/Black Powder/ for beginners

Sup Jow Forums?

Thinking about picking up a Pietta 1858 Remington cap and ball revolver. I've never shot black powder before, what do I need to know before I take the plunge?

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I'm thinking about getting an 1851 in 44 just because I want that open top receiver

I love the look and feel of the Colts too, I've actually handled one. I'm looking at the Remington mainly because it's closer in design to modern revolvers so I figure the learning curve will be more shallow

Also,
>off by one

Some things to know is to use bore butter or something and put it in the cylinder after you packed the balls. this will make sure no chain fires happen.
Also I usually only load 5 of the 6 cylinders so that I can drop the hammer safely. Only other thing I can think of is make sure to clean it pretty often. I can get maybe 20-30 shots before it gets all gummed up.

>remington
>load 5 of 6

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>use bore butter
>don't get a brass framed revolver
>.36 will be cheaper to shoot than .44
>clean the gun before you shoot the first time, and clean it every time you are done shooting for the day, rust attacks these guns quickly
>get a tedd cash capper, inline cappers are garbage

>clean it every time you are done shooting for the day
This cannot be overstated. Black powder leaves behind nasty corrosive residue and that pistol will get fucked up in a hurry if you don't keep it clean.

Generally, hot water will get rid of the residue, but still use your regular gun oil.

>what do I need to know before I take the plunge?

Black powder shooting is slow, messy, and a pain in the ass. However, if you approach it patiently, methodically, and with a Zen attitude, there can be many rewarding KA-POWs in your future.

>what do I need to know before I take the plunge?

colt 1851s point better

spend the extra $80 for stainless
the 1851 frame loading slot is to short to load conical bullets fyi

>spend the extra $80 for stainless
Don't know how often I'll be shooting it since I've never tried BP before, very tempted to go with a brass frame .36 because of this

You'll enjoy it. Go with the steel frames.

I'd honestly get a 1851 .36 because of how easy and cheap they are to learn on.
>what do I need to know before I take the plunge?
Do not use Pyrodex. Ever. It burns so much dirtier than legit BP and is a cunt to clean while also being so much more corrosive.

Use some sort of lube to top off your chambers. It does more than lube the bullet, it acts as a binding agent for fouling, leading to a much cleaner gun.

Always get oversized balls so they produce a ring of lead after sending them home. This creates a perfect seal and is a key prevention of chainfires.

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How much easier is black powder to clean than Pyrodex? I have a muzzle loading rifle that I very rarely shoot because I hate cleaning it, but I've only ever used Pyrodex because the closest place I can buy real black powder from is a 2 hour drive one way and I don't shoot enough to make ordering in bulk to offset the hazmat fees worth it.

>Look up ted cash capper
>"Works on most revolvers except the 1858 Remingtons"

What do?

use you fangers

>How much easier is black powder to clean than Pyrodex?
If I shot with lube a rinse in hot water gets rid of 99% of it. I'm not exaggerating, the real BP shit is skullfuckingly better in this regard.
>because the closest place I can buy real black powder from is a 2 hour drive one way and I don't shoot enough to make ordering in bulk to offset the hazmat fees worth it.
Jesus, just order a few containers from Graf's and eat a $10 HAZMAT charge.
grafs.com/retail/catalog/category/categoryId/3501

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>get a tedd cash capper, inline cappers are garbage
If your revolver has a capper inlet, like the 1851, it's fine. Otherwise it's literally worthless, like with a Walker.

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Even with a capper inlet, the inline cappers aren't good.

Then I guess you're stuck

.36 > .44

bump

>.36 will be cheaper to shoot than .44
Why, precisely? They cost almost nothing to shoot. I have a friend who uses .36 buckshot instead of actual cast bullets but his saving = .01-.03 cents. Are you that broke? Get a .44 that can be modded to chamber .45 cowboy ammo instead of .38 cowboy ammo which is shit.

duelist1954 is that you?

Only use Bore Butter if you don't live in a part of the country that sees actual winters. I'm in Vermont and quickly learned that that shit freezes solid, so I make a mix of mink tallow and beeswax that works no matter what time of the year it is.

Hate that fat fuck

I want a lemat pic related talk me out if it

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Do it. Use it for home defense and put a 20 gauge slug in a dindu for me.

"FOR BEAUREGARD AND THE CONFEDERACY"
*BLAM*

Yes.
youtube.com/watch?v=f8ZA_8l3YVg

Brass frame < Steel frame
Open top < Top strap
.36 < .44
Whichever gun you choose should really depend on what you want out of it. Either caliber will be pretty weak unless you get a Walker, but .36 seems to suck ass big time. If you just want really cheap ammo then get a really small bore pocket revolver and use slightly oversized buckshot like said. Pic related if you need that BIG IRON. If you are worried about screwing up and just want to learn then get a cheap Pietta brass frame. Choosing Colt or Remington is up to your choice in aesthetic, but Remington is supposed to have a more durable design while its much easier to check and clean the Colt's barrel. The best powder available is 777 it seems, maybe Swiss if you cant find that. You don't NEED any expensive solvents/cleaners.The best way to clean the gun is with a plugged sink, really hot water, basic cleaning tools with paper towels, and some oil after its all dry. Sorry for the wall of text, it's all the tips I could think of at the moment. Blackie Thomas on youtube has alot of great advice on percussion revolvers.

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Also you don't need wads, patches, or grease to prevent chain fires. All you need is an oversized ball to make a good seal, it should make a nice ring of lead when you force it into the cylinder. If you get a Colt copy then it will shoot very high. YOu can fix this by lowering the rear sight notch with a dremel/file until it shoots straight. If you haven't noticed im just typing out anything I can think of ( I don't have a small novel of organized information on percussion revolvers ). I will probably be back in a few minutes if I remember anything good. Heres another one; If you don't want your gun to rust then store it in an airtight box with oxygen absorbers.

DO IT
The walker is a big iron, this is the XXL iron

I have had mixed results with using cartridge converters. My Kirst cylinder's footpad made it way too high for the retaining pin to slide home; had to file and sand it down to make it work, and it still binds from time to time; it's a work in progress. And my Howell cylinder doesn't run right, there's some kind of timing issue that'll need to be tweaked. I'm still doing my research on how I'll address that.

If you want to shoot cowboy action loads, you're probably better off just buying a single action cartridge using pistol chambered for them. You'll have to fill out a 4473, but it'd be cheaper and you'll deal with less headaches.

I need a recommendation for a powder flask and measure for bp pistol shooting. Should i just go with that pedierspaghetti set of nozzles and a tube flask from cabelas?

I need to start experimenting with wads that aren't store-bought as well as different powder measures and such for best patterns. I wonder how my own lubed powder wads would perform compared to the pre-lubed ones I picked up?

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That would work, but I would recommend getting a repro powder flask and a nozzle that dispenses the exact amount of powder you want.

I need recommendations for patch lube.
From what I've heard people use beeswax or that Lyman stuff.
Supposedly Ballistol and other mienral oil products are to be avoided because they burn and make the residue harder...
I've only been shooting twice with my own gun but spit has worked fine so far

Whats the point of using patches in a percussion revolver?