the knife?

It's like $24 on Amazon. It's the same as the $50 Benchmade one, just not blue and branded Benchmade. There's also a desktop version which I assume works the same but is larger so you can use kitchen knives on it more easily.

youtube.com/watch?v=iLWrdGEBMt8

Does it only have a 20 and 17 degree angle guide?

>Am I just a shitty sharpener or is it the knife?
Two things might be the cause:
1. you are sharpening at an agle that is too low. That means you are just taking material off the shoulder of the bevel, where the bevel meets the bladeface and you never touch the actual cutting edge, i.e. the apex of the eddge. Paint your bevel with with a sharpie marker to see where you are removing steel-

2. Your knife doesnt get properly sharp or seems to loose its sharpness quickly because you dont remove the burr after sharpening. Use a low grit stone to hit the apex and to create a burr, then use a fine grit to smooth out the bevel you have produced and reduce the grit. Then remove the burr by sliding the finest stone you have along the edge, lengthwise, at a sligty higher angle, repeat a few times, on both sides. Remove the very last bits of burr on a leather strop loaded with chromium oxide or buffing compond, or by gently dragging the edge through some hard wood

>and reduce the grit
*reduce the burr* I meant to write.

You can buy the upgrade kit which includes 25* slopes. If you're trying to do like a 12* bevel you should probably just learn to sharpen without a guided system which the worksharp helps with anyway.

Thank you!