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Q: my little brother is trying to convince me to help him make home made exploding targets (like tannerite). Is there any legal reason to be concerned and how easy/hard is it to explodiate yourself in this process?

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The ATF classifies tannerite the same way they classify black powder. It's completely legal to make and use, just make sure you're not using it somewhere that'll make people call 911 for a "bomb that went off nearby".

its not that dangerous unless you are a complete moron.

it is illegal to transport after mixing the 2 main compounds and also pretty stupid

What's better for general purpose, a single or double stage trigger?

Tannerite is legal so long as you follow below:
>Do not mix more than 5lbs.
>Do not store or transport mixed
>Do not detonate by means other than as an exploding target

Tannerite:
85% Ammonium Nitrate
15% Powdered Aluminum

Mix well, keep away from moisture. Must be under pressure to detonate properly. Detonates with rounds traveling minimum of 2000 FPS according to the literature.

is there any way to make it detonate with lower FPS rounds? like a .22lr?

>is there any way to make it detonate with lower FPS rounds? like a .22lr?

SHOO ATF, Jow Forums does not know about primary explosives and explosive trains

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Either's fine. I prefer two stage but it depends on what you feel more comfortable with. Have you shot both?

add powdered sulfur

>Is there any legal reason to be concerned
yes and no. Technically doing that is not illegal under any federal laws. check your state laws though to be certain. the real issue is that the primary ingredient for tannerite is ammonium nitrate, a primary ingredient for a whole category of explosives. You should be fine, but possession of AN on it's own is something LEOs would find highly suspicious of if they should find out. Simply adding diesel or RC car fuel in the right composition would make a fairly powerful bomb. ANFO/ANNM is literally what the oklahoma city bomber used for instance. That being said AN is rather safe to work with and hard to detonate, classically speaking it and ETN are considered the best starting points for babbies first energetics as the former can be hard to detonate even when you want it to go off and the latter requires confinement to do anything other than deflagrate.

If you have a clean record and don't happen to possess it at the same time as your state's capital building's blueprints while being pulled over you should be fine.

There are lower velosity versions.

Is it worth the trouble to SBR my .300 blk 8 inch build? Or are pistol braces shouldered good enough to compete with the lighter better stocks?

I thought it was ok to mix up to 50lbs?

Only if you don't think the ATF will use NFA items as a starting point for confiscation.

W-well l was g-gonna register a s-silencer too
FUUUCK

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Sulfur typically works for sensitizing energetics, but you should be EXTREMELY careful fiddling with recipes like that. Always look to see if it's been done before trying, messing with chemical compositions can produce unexpected results for those without a high level of chemistry understanding and experience. One misstep and your best case scenario is a trip to the ER, permanent damage, and answering some questions to some nice men in cheap suites.

No, I don't know if I've shot a 2 stage trigger.
I mostly have handguns and some old bolt milsurps, and an SKS. I think the rifles are all single stage triggers, but I'm not sure what handguns are considered.

Do you think when the EU eventually dies and pops apart into individual states, Germany'll bring back the Mark?

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Check your state laws. It's a felony in California, for example.

I'm no gunsmith, engineer or hasguns but I have a question about gun design/ballistics.

Large calibers/hotter loads means you need a thicker barrel to withstand the pressure, this is obvious. But...I don't understand .22lr. Sure, it's designed for use in "long rifles", but everytime I see a .22lr rifle I can't help but think there's an excess of material for such a tiny and light round.

The bullet typically weighs 2.6 grams or 40gr, surely you don't really need such long barrels (like 18 inches) for velocity? Or is modern smokeless powder really that efficient and powerful? It honestly looks like a round made for toy cap revolvers or similar, not something I'd associate with "long rifles with full stocks and scopes". To think this round is even capable of going supersonic is astonishing desu

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I have an acquaintance who has some gunsmithing/metal working experience who said he's going to tinker around and see about making a pistol caliber bolt action rifle

the answer to "why?" was "why not?"

So now I am curious, as a general survey would anyone here be interested in such a thing if a company began commercially producing and selling them? What features would you expect from it? What would you even use the bloody thing for?

Would it be worth it going through all the training and bs to become a USAF Combat Controller just to operate a little with SEALS and Rangers and shit, or should I just go SecFo for 4-8 years, claim any and all benefits, go to college and do something else.

.22lr was made for shooting galleries at carnivals, the excess of materials is to give it good weight and handling.

part of it is federal laws requiring rifles have a minimum barrel length of 16", and a minimum overall length of 26". the other part is tradition.

The .22 short was made for shooting galleries, the .22lr is two steps evolved from it, designed for varmints and competition.

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Can I sell (as in sell and mail) 1 lb of powder to someone without any legal hassles? Bought the wrong kind while getting started reloading, can't return it. Figured I'd ask before going to the BST thread.

Federal minimum long gun length is 16 inches. Any shorter and it's a SBR, which you need a tax stamp for.
Doesn't apply to pistols obviously.
Generally .22lr benefits from barrel length up until 16 inches, after that it actually loses a bit of velocity per inch due to friction from rifling. This doesn't apply to specialty ammo made for rifle length barrels (for example CCI Velocitors).
Longer barrels mean more distance between sights, which means more accurate sights. This is important for competition guns, since some competitions require you to use irons.

Thicker barrels means stiffer barrels, which means better accuracy.
Thicker barrels also means it takes longer for the barrel to heat up, also better for accuracy.
Thicker barrels means heavier barrels, which means less muzzle rise, which is important for follow-up shots.
Varmint shooters and competition shooters want all of these properties. The last one is particularly important for handgun competitions. Shooters will actually put weights on their barrels to reduce muzzle rise even more.

Does anyone have that image with the tiers of 1911 ranking them from God tier to shit tier

Then you have shot two-stage triggers. SKS is a two-stage trigger unless some bubba has dramatically "improved" it. I bet at least some of your bolt guns have two-stage triggers as well.

One other thing I forgot to mention.
It actually costs more to manufacture a thin barrel than a thick one. All barrels start off as blanks, thick bars of steel. It takes manhours and machine time to turn them down to a thinner profile. Since .22lr guns are usually dirt cheap, less machining just cuts costs a little more.

Related, it's why HBAR ar15 barrels are cheaper. They're basically barrel blanks with minimum machining.

Would a normal gun work in space or would you need something like a delayed rolling blowback? Also what other problems would you need to worry about when it comes to a gun in space? I always thought cooling would be a big problem in soace

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a normal gun will work in space yes, but you are correct that cooling is a big issue. With no media to radiate heat to, all of the heat is trapped inside the material of the gun and it will cease functioning very quickly if fired repeatedly

>Korth
Modified Internals
>Les Baer
Amazing
>Wilson Combat
Amazing
>Dan Wesson
Best value of the high end companies
>Kimber
Overpriced. Dice roll on QA
>Colt
Standard
>Sig Sauer
Modified Internals
>Smith and Wesson
Modified Internals
>Springfield Armory
Mediocre
>Rock Island
Dirt cheap, but good value
>Remington
Shit

Just my 2 cents

Has anyone made an mlok version of the KAC M5 rail? What mlok rail can I use while retaining the front sight post?

Ok thanks for the answer. For some reason I always thought a normal gas blow lack rifle wouldn't work because the gas would escape before it could generate enough force to cycle another round. Anyways, what would be some good ideas for coolant?.

>All barrels start off as blanks, thick bars of steel.
Interesting, so it's just stock? OF course, of a very specific treated alloy but still. Somehow I never thought of it that way

>Remington
>shit
I heard their 1911s were decent because they're basically Para.
Where do you rank Ruger, Magnum Research, and Flip 1911s outside of Rock Island like Metro Arms?

A normal gas operated rifle would probably cycle even more violently since gasses would expand even faster than when in atmosphere.
Keep in mind brass casings absorb some of the heat generated already and gets ejected with each shot. A barrel shroud full of water or liquid nitrogen would probably be helpful, also heatsink fins.

hmmmmm

Maybe if you had the gun submerged in an enclosed coolant tank and arranged in such a way that only the very tip of the barrel were exposed in order to fire. you would have to find a way to circulate the coolant to maintain temperature and allow prolonged fire.

Those are the only companies I have experiences with.
I would probably put Ruger on par with Colt.
I would also say that S&W QA has been all over the fucking place the last couple of years.

Kinda dumb question, but wouldn't a heat sink fin be useless without air or some liquid cooling down the other side?

youtube.com/watch?v=8pzL5h2cl80
Ruger uses cold hammer forged barrels, which is different from traditional button/cut rifling, but both methods starts with thick as fuck bar stock.

It's pretty fucking cold in space. Fins might be all you need.

Materials can still lose heat via radiation in space, so increased surface area would still be helpful, but having a medium for convection would of course be much more efficient.

Wouldn't the heat just stay on the fins without a medium to transfer through?

Ah okay, sorry the only experience I have with heat sink fins are on a bit coin miner I built lol

heatsinkcalculator.com/blog/the-importance-of-radiation-in-heat-sink-design/

What's better, the area surrounding Seattle WA or Austin TX?

Very interesting, thanks friend

better for what?

unless you're asking which is better for rain and hipsters, the answer is probably texas

What does this Palmetto State Armory PreSell stciker mean?

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Jobs, climate, food, shootan, community, etc.
General living-in.

It's when they don't have the item in stock, but they still accept orders for it because they know for sure they're getting inventory coming in.
When the inventory finally arrives, instead of going to storage, it immediately gets sent out to the customer.
It's like pre-ordering except the seller didn't tell you he didn't actually have the item in stock.

>bought a brand new S&W Chief's Special
>practicing decocking it
>cock hammer back, tap trigger to release the hammer, let it down slow
>sometimes, the hammer gets stuck partway after I tap the trigger
>the hammer even stays stuck, 1/4 down, like this when I take my hands off
>hammer cannot be moved, it's locked up, I have to pull trigger again to make hammer fall
>or I can cock the hammer back again from here (does not advance the cylinder)
Am I just decocking it wrong sometimes, or is this a fault with the gun, or something else?

Definitely around Austin. Austin is surrounded by anti-liberal counties.

half-cock notch

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This rifle I'm looking at says it's rated for .223/5.56, but not either or. Does this mean it can fire both just fine? I was under the impression that a rifle rated for 5.56 could fire .223 but not vise-versa.

>a rifle rated for 5.56 could fire .223 but not vise-versa
This is correct, the exception being .223 Wylde.

I want to buy a mauser K98k rifle for sport, how much should i pay to get the most out of it?

It means it can fire both. Its a 5.56 chamber meaning it can also fire .223, and the manufacturer is being explicit in that it can fire both.

Germany will probably cling to Euro until the bitter end.

Is it true that 5.56 does not gain an velocity after 20"?

No.

The lube would probably boil off too due to lack of pressure.

Does it have to be a K98k? You can get an M48 that is nearly identical for half the price.

If you have a C&R are you able to bypass state background checks too? I buy from oregonians sometimes and they're supposed to go through the Oregon State Police to do their background checks.

Saw this listing on Cheaperthandirt for 5.56 ammo that already comes boxed up and in an ammo can that's already marked with the relevant specifications.

Seems like this would be best way to stockpile ammo, without having to deal with buying ammo cans seperately, checking the seals, stenciling them yourself, dealing with ill-fitting factory boxes, etc. Unfortunately I've only been able to see this kind of ammo packaging for 5.56 only. Is there anywhere I can buy other calibers that are packaged like this, say, 9mm, .22, or .308?

I've heard that M48's aren't exactly built with the mauser 98 action, that they're just a copy, but then again I've never owned either. What's the significant difference?

It depends on the exact load, but average 55 grain sees max velocity at 20 inches. Some of the 70+ grain projectiles with slower powders see max velocity at 22 or 23 inches.

I wouldn't phrase it like that but yes they can always ship straight to you, or any other FFL for that matter, with no problems assuming an FFL of that type could legally receive it and is not in California.

The receiver is about a millimeter or two shorter and there's no bolt disassembly thingie in the stock. I think that's pretty much it.

The M48s are also all post-war production and most of them were sent straight to a warehouse and never used. So they are generally in excellent shape.

I was thinking more along the lines of if I met them at a gun show or just at a meetup for an Armslist exchange.

The barrel has to be strong enough to withstand the pressure but it also has to be strong enough to not get wrecked by the slightest force. You'd be able to permanently bend the end of a minimum-diameter full-length .22LR barrel with your bare hands.

>gasses would expand even faster than when in atmosphere
No. The 60000 psi exhaust of a high-powered rifle cartridge isn't affected in any meaningful way by the 15 psi of sea level air.

It's the half-cock notch you're supposed to hold the trigger the whole time the hammer is falling you dumb nigger it's literally a safety feature to keep a jolt or an interrupted cocking attempt from firing the gun, apparently it also serves as a child lock.

1. Get pack of tire valve stems from auto store
2. Install through lids of plastic bottles
3. Put a little flour or powdered paint in bottles
4. Pump with bike pump to 20 psi or so

Kabooms with anything, even a pellet gun. Tie a string to the valve stem so you don't lose it.

I've scoured around and so far it seems that grenade launchers are legal in Illinois. Does anyone know of laws that day contrary?

Grenade launchers are legal but possession of artillery projectiles, shells, and grenades with more than 1/4 oz of explosive is prohibited.

But flares, smokes and the lot are fair game?

Firearms are overengineered on purpose. Nobody wants to be the manufacturer that gets a reputation for exploding in peoples hands.

Except jiminez. They can be used for maybe 10 mags before catastrophic failure.

I'm very likely going to buy a Benelli B76 pistol in about a month.
It comes with two magazines but I'd like some more, around 5 total.

I can't find any B76 magazines for sale, but I found a place that sells B82 magazines.
The B82 was the same gun but in 9x18 Ultra.

The diameter of the round is the same and from what I can tell from the pictures the dimensions of the magazines seem close to identical.

Any of you guys know whether I can use a B82 mag in a B76 or not?

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Is a 1:9 twist 16" barrel good for killing 2 legged animals? Also what would be the best rounds for doing that?

Would it be possible to reintroduce the term 'well regulated' into our vocabulary in the proper context by using it in comment sections on the internet? Well regulated meaning highly tuned or highly effective like a well regulated clock, a well regulated engine, a well regulated mind etc... The meaning has somehow changed to government restricted and it's frustrating dealing with people who don't know what it really means.

Were do I find the mag in the AK?

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You make it

oh ok

What's the best California legal gun for hunting? Also, how do I get into hunting? My family's from the city, so none of them know anything

No it isn't. Space is mostly a vacuum, which doesn't have a temperature.

Hey Jow Forums what do you think of my design for a mace
Components
-A length of the largest in terms if width I can find ( that has the option of having a 5/6 way cross), with preferably two male ends
-A matching size end cap
-If I cannon find a pipe with two male sections I would have to take the male section of another pipe and weld it to the end of the pipe I'm working on
CONSTRUCTION
-Take pipe with two male sections, length is up to personal preference
-Screw endcap on to one end
-screw 5/6 way cross section to the other end
-weld shut all but one of the holes with small circular metal plates (preferably the vertical one)
-Weld endcap and cross section connectors permanently on
-pour a filling for weight through the vertical hole in the cross section, can be anything but cement in my opinion would be the best
-weld shut the vertical hole in the cross section with another small circular metal plate

Sounds utterly pointless. Probably would be nowhere near as cheap as a traditional bolt action or a PCC.

Don't comply with these stupid laws.
Just because some dude 100 miles away says you can't do something dosent mean you shouldn't do it
>Illegal short double shotty owner

>Is there any legal reason to be concerned
We will see user, we will see.

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tannerite is legal
and stable
you have nothing to worry about unless you're a dumbass

Just mail it, don't have any thing that marks it as powder.
Make sure the money comes 24 hours before or after you mail it. The money is just a friend donating to a friend, not for the powder

Man that bait is so old...

Q: Anyone know what steel core/armor piercing projectiles were used for in WW2 in regular rifles?

It can't be for defeating armor, since it's just regular 7.92 mauser, but it also can't be for hitting soft soviets, since regular ball could do the same.

Gotcha, thanks. That's what I was hoping it meant. I was a bit worried, because the upper receiver had quite a bit of gun powder residue.

More than you would expect would come from test firing anyway. The bolt face had wear too. I didn't remember noticing anything like that on other kits from them. That sticker just got me paranoid I guess.

Why all the welding? you have pipe threads right there, just screw in plugs.

The handle/head joint is the only one with any possible risk of unscrewing in use (though if you torque it in good and tight, it won't be an issue), so maybe 2-3 tack welds to secure that, and you're done.

Which is a better value?

1873 Win clone by Miroku (Winchester) or Uberti?

I hear uberti is slightly more historically accurate but has hard to move screws which mar easier but this is offset by much more available parts and 300 dollars cheaper. Wood is red dyed walnut which is accurate but coated in a laquer I believe.

Winchesters for 24 inch case hardened model I want are around 1350 to ubertis 950-1000 but have nicer worksmanship. However the gun has weird safety shit added and a new firing pin which isnt cross compatible with other 1873 rifles. A bunch of other parts are also different.

It does however come pre drilled and tapped and supposedly have slightly smoother action.

Gonna try to track both down before making a decision and fondle them a bit.

Has Jow Forums handled or shot these firearms.
45lc is what I want btw.

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So I just finished my very first ar build. PSA freedom rifle. Im taking it to the range today to zero my sights and im wondering if its going to be ok using 223 steel case. I saw on some ar forums that the rifle had no issue cycling but to take a ram rod just in case. Since the rifle is so cheap i have my doubts. Am i good?

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My PSA eats steel core just fine.

It's not just PSA's with that problem. Steel is shit and can seize in any company's chamber. A ram/ cleaning rod is a good piece of kit for any range bag though.

From what I remember reading, the problem happens with coated/ lacquered ammo. You shoot a bit, things heat up, the coating gunks up the chamber, next thing you know, you have a royal jam on your hands.

Also, aside from residue/ fouling, expect to have to replace your extractor sooner.