Maybe with red or blue axle grease? Would arctic silver be alright? It's thermal grease nerds put between CPU surface and heatsinks to transfer heat. Supposedly it has some hyperconductive ceramics in it, and I can imagine maybe that might tear shit up but probably not. Also, do you grease any other guns? 1892 lever maybe?
/grease/ thread.
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>not using thermal grizzly
Calcium Sulfonate grease used to be hard to find
Now, Buy one tube at Home Depot for $9
Set for life
>owning microprocessors
I GREASE FUCKING EVERYTHING WITH TEFLON GREASE. HIGH TEMPERATURE TEFLON IMPREGNATED BY THE LUBE GODS GREASE THAT I PAY 15 TIMES WHAT I SHOULD FOR.
>posting on Jow Forums from a PDP-1
I do grease slides and cams with just quality moly grease from hardware store. I got a couple of rubber free syringes from work and filled with grease = easy dispenser.
Do not use thermal paste you idiot, there aren't lubricants in there.
but bro it has silver. makes your gun +1 against supernatural beasts.
Its ground up silver. If you want to kill some supernatural creatures go for it.
Otherwise its acting as an abrasive at worst.
wat?
That stuff is like $20 for a thimble full.
Why not just make a trip to Wal Mart or autozone and get a lifetime supply of grease for $4?
Don't use thermal paste, its not a lubricant and like you said the shit is probably abrasive.
I grease my slide rails when I have the gun apart, but if I'm being lazy I just lock the slide back and spray the rails with teflon chain lube.
And you can grease any gun you want, just keep in mind that it attracts dust if it's exposed. I like SuperLube grease because it's clear and doesn't smell.
Does $4 autozone grease have Teflon in it? Does it? I don't use grease that doesn't have Teflon in it.
You should be avoiding grease with Teflon.
Disregard Teflon, look for moly.
Just use white lithium grease like every army manual says to.
Boutique pricing. Here's a spoiler for you: guns aren't very lubrication critical. You can use a wide variety of lubricants on your gun and it will still work fairly well, and conversely, any meme company can sell you any sort of shit at a 20x markup and it won't fuck up your guy so you'll think it's ok.
>not using high temp copper anti seize
What.. no. I don't know what kind of space magic you're selling but Teflon has never let me down.
While we're on the subject though, I did get some hoppe's black grease. That shit sucked ass. It's like ground up polymer or something? I don't know, it's not as good as high quality Teflon grease.
Let me google it...
hoppes.com
>Hated it
NOT TRUE!!!!
That may be true for unfinished steel on steel but it is not true for aluminum frame on steel slide, period. It's also something that becomes extremely evident on SIG's shit tastic PVD coating. I was getting a ton of premature wear on the rail finish using high quality oils, switched to grease and the wear ceased immediately.
>not using pankl plb20 with extra arsenic
For real though, anti seize has too much solids in it. It will make a huge mess and gum things up.
Anything with petroleum will eat plastics and rubber. It's why they have special lube for paintball guns because the oil will eat the O-rings.
It depends on the type of rubber. viton and buna-n are very petroleum resistant. Though were getting off topic here.
I use a combination of grease and oil on my guns. For stored guns, I've adopted the Swiss practice of greasing their bores and exterior surfaces, which works great.
That's powdered silver, at best it will be a poor lubricant, at worst it will be an abrasive paste.
Is pvd a coating over aluminum?
Usually aluminum and steel can get along well. Your car has aluminum bearings and a steel crank shaft for example.
>I did get some (((gun grease))).
You've already outed yourself as a rube. Just get a tub of grease with buzzwords like "extreme pressure" and "moly".
Also for cleaning I use "fuel system cleaner". It usually costs about $2/bottle and does a better job at cleaning carbon and junk from guns than CLP.
I may not be a mechanic but I highly doubt anything has aluminum bearings.
Anyway, SIG uses a pvd coating similar to powder coat but it's magnetic or something and they put if over their "hard anodized" frames. So the normal wear on them, Legion for example, is grey gives way to the orange anodized color which eventually gives way to the silver aluminum color as they wear down. A SIG with all the PVD is there, a sig with the orange rails is fine and they're that way most of their lifespan from what I understand but once the aluminum is showing along the length of the rail, the wear is considered "high mileage". So they used to say to use grease but then just said to use high end oil or grease. I was using oil and the wear was happening pretty quick. There hasn't been any noticeable wear since I switched to the teflon impregnated grease.
quit posting pics of that anti-gun celeb.
Well can't argue with that. I would bet that the oil was just migrating away from where it needed to be, whereas a grease doesn't.
Just about every car after the mid 80s has aluminum/silicon alloy bearings, though they are fed with 50+psi of engine oil so it's not exactly applicable to guns. Also as far as I know, "hard" anodizing (aka type 3) can only be done in black or brown, though I may be wrong on that.
Should I be using grease or gun oil for my stainless 1911 rails????
If there's any place on a gun where you should use grease instead of oil it's on the slide. It will protect against wear a lot better than oil.
I also put a tiny dab on the sears. I use oil just about everywhere else though.
I recommend grease with molybdenum in it.
WHAT IN THE SHIT IS TEAM PEEP AND WHY
FUCK WHY AM I TEAM CREME
Easter nonsense?
lemme reload my page
CREME OF THE CROP
because you like when tyrone creams in you, faggot
Thermal paste isn't made to lubricate, it's designed to transfer heat, it would likely just gum up your slide, but the action would still work.
Just go buy some hoppes grease, it's less expensive than any thermal paste.
I grease all high wear parts in all of my sidearms.