QTDDTOT

Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread
Previous Thread I asked at the end of last thread about either going 6.5G AR upper or a 6.5G Bolt gun. I'd like to get into long(er) range shooting than what my 5.56 ARs can give me.

Replying to Ideally, I'd like to shoot maybe ~+1000yds around 1-2MOA, but I'm fully aware it'd take a while and practice to get there. Ultimately, my goal is to reach +1500yds with the same accuracy. Starting would be targets only, but if I could pivot into Deer/Elk that would be cool, too. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

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dammit, *6.5 Creedmor bolt, not Grendel.

>Ideally, I'd like to shoot maybe ~+1000yds around 1-2MOA, but I'm fully aware it'd take a while and practice to get there. Ultimately, my goal is to reach +1500yds with the same accuracy
That is not realistic unless you plan to invest in specialized equipment: custom target rifles with heavy barrels and stocks and expensive optics.

What said.

Hunting rifles and long range target rifles are two very different things.

That RAP is a hunting rifle.

You could start out with it, maybe to 600yds+, but you'd be taking 1 shot every hour or so, or end up heating up that "heavy taper" barrel (which isn't, by target shooting standards) and never getting more than 3 shots near the same POI.

Should I sell a couple guns that I shoot rarely to purchase a gun that I would be able to shoot all the time?

>selling guns
It's up to you, what you got fandamily?

I don't have a 1911 or a shotgun.
Which should I get first, assuming I can only get one at a time?

Depends on what tickles your pickle the most. You can get used mossman/remmy(sans rust) for ~$200 at most pawnshops now that it's summertime.
As for 1911s I'm not sure of the what's shit and what's not anymore on the entry level ones, but ~$500 is a rough starting price on them.

>Ultimately, my goal is to reach +1500yds with the same accuracy
Is this a realistic range for the 6.5 Creedmoor with any sort of setup? What's your rationale for choosing the 6.5 Creedmoor for this distance? I hope I don't sound accusatory, I'm just trying to understand your decisions and maybe learn something new in the process.

Do i buy this?

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Yes

Where are you supposed to put the trigger, on your finger? A certain spot, regardless of how long your fingers are? Or just stick your finger as far as it will go and use that spot?(for me it is C)

Please no bully. New to guns and I want to learn the correct way to shoot.

Also, I know I worded my question poorly, but english is not my primary language.

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A

When installing an AR15 muzzle device with a crush washer how much can you crush the washer before you've fucked it?

My A2 birdcage is ~10-15 degrees off (too far, so I can't just use no washer) with no washer and ~180 degrees off if hand tightened with the washer on. Should I just get a peel washer or some shims or can I get 180 degrees of crush out of the crush washer?

In practical application, what exactly is the downside to buying an entry level AR-15 like an M&P 15 Sport II or a Ruger AR556? What makes them entry level vs other models, and would they be a viable option as a weapon to keep for many years?

what's wrong with taurus?

Bergara HMR or KRG Bravo 1500?

Stuff to look for:
>proper staking on castle nut, gas key
>MPI/HP tested bolt
>full auto profile carrier (more mass = better)

Otherwise as long as you're okay with the barrel / gas system (usually they use a 16" barrel with a carbine gas system, which while functional isn't as good as a midlength, can be fixed with a heavier buffer) then they're mostly cheaping out on furniture.

As a first ar I think theyre a great idea. It gives you time to think about how you want your next one to be and changes you need instead of want. I fucked up and had a custom ar built for me as my first and a year later I want to go a completely different route with it.

For my first AR should I get a 1/8 or 1/7 twist 16" barrel?
Mostly going to shoot 55gr out of it, within 100yd, but I'd like to push out further as I get better.

How much sould a average person worry about armored opponents in a home defese scenario ?

They work, they aren’t mind blowing. Everything works, but in almost every component there are better or more well suited for niche application parts. A decent first option if you aren’t willing to build your own.

The important thing is a coated barrel. The M&P uses Not-Melonite treatement so you’re good.

The good thing about ARs is they are easily customizable, so you can swap things out on an entry level rifle down the line to keep it competitive.

If you buy an M&P Sport-2, drop a ~$120 trigger into it, remove the godawful A2 pistol grip, and use good mags you’ve got a rifle that’s decently competitive with stuff 3x the price.

Guys I'm looking for a hiking firearm to use in the dense vegetation of the PNW.

Requirements
>Relatively light
>Ease of maintainability
>Large aftermarket or easy to access replacement parts
>Must be chambered in a prolific caliber that makes it easy to reload, punch through brush, and down game up to the size of a moose or brown bear reliably.
>Easy to reload in a highly tense situation.
>Must be also short and possible to use in a home defense situation

SBR AR in .458 socom

Serbu Super Shorty.

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a good bush gun would be a lever action in 30-30 or 44 magnum. They're good rifles, average weight, they're easy as fuck to service because they're so simple to operate. 30-30 and 44 mag are some of the most common lever gun calibers and have heavy bullets for getting through brush, hence "brush gun"

>shortness
I see a lot of lever guns coming in 16-18'' barrels.

The only disadvantage would be loading quickly

Not much, can't remember the last time I heard of a home intruder wearing armor

Thank you for the suggestion user.

Must add it must have a magazine capacity (internally or externally) of at least 6 rounds.

don't fucking do this, 458 is ludicrously expensive compared to other firearms of similar purpose, a 16'' AR-10 would be FAR better.

>Must add it must have a magazine capacity (internally or externally) of at least 6 rounds.
Any lever gun should have 7-10

So in order for me to have "A" on the trigger I have to hold my finger like this, which feels really unnatural and uncomfortable. But I should do it anyway?

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How bout 45-70 user? I hear it all the time from co-workers being suggested.

C for me on most guns. If I do A I'm not able to get a comfortable grip most of the time. Too loose near the index finger.

Why do other boards say Jow Forums has a weird connection with /an/?

can be very expensive, the cheapest I found of these was a dollar per round which is ludicrously expensive vs the price of 30-30 (60-70cpr) and 44mag (45-60cpr)

for precision shooting, yes that is the ideal and will give you the least amount of pull in either direction. Using C would pull your gun significantly to one side or another depending on your grip

Are .50 Beowulf uppers any good? I heard the caliber is like a 45-70 for ar's but I've also heard it's like 2$ a round.

that shit is still over a dollar a round, the cheapest I'm googling is 1.30 per round on sgammo.com

I want a 308, mostly just to reload for it. What should I get? Aesthetics are top priority.

I mean what are you gonna use it for?

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Allowing me to daydream about picking off opponents at longer range than my ayyy arr? Pretending to be a precision shooter? Looking good on the wall?

>Aesthetics are top priority.

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>buying ugly guns
Fucking disgusting mate

Well your AR is going to hit as far as your 308 AR10, your precision for there would depend on your skill, scope and actual rifle set up.

If all you're doing is pretending idk what to tell you then go pick up what ever you want

So I have one question. What brand?

I'm not exactly sure which brands are good lever gun brands. I know theres one brand out of brazil that makes great lever guns and they aren't very expensive but they aren't going to be as high quality as a Henry or Browning lever gun of similar features.

>brazil that makes great lever guns
>brazil that makes great anything

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they actually do in this case. Rossi has been making them for over a century. Its not like Taurus or Ruger outsourcing to brazil using shitty brazil parts or factories to save money. This is more of a quality brazillian company that originated there making and importing quality firearms

also a good Rossi levergun is the Rossi 92

Has anyone signed up for the Ready Man bug out bag builder? I can't poke around until I sign up and I want to know if it's worthwhile.

>Rossi
>Browning

I don't believe either offer the cartridges I've been recommended. Henry and marlin however does but I simply do not like the way the henry is loaded. I feel marlin however offers better ease of loading.

Marlin however only offers in say 30-30 and 45-70 in this case. Henry however offers .44 mag.

Ruger from brazil?

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rossiusa.com/product-details.cfm?id=149

Rossi does have a M92 in 44 mag

The reason I mentioned browning is because they also make very good lever guns but they're usually in even larger caliber cartridges going all the way up to 338 lapua mag

isn't the Ruger blackhawk revolver made using shitty brazilian parts or something? One of these was I couldn't quite remember

Meh tier quality with sub-saharan tier QC.

after seeing a couple of friends, one who owns an RPR and another who owns a Bergara HMR both chambered in 6.5C being able to reach 1800yds based on rangefinder readings. 5.56 doesn't even come close, but I've gotten lucky with 700 yds before.

6.5 Creed was designed specifically for long-distance shooting.

I understand, I'd be willing to invest if over the long term that long range shooting grabs me. More optimised calibers are on the menu, I just don't want to go broke to find out I'm not interested in something.

I would be okay with waiting a good amount of time between shots, but I'm at this point more interested in figuring out if 6.5G would be a more worthwhile upgrade over 5.56 than 6.5C.

>figuring out if 6.5G would be a more worthwhile upgrade over 5.56 than 6.5C

>grendel more worthwhile than creedmoor?
only if size is a consideration.
Creedmoor requires longer action, but can surpass grendel ballistically by a large margin.

And if you're serious about the stated ranges, grendel is out of the question

That's what I'm leaning towards too, however much I liked the idea of sticking with the AR platform. Thanks!

Kinda, but you need long barrel.
Why not just 7mm at this point?

is this ar-ish enough for you?

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Because we hate geese too? Honestly I've never even heard it mentioned here.

That's pretty far. Normally, the maximum range of a gun+caliber combination is the distance it goes subsonic. I think a lot of the people here are thinking you mean first shot hits, lobbing until you hit something is different

I cleaned some yugo ak mags i got with mineral spirits because they were caked with hardened grease. Worked real well but now I don't know if I should attempt to lightly oil them or something. Will they rust eventually if I dont?

Just rub some of whatever gunlube you have on them, i used clp when i redid mine but it wouldnt really matter imo as long as some kind of oil was on it.

Really as soon as it gets to transonic speeds (think roughly 1.2x speed of sound) the round starts to destabilize. Boat tails help, but that isn't going to guarantee precision, maybe just enough to hit the target.

>$5800
Whew, maybe a good option down the road.

The mossberg plinkster is made by CBC

$6 grand
Why? For that price you could get a decent .50 with a scope and a good amount of 750gr A-MAX.

Obviously you're out of the loop on "decent" 50 cals user. McMillan or nothing.

Um.
Disregard this retard.

What could I use in the place of the primer if I were going to make my own snap caps? 9mm, btw.

What is the superior philosophy of use, as few guns as possible to cover every forseen need, of a very specific gun for each and every role? The way I see it is the former would be better for manual of arms familiarity, reduced expenses, ease of transportation, parts and ammunition stockpiling, etc. while being inherently less specialized than the latter. I suppose it's all a matter of degrees, but I'd like some input so I don't end up too far up my own ass here.

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just buy whatever the fuck you want.

Human beings are superior to other animals for one reason, second order volitions. We are able to want to want something. I want to define what I want to want so I can want it. In this case, I require serious rational intervention because weapons are tools one may well need to use in light and death situations.

Because we both go innawoods and fuck deer.

>I want to define what I want to want so I can want it.
I buy guns because of their use in anime. You should probably try it.

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>Why do other boards say Jow Forums has a weird connection with /an/?
We're married. There's nothing weird about it.

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12 gauge with slugs or 00 buck in the woods. There's a reason they are one of the most popular guns in Alaska. Home defense use buckshot or 00.

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Is #'1 buckshot good for home defense ?

A tactical carbine and concealable pistol will work for 90+ percent of possible scenarios. You can toss in a shotgun, full power rifle and .22 as well and then you're pretty much done unless you need anti-materiel.

The best part is that with the AR series you can have 3 of those with effectively identical manuals of arms. AR-15, AR-10 and AR-15 .22 conversion.

#1 buck is best for home defense; 00 has more penetration, which is great for bears but wasted on humans, and retains velocity better beyond 25 yards, which can sometimes matter outdoors, but definitely not in a house.

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~60 durometer polyurethane rod

It is very tempting, to be able to do whatever with the contents of a small box. It's just so inconsistent with every other field, from electronics to landscaping. You never hear about an electrician with just a multitool or a lanscaper trying to get by with an e-tool. It's that ~10% of possible situations that vex me, but again I figure with too many tools I'll never have the one I need at that moment. A utility belt full of rifles is much more cumbersome than one of screwdrivers and pliers after all. Nevertheless, I am racked with cognitive dissonance.

I'm not sure if you're trying (and failing) to appear smarter than you are, or if you're just trolling. Either way, I'd like to kick you as hard as I can in the balls while wearing steel toe boots.

The number of situations that you are using a gun in/for is considerably more limited. You aren't doing dozens of fine manipulations. You are killing something at X range or Y range, carrying concealed or open. There's not nearly as much variety as other fields.

That's not to say that there's no situations in which a niche gun is useful, but the usefulness over a non-niche gun is usually minor to moderate, rarely major.

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Is negotiating the price on a rifle taboo these days? I'm considering bringing 75% of the listed price in cash for what could potentially be my first gun tomorrow. I'm not married to the piece, but if I can get it for relatively cheap I'll happily take it. Do you guys barter at all or is it normally assumed that the price is final? Should I try to get them to include other shit if I take the full price? I'll ask regardless but I wanted to get a ballpark as to where to start my bid from.

For reference, I'm going to a mid-sized local range and the gun is a CZ 455 Lux.

thoughts on talon grips? im thinking of getting the rubberized grip but my concern is how well it will hold up to moderate usage.

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Used stuff should always be negotiable, new stuff is usually negotiable to a certain amount. 75% is probably too far unless it's already severely marked up.

It's listed as $410 on their site, and from what I've gathered that seems to be the running price statewide and online. Would 80-85% still be too low? I should also add that it's new.

You can try it, but if you want the gun I'd plan to bring at least 90%. Actually if I wanted it I'd bring 100% and maybe just have 10% in a different pocket, they may say no depending on how much of a margin they have.

I was going to pick some up for my Glawk 43 but I really didn't trust them to hold up to solvents and oils while cleaning and heat when being CC. Ended up just getting a rubber Hogue slip on grip and it's worked out great.

Fair enough, thanks for the advice.

For $20 they’ll last long enough and then you can get new ones.

I understand that 6.5 Grendel will never be huge, but is it growing or dying?

I saw a complete upper for less than $300 but I don't want to buy something I won't be able to use in a couple years because all the ammo went dry.

Serbia recently adopted it, but .224 Valkyrie also just came out. Hard to say.

That's badass. I knew wolf started with some 100 grain rounds that people seem to like, but I didn't realize anybody really picked it up.

I may take the gamble after all.