Anybody into archery here? I'm gonna buy a longbow soon and was wondering what draw weight I should get for my first bow. I lift weights so I think I'm kinda strong. My draw length is about 26.5. Would I be okay with a #45 bow (which would be #41.25) or should I go with a #40 bow ?(which would be #36.25)
Anybody into archery here...
Dominic Sanders
Other urls found in this thread:
bickerstaffebows.co.uk
twitter.com
Leo Jackson
>First bow
Honestly? Get something like a 25# bow so you can learn proper technique and then get a stronger bow for hunting. Most places require at least 40# for hunting, but you shouldn't even consider hunting until you've got it down. You don't train until you can hit a target, you train until you can't miss.
Something like a Samick Sage is great for a beginner because you can just get an extra set of limbs as you get better and build the muscle groups necessary for archery. Don't over-bow.
Jeremiah Lee
Also, do you know which is your dominant eye? Because that's more important than hand dominance.
Zachary Fisher
Just do a #35. You don't work out your back enough. That way, you don't get the shakeys while you draw and can focus on getting the proper form down first.
Ryder Stewart
I honestly don't want to deal with the hassle of getting all these bows and match arrows. Im starting college soon so I'm kinda on a budget, I want one good bow that will last me four years and then I'll upgrade to something nicer. I figured I'd be fine with a #40 bow. Was originally gonna get a #55 but figured that was way too much to start out with. But I'm right handed but left eye dominant and was gonna buy a left hand bow...
bickerstaffebows.co.uk
They seem to have quality longbows I was gonna opt for the "standard bow" which would cost me $600
Justin Perez
Well I do dead lifts, bent over rows and wide grip pull ups (strength training) once every week. Is that not enough?
Michael Long
>But I'm right handed but left eye dominant and was gonna buy a left hand bow...
See, all the more reason to get something lighter in poundage for your first bow. Even if you think you can handle a 40# bow, you'll be able to spend a lot more time at the range with a lighter bow plinking all day.
Aaron Harris
Alright I'll consider this. Should I just like a #35 samick sage and then after a while buy a #45? And by after awhile I mean 2-3 months of training
Christian Wright
That's definitely more prudent. And the nice thing about the Sage is that you can just buy the 45# limbs and swap them as you want.
Brandon Brown
I'm trying to keep cost down as much as possible. So I'll buy one samick sage and match arrows and then buy the bow I'll use through college. If I start out with a #35 would it be unreasonably to just make the jump to #50? After a few months of practice of course?
Gabriel Bennett
It really comes down to how strong the required muscle groups are to begin with, how much practice you put in and all that. Don't rush yourself.
Angel Bell
Just buy an AR faget
Asher Morris
Great post, thanks.
Carson Perry
Keep in mind that bow poundage for recurves and longbows is listed for 28 inch of draw length. For every inch you go over, it's ~2lbs, but stacking can be pretty severe on cheap bows.
So if you're a lanklet with a 31 inch draw that 30# bow you bought will actually be 36# or more.
Kayden White
I did a 75 lb recurve to work out my arm and target shoot.
It would be smarter to go with a lighter weight to practice technique. I just said to myself " i won't pull it that hard"
Live and learn I guess..
Adam Foster
Used to work in archery department of unamed big box store
Hunting or target?
Longbows/recurve are cool for target shooting and much easier to dive into and get started with. Much more instinctive pick up and shoot ability and then train to get good.
If your planning on hunting compound is the way to go. People hunt with long but it takes more practice amd skill, while loosing benefits like adjustable poundage (kek) and let off. They are mich easier to get good with and more accurate and range. The barrier to entry is quite a bit higher with having to get a release.
Id reccomend compound; when i first started i wanted a traditional bow amd was planning on getting one, but tried out a compound and after a bit of practice was able to group 6 arrows into a tennis ball at 20yards.
Just my 2 cents, do what you want, unless your liberal, in which case fuck you.
Dominic Bell
Question for you
I'm trying to get into traditional recurve bows, how the fuck do these rests work?
I've only ever used a blade rest, which was pretty cool, but my arrow kept falling off if I wasn't paying attention and a simple plastic tab rest.
Josiah Jackson
Alright thanks for the help bud, appreciate it. I'm just gonna buy a #35 used sage and a set of #40 limbs for it and after I'm ready Ill buy a real nice #50 longbow
How do you know I don't have one already?
Juan Lewis
I'm a novice and I have been into archery for awhile. I've got a 150lb crossbow and a 30-45lb training bow and a mini crossbow. We even had a bail of hay behind our house that I use to practice with the training bow all the time, I've really gotta get a new bow and get back into it myself, I've got some money so maybe I could pick some stuff up at walmart for training. Saw that guy lars anderson, really impressed me but he does it with such a teeny tiny draw weight bow, even less than 45lbs probably so even if you had nice broadheads on the end of your arrows you wouldn't be accomplishing much in terms of bodily harm.
I've done plenty of research and I know how bow's work and the ins and outs of the whole hobby. Now, to answer your question. If you're telling the truth about lifting weights I'd start with the slightly heavier bow, you probably already know that you'll get a RSI if you start too heavy too soon, so it's good that you're starting with something that's more low impact that you can build off of into something heavier so I think you'd be okay with the #45 lb bow if you really do lift enough weights for it to make a difference in your muscular development.
Caleb Bell
Yep, ring the dinner bell every time you kill something.
Ethan Howard
Buy a Samick Sage. Good bows for a low price. can also buy interchangeable limbs for when you wanna up the poundage.
Gabriel Hill
How do I check eye dominance ?
I'm not OP but I think a 30 pound samick sage is what I want, don't know where to get arrows though
Nathan Stewart
Any healthy adult male can draw a 35-45# bow just fine without any experience in archery or strength exercise. It starts to matter from ~60# up.
Gabriel Collins
technique>draw weight
Colton Powell
I was a scrawny little basement dweller when I started. First bow was a 45# recurve bow (Samick Sage). I did not have any trouble drawing it or firing it with correct form. I would be fatigued after maybe an hour of casual shooting, but that was usually when I was going to stop anyway. I have since moved up to a 60# bow and it seems fine. I consider myself to have average male strength.
I don't know why everyone recommends lower bow weights. 35# is what my wife shoots and she weighs 125lbs.
Start with a 45# bow IMO.
Adrian Hall
We have no idea what your definition of scrawny is
Jordan Evans
Make a small circle with your hand, look at something through the circle. Close an eye, if you can still see it through the circle that's your dominant eye.
You can't have both eyes dominant you snowflake so don't fool yourself.
Ryder Gomez
Longbows are not good starters.
Get the sammick sage like everyone has suggested.
Takedown recurves have so many advantages for a beginner.
Lighter
Interchangeable limbs
Better shelf for resting the arrow
Shorter so you can shoot in tighter spots
Faster arrow speed
More forgiving to the shooter
More durable and easier to maintain
Cheaper
You came here for advice, take it.
Andrew Davis
arrow head > draw weight